Airmatic Malfunction Troubleshooting
12-21-2017, 05:12 PM
#1
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Airmatic Malfunction Troubleshooting
A few weeks ago I got the dreaded Airmatic Malfunction on my '11 E550. Its been driving normally -- I do believe it is sitting at a slightly higher than normal ride height. The raise vehicle button will not do anything when pressed. It appears to switch between comfort and sport modes normally. I cannot hear the compressor attempting to do anything. I have checked the fuses -- they are fine.
I have read that it is common to have a bad wire going to the pressure relief valve. Does anyone have any experience with this? I want to drop the cover from the compressor and look at the wiring, but I am not sure if I can get to it properly without a lift. Do I need a special OBDII scanner to read airmatic codes?
Any help is appreciated.
I have read that it is common to have a bad wire going to the pressure relief valve. Does anyone have any experience with this? I want to drop the cover from the compressor and look at the wiring, but I am not sure if I can get to it properly without a lift. Do I need a special OBDII scanner to read airmatic codes?
Any help is appreciated.
12-21-2017, 09:01 PM
#2
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
You need SD-level scanner to troubleshoot.
They are ways to troubleshoot the system without scanner, but they take time and persistence, so IMHO now is good time to invest money in good scanner.
They are ways to troubleshoot the system without scanner, but they take time and persistence, so IMHO now is good time to invest money in good scanner.
12-22-2017, 02:30 PM
#3
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Thread Starter
I'll have to google SD-level scanner.
I bought a replacement relay for $10 and that had no effect. My dad sat in the car with me and I turned it on - no airmatic malfunction. I surmised this was because it wasn't trying to lower the car anymore with the added 320lb. I pressed the vehicle raise button and the vehicle began to raise. I pressed it again (to bring it back down) and it immediately brought back the malfunction. I'm 100% convince at this point that the problem is with the pressure relief valve. I am going to take the splash shield off the compressor later today and do some wire continuity checks. I'm betting there is a bad wire going to the PRV causing the "open" code that I've read about. Will report back with findings.
I bought a replacement relay for $10 and that had no effect. My dad sat in the car with me and I turned it on - no airmatic malfunction. I surmised this was because it wasn't trying to lower the car anymore with the added 320lb. I pressed the vehicle raise button and the vehicle began to raise. I pressed it again (to bring it back down) and it immediately brought back the malfunction. I'm 100% convince at this point that the problem is with the pressure relief valve. I am going to take the splash shield off the compressor later today and do some wire continuity checks. I'm betting there is a bad wire going to the PRV causing the "open" code that I've read about. Will report back with findings.
12-22-2017, 03:50 PM
#4
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Dropped the heat/splash shield from the compressor and immediately had a bad wire staring me in the face. It had been rubbing against the heat shield and gone clear through the protective shield around the wires and through the insulation. I put a butt splice on the wire and tried to tuck it out of the way better so it won't rub. Airmatic runs just fine now.
12-22-2017, 05:21 PM
#5
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2010 E350 4Matic
Dropped the heat/splash shield from the compressor and immediately had a bad wire staring me in the face. It had been rubbing against the heat shield and gone clear through the protective shield around the wires and through the insulation. I put a butt splice on the wire and tried to tuck it out of the way better so it won't rub. Airmatic runs just fine now.
That's a beautiful thing. Congrats on not giving up. Sounds like poor wire routing by Mercedes.
02-20-2018, 06:27 PM
#6
S
Dropped the heat/splash shield from the compressor and immediately had a bad wire staring me in the face. It had been rubbing against the heat shield and gone clear through the protective shield around the wires and through the insulation. I put a butt splice on the wire and tried to tuck it out of the way better so it won't rub. Airmatic runs just fine now.
02-20-2018, 07:47 PM
#7
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
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02-20-2018, 10:01 PM
#9
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
With so many variations between MB models, I never take anything for granted.
Even US EPC shows different exhaust for my W212 regardless starting with VIN.
How long takes you to stick your head under rear bumper?
Even US EPC shows different exhaust for my W212 regardless starting with VIN.
How long takes you to stick your head under rear bumper?
02-21-2018, 12:56 AM
#10
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2010 e550 p2
Cant see nothing just from underneath , i think there is heat shield thats covering components. I dont even think i have any of that (like in the pics above) , everything is inside of trunk on the left. Might be wrong , but pretty positive
lol
lol
02-21-2018, 10:56 AM
#11
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'71 Pinto
02-21-2018, 12:22 PM
#12
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2014 E550-sold 😩
that confirms post #7
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kajtek1 (02-22-2018)
02-21-2018, 06:01 PM
#15
Took me 5 mins to find it but there you have it. I spliced the wire, reattached and put wire shrink wrap on it and put it all back together and BAMMM like new.Thx guys for your help and Alex you're a genius bud!!!
