E-Class (W212) 2010 - 2016: E 350, E 550
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Old Jun 17, 2018 | 01:18 PM
  #1  
gregory davis's Avatar
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2010 e350
Ac problems...

So it’s getting hot where I live and I decided I’ll use the ac I had it on max cool for about 20 mins cause it was hot out .I stopped by house for 3 mins ran back to my car and noticed warm air coming out the vents.When I noticed that I thought I must off hit the ac button by mistake but when I press the ac button it just blinks and no ac at all... I’ve searched and searched to no avail can’t find any info on the w212 pertaining to my issue.
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Old Jun 17, 2018 | 03:19 PM
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
http://www.mercedesmedic.com/ac-air-...le-codes-list/
For last 20 years MB is using computerized AC controls, who might have different climatronics/controls, but all operate on r134 and have the same logics/sensors.
W212 no longer allows reading the sensors on dashboard, so you need a computer, but once you read the sensors values on at least 2 listed situations -- post the values here and we help with interpretation.
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Old Jun 17, 2018 | 03:23 PM
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2010 e350
Ac unit

Originally Posted by kajtek1
http://www.mercedesmedic.com/ac-air-...le-codes-list/
For last 20 years MB is using computerized AC controls, who might have different climatronics/controls, but all operate on r134 and have the same logics/sensors.
W212 no longer allows reading the sensors on dashboard, so you need a computer, but once you read the sensors values on at least 2 listed situations -- post the values here and we help with interpretation.
what kind of computer like a tool that they can use at autozone and dad the issues or more sophisticated?
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Old Jun 17, 2018 | 06:43 PM
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Running on max AC that long with the colder cabin air recirculating could lead to the pressure dropping in the system as there is less heat to remove. Perhaps a sensor tripped to protect the compressor. Have you tried to run the AC since after letting the car sit for a while?
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Old Jun 17, 2018 | 06:53 PM
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2010 e350
Ac

Originally Posted by thefisch
Running on max AC that long with the colder cabin air recirculating could lead to the pressure dropping in the system as there is less heat to remove. Perhaps a sensor tripped to protect the compressor. Have you tried to run the AC since after letting the car sit for a while?
I tried but it just blinks and doesn’t engage no ac clutch or anything
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Old Jun 17, 2018 | 07:04 PM
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Ac

Originally Posted by thefisch
Running on max AC that long with the colder cabin air recirculating could lead to the pressure dropping in the system as there is less heat to remove. Perhaps a sensor tripped to protect the compressor. Have you tried to run the AC since after letting the car sit for a while?
Incase it was a safety precaution and is there a way to reset the system?

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Old Jun 17, 2018 | 07:28 PM
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Not a lot you can do without proper diagnostic tools. You could disconnect the battery but if the system is storing a code it will retain that. Personally, I would let it sit overnight and try again tomorrow. If the symptoms persist, you'll probably need help unless you've serviced AC parts before.
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Old Jun 17, 2018 | 07:50 PM
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The system works with 7 or more sensors, dozen of flaps and sophisticated software.
"Hammer and chisel" are not going to fix it.
You need proper troubleshooting and if you don't have a scanner that can do that already, good luck shopping around for one.
I have MaxiEcu for couple of years, who can do advanced procedures on older modules, but even I contact the manufacturer, they are delaying software for 651 engine.
So I bought iCarsoft MBII who does, so now for AC troubleshooting I have 2 scanners to choose from.
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Old Jun 17, 2018 | 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by gregory davis

I tried but it just blinks and doesn’t engage no ac clutch or anything
There's no ac clutch. It uses a variable displacement compressor so you never hear it click on or off. Just adjusts itself depending on the demand of the system. There's no way around getting it scanned. Either pay up at the dealer or get your own scanner that can do MB codes. Lots of options out there for around $100. There's DiagLink from Autel, about $92 on Amazon right now. I'm still using my Launch X431 which I got years ago. They're in the $100 range for the Easy Diag Plus which comes with software for two car lines on aliexpress.

Amazon Amazon
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Old Jun 17, 2018 | 08:35 PM
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OP, let us know what they find if you get it serviced.
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Old Jun 18, 2018 | 06:05 AM
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Ac problems

I really appreciate everybody’s quick response you guys have been very helpful answering my questions...I guess the saying goes if You Wanna Drive a Mercedes you got To have the money to fix it... I just hope it’s not gonna be 1200 1300 dollars.I’m gonna take it to a specialist that works on AIdia Mercedes today I’ll let you guys know what they find.
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Old Jun 18, 2018 | 05:54 PM
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So I used max cool earlier today when it was almost 90 outside just to try it out as I rarely use that. I had to turn it back to auto mode after a few minutes because it was freezing. I can't imagine running that for 20 minutes like you mentioned in your first post (not sure how hot and humid it is where you live but I'm in Florida). I am wondering if your system was already underperforming for some reason (like a refrigerant leak or failing component like a compressor) for you to have to run it on max for that long. Does it normally take that long to cool your car off?
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Old Jun 18, 2018 | 06:18 PM
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Ac problems

