V belt\serpentine belt question
#1
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2010 e550 p2
V belt\serpentine belt question
Hi All , yes i did search forums and couldnt really find anything for w212 specific (mostly w210 or w211 chassis)
so my questions is , whats the average life on this Belt , and does a pully change neccessary too , or only if there are issues with it? anything else i need to know before i change it? suggestions on what else to change?
THANK YOU ALL.
p.s. i have a 2010 e550 with 90K and never changed the belt yet. it still looks good , but it would be nice to know for the future and anyone that is interested.
so my questions is , whats the average life on this Belt , and does a pully change neccessary too , or only if there are issues with it? anything else i need to know before i change it? suggestions on what else to change?
THANK YOU ALL.
p.s. i have a 2010 e550 with 90K and never changed the belt yet. it still looks good , but it would be nice to know for the future and anyone that is interested.
#2
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The poly vee belts are known for being long lasting. Even in heavy smog areas they show little signs of wear or cracking. Some problems with tensioner bearings and pulleys cause them to need replacement but otherwise they are pretty much bullet proof. That's why you didn't find much.
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#5
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personally, i just did my serpentine belt and idler pulleys on my moms c300 2010, gas; and it is worth doing immediately at 100k. dont wait. You can feel and hear the difference immediately. Also, leaving weak belts and pulleys can put strain on the vaccuum pump and other functions. Engine can also sometimes draw power from those accessories under full acceleration, especially when a/c is on full blast in the summer; Not to mention it runs like 5 accessories
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2010 E550 coupe W212
Hi All , yes i did search forums and couldnt really find anything for w212 specific (mostly w210 or w211 chassis)
so my questions is , whats the average life on this Belt , and does a pully change neccessary too , or only if there are issues with it? anything else i need to know before i change it? suggestions on what else to change?
THANK YOU ALL.
p.s. i have a 2010 e550 with 90K and never changed the belt yet. it still looks good , but it would be nice to know for the future and anyone that is interested.
so my questions is , whats the average life on this Belt , and does a pully change neccessary too , or only if there are issues with it? anything else i need to know before i change it? suggestions on what else to change?
THANK YOU ALL.
p.s. i have a 2010 e550 with 90K and never changed the belt yet. it still looks good , but it would be nice to know for the future and anyone that is interested.
#7
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Inspect, inspect, inspect.
Not being original owners, I can say for sure, but I think I had belts with 180k miles on them running just fine.
Aging belt will show crack on inner ribs, when strings showing outside call for immediate replacement.
So good quality belts last, while I had experience on W124 where I replaced belt showing lot of cracks with new one, who I bought at indy warehouse. (should be what professional use). So new belt show a string right away and turn into maze of strings about 30 miles later.
The old belt with cracks went back.
I am not in hurry in belt replacement, but carry spare and tools when I have aging belt under the hood. This way over the years I ended up with 5 belts in my garage that fit cars I no longer own.
Not being original owners, I can say for sure, but I think I had belts with 180k miles on them running just fine.
Aging belt will show crack on inner ribs, when strings showing outside call for immediate replacement.
So good quality belts last, while I had experience on W124 where I replaced belt showing lot of cracks with new one, who I bought at indy warehouse. (should be what professional use). So new belt show a string right away and turn into maze of strings about 30 miles later.
The old belt with cracks went back.
I am not in hurry in belt replacement, but carry spare and tools when I have aging belt under the hood. This way over the years I ended up with 5 belts in my garage that fit cars I no longer own.
Last edited by kajtek1; 03-27-2018 at 11:18 AM.
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#8
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2010 e550 p2
I forgot i started this thread
but good thing someone brought it up
, so i went ahead and got a continental elite belt , waiting for it to come i to install.
My current belt looks good still , but 120k miles on it make me wonder...so ill just replace it.
and yes i think i will order a tensioner pulley , and the question is.. is it also easy to replace or i would habe to take the tensioner out? Other pulleys look good.. just tge tensioner one looks a bit worn
but good thing someone brought it up
, so i went ahead and got a continental elite belt , waiting for it to come i to install.
My current belt looks good still , but 120k miles on it make me wonder...so ill just replace it.
and yes i think i will order a tensioner pulley , and the question is.. is it also easy to replace or i would habe to take the tensioner out? Other pulleys look good.. just tge tensioner one looks a bit worn
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Per my experience it is the top idler pulley that goes bad. Strange as being on top it should have less stress.
