How do you disconnect this connector?
#1
Super Member
Thread Starter
How do you disconnect this connector?
It's obvious that I broke off the tab that was supposed to slide out (?). I don't want to force anything and am looking for some help with how to get this off. These little buggers are really difficult. Aside from this one, what's the trick in general? (No, I wasn't trying to yank it off with the pliers. I gently put those on there to try to pull up on it while I pushed in on the tab, but that doesn't seem to be working.)
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
The tab under the locking tab you broke has to squeeze in, then pull it off. I find, often squeezing the lock tab and pushing it in slightly first helps it release, then pull it off.
#3
Super Member
Thread Starter
Update - Well I was able to squeeze the tab and get it off, but apparently I broke it in a major way. The internal wires had come out of the housing, and when I tried pushing them back in, sheared off. Fortunately, my local dealer has a a2711500156 (Camshaft Magnet Wiring Harness) which is a separate piece, for $10. WHEW! I don't have to replace the whole wiring harness. But the good news is I do how to remove this type of connector now!
#5
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Looks like you had a piece missing from the beginning
It is pretty obvious that locking wedge is facing the camera and you have signs like screwdriver was used in the past to lift the tab over the wedge.
By pressing the side tabs, you unlock the cover from the main plug.
I hope new plug will make it all clear.
It is pretty obvious that locking wedge is facing the camera and you have signs like screwdriver was used in the past to lift the tab over the wedge.
By pressing the side tabs, you unlock the cover from the main plug.
I hope new plug will make it all clear.
#6
Super Member
Thread Starter
Looks like you had a piece missing from the beginning
It is pretty obvious that locking wedge is facing the camera and you have signs like screwdriver was used in the past to lift the tab over the wedge.
By pressing the side tabs, you unlock the cover from the main plug.
I hope new plug will make it all clear.
It is pretty obvious that locking wedge is facing the camera and you have signs like screwdriver was used in the past to lift the tab over the wedge.
By pressing the side tabs, you unlock the cover from the main plug.
I hope new plug will make it all clear.
#7
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
When I was replacing 642 engine, it had maze of sensors and plugs on them.
I recall at least 5 different types of locks on them. Good thing I keep my engine clean , so I was able to see the locking tabs and I actually like mechanical puzzles. The trickiest were where you had to pull the tabs up and then pull the plug. Each plug comes with good resistance from the seal, so you always wonder if that is tab, or seal holding.
Puzzles they are.
I recall at least 5 different types of locks on them. Good thing I keep my engine clean , so I was able to see the locking tabs and I actually like mechanical puzzles. The trickiest were where you had to pull the tabs up and then pull the plug. Each plug comes with good resistance from the seal, so you always wonder if that is tab, or seal holding.
Puzzles they are.
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#8
Super Member
Thread Starter
When I was replacing 642 engine, it had maze of sensors and plugs on them.
I recall at least 5 different types of locks on them. Good thing I keep my engine clean , so I was able to see the locking tabs and I actually like mechanical puzzles. The trickiest were where you had to pull the tabs up and then pull the plug. Each plug comes with good resistance from the seal, so you always wonder if that is tab, or seal holding.
Puzzles they are.
I recall at least 5 different types of locks on them. Good thing I keep my engine clean , so I was able to see the locking tabs and I actually like mechanical puzzles. The trickiest were where you had to pull the tabs up and then pull the plug. Each plug comes with good resistance from the seal, so you always wonder if that is tab, or seal holding.
Puzzles they are.