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The 2013 E350 (m276) is at 90k and the belt is showing a 'lil cracking. Purchased the contitech belt, tensioner, and pulley just in case. Planning to r&r this weekend.
Can I reuse the tensioner bolts? What is the torque value for the tensioner bolts?
The pulley comes with a bolt. Any special procedure for installing? What is the torque callout for the pulley?
I appreciate your help..
I just order the WIS cds from eBay - they will arrive next week. Thanks
Did you end up reusing the tensioner bolts? I cannot find the item number for the bolts at all, and Mercedes does not seem to have a parts catalogue like RealOEM from BMW
Did you end up reusing the tensioner bolts? I cannot find the item number for the bolts at all, and Mercedes does not seem to have a parts catalogue like RealOEM from BMW
The parts catalog is EPC which you can still get on eBay, it's anywhere from $2-$15. It's an older version, stopped in 2020 but still works for an old car. Also comes with the WIS which is the full dealer repair manual. Newest parts catalog from Mercedes is ISPPI which is $92 for a year.
The parts catalog is EPC which you can still get on eBay, it's anywhere from $2-$15. It's an older version, stopped in 2020 but still works for an old car. Also comes with the WIS which is the full dealer repair manual. Newest parts catalog from Mercedes is ISPPI which is $92 for a year.
Sorry to bring up an old thread but I didn't want to burden the forum with a new one since this had a related repair manual reference.
My mom's E350 had a rattle at idle. Inspected it today and it looks like a loose tensioner pulley (not sure if it's possible to be loose or simply a failure). A few questions below (please keep in mind that I'm new to wrenching on Mercedes but I'm a youtube certified mechanic (LOL) on my Toyotas
1) I plan to replace the tensioner pulley along with the 2 guide pulleys and belt. Anything else I should consider while I'm in there?
2) Are OEM parts best value? Pickup at the dealer or are there good online deals?
3) What common tools / sets are needed for basic maintenance on Mercedes? Looks like for this job a set of torx and reverse torx sockets are worthwhile
4) I'll search this as well but any recommendations on "affordable" repair manuals specific to the W212 / M276?
Sorry to bring up an old thread but I didn't want to burden the forum with a new one since this had a related repair manual reference.
My mom's E350 had a rattle at idle. Inspected it today and it looks like a loose tensioner pulley (not sure if it's possible to be loose or simply a failure). A few questions below (please keep in mind that I'm new to wrenching on Mercedes but I'm a youtube certified mechanic (LOL) on my Toyotas
1) I plan to replace the tensioner pulley along with the 2 guide pulleys and belt. Anything else I should consider while I'm in there?
2) Are OEM parts best value? Pickup at the dealer or are there good online deals?
3) What common tools / sets are needed for basic maintenance on Mercedes? Looks like for this job a set of torx and reverse torx sockets are worthwhile
4) I'll search this as well but any recommendations on "affordable" repair manuals specific to the W212 / M276?
1. that’s good
2. dealer only except oil filter was my policy for W166. Most other aftermarket parts can be junk quality especially bearings (pulleys) and electrical parts.
3. metric, torx and e (reverse torx) sockets, and three sizes of click-type torque wrenches
4. $25 or so for WIS on eBay
Thank you for the insights. After some thought, I'm questioning if it's the tensioner. There is a lot of belt/tensioner bounce at idle which is causing the noise. The vehicle only has 32k miles. Could it simply be a stretched belt or is it common for the tensioner to go out at this interval?
Sorry to bring up an old thread but I didn't want to burden the forum with a new one since this had a related repair manual reference.
My mom's E350 had a rattle at idle. Inspected it today and it looks like a loose tensioner pulley (not sure if it's possible to be loose or simply a failure). A few questions below (please keep in mind that I'm new to wrenching on Mercedes but I'm a youtube certified mechanic (LOL) on my Toyotas
1) I plan to replace the tensioner pulley along with the 2 guide pulleys and belt. Anything else I should consider while I'm in there?
2) Are OEM parts best value? Pickup at the dealer or are there good online deals?
3) What common tools / sets are needed for basic maintenance on Mercedes? Looks like for this job a set of torx and reverse torx sockets are worthwhile
4) I'll search this as well but any recommendations on "affordable" repair manuals specific to the W212 / M276?
For oem, I think it's either INA or Gates. You can get them at the usual places, either FCPEuro for their lifetime warranty or rockauto for low prices if you don't care about the warranty or if it already has a lifetime warranty. There are also online MB dealers that discount list prices, but you have to search by MB part number to find the dealer with the best price. They don't include shipping so some dealers with lower discounts can be cheaper than another dealer that charges more for shipping. The WIS is the full dealer repair manual and you can now get a knock off copy on eBay for under $2.
Thank you for the insights. After some thought, I'm questioning if it's the tensioner. There is a lot of belt/tensioner bounce at idle which is causing the noise. The vehicle only has 32k miles. Could it simply be a stretched belt or is it common for the tensioner to go out at this interval?
Well it's common the replace the tensioner, pulleys and belt but 32k is very low. MB doesn't seem to be that good with those, they always went bad on the M272 when they had just 60k on the car. Could be something else though, if you take the belt off, you can check to see if it's one of the other items by see if there's any play on any of the other pulleys.
Well it's common the replace the tensioner, pulleys and belt but 32k is very low. MB doesn't seem to be that good with those, they always went bad on the M272 when they had just 60k on the car. Could be something else though, if you take the belt off, you can check to see if it's one of the other items by see if there's any play on any of the other pulleys.
Agreed about the low mileage but I guess there's the idea that it's almost 9 years old? I pulled the belt earlier, no signs of cracking or divots in the splines. All pulleys rotate freely without any play. I'm going to pickup a new belt and tensioner tomorrow. Try the belt first and if that doesn't fix it, replace the tensioner. Open to suggestions for anything else I should check. Thanks for the help!
Well I meant the other ones like the alternator, a/c etc in addition to the idler pulleys.
Yep, checked all of those and no issues. I'm assuming the tensioner alignment marks should line up with the belt in tension? Mine don't anymore. Please see pic.
Just an update for future reference for anyone that comes across this thread. I was unable to visually tell if the belt was stretched. Both old and new were so close in size so I swapped the belt, two guide pulleys, and tensioner for peace of mind. When I removed the left pulley, the bolt and plastic insert easily fell out. I noticed on the new part, the plastic insert fits snugly in the pulley so there was definitely wear on the old insert. Member S-Prihadi shows and explains this well in this thread. I mention this because the pulleys seemed okay while on the vehicle but you actually need to remove the pulley to check the insert since it's a failure point.
I came across the linked thread while researching why the torque values are different for the two guide pulleys even though they're the same part. One is 25n-m and the other is 35n-m. Still haven't found the right answer so I just used the different torque values but used a dab of blue loctite and called it good.
Regarding the tensioner match marks, attached is a before and after picture of how they align with an old vs new belt, 2 new guide pulleys, and tensioner.
Doing this job is kinda confusing looking at the form it says to torque the guide pulleys to carrier to 70nm then it says Guide pulley carrier/ABC pump to timing case cover/coolant pump to 20nm then is says Guide pulley to coolant pump/oil filter/timing case cover to 35 nm I’m confused on the wording. Can anyone show me a picture or break down on which ones get torqued to what.
Thank you Guys in advance
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