My 320 Bluetec has identical pulley at lower position, where working with more belt tension and more dirt- it was good, when top was "crispy"
Inspect before replacing.
My 320 Bluetec has identical pulley at lower position, where working with more belt tension and more dirt- it was good, when top was "crispy"
Inspect before replacing.
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2010 Mercedes E550 4 Matic
Hello,
I just recently purchased a 2010 Mercedes E550 4Matic. I had to get the thermostat replaced to get the car registered. The car runs great but when i pull in my garage and shut the car off if you go up front to the grill you can smell burning rubber. I have been told it might be an engine pulley. Do you think it could be the pulley in your photo?
Thanks
I just recently purchased a 2010 Mercedes E550 4Matic. I had to get the thermostat replaced to get the car registered. The car runs great but when i pull in my garage and shut the car off if you go up front to the grill you can smell burning rubber. I have been told it might be an engine pulley. Do you think it could be the pulley in your photo?
Thanks
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Take the belt off and spin the pulleys. Also turn everything else by hand. Any play, or obstruction indicate bearing going bad.
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#12
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Per my experience it is the top idler pulley that goes bad. Strange as being on top it should have less stress.
My 320 Bluetec has identical pulley at lower position, where working with more belt tension and more dirt- it was good, when top was "crispy"
Inspect before replacing.
My 320 Bluetec has identical pulley at lower position, where working with more belt tension and more dirt- it was good, when top was "crispy"
Inspect before replacing.
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2008 E350 4Matic, 2011 E350 4matic
For those that have the M272 engine, the design seems to be the same as the old one in the W211. I had to change the thermostat and pulley on the one in my W211 and not too long after I did the same in the W212. Rockauto had a kit for the W211 where you got the tensioner, both pulleys and the belt for $121, but that was for the W211 and they didn't offer it for the W212, but it looks like the only difference is that belt is a little shorter on the W212, but not by much, each brand that they have tends to vary by a few mm anyway. When I did both cars, both pulleys had some play in there. The M273 seems to have the same design and the same setup.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...440470&jsn=576
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...440470&jsn=576
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For those that have the M272 engine, the design seems to be the same as the old one in the W211. I had to change the thermostat and pulley on the one in my W211 and not too long after I did the same in the W212. Rockauto had a kit for the W211 where you got the tensioner, both pulleys and the belt for $121, but that was for the W211 and they didn't offer it for the W212, but it looks like the only difference is that belt is a little shorter on the W212, but not by much, each brand that they have tends to vary by a few mm anyway. When I did both cars, both pulleys had some play in there. The M273 seems to have the same design and the same setup.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...440470&jsn=576
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...440470&jsn=576
but the new one i got is 2400mm , i did a quick search online but couldn't get any good information about this.
yes rockauto rocks lol , also pelican parts has a kit
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/ADK0012P.htm?pn=ADK0012P-M21&catalog_description=Drive%20Belt%20Kit%20&SVSV SI=4873
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2008 E350 4Matic, 2011 E350 4matic
No idea, but maybe the tensioner would take up the extra slack? The one in the kit is 2404mm.
And the one from Pelican parts is the same kit, only it's about $80 more. If you buy the individual parts from rockauto, it comes out to about $20 more. They always have a 5% off discount code floating around so that usually takes care of the shipping and maybe a little more.
And the one from Pelican parts is the same kit, only it's about $80 more. If you buy the individual parts from rockauto, it comes out to about $20 more. They always have a 5% off discount code floating around so that usually takes care of the shipping and maybe a little more.
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No idea, but maybe the tensioner would take up the extra slack? The one in the kit is 2404mm.
And the one from Pelican parts is the same kit, only it's about $80 more. If you buy the individual parts from rockauto, it comes out to about $20 more. They always have a 5% off discount code floating around so that usually takes care of the shipping and maybe a little more.
And the one from Pelican parts is the same kit, only it's about $80 more. If you buy the individual parts from rockauto, it comes out to about $20 more. They always have a 5% off discount code floating around so that usually takes care of the shipping and maybe a little more.
but i just wanted to know for myself , kinda curious whats that about.
#21
I apologize for bringing up this old thread. I had a similar issue with my vehicle recently; I had a visible crack in my serpentine belt. I get a proper tool for the DIY then follow certain procedure on how to replace it. I came across an in-depth article that may be worth reading. Search for "Mercedes-Benz Serpentine Belt Replacement Guide on YOUCANIC" and you will see an article that goes over common causes and possible fixes. You can read about it yourself. I hope this information can assist someone else with a similar issue.