Wierd Keyless Go Problem
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Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Southern US
2010 E550, 273 Engine: 2012 S550, 278 Engine
Ok, still fighting with this 6 months later. Car has been at MB Manhattan (MB Factory Store) for this 10 times now and they are still scratching their heads. The independent shop I was using threw in the towel after a few weeks of getting nowhere. Dealer replaced the front KG antenna (throwing codes) and Central Gateway (not throwing codes itself, but the devices connected to it complain about "implausible data" in their own codes). No effect. Notably, the KG never throws a code, but it is always affected. The other symptoms either appear or not, seemingly dependent only on the mood of the car at the time and even the KG symptoms themselves can vary.
Key fobs aren't the issue. They can't turn on the radio or wipers. Doesn't matter if they are sense-able by the vehicle or not, the symptoms will still present themselves without the key in range of the car (wipers go to top of stroke over night with the car a block away and the key behind a 2' thick stone wall). Also doesn't matter if I try to open it with the door handle or the key fob buttons. My phone is also no where near the key when I attempt to open it. Dealer also pulled all the carpets to check for any water leaks or signs of flood damage. No evidence of water found.
I've been taking videos lately for the dealer, because of course it never occurs when they have it, though I've been dropping it off every Monday and picking it up every Friday for the last 8 weeks (10 visits for this complaint in total). They are here: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/yl7ud94oc...1MVVWU4na?dl=0. If you watch a few of these, you'll see the variation in the symptoms and probably laugh at its antics. I'm not finding it so amusing myself anymore, but I certainly can see the humor in it.
Symptoms include:
CG and front KG antenna have already been replaced. If anyone has some thoughts on what to try next, I'm interested in hearing them. Though there are no codes for it present, I'm probably going to have them swap out the KG module as I've already come to the conclusion we're going to have to replace some otherwise perfectly functioning parts just to find the problem, but there's a lot of expensive, non-returnable stuff in there to try just throwing parts at it hoping to get lucky.
Key fobs aren't the issue. They can't turn on the radio or wipers. Doesn't matter if they are sense-able by the vehicle or not, the symptoms will still present themselves without the key in range of the car (wipers go to top of stroke over night with the car a block away and the key behind a 2' thick stone wall). Also doesn't matter if I try to open it with the door handle or the key fob buttons. My phone is also no where near the key when I attempt to open it. Dealer also pulled all the carpets to check for any water leaks or signs of flood damage. No evidence of water found.
I've been taking videos lately for the dealer, because of course it never occurs when they have it, though I've been dropping it off every Monday and picking it up every Friday for the last 8 weeks (10 visits for this complaint in total). They are here: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/yl7ud94oc...1MVVWU4na?dl=0. If you watch a few of these, you'll see the variation in the symptoms and probably laugh at its antics. I'm not finding it so amusing myself anymore, but I certainly can see the humor in it.
Symptoms include:
- · Does not unlock car with door handle or key fob buttons
- · Unlocks car, but then won’t recognize that the key is in the vehicle and won’t allow the car to start
- · Turns on the COMAND system display and other functions related to the COMAND screen and audio without unlocking the door (it shouldn’t turn this on ever). COMAND turns back off as soon as you open the driver’s door from the outside with the hard key – as if I was exiting the vehicle instead of entering it.
- · Unlocks and opens the rear cargo door without allowing you to unlock the rest of the vehicle after many attempts with the door handle or key fob buttons while still allowing the tailgate to operate normally.
- · Allows you in the car with either the door handle or key fob, but may or may not allow the car to start with either the push button or inserting the key fob.
- · Allows you in the car with either the door handle or key AND allows the car to start, but will not select any gear for the transmission. Remains in Park.
- · Decides key is not in the car after 90 minutes of Interstate 95 driving, forcing me to pull off the road to reset the system by turning the car off, opening and closing the driver’s door, and then restarting the car (only happened once).
- · Several combinations of these symptoms have been seen (e.g. unlocks car, turns on radio, but then won’t go into gear once started).
- · If the switch for the rain-sensing wipers is left in the 1st or 2nd intermittent position over night, and if the Keyless Go symptoms occur, then the wipers will be parked at the top of their stroke when I come out to the car as if I had shut the car off before the wipers finished their stroke.
