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this upgrade is far better than what you are replacing because of added operating margins. The jockers that spec'ed 16V caps knew what chaos they were after...
These basic audio capacitors have been around since 1950's... AC/DC audio couplers are not mysterious: they conduct the AC and block the DC.
Fear not... but be sure to match the orientation of negative (-) polarity when soldering these caps and use heatsink paste where spotted on the hot chips.
+++++ 3300uF vs. 4700uF ++++
> Using a higher capacitance value helps conduct wider frequency band with more plates surface.
The larger cap is a bit stronger with no downside for that improvement besides physical size.
> The premature failure is from low insulation voltage having no margin. Caps have operating life after that the failure rate goes up. Anything better than ridiculous 16V is an improvement !!!
✌️
Does anyone know of someone in Orange County area who is smart with stuff like this that can take amp out and replace bad parts with better newer parts? Basically someone with good audio and logic board knowledge which has these better upgraded parts in stock where one can stop by and they can quickly fix such issues one is having. I now have this problem in my 2014 E350 Coupe with Harmon Kardon speaker system in it.
I'm having the same speaker melting issues, reading through all of this it appears to be the same amp issues as everyone else. My question though, is if the individual sub amp tends to go bad. My 2014 has the 2 amps and it seems the sub is the one that burned out.
Does that sub amp get fried if the main goes? Does it ever fry on its own? Or is it almost always a main amp issue?
I'm having the same speaker melting issues, reading through all of this it appears to be the same amp issues as everyone else. My question though, is if the individual sub amp tends to go bad. My 2014 has the 2 amps and it seems the sub is the one that burned out.
Does that sub amp get fried if the main goes? Does it ever fry on its own? Or is it almost always a main amp issue?
They fry individually on their own schedule based on your music preference. What they don't like is too much heat and 15V-spikes into 16V Max caps.
I hope it's ok to piggyback on this thread. I've got a 2014 e350 (well, my wife does lol, VIN WDDHF5KB6EB062162). I've always maintained that her audio system (from the day be bought it CPO) just didn't sound right. It always sounded to me like it was distorted / like a speaker was blown or something. Anyway, finally we're dealing with the dreaded cracking and popping. the other day when I was investigating, the rear dash speaker was wicked hot, cracking and popping, smelled of "hot electrical components."
I've removed the amp and looking for a replacement on ebay. My amp part number from the label is A2129006226 - How critical is the part number to match exactly? There are many listings that say they are for the same model / year but have a slightly different part number (usually the last 3/4 digits).
If this amp has already "eaten" several speakers, is it really worth doing the capacitor replacement fix on it, or should I just order a used one from ebay? Or am I just going to end up with the same problem?
I hope it's ok to piggyback on this thread. I've got a 2014 e350 (well, my wife does lol, VIN WDDHF5KB6EB062162). I've always maintained that her audio system (from the day be bought it CPO) just didn't sound right. It always sounded to me like it was distorted / like a speaker was blown or something. Anyway, finally we're dealing with the dreaded cracking and popping. the other day when I was investigating, the rear dash speaker was wicked hot, cracking and popping, smelled of "hot electrical components."
I've removed the amp and looking for a replacement on ebay. My amp part number from the label is A2129006226 - How critical is the part number to match exactly? There are many listings that say they are for the same model / year but have a slightly different part number (usually the last 3/4 digits).
If this amp has already "eaten" several speakers, is it really worth doing the capacitor replacement fix on it, or should I just order a used one from ebay? Or am I just going to end up with the same problem?
Thanks,
Chris
Chris, great questions!
The answer is you can only do what's you think is right and hope for the best.
There's no guarantee things are going to be as well as expected.
What's helping your amp fry your speaker collection can resume with next amp + new speakers.
There are multiple problems combined in your sound system.
You can fix ir replace your amp and hope it does stays fixed.
I believe external power glitches are in it for something. The barebone 16V caps are reacting to that.
🤞
re the part number for the amp, there's likely multiple PNs, where each one succeeds the previous, you'd need access to the full Mercedes parts catalog and use your VIN to suss out the list of which ones might be direct replacements.
Chris, great questions!
The answer is you can only do what's you think is right and hope for the best.
There's no guarantee things are going to be as well as expected.
What's helping your amp fry your speaker collection can resume with next amp + new speakers.
There are multiple problems combined in your sound system.
You can fix ir replace your amp and hope it does stays fixed.
I believe external power glitches are in it for something. The barebone 16V caps are reacting to that.
