Buying My First MB and Need Advice
I am thinking about purchasing my first MercedesBenz. The vehicle is a 2014 Mercedes-Benz E-Class E 350 Sport with 55,000miles. The price is a little under $20,000 from a private seller. The vehicle has the following options: Sport Package, Leather Seats, Sunroof/Moonroof, Power Package, Navigation System, Appearance Package, Premium 1 Package, Bluetooth, Premium Wheels, Backup Camera, Heat Package, and Lighting Package.
I have been browsing this forum looking for reliability and other information about these vehicles and have some questions regarding.
- I am in Texas, heat is a big deal. In the past few days, users have been saying that Speakers have been melting in the vehicles.
- How rare is this?
- How expensive is this to repair without warranty?
- Is there going to be a recall due to the increased fire hazard of electrical components?
- I also saw a thread about Auxiliary Battery Malfunctions.
- Most of the issues came from vehicles with about 30,000miles, does this mean that the battery needs to be replaced every 30,000miles or were these early production issues?
- Maintenence
- What is the average cost of A and B service for these vehicles?
- What should I expect at 60,000miles, 75,000miles, and 100,000miles?
- Is the price too good to be true?
I know I am asking a lot of questions, I just want to know that I am not purchasing a money pit.
Thanks!
Cannon





You don't want to get too paranoid with posts about problems on these forums. The vast majority of MB owners never post here, because they don't know this forum, or don't have any problems.
Last edited by DFWdude; Jun 10, 2018 at 04:43 PM.
You don't want to get too paranoid with posts about problems on these forums. The vast majority of MB owners never post here, because they don't know this forum, or don't have any problems.
I am actually in Plano for the summer. I visited TexasCarsDirect about two months ago (I have been looking for a while) and they had a great selection. I found an E350 there with every feature I wanted with super low mileage and in my budget. It sat there for months, so I figured I would go see it the next day. That car sold before I got there - my luck. I have been looking at their selection, but last time I checked there was nothing in my budget.
Thank you DFWdude!
Price seems right for the mileage. In SoCal where I buy all my cars, you can get a 2-3 year old E350 with under 20k miles in the low $30s.
No battery issues at 52K miles.
Dealer Service is very expensive. Indy shop will save you at least 20%
Only problem I've had is a key stopped working under warranty. Took 3 days to get a replacement key from MB.





People fly in from around the country to buy their cars. No nonsense, no haggle pricing supposedly just $1K above the auction price paid (see video) and a good $6-7K less than an identical car CPO'd from a MB dealer.
Not endorsing this place, except to say that my buying experience was the most trouble-free in years. And I have 18 more months to find any issues before the 4-year warranty runs out.
Last edited by DFWdude; Jun 10, 2018 at 05:14 PM.
People fly in from around the country to buy their cars. No nonsense, no haggle pricing supposedly just $1K above the auction price paid (see video) and a good $6-7K less than an identical car CPO'd from a MB dealer.
Not endorsing this place, except to say that my buying experience was the most trouble-free in years. And I have 18 more months to find any issues before the 4-year warranty runs out.
Anyway, just checked TXCarsDirect and they don't have as good of a selection (In my price-point) as they had last time I visited their site. Hopefully the cars that traded-in on Memorial Day will start showing up on the market.
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Those cars can be rewarding for owners who can fix them while buying parts cheaper on the net, or can be nightmare if you have no warranty and get milked by stealers.
So first advise for your first MB >> don't buy it without extended warranty.
I am in Vegas, like other member where 120F is not that rare. Melting speakers are not problem, but last week we went for 3 hr hiking in Red Rock Canyon. White car and I left my discount pass (CC shape) on the dashboard.
Week later the card still looks like propeller.
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If you're worried about warranty, you can get an extended warranty if it still has any of the MB warranty left on it. Factory was 4 years/50k so you'd have to check the in service date of the vehicle and it should be under 50k. Then you can buy an extended warranty from the vendors mentioned in the extended warranty sub-forum. You can go up to 7 years/100k in coverage. Of course a car with 55k wouldn't be eligible.
Those cars can be rewarding for owners who can fix them while buying parts cheaper on the net, or can be nightmare if you have no warranty and get milked by stealers.
So first advise for your first MB >> don't buy it without extended warranty.
In hindsight it was worth it to me to have those initial warranties in place.
Brakes will be expensive at dealer and probably needed at 50k depending on your driving condition/style. Price vary a great deal from dealer to dealer on breaks, some as low as $700 some as high as $1500 for one axle (pads and rotors).
Many people recommend finding a good indy shop to do the work. I don't know where they find them, but all the indy shops near me that do good work also charge similar rates to what the MB dealer charges.






As for the brakes, well the key is to go to an indy that charges regular rates. I actually did the rears on my own, took about 1.5 hours with hand tools. Akebono pads for the front and rear are about $100 for both. The rotors I re-used as they were still in good condition. Nothing special about them, pretty much any competent mechanic can do them.
If you're the dealer type, I think the warranty is good peace of mind and there are stories of people getting their money's worth, but of course others don't. For me, both cars were out of warranty, but sometimes I think it'd be nicer to just be able to drop the car off and get a loaner while everything is getting fixed. I find cheap indys but they don't do loaners so either I have to make arrangements to drop it off, or I wait a few hours while it's getting repaired. Not as easy, but much cheaper than the dealer, my indys tend to be be 1/4 to 1/3 the price of the dealer as I usually get the parts myself and the indys charge regular rates, not MB rates.
Unfortunately, the car I was looking at sold this morning. This is the definition of my luck! I do really look forward to using all of the tips and tricks that you all have provided. I cannot wait to get my car and help contribute to this amazing community.
Thanks everyone,
Cannon




Unfortunately, the car I was looking at sold this morning. This is the definition of my luck! I do really look forward to using all of the tips and tricks that you all have provided. I cannot wait to get my car and help contribute to this amazing community.
Thanks everyone,
Cannon
I still like my car after 8 years and just put four new tires on it. But in reality I have more confidence in my wife's 4 year old Nissan Rogue for reliability.
Personally, I prefer using dealerships - too many bad experiences with independents. Call it insurance or peace of mind. Same with extended warranties.
- I live in GA and my speakers have not melted so rest assured this is very rare if someone is reporting it.
- my 2012 is 61k miles and i have yet to change the battery once. My dads 2010 E350 has changed it once at 50k miles
- Maintenance - Not sure how much A/B cost specifically since different dealers charge different prices and I've done a few things on my own. Here's a small bit of what i've done recently : your spark plug change will run 400-600 at 60k miles. transmission fluid is either 40k or 70k miles and thats 500-600. Filters are easy to DIY (90$ parts) and brake fluid is around 120-250. i'm going to be changing 2 rotors and 4 brake pads at a local indie shop for close to $1000 soon.
- Price looks okay considering ~8500/year depreciation