CG and front KG antenna have already been replaced. If anyone has some thoughts on what to try next, I'm interested in hearing them. Though there are no codes for it present, I'm probably going to have them swap out the KG module as I've already come to the conclusion we're going to have to replace some otherwise perfectly functioning parts just to find the problem, but there's a lot of expensive, non-returnable stuff in there to try just throwing parts at it hoping to get lucky.
But, what I have learned about multiple issues with electronic components in cars is that a grounding problem can be behind it all. Loose / flaky ground wire in the module(s) affected could be the culprit. have your dealer or the independent shop specifically looked at the grounding points? That is where I would focus after all that has been done so far.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 461
Likes: 158
From: Phoenix, AZ
2016 E350 Sport 2WD
Modern cars communicate between the various modules on LAN lines (not sure what MB names their communications system(s)) and anything tied to any module or circuit can bring that LAN down, and when the failure to communicate happens, you have a problem, or many problems. Since your problems are repeatable in the sense that they happen on a fairly consistent basis, that would allow someone to monitor and record those LAN communications and see when they're gong down and then to find the culprit. Of course, changing parts is a very poor way to discover the cause of the problem, much as if you went to your doctor complaining of not feeling well and they decided to start transplanting various parts and pieces of your body until you felt better!
I would think that MB Manhattan has all the right equipment, technology and trained techs to know what to test and has the equipment to do the testing. I certainly hope they aren't just changing parts hoping to find a BINGO.
I would think that MB Manhattan has all the right equipment, technology and trained techs to know what to test and has the equipment to do the testing. I certainly hope they aren't just changing parts hoping to find a BINGO.
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 15,901
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From: North Scottsdale, AZ
'71 Pinto
If the only dealership in the country owned and operated by MB has not already done so, request Shop Foreman or Lead Tech open a PTSS case for MB technical support.
Last edited by konigstiger; May 6, 2019 at 02:24 PM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 20
Likes: 3
2011 E350 Sport Wagon
An example of the kinds of codes it's generating is from the 4/20 video:
Modules with faults:
DSM : SHIFT MODULE (A80)Part no. 005 446 18 101 Fault A26600(B226600)[Stored] Event: The drive authorisation data are implausible.EHNR212 : Electronic level controlPart no. 212 545 07 321 Fault C44700(U044700)[Stored]Event: Implausible data were received from the central gateway.
Yup, the transmission didn't shift out of park and I did hear the rear suspension pump for the 2nd time in 6 months when the car was at a normal ride height. The first time was when the temp dropped from 32 to -4 in one day back in January. What's just as notable though is what it didn't say -- COMAND and the wipers came on when I touched the car - no codes. I don't mention it in the video, but though KG unlocked the car, it would not lock it again with the fob button, so KG is affected but no code. When I get in it, the whole thing acts like I've just shut it down and am exiting the vehicle.
Turn it back off, open and close the door, turn it back on and it's gone. Wait 2-3 days and try again...
Maybe we're looking in the wrong direction. Do you suppose these guys are still available?
Last edited by maddenma; May 6, 2019 at 11:20 PM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 20
Likes: 3
2011 E350 Sport Wagon
Well, here we are 11 months later and still no cure. Clearly not just a Keyless Go issue, as COMAND, Instrument Panel, Trans Select, and Engine Start are all affected with an occasional occurrence of the instrument panel or COMAND turning on in the middle of the night, flattening the battery -- which significantly elevates its importance to me.
The other thing I've discovered since my last post on this is that the problem is temperature sensitive. After May of last year, it largely stopped, starting back up again in October when the temp started dropping below 60F at night. Explains why the dealer couldn't replicate the problem until I had the mechanic commute to work in it for a month. Once they did that they no longer had any suggestions that this was operator error.
At this point the Central Gateway, Keyless Go Module, and both KG antennas have been replaced. Main Battery has been replaced twice now due to "voltages all over the place" -- whatever that actually means in detail.
I'm starting to think that perhaps this is related to the auxiliary battery or the accessory power relay. I've had no warning notice on the dash about the aux battery, but when I pulled it this morning I noticed that I still had no warning light with it removed. Should I have gotten one?