🤞
Thanks! I agree. If the "real" problem is that some external power fluctuation is causing the issue, replacing the amp and not addressing the actual problem, seems like a very temporary fix. I did remove the amp and locate the caps, they certainly look easy enough to replace. I think what I'll do is buy a replacement amp on ebay AND buy the larger capacitors to replace on my old amp. Is replacing the caps on the old amp really the complete fix? No additional damage was likey done to the amp?
re the part number for the amp, there's likely multiple PNs, where each one succeeds the previous, you'd need access to the full Mercedes parts catalog and use your VIN to suss out the list of which ones might be direct replacements.
Yeah .. I'm hoping someone can help me sus out the correct part numbers that are valid replacements for the amp. The number on my actual amp is A2129006226 .. there are a TON of A2129005213 .. I am hoping the 5213 part number is acceptable, since there are so many more of them and they are less expensive. If there is anyone who can help me figure out the multiple part numbers .. my VIN is WDDHF5KB6EB062162
ok, I guess I still DO have parts catalog access, I thought it expired when I was traveling earlier this year and I let it go.
your VIN's options uses Amplifier A2129005213 superseded by A2129006226
so the 5213 is an earlier version, but either /should/ work. No idea what changed. I believe these sound system componentss were made by Harman - Becker
The notes on either of those states, 672 PART MUST BE CHECKED FOR CURRENT FLASHWARE AFTER INSTALLATION ("Flashware" is what Mercedes calls software/firmware). When I wanted something re-flashed, a dealer charged me like $250, and I don't think independent shops have access to the flashware.
ok, I guess I still DO have parts catalog access, I thought it expired when I was traveling earlier this year and I let it go.
your VIN's options uses Amplifier A2129005213 superseded by A2129006226
so the 5213 is an earlier version, but either /should/ work. No idea what changed. I believe these sound system componentss were made by Harman - Becker
The notes on either of those states, 672 PART MUST BE CHECKED FOR CURRENT FLASHWARE AFTER INSTALLATION ("Flashware" is what Mercedes calls software/firmware). When I wanted something re-flashed, a dealer charged me like $250, and I don't think independent shops have access to the flashware.
Awesome! Thanks so much, I really appreciate that! I have the "Benz Ninja" deal, so I think I can get the flash done. I wonder if I need or should save the buffer data from the old amp before I make the swap.
how does that center HK dashboard speaker grill come off? just pry it up with a trim tool ?
yes, pry up a bit the rear side then SLIDE back.
I recall the front legs being not straight.
4 plastic latching "legs"..
rear are straight
front are bent
Be gentle to learn as you go,
else research picture of used part.
Don't worry too much here.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 06-12-2024 at 04:33 PM.
Be sure to post how it goes. I'm about to do this on my 2014 e350 w212 once my replacement speaker gets here. Does yours have the smaller center grill that is in the middle of the larger grill? There's surprising few videos on this that I've been able to find.
Our delicate dual-coils front speaker is damaged by high heat + age. It doesn't tolerate well these unfavorable conditions.
The risk of SPK blowing up the main Amp is not worth ignoring.
> High heat comes from...
Hot IR sun radiations through the windshield
Hot display Module
Hot 200F always-ON heater core
High powered music
Lack of BLOWER cooling !!!
I have reworked this by epoxy gluing the spk diaphragm (3x light tiny dots of serious glue) and poking a few safety holes in the air filter used to cool my dashboard.
When I park outside in high sun I use a napkin to cover SPK when I remember to....
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 06-12-2024 at 04:35 PM.
I have been working with BenzNinja on some speaker / headunit misbehavior. He looked through the docs / info and determined I don't have a center "instrument cluster speaker." I really thought I did and that it's under this front dash grill.
Can anyone tell me if 1. There is a small, center, instrument cluster speaker under this grill. And 2. Are there any instructions on removing / replacing this speaker, if there is one under there? I assume it's just clipped in and can hopefully be removed without having to tear into the dash. Being such an obvious location, I REALLY don't want to accidentally break this piece.
I guess the documentation / service manual is not accurate or incomplete. Anyway, this is definitely the center / instrument cluster speaker cover. There are two "hinge hooks" toward the front side against the windshield. On the sides and front a simple trim tool will pop the single trim clip and two "tabs" that hold this piece in. The speaker is held in with a friction "ball and socket" .. easily pops out, disconnect the connectors, pop the new one in. Job tasks 3 - 5 minutes tops.
Is there a good video or guide on removing the rear deck on a w212? I've replaced the center dash speaker, the amp and now working on the rear sub assembly. I have everything removed except the rear deck (I've removed all the c-pillar trim, the rear seat and back cushion. But I'm struggling with the actual rear deck, and specifically where / how it attaches against the rear window side of things.
09-14-2023, 09:13 PM