[QUOTE=thefisch;7482159]So I used max cool earlier today when it was almost 90 outside just to try it out as I rarely use that. I had to turn it back to auto mode after a few minutes because it was freezing. I can't imagine running that for 20 minutes like you mentioned in your first post (not sure how hot and humid it is where you live but I'm in Florida). I am wondering if your system was already underperforming for some reason (like a refrigerant leak or failing component like a compressor) for you to have to run it on max for that long. Does it normally take that long to cool your car off?[/QUOTE

come to think of it when I first purchased the car I couldn’t endure max cool for long...perhaps it was Underperforming it was cold but it wasn’t very cold I was supposed to go get it looked at today but I had to go to work early I just hope its not going to be a super expensive fix There are independent specialist in my area they want 120$ to 140$ an hour just to diagnosis I tried Disconnecting the battery the light will stay on for like 10 seconds no cold air and light would come on again. Is just amazes me how there’s no specific issues on the internet for reference pertaining to my model car for the AC problems almost as if they don’t exist for the W 212.
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Old Jun 18, 2018 | 06:26 PM
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You may want to check around to see if MB dealer has any AC service specials in your area. Sometimes I've seen diagnosis deals. They should be able to tell quickly based on what the system reports to them.

I haven't read on here about any recurring AC issues. But I have had cars with AC issues after 8 years. Sometimes it's a slow leak or a failed sensor or component. It's just bad luck. I have a friend who just replaced a condenser with a slow leak after some minor front end damage from a tire on the road.
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Old Jun 18, 2018 | 06:49 PM
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I always wonder about some members way of logic.
-you can spend $150 on scanner and diagnose the problem now, as well as most problems in the future from the comfort of driver seat
-or you can spend time to drive to mechanic, seat on greasy couch for 1 hr and spend $150 over and over again to have them do it for you.
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Old Jun 19, 2018 | 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by gregory davis
So it’s getting hot where I live and I decided I’ll use the ac I had it on max cool for about 20 mins cause it was hot out .I stopped by house for 3 mins ran back to my car and noticed warm air coming out the vents.When I noticed that I thought I must off hit the ac button by mistake but when I press the ac button it just blinks and no ac at all... I’ve searched and searched to no avail can’t find any info on the w212 pertaining to my issue.
The SIMPLEST step of troubleshooting is to check the refrigerant pressure. You can go and buy a refrigerant fill bottle with a gauge on it that you can connect to the low pressure side of the A/C system and see what the pressure is while engine running idle. Good fill bottles have pressure gauges with adjustable "pressure window" for the ambient temperature.

I don't know what the blinking A/C light means but it could be low charge indication.
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Old Jun 20, 2018 | 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by kajtek1
I always wonder about some members way of logic.
-you can spend $150 on scanner and diagnose the problem now, as well as most problems in the future from the comfort of driver seat
-or you can spend time to drive to mechanic, seat on greasy couch for 1 hr and spend $150 over and over again to have them do it for you.
That is a valid point... It’s probably best that I invest in a scanner since more problems will arise as r car is getting old
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Old Jun 20, 2018 | 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Arrie
The SIMPLEST step of troubleshooting is to check the refrigerant pressure. You can go and buy a refrigerant fill bottle with a gauge on it that you can connect to the low pressure side of the A/C system and see what the pressure is while engine running idle. Good fill bottles have pressure gauges with adjustable "pressure window" for the ambient temperature.

I don't know what the blinking A/C light means but it could be low charge indication.
I did put a gauge in it and it was in the red......I had the car since 2014 never charged it
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Old Jun 20, 2018 | 04:22 PM
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The gauges mounted on the can usually show you the can pressure, not the AC pressure. Takes some know-how to use them.
Still with scanner it takes seconds to do proper troubleshooting.... keeping clean fingers.
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Old Jun 20, 2018 | 04:52 PM
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Proper a.c. gauges will show both high and low side pressures at various operating speeds. Relationship of these pressures is important and they also vary as ambient temp varies. The single can gauges don't have much value - systems are very specific in amount of refrigerant.
I just had the compressor on my car replaced under warranty for similar issue, intermittent times the compressor would not kick on even with proper refrigerant level.
As mentioned though, the scanner showed pressures, voltages etc.
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Old Jun 21, 2018 | 12:56 AM
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Originally Posted by kajtek1
The gauges mounted on the can usually show you the can pressure, not the AC pressure. Takes some know-how to use them.
Still with scanner it takes seconds to do proper troubleshooting.... keeping clean fingers.
No,

The gauge shows the system pressure, not the can unless they are the same.

You connect the hose and the pressure pops up without triggering the can and the good ones have the dial adjustment for the ambient temperature,
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Old Jun 21, 2018 | 01:05 AM
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Originally Posted by gregory davis

I did put a gauge in it and it was in the red......I had the car since 2014 never charged it
The pressure being in "RED" would means the system is over charged if everything else is correct but you said you never charged the system and I assume it was working ok.

If all this is correct I think your compressor may have failed.

Last edited by Arrie; Jun 21, 2018 at 04:35 PM.
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