These are cheap things compared to the previous guesses MB Manhattan has made. They also don't require programming them into the vehicle, so I'm planning to replace them as a wild guess. While I can find references to the relay and a part number, there doesn't seem to be one in the rear SAM of my vehicle where various charts seem to have suggested it should be. Anyone know for sure where this is on a 2011 S212? Which SAM and what position?
The other thing I've discovered since my last post on this is that the problem is temperature sensitive. After May of last year, it largely stopped, starting back up again in October when the temp started dropping below 60F at night. Explains why the dealer couldn't replicate the problem until I had the mechanic commute to work in it for a month. Once they did that they no longer had any suggestions that this was operator error.
At this point the Central Gateway, Keyless Go Module, and both KG antennas have been replaced. Main Battery has been replaced twice now due to "voltages all over the place" -- whatever that actually means in detail.
I'm starting to think that perhaps this is related to the auxiliary battery or the accessory power relay. I've had no warning notice on the dash about the aux battery, but when I pulled it this morning I noticed that I still had no warning light with it removed. Should I have gotten one?
These are cheap things compared to the previous guesses MB Manhattan has made. They also don't require programming them into the vehicle, so I'm planning to replace them as a wild guess. While I can find references to the relay and a part number, there doesn't seem to be one in the rear SAM of my vehicle where various charts seem to have suggested it should be. Anyone know for sure where this is on a 2011 S212? Which SAM and what position?
Last edited by maddenma; Apr 9, 2020 at 06:57 PM.
Member
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 160
Likes: 66
From: Lake Stevens, Washington
2014 E350 & 2017 GLE 400
Well, here we are 11 months later and still no cure. Clearly not just a Keyless Go issue, as COMAND, Instrument Panel, Trans Select, and Engine Start are all affected with an occasional occurrence of the instrument panel or COMAND turning on in the middle of the night, flattening the battery -- which significantly elevates its importance to me.
The other thing I've discovered since my last post on this is that the problem is temperature sensitive. After May of last year, it largely stopped, starting back up again in October when the temp started dropping below 60F at night.
At this point the Central Gateway, Keyless Go Module, and both KG antennas have been replaced. Main Battery has been replaced twice now due to "voltages all over the place" -- whatever that actually means in detail.
I'm starting to think that perhaps this is related to the auxiliary battery or the accessory power relay. I've had no warning notice on the dash about the aux battery, but when I pulled it this morning I noticed that I still had no warning light with it removed. Should I have gotten one?
These are cheap things compared to the previous guesses MB Manhattan has made. Also, don't require programming them into the vehicle, so I'm planning to replace them as a wild guess. While I can find references to the relay and a part number, there doesn't seem to be one in the rear SAM of my vehicle where various charts seem to have suggested it should be. Anyone know for sure where this is on a 2011 S212? Which SAM and what position?
The other thing I've discovered since my last post on this is that the problem is temperature sensitive. After May of last year, it largely stopped, starting back up again in October when the temp started dropping below 60F at night.
At this point the Central Gateway, Keyless Go Module, and both KG antennas have been replaced. Main Battery has been replaced twice now due to "voltages all over the place" -- whatever that actually means in detail.
I'm starting to think that perhaps this is related to the auxiliary battery or the accessory power relay. I've had no warning notice on the dash about the aux battery, but when I pulled it this morning I noticed that I still had no warning light with it removed. Should I have gotten one?
These are cheap things compared to the previous guesses MB Manhattan has made. Also, don't require programming them into the vehicle, so I'm planning to replace them as a wild guess. While I can find references to the relay and a part number, there doesn't seem to be one in the rear SAM of my vehicle where various charts seem to have suggested it should be. Anyone know for sure where this is on a 2011 S212? Which SAM and what position?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 20
Likes: 3
2011 E350 Sport Wagon
Just to close this thread out with the final cause...
After 3 years of trying to figure this out, and >$4k with MB Manhattan (factory-owned store in NYC) replacing front and rear antennas, media gateway, main battery (twice), keyless go module, and several recoding/updates to various bits, the problem still persisted. Again, only when the outside temp was cold. Only once I actually got to see it in the act of causing the failure. Car was parked and cold. I happened look in the car's direction when every exterior light suddenly flashed on an off again in a couple milliseconds. It was literally over in a flash, but the result was that the dash came on, COMAND screen started up, wipers raised to their vertical position. Had I not seen it happen, the battery would have been dead when I came back out, with only the wipers signalling that anything had happened. Lucky catch. I started to think that this might be something with the ignition switch itself, but didn't have time to pursue that theory. A few days later, I had an unusually extended bout with trying to get the vehicle to recognize the key. After 5 attempts, the vehicle told me to REMOVE START BUTTON AND INSERT KEY.
