Ac problems...
06-17-2018, 01:18 PM
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2010 e350
Ac problems...
So it’s getting hot where I live and I decided I’ll use the ac I had it on max cool for about 20 mins cause it was hot out .I stopped by house for 3 mins ran back to my car and noticed warm air coming out the vents.When I noticed that I thought I must off hit the ac button by mistake but when I press the ac button it just blinks and no ac at all... I’ve searched and searched to no avail can’t find any info on the w212 pertaining to my issue.
06-17-2018, 03:19 PM
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
http://www.mercedesmedic.com/ac-air-...le-codes-list/
For last 20 years MB is using computerized AC controls, who might have different climatronics/controls, but all operate on r134 and have the same logics/sensors.
W212 no longer allows reading the sensors on dashboard, so you need a computer, but once you read the sensors values on at least 2 listed situations -- post the values here and we help with interpretation.
For last 20 years MB is using computerized AC controls, who might have different climatronics/controls, but all operate on r134 and have the same logics/sensors.
W212 no longer allows reading the sensors on dashboard, so you need a computer, but once you read the sensors values on at least 2 listed situations -- post the values here and we help with interpretation.
06-17-2018, 03:23 PM
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2010 e350
Ac unit
http://www.mercedesmedic.com/ac-air-...le-codes-list/
For last 20 years MB is using computerized AC controls, who might have different climatronics/controls, but all operate on r134 and have the same logics/sensors.
W212 no longer allows reading the sensors on dashboard, so you need a computer, but once you read the sensors values on at least 2 listed situations -- post the values here and we help with interpretation.
For last 20 years MB is using computerized AC controls, who might have different climatronics/controls, but all operate on r134 and have the same logics/sensors.
W212 no longer allows reading the sensors on dashboard, so you need a computer, but once you read the sensors values on at least 2 listed situations -- post the values here and we help with interpretation.
06-17-2018, 06:43 PM
#4
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Running on max AC that long with the colder cabin air recirculating could lead to the pressure dropping in the system as there is less heat to remove. Perhaps a sensor tripped to protect the compressor. Have you tried to run the AC since after letting the car sit for a while?
06-17-2018, 06:53 PM
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2010 e350
Ac
Running on max AC that long with the colder cabin air recirculating could lead to the pressure dropping in the system as there is less heat to remove. Perhaps a sensor tripped to protect the compressor. Have you tried to run the AC since after letting the car sit for a while?
06-17-2018, 07:04 PM
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2010 e350
Ac
Running on max AC that long with the colder cabin air recirculating could lead to the pressure dropping in the system as there is less heat to remove. Perhaps a sensor tripped to protect the compressor. Have you tried to run the AC since after letting the car sit for a while?
06-17-2018, 07:28 PM
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Not a lot you can do without proper diagnostic tools. You could disconnect the battery but if the system is storing a code it will retain that. Personally, I would let it sit overnight and try again tomorrow. If the symptoms persist, you'll probably need help unless you've serviced AC parts before.
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06-17-2018, 07:50 PM
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
The system works with 7 or more sensors, dozen of flaps and sophisticated software.
"Hammer and chisel" are not going to fix it.
You need proper troubleshooting and if you don't have a scanner that can do that already, good luck shopping around for one.
I have MaxiEcu for couple of years, who can do advanced procedures on older modules, but even I contact the manufacturer, they are delaying software for 651 engine.
So I bought iCarsoft MBII who does, so now for AC troubleshooting I have 2 scanners to choose from.
"Hammer and chisel" are not going to fix it.
You need proper troubleshooting and if you don't have a scanner that can do that already, good luck shopping around for one.
I have MaxiEcu for couple of years, who can do advanced procedures on older modules, but even I contact the manufacturer, they are delaying software for 651 engine.
So I bought iCarsoft MBII who does, so now for AC troubleshooting I have 2 scanners to choose from.
06-17-2018, 07:59 PM
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2008 E350 4Matic, 2011 E350 4matic
06-18-2018, 06:05 AM
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2010 e350
Ac problems
I really appreciate everybody’s quick response you guys have been very helpful answering my questions...I guess the saying goes if You Wanna Drive a Mercedes you got To have the money to fix it... I just hope it’s not gonna be 1200 1300 dollars.I’m gonna take it to a specialist that works on AIdia Mercedes today I’ll let you guys know what they find.
06-18-2018, 05:54 PM
#12
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So I used max cool earlier today when it was almost 90 outside just to try it out as I rarely use that. I had to turn it back to auto mode after a few minutes because it was freezing. I can't imagine running that for 20 minutes like you mentioned in your first post (not sure how hot and humid it is where you live but I'm in Florida). I am wondering if your system was already underperforming for some reason (like a refrigerant leak or failing component like a compressor) for you to have to run it on max for that long. Does it normally take that long to cool your car off?
