E-Class (W212) 2010 - 2016: E 350, E 550

2014 E350 4MATIC Brakes and Rotors

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Old 07-25-2018, 02:57 PM
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2012 E350
Exclamation 2014 E350 4MATIC Brakes and Rotors

Hey there everyone!

Car: 2014 E350 Sedan 4MATIC 62K miles.

It's time for me to replace my brakes and rotors. (Image attached of parts and prices - PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF THAT WAS A GOOD PRICE) Last time I was charged all together for labor, new brakes, rotors, and sensors was 1,179.00. This was after a 20% coupon was applied at the time. I see that if I buy my own parts and have someone else put them on, it could cut some cost. Just trying to see some recommendations you guys might have. I'm leaning towards the following below with links. Let me know if these will do. Thank you for any insight! It's gladly appreciated!



WHAT IM LOOKING TO BUY BELOW TO CUT COST:

Front Brakes and Rear Brakes
https://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brakes.jsp?make=Akebono&model=Euro+Ceramic+Pads&gr oup=Euro+Ceramic+Pads&partNum=EUR1342&autoMake=Mer cedes-Benz&autoModel=E350+4MATIC+Sedan&autoYear=2014&aut oModClar=
Front Rotors
https://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/...SABEgIeSPD_BwE
Rear Rotors
STILL TRYING TO FIND
Two Brake Sensors
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ch/2115401717/

Last edited by kwash703; 07-25-2018 at 03:00 PM.
Old 07-25-2018, 03:45 PM
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last time you was charged meaning in a diff. car?
Old 07-25-2018, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by raja777m
last time you was charged meaning in a diff. car?
No, I was meaning charging as in being charged for that (brakes/rotors) service on this vehicle.
Old 07-25-2018, 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by kwash703
No, I was meaning charging as in being charged for that (brakes/rotors) service on this vehicle.
You're at 62k miles and you're already on your second set of brake pad/rotors? Do you track the car? Ride the brakes? I'm at 33k and still on original brakes which have close to 50% life left.
Old 07-25-2018, 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by thenew3
You're at 62k miles and you're already on your second set of brake pad/rotors? Do you track the car? Ride the brakes? I'm at 33k and still on original brakes which have close to 50% life left.
No I don't track my car. I do a lot high way miles and traffic (jams)

Last time was changed at 42K last year around this time.
Old 07-25-2018, 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by kwash703
No I don't track my car. I do a lot high way miles and traffic (jams)

Last time was changed at 42K last year around this time.
wow so from 42k to 62k, in 20k miles you need new brakes again?
Old 07-25-2018, 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by thenew3
wow so from 42k to 62k, in 20k miles you need new brakes again?
That's what the safety inspection folks said My brakes and tires. I was able to get brand new tires yesterday.Haven't got the brakes and rotors yet.

They gave me a pink sticker because of this.
Old 07-25-2018, 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by kwash703
That's what the safety inspection folks said My brakes and tires. I was able to get brand new tires yesterday.Haven't got the brakes and rotors yet.

They gave me a pink sticker because of this.
That's pretty fast wear. My wife who rides her brakes all the time, and drives in stop and go traffic daily gets about 30k to 40k miles out of a set of brakes.

If your rotors aren't badly worn, you may be able to get away with just new pads. Although MB does recommend new rotors and pads at the same time.
Old 07-26-2018, 12:16 AM
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You could try and see if these guys are legit, they will replace parts you buy from them for normal wear and tear. In the long run you'd save a bunch of money :B

https://www.fcpeuro.com/page/lifetime-guarantee
Old 07-26-2018, 08:47 AM
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I'm at 60k and I'm on my 2nd set of brake pads and rotors. I got the car at 42k and the previous owner replaced them for after market ones which causes a squeaking noise over small speed bumbs in apartment complex or parking lots.
Old 07-26-2018, 10:28 AM
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Here's my experience with less expensive parts. I did away with drilled rotors and went to solid rotors as I find drilled rotors kind of useless on a daily driver. Since the date of post I have had zero issues with these components.
Certainly buy what you prefer, this is just the route I took.
Mud's Brakes
Old 07-26-2018, 10:41 AM
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My 2 cents

I think you hold the record for brake replacement. I have over 50K of city/highway mileage and the brakes look like they are good for 20K more. When in heavy traffic, do you jackrabbit and then stop hard and short? Has to be something about your driving style.
My son recently put Akebono on his BMW and he likes them but they did not come with wear sensors.
6 months ago I replaced my Audi's brakes with EBC and I am VERY happy. Initial bite is better than OEM, very low dust, no fade, and no noise. I got the slotted rotors but they also sell solid and combo slotted/cross-drilled. I got Red Stuff pads. EBC has their own web site and has sales often. They also match prices on Amazon which are usually much cheaper. So look on Amazon and price the parts and then call EBC to match the price. That way you will be sure you are not getting fake parts. Also the EBC pads have the wear sensor. I've tried Mintex Red, Hawk HPS, and a few others in the past 10 years and EBC are the best by far for street use.

Last edited by VegasE; 07-26-2018 at 10:50 AM.
Old 07-26-2018, 10:48 AM
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Agree on cross-drilled

Originally Posted by Mud
Here's my experience with less expensive parts. I did away with drilled rotors and went to solid rotors as I find drilled rotors kind of useless on a daily driver. Since the date of post I have had zero issues with these components.
Certainly buy what you prefer, this is just the route I took.
Mud's Brakes
Cross-drilled and slotted really not needed on a daily driver non-track car, but I like the look. You need to be very careful when buying cross-drilled rotors. Some cheap web sites just buy solid rotors and then have Joe's machine shop drill some holes in them.
Old 07-26-2018, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by VegasE
Cross-drilled and slotted really not needed on a daily driver non-track car, but I like the look. You need to be very careful when buying cross-drilled rotors. Some cheap web sites just buy solid rotors and then have Joe's machine shop drill some holes in them.
You're exactly right - if you're going to get the drilled versions, at least consider cast-in-place holes (with chamfers) version. I think Zimmerman are made this way? As you mentioned the post-drilled rotors often are not done very well.
Old 07-27-2018, 01:52 PM
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There are many numerous 'lines' of parts when you're buying replacements. From it'll do, to good quality. If you want it to last ensure it's top line, or a well known brand. If the previous owner did the brakes shortly before selling, it's likely they were the cheapest of the cheap. (it wouldn't make much sense to do otherwise).

As both mentioned already in this thread, I've had good experiences with Akebono's on my previous car. EBC's I haven't used personally but have always heard good things as well. I've also had good experiences with Extreme Stop rotors.

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