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First sorry for the dumb name made it when I was younger. I have 2010 E350 4matic with 116k miles and I have a vibration at idle that I cannot fix. I changed all 3 mounts didnt really help. I got it checked for vacuum leak and apparently there is none. I just changed the spark plugs with bosch double platinum, mann air filter, and fresh mobil 1 oil change. The engine is clearly vibrating and it gets worse when its cold and worse when in gear. It only vibrates at idle ~550-600 rpm so at start up when idle is high no vibration but once it goes down it starts vibrating and when I put it in gear and it drops even more the vibrations get worse. If I give it some gas and raise it to like 700 smooth as butter. While driving around its smooth. I feel a little of hesitation when accelerating at ~3-4k rpm but only at partial throttle and for a little bit. I checked MAF by unplugging it and starting it up and it still was vibrating. NO CEL and NO codes. When the engine gets warm it gets alot better sometimes goes away depending on how long its been running and how warm it is out. I tried one bottle of techron and only use 93. I also get a vibration coming from the engine/under the dash area Im assuming from like where the trans connects when I turn the wheel when my car is at idle and its cold. Gets better/ goes away when engine is warm. This doesnt happen at low speeds just when stopped I dont have any issues with turning while moving or anything like that its just at idle when cold. Thanks for any help.
I have same problem I did find any code or anything
Don't know if OP fixed it (haven't read all of the posts), but from his opening description, makes me think the PCV valve (may be saying the same thing as bbirdwell above). It's in the back of the engine against the firewall and not very easy to get to. I had mine replaced around 65k miles (mine also had new mounts, fluids, plugs, filters, etc...very well maintained). I didn't really have a lot of symptoms, just kind've wanted to get it replaced. The result was very noticeable in smoothness of the engine at idle, the ease of it starting, and quietness. Won't say night/day because mine was running fine already, but after the new PCV went in, it was running like it was brand spankin' new off the factory floor. Veeeerrryyyy smooth.. For example, before when I'd start it, it would idle at higher rpms like you would expect to warm up. After it was replaced, it would immediately start up and sit at lower rpms, like it was breathing better and didn't need to rev harder. Also went into gear initially much smoother too. Just kind of floated into drive on a cold engine instead of that faint "lurch".
Cost about $700 at my Indi to do because of the process to actually get to it to replace it.
I'm chasing down an idle vibration which is quite weird. So far I've replaced spark plugs as they were overdue and the engine/trans mount - I got 96 000 miles off them so that's all good, no complaints here.
The idle vibration is almost gone in cold weather - up to 75F or 24C ambient temperature there's little to none vibration. The higher the ambient temperature goes the more the vibration is pronounced. Turning the AC on, definitely elevates the vibration and turning it off almost removes it complete (or removes it completely). I've scanned the car and have no issues, - A/C pressure is ~ 14.5-14.9. I'll be changing the belt, pulleys and tensioner, soon enough as that's due and I need to tackle the dredded M272 oil leaks upfront. The car is a 2011 E350 RWD M272. I have no other stored codes. Any ideas are welcomed.
I have no oil leaks at the back of the engine - PCV, etc.
Decided to revive this topic if anyone has a fix for this?
55 000 miles on the spark plugs. No oil in the spark plug holes or in the coil boots.
I'm a bit confused, wouldn't a misfire be registered as a fault + CEL? I have no other issues other than the slight vibration.
If I drive around with no AC, the I feel nothing.
If the ambient temperature is lower or around 75F I don't feel the vibrations.. how would that be connected to a misfire?
If the car is so sensitive during idle, wouldn't it matter during acceleration, etc?
EDIT:
I'm also getting pretty decent MPGs for the vehicle - 23.8 on average with mixed city/highway.
Last edited by georgiuzunov; Sep 3, 2024 at 09:01 PM.
Intake manifold gaskets (six, green color), if leaking air, will cause misfire-like symptoms and idle vibration. But it is not always possible to install them correctly, if not following the process.
I’m not sure if you are still following this thread, but I wanted to share what finally solved my cold-start steering wheel vibration over the past three years. Two things made all the difference for me.
First, I replaced the A/C compressor oil with fresh PAG 46 and recharged the system.
Second, I replaced the oil separator and the PCV case on the rear (passenger side) of the engine.
Most importantly, I reset the cold idle adaptation with a diagnostic tool. The next morning, the vibration was gone as if by magic.
