Can’t turn car off
Please help,




I'm thinking this is a stuck solenoid, i.e. very easy fix if you know which one it is...
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Yes try putting in and out of park to see it that enables the shut-off
nothing at all ... today was really bad took about 20 minutes to get it to turn off
goes in and out of park with the door open and everything else still runs... I’m sure it’s something simple( I hope) like a switch but it’s a c*ap shoot when it’s not giving a code...
is there a switch by the shift lever (at the transmission) that is not making? Maybe?




nothing at all ... today was really bad took about 20 minutes to get it to turn off
goes in and out of park with the door open and everything else still runs... I’m sure it’s something simple( I hope) like a switch but it’s a c*ap shoot when it’s not giving a code...
is there a switch by the shift lever (at the transmission) that is not making? Maybe?
http://www.mercedesmedic.com/e-class...ram-2010-2016/
Certainly, if you pulled the fuse that runs the fuel pump, the engine would stop. There are also fuses for Keyless go also. I would have expected some fr ignition but don't see those.
Did you look in the owners manual?? Or talk to a Dealership service advisor?
I mentioned this to a friend who is into electronics by profession and he said its probably safer to start pulling the relays within the fuse box out.
Pull that fuse if you like, but its safer to pull the relay in my (and the electrician's) opinion.
I gave my recommendation.
I'd hate to see anyone unnecessarily exposing themselves to getting hurt, especially when dealing with high current.




Pull that fuse if you like, but its safer to pull the relay in my (and the electrician's) opinion.




I gave my recommendation.
I'd hate to see anyone unnecessarily exposing themselves to getting hurt, especially when dealing with high current.

I think it is you who is mixing the danger here. Voltage kills / hurts people and very seldom current.
In a car's 12 volt system it is hard to get enough current to hurt you as the current is so low when people handle the electronic parts. You know the U=R x I, right? From this I=U/R meaning when you divide the 12 volts with relatively high human resistance there isn't much amps to hurt anyone. Just don't go poke around the spark plug wires when the car runs as voltage is very high.
Yes, amperage hurts but you need voltage to carry those amps. Without volts, no hurt.
If you ever used an electric welder you would know this. I have used a stick welder in my past job that put out 600 amps but it never hurt me touching the welding rod and I was standing inside the metal pod I was welding that was grounded to the welder. Welders do not put out much volts but lots of amps to melt the metal being welded and the rod, of course.
pulling a breaker on a highly inductive load can result in a huge voltage jump since you are trying top break a circuit which really wants to maintain current through the inductor.
remember this is the principle of how they used to generate spark in the spark plug.
Pulling the fuse on a motor can give an interesting little surprise.
Managed to stop the engine running but the electronics would not turn off
cha ching!!!
this is going to hurt...ouch
thanks for all the suggestion




Managed to stop the engine running but the electronics would not turn off
cha ching!!!
this is going to hurt...ouch
thanks for all the suggestion
If this is the problem it should not cost more than around $650 by the writings as this is what it cost for people with the blown fuse problem. They replace the whole F32 for the fix, not just the fuse so the fix should be the same.