Yup. Head slapping moment right there... I had pulled it out before on demand, but always replaced it the next time I got in the car. After leaving it out it's been 5 months since the slightest difficulty with it. A $50, apparently electrically inert, plastic button.
Assuming there's no wireless batteryless chip in that START button, it's got to be something with that switch. I may fix it, I may not at this point. I can insert that key a whole bunch of times for the $1000+ that switch is going to cost to replace, so I may never confirm this for certain, but it's really clear where the trouble was. Just thought someone with a similar issue may want to look at the ignition switch before yanking keyless go modules and other very expensive bits. Or just pull and leave out the START button....
After 3 years of trying to figure this out, and >$4k with MB Manhattan (factory-owned store in NYC) replacing front and rear antennas, media gateway, main battery (twice), keyless go module, and several recoding/updates to various bits, the problem still persisted. Again, only when the outside temp was cold. Only once I actually got to see it in the act of causing the failure. Car was parked and cold. I happened look in the car's direction when every exterior light suddenly flashed on an off again in a couple milliseconds. It was literally over in a flash, but the result was that the dash came on, COMAND screen started up, wipers raised to their vertical position. Had I not seen it happen, the battery would have been dead when I came back out, with only the wipers signalling that anything had happened. Lucky catch. I started to think that this might be something with the ignition switch itself, but didn't have time to pursue that theory. A few days later, I had an unusually extended bout with trying to get the vehicle to recognize the key. After 5 attempts, the vehicle told me to REMOVE START BUTTON AND INSERT KEY.
Yup. Head slapping moment right there... I had pulled it out before on demand, but always replaced it the next time I got in the car. After leaving it out it's been 5 months since the slightest difficulty with it. A $50, apparently electrically inert, plastic button.
Assuming there's no wireless batteryless chip in that START button, it's got to be something with that switch. I may fix it, I may not at this point. I can insert that key a whole bunch of times for the $1000+ that switch is going to cost to replace, so I may never confirm this for certain, but it's really clear where the trouble was. Just thought someone with a similar issue may want to look at the ignition switch before yanking keyless go modules and other very expensive bits. Or just pull and leave out the START button....
Last edited by maddenma; Apr 22, 2021 at 10:20 PM.
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,695
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From: Dallas-Ft.Worth,TX
2016 E350 Sport
JA few days later, I had an unusually extended bout with trying to get the vehicle to recognize the key. After 5 attempts, the vehicle told me to REMOVE START BUTTON AND INSERT KEY.
Yup. Head slapping moment right there... I had pulled it out before on demand, but always replaced it the next time I got in the car. After leaving it out it's been 5 months since the slightest difficulty with it. A $50, apparently electrically inert, plastic button.
Assuming there's no wireless batteryless chip in that START button, it's got to be something with that switch. I may fix it, I may not at this point. I can insert that key a whole bunch of times for the $1000+ that switch is going to cost to replace, so I may never confirm this for certain, but it's really clear where the trouble was. Just thought someone with a similar issue may want to look at the ignition switch before yanking keyless go modules and other very expensive bits. Or just pull and leave out the START button....
Yup. Head slapping moment right there... I had pulled it out before on demand, but always replaced it the next time I got in the car. After leaving it out it's been 5 months since the slightest difficulty with it. A $50, apparently electrically inert, plastic button.
Assuming there's no wireless batteryless chip in that START button, it's got to be something with that switch. I may fix it, I may not at this point. I can insert that key a whole bunch of times for the $1000+ that switch is going to cost to replace, so I may never confirm this for certain, but it's really clear where the trouble was. Just thought someone with a similar issue may want to look at the ignition switch before yanking keyless go modules and other very expensive bits. Or just pull and leave out the START button....
