Top_Speed1

I ended up going with Vladimir and included the Eco off programming.

the combo deal incl shipping was 22,250 RUB (which PayPal converts to $315). I know it’s a lot, but that Eco-on (especially for a diesel) is not the best idea in the world, and, has always been a pet peeve of mine since owning this awesome car.

...patiently waiting

Left Coast Geek

I've heard this, and the 2016 I just bought has that on the dealer screen, yet Vladmere says Mercedes XEntry doesn't show my car as ever having been upgraded, so I dunno..

Top_Speed1

You could take a chance, buy the OBD module. If it didn’t take, then you could always go to your dealer and get the Comand update. Just remember Vladimir doesn’t take returns, so going to the dealer would be your only option at that point. And, you may never get to that point either with your dealer screen already displaying line 11.

On my Vladimir acceptance/clearance... he initially told me I had to get the dealer update. Did, then waited almost a week (figured I’d wait for any update lag w his log reader). He immediately responded (then) with a go ahead and order.

Left Coast Geek

thats pretty much what I'm doing, I've already ordered the module. My indie mechanic here in town actually has the full star system so he might be able to do the firmware upgrade and I wouldn't need to weasel it out of the dealer in the next county

FWIW, my car has a ship date of 2016-03-11 which is newer than most of what I've seen folks report.

Top_Speed1

With that Mfgr date, I believe you have it... or the thinking of the “High_CY15_9” does not mean the date, but I believe it does.

If you really want to know, find a site, preferably free, that with the VIN input it shows additional settings, like your Comand Version.

Left Coast Geek

hmm. I actually have an XEntry "Parts Information" account, which has helped immensely in maintaining my prior fleet of 3 old w124's, but that only lists the data card information, not firmware versions

DFWdude

Check your March 2016 Data Card to see if it has a HW code for Comand HU 5S1. I believe that code refers to firmware update version High_CY15_9, which would explain why you already have the Carplay Volume readout.

Most of the 2015 builds had 531 COMAND APS NTG5/NTG5.5 (pre-upgrade), but yours is much newer (2016-03-11), so should have the Sept 2015 update for a car built after Sept, 2015.

Vladimir should be able to verify this. It makes me wonder if the W212 wagons were built after the sedan run had completed?

Left Coast Geek

my data card says...

LILBENZ230

You don't have the codes for smartphone integration, but like others were saying.. with that production date, and line 11 showing, your car was likely built this way and therefore wouldn't show it needed to be updated.

Left Coast Geek

yeah, thats my thought.

I wish there was some OBD/CAN diag apps for these cars that could tell us this sort of thing, like firmware revisions and so forth. I have a 2002 Ford diesel truck, and there's an application Forscan, and a phone app Forscan Lite, which gives you ALL the manufacturer diagnostics and versions and stuff, not just the regular/generic emissions codes.

Left Coast Geek

ok, my independent mercedes mechanic has an XEntry cart, so today I had him plug it in and scan the COMAND HU5s1 for firmware and indeed, I have High_CY15_9 already ...

Got vladimir's dongle yesterday. I ran through the programming sequence, it completed saying Success: Carplay V1 ... rebooted the COMAND again for good luck, but I can't for the life of me get my phone recognized as anything other than a generic MTD device. of course the phone works on bluetooth for both phone calls and BT audio.

My phone is a Google Pixel 3A, with the latest (Dec 5, 2020) release of Android 11, and the latest Android Auto 5.9.604634-release ....

UPDATE, a couple hours later (cuz I never hit POST)...

ok, started over with my phone, discovered the Android AUto menu under PHONE rather than under MEDIA, and that actually seems to have linked, except Android Auto on my phone never showed it linked to the car, AND the car screen woudl just go BLACK. and once I got there I couldnt' seleect any MEDIA devices at all. ended up having to reset the whole COMAND mess, and reset my radio stations etc, ugh.

Left Coast Geek

ok, tried *again* from scratch.

re-ran the programmign cycle, and this time it completed with "Factory", and yes, android auto was gone, cool.

so I ran it again. did the full long programming cycle, finished saying Carplay V1 ... same problem link up my phone and get blank screen on the dashboard
ran it another time, did a short cycle, and said Carplay V2, but same results.
3rd run reverted to Factory.

Left Coast Geek

I wonder if OTHER modules need updating.

DFWdude

There are several internet postings concerning specific issues with Google Pixel 3and AA. Here's one... https://support.google.com/androidau.../5279391?hl=en

As for not being able to select MEDIA... I posted above about this, and found this inability to call up MEDIA inputs is not allowed in AA. Pity, but there are work arounds as noted in posts #328, 346, 348, 350.