06-18-2018, 06:18 PM
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2010 e350
Ac problems
[QUOTE=thefisch;7482159]So I used max cool earlier today when it was almost 90 outside just to try it out as I rarely use that. I had to turn it back to auto mode after a few minutes because it was freezing. I can't imagine running that for 20 minutes like you mentioned in your first post (not sure how hot and humid it is where you live but I'm in Florida). I am wondering if your system was already underperforming for some reason (like a refrigerant leak or failing component like a compressor) for you to have to run it on max for that long. Does it normally take that long to cool your car off?[/QUOTE
come to think of it when I first purchased the car I couldn’t endure max cool for long...perhaps it was Underperforming it was cold but it wasn’t very cold I was supposed to go get it looked at today but I had to go to work early I just hope its not going to be a super expensive fix There are independent specialist in my area they want 120$ to 140$ an hour just to diagnosis I tried Disconnecting the battery the light will stay on for like 10 seconds no cold air and light would come on again. Is just amazes me how there’s no specific issues on the internet for reference pertaining to my model car for the AC problems almost as if they don’t exist for the W 212.
come to think of it when I first purchased the car I couldn’t endure max cool for long...perhaps it was Underperforming it was cold but it wasn’t very cold I was supposed to go get it looked at today but I had to go to work early I just hope its not going to be a super expensive fix There are independent specialist in my area they want 120$ to 140$ an hour just to diagnosis I tried Disconnecting the battery the light will stay on for like 10 seconds no cold air and light would come on again. Is just amazes me how there’s no specific issues on the internet for reference pertaining to my model car for the AC problems almost as if they don’t exist for the W 212.
06-18-2018, 06:26 PM
#14
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You may want to check around to see if MB dealer has any AC service specials in your area. Sometimes I've seen diagnosis deals. They should be able to tell quickly based on what the system reports to them.
I haven't read on here about any recurring AC issues. But I have had cars with AC issues after 8 years. Sometimes it's a slow leak or a failed sensor or component. It's just bad luck. I have a friend who just replaced a condenser with a slow leak after some minor front end damage from a tire on the road.
I haven't read on here about any recurring AC issues. But I have had cars with AC issues after 8 years. Sometimes it's a slow leak or a failed sensor or component. It's just bad luck. I have a friend who just replaced a condenser with a slow leak after some minor front end damage from a tire on the road.
06-18-2018, 06:49 PM
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
I always wonder about some members way of logic.
-you can spend $150 on scanner and diagnose the problem now, as well as most problems in the future from the comfort of driver seat
-or you can spend time to drive to mechanic, seat on greasy couch for 1 hr and spend $150 over and over again to have them do it for you.
-you can spend $150 on scanner and diagnose the problem now, as well as most problems in the future from the comfort of driver seat
-or you can spend time to drive to mechanic, seat on greasy couch for 1 hr and spend $150 over and over again to have them do it for you.
06-19-2018, 11:25 PM
#16
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So it’s getting hot where I live and I decided I’ll use the ac I had it on max cool for about 20 mins cause it was hot out .I stopped by house for 3 mins ran back to my car and noticed warm air coming out the vents.When I noticed that I thought I must off hit the ac button by mistake but when I press the ac button it just blinks and no ac at all... I’ve searched and searched to no avail can’t find any info on the w212 pertaining to my issue.
I don't know what the blinking A/C light means but it could be low charge indication.
06-20-2018, 03:04 PM
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2010 e350
Ac problems
I always wonder about some members way of logic.
-you can spend $150 on scanner and diagnose the problem now, as well as most problems in the future from the comfort of driver seat
-or you can spend time to drive to mechanic, seat on greasy couch for 1 hr and spend $150 over and over again to have them do it for you.
-you can spend $150 on scanner and diagnose the problem now, as well as most problems in the future from the comfort of driver seat
-or you can spend time to drive to mechanic, seat on greasy couch for 1 hr and spend $150 over and over again to have them do it for you.
06-20-2018, 03:06 PM
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2010 e350
The SIMPLEST step of troubleshooting is to check the refrigerant pressure. You can go and buy a refrigerant fill bottle with a gauge on it that you can connect to the low pressure side of the A/C system and see what the pressure is while engine running idle. Good fill bottles have pressure gauges with adjustable "pressure window" for the ambient temperature.
I don't know what the blinking A/C light means but it could be low charge indication.
I don't know what the blinking A/C light means but it could be low charge indication.
06-20-2018, 04:22 PM
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
The gauges mounted on the can usually show you the can pressure, not the AC pressure. Takes some know-how to use them.
Still with scanner it takes seconds to do proper troubleshooting.... keeping clean fingers.
Still with scanner it takes seconds to do proper troubleshooting.... keeping clean fingers.
06-20-2018, 04:52 PM
#20
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Proper a.c. gauges will show both high and low side pressures at various operating speeds. Relationship of these pressures is important and they also vary as ambient temp varies. The single can gauges don't have much value - systems are very specific in amount of refrigerant.
I just had the compressor on my car replaced under warranty for similar issue, intermittent times the compressor would not kick on even with proper refrigerant level.
As mentioned though, the scanner showed pressures, voltages etc.
I just had the compressor on my car replaced under warranty for similar issue, intermittent times the compressor would not kick on even with proper refrigerant level.
As mentioned though, the scanner showed pressures, voltages etc.
06-21-2018, 12:56 AM
#21
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The gauge shows the system pressure, not the can unless they are the same.
You connect the hose and the pressure pops up without triggering the can and the good ones have the dial adjustment for the ambient temperature,
06-21-2018, 01:05 AM
#22
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If all this is correct I think your compressor may have failed.
Last edited by Arrie; 06-21-2018 at 04:35 PM.