I’m not sure if you are still following this thread, but I wanted to share what finally solved my cold-start steering wheel vibration over the past three years. Two things made all the difference for me.
First, I replaced the A/C compressor oil with fresh PAG 46 and recharged the system.
Second, I replaced the oil separator and the PCV case on the rear (passenger side) of the engine.
Most importantly, I reset the cold idle adaptation with a diagnostic tool. The next morning, the vibration was gone as if by magic.
Hope this helps you.
Unfortunately I no longer have the vehicle but it's nice to know you finally got around to fixing the issue!
I’m not sure if you are still following this thread, but I wanted to share what finally solved my cold-start steering wheel vibration over the past three years. Two things made all the difference for me.
First, I replaced the A/C compressor oil with fresh PAG 46 and recharged the system.
Second, I replaced the oil separator and the PCV case on the rear (passenger side) of the engine.
Most importantly, I reset the cold idle adaptation with a diagnostic tool. The next morning, the vibration was gone as if by magic.
Hope this helps you.
Thank you for sharing this excellent repairs.
Out of that list I vote for the failed PCV near 100kMi. Too much air entering the engine from uncontrolled crankcase flow makes it hard for ECU to adjust.
Thank you for sharing this excellent repairs.
Out of that list I vote for the failed PCV near 100kMi. Too much air entering the engine from uncontrolled crankcase flow makes it hard for ECU to adjust.
I haven’t actually done anything with the pcv system in a while as I’ll replace the whole system when I replace the intake manifold ( the common lever arm broken on swirl flap actuator).
last sprigs changed the spark plugs and they all had some deposits after a 100 miles, not sure if that is abnormal for that many miles or if that would be from lean conditions caused by faulty pvc, but I’m guessing it would be
I haven’t actually done anything with the pcv system in a while as I’ll replace the whole system when I replace the intake manifold ( the common lever arm broken on swirl flap actuator).
last sprigs changed the spark plugs and they all had some deposits after a 100 miles, not sure if that is abnormal for that many miles or if that would be from lean conditions caused by faulty pvc, but I’m guessing it would be
Are these Platinum plugs and not Iridium, right?
The color is perfectly great between dark and clear.
The gap is huge, regardless the igition coils were powering sparks properly.
What about the same picture for all other cylinders with numbers ??
> PCV fails in more than one way:
the diaphragm membrane gets torn up so it no longer seal
the outlet tube gets plug up solid with vaprized oil oil carbon.
Are these Platinum plugs and not Iridium, right?
The color is perfectly great between dark and clear.
The gap is huge, regardless the igition coils were powering sparks properly.
What about the same picture for all other cylinders with numbers ??
> PCV fails in more than one way:
the diaphragm membrane gets torn up so it no longer seal
the outlet tube gets plug up solid with vaprized oil oil carbon.
yes, platinum, NGK PLKR7A specifically, all 6 plugs look almost similar.
Easy way to diagnose the PCV. Start car,, while idling, open the oil fill cap and hold a piece of paper over the opening. If you see suction then it’s fine. If the piece of paper just rests atop of the oil fill port, then the PCV is bad and needs to be replaced. I know when I changed mine, it ran much better in general.
Easy way to diagnose the PCV. Start car,, while idling, open the oil fill cap and hold a piece of paper over the opening. If you see suction then it’s fine. If the piece of paper just rests atop of the oil fill port, then the PCV is bad and needs to be replaced.
I know when I changed mine, it ran much better in general.
what mileage did your PCV start going bad ?
Note that a failed PCV also cause high crankcase vacuum level.
I had it replaced probably around 65k-ish. I sold it at around 72k-ish in Jan 2024. I had it replaced out of precaution due to direct injection engine. Made a very notable difference in how easy it started up, idled, and just overall smoothed out the engine. I was not expecting any of those results, which essentially told me that it was probably getting close to becoming problematic anyway. It's not an easy job though as it's located behind the engine and you have to remove some stuff. Cost me roughly $800 at my trusted indi to do it, with 70% of that being the labor to get to it. But not money wasted given the results.
A failing PCV will cause oil leaks as well. I did have the common cam magnet leaks at about 50k miles. As you note, when the PCV starts to degrade, the internal pressures rise in the engine, which eventually will find the weak spots in the seals. Our 2020 GLS is at 90k, and I can tell it's getting close to needing a new PCV too. I did tip/tail on all fluids, filters, plugs at 50k.
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