Also, keep in mind that with Android 10 and newer, Android Auto is built within the Android 10 operating system, which can be confusing as there is no inherent icon for AA on your phone. I wonder if some of the blank screen issues are related to this. Also, you must have a high quality USB cable, else AA connection can be inconsistent.

In addition, I have installed "Android Auto for Phone Screens" on my phone. It runs independently from the internal app, and I sometimes use it instead for quick starting of AA separate from the USB connection. This works well for short trip nav.

Left Coast Geek

that particular link appears to have been related to a flakey USB cable, and indeed, I've dealt with those before. I had several 6 ft long Cable Matters USB C to C cables I was using for charging USB C things in my RV, and 2 of 4 have gone flakey such that they only charge occasionally, so I've tossed those.

in the case of this car, I'm using brand new Amazon Basic brand 3 foot USB A to USB C cables rated for USB 3 data rates as well as 21 watt charging (phone uses max 18W but the USB jack on the car is I believe only 5 watts)

Top_Speed1

Got a connection issue?

I’ve loaded Vladimir’s AA/CP, went up to working... 21, then said CP Successful. I now have AA and CP on the revolving screen. When I rotate to CP, hookup USB/Lightening cable to USB2 in armrest, it doesn’t recognize that anything is connected. I tried USB1 also, and different cables. Still displays nothing connected.

Help please, what did I miss?

Top_Speed1

Trouble shooting this...

When I plug my iPhone in to either arm rest USB Port, I’m not getting any power (another words the charge indicator on the phone is not engaging). I’m sure there (hopefully) is supposed to be the typical 5V with either port, correct?

if so, I may have to go fuse hunting.?

Left Coast Geek

For what it's worth, both my ports charge our phones, but they don't do rapid charge just normal slow charge. USB comes in many different profiles. My phones are usb-c and can take up to 18 Watts using the new USB PD power specification, but I think these ports are only around five Watts, 5 volts at one amp.

It's possible your Apple cords are bad, I've had my share of flaky USB cords in the past.

DFWdude

Again, you must use better quality USB cables to make a connection. The cable that comes with your phone is fine when new, however may not be up to snuff by the time you ask it to work with AA/ACP.

While you are shopping for USB data cables, think ahead and get one with heavier duty cable shielding, etc. Constant plugging/unplugging, cord dangling vibration, and closing the console covers on the cable itself will likely take a toll on its functionality over time.

I'm no expert on USB cables, but I've bought ANKER brand in the past, and they always work, have heavier duty cable construction, etc. The larger diameter cabling does pose a challenge... you have to find just the right area between the console and console cover to feed the cable and still close the console lid.

Here's a link to the cables I bought. Anker makes them in all connection types. These are USB A to USB C...

DFWdude

I'd try some compressed air in the USB sockets, to be sure there is no debris blocking connections. Then look into fuses...

LILBENZ230

I've been using the standard Apple lightning cable that came with my phone since I unlocked this feature. No issues, and the charge rate is acceptable.

Top_Speed1

Good tips, thanks guys 👍

I used 2 brand new MTI certified cables, that work as high speed certified. I will retrieve my oem cable however and try that. To note, I replaced the ashtray lighter socket w a dual 3.0 usb. It’s not the cheap pop-in type, but the real deal socket. It works great suppling my MagSafe vent mounted wireless charger(s)... wife has her side as well. So usb 3.0 is 15w, as AxV=W. I fully understand the armrest as usb 1.0 and it should suffice as I will just be plugging in my wireless car-play dongle in this eventually anyways. For now, just going corded of course to get it rolling.

so....


‘Refreshing everyone that I did 2 of Vladimir’s updates to the Comand (AA/CP & ECO Over-ride). In some research online, it has been said that I may have to reboot the Comand with a power depress of 5 seconds. Anyone heard of this before? I have both of Vlad’s OBD programs into the Comand and I don’t want to screw them up (he puts a limit on how many times you can re-install and after the CP, it said 0 remaining.

Top_Speed1

After rebooting the Comand manually, I now have 5V power at both USB ports.

But, still no CP sensing using port 2. I have pulled out the brand new oem cable that came from my iPhone 12 Pro Max. That brings to mind, is my phone too new for this CP version? My wife has the iPhone 11, when she returns I might try that one to see if it will make the CP handshake.

LILBENZ230

I have an iPhone 12 mini and no issues using CarPlay in my 2016.

Top_Speed1

yeah I tried my wife’s IPhone 11 w same results.

Seems like USB port 2 is non responsive. This is supposedly the port that is controlled by the Comand. So Vladimir wanted a video of this, I made a basic one below, on the passenger seat you’ll see all the different cables I’ve used lol.