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Joined: May 2012
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From: Pepper Pike Ohio
24 GLS580 '23 E450 4matic 12 E350 4Matic
I have purchased three cars from MB Manhattan, but only had one service performed there, they are supposed to be the best, apparently they can be stumped as well, does sound like an intermittent short, My car locks and unlocks with the key fob button regardless of how it was locked or unlocked previously, 
My '07 S550 would flash the drivers side mirror turn signal in the garage at night, for absolutely no reason, Sometimes I would walk past my '03 S500 in the garage at night and the passenger inner door handle LED was on, never figured out either, these however were just minor annoyances, yours is more of an issue certainly.
My '07 S550 would flash the drivers side mirror turn signal in the garage at night, for absolutely no reason, Sometimes I would walk past my '03 S500 in the garage at night and the passenger inner door handle LED was on, never figured out either, these however were just minor annoyances, yours is more of an issue certainly.Last edited by pierrejoliat; Apr 23, 2021 at 08:53 AM.
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'11 E350, '11 E550, '98 M3, '95 E320
Regarding the KG button, I assumed it "worked" like the key fob in that radio waves between the receiver/transmitter are what "power" communication. Expect that with a regular FOB the communication is for authentication/drive authorization and with the KG button it only signals which ignition position (i.e., I/II/start). The authorization for KG comes from the multiple antennas within the vehicle communicating with the key fob. Wheres non-KG there's only 1 "antenna" within the EZS which requires the key to be inserted.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2012
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From: Pepper Pike Ohio
24 GLS580 '23 E450 4matic 12 E350 4Matic
I have both and I prefer putting the key in the dash, my wife likes the keyless go or I would have popped the button out years ago.
I agree with BMW, sounds like it could be multiple issues. the fact that it happens mostly in cold temps is perplexing as well. Still, seems the ignition switch might be the issue.
I agree with BMW, sounds like it could be multiple issues. the fact that it happens mostly in cold temps is perplexing as well. Still, seems the ignition switch might be the issue.
Last edited by pierrejoliat; Apr 23, 2021 at 09:48 AM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 20
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2011 E350 Sport Wagon
Yeah, there was a 2nd issue with the Distronic Cruise Control's main radar unit behind the grill throwing all manner of under and over voltage power-related codes, which in turn led them to believe they were somehow related and that the battery was the culprit. That's the reason for the main battery replacement twice. The codes it were throwing were clearly masking the basic problem, but had nothing at all related to the timing of the symptoms, so I replaced that module a year ago after the 2nd battery swap, and the radar codes have been quiet since, though the KG issues remained until I pulled the button and left it out. MB Manhattan hasn't seen the car since I did that, as they were shut down like everyone else until fairly recently. If I replace the switch, they'll get to hear about it, of course. Has to be coded into the car.
Regarding the button, I dissected mine with a pair of vice grips to see what was in it. it's just two pieces of plastic sliding past each other with two pins on the bottom that push on something in the switch when you press it. There are no active components that I could find, which makes that $50 button seem a bit pricey even though it's one of the cheapest things on the car. I may try replacing the button with a new one once the weather gets cold again to see what happens, but there doesn't seem to be a point to doing that for a part that's strictly mechanical in operation for an electrical problem. It strikes me that the button may be pushing some contacts too close together and some sort of static charge builds up in the switch and jumps across the contacts, waking up the other modules briefly and putting them into some wierd half-on/half-off state, but who knows. In any case, I've finally isolated it down to the root cause.
Regarding the button, I dissected mine with a pair of vice grips to see what was in it. it's just two pieces of plastic sliding past each other with two pins on the bottom that push on something in the switch when you press it. There are no active components that I could find, which makes that $50 button seem a bit pricey even though it's one of the cheapest things on the car. I may try replacing the button with a new one once the weather gets cold again to see what happens, but there doesn't seem to be a point to doing that for a part that's strictly mechanical in operation for an electrical problem. It strikes me that the button may be pushing some contacts too close together and some sort of static charge builds up in the switch and jumps across the contacts, waking up the other modules briefly and putting them into some wierd half-on/half-off state, but who knows. In any case, I've finally isolated it down to the root cause.
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 12,214
Likes: 6,898
From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
sanitization...
Modern cars communicate between the various modules on LAN lines (not sure what MB names their communications system(s)) and anything tied to any module or circuit can bring that LAN down, and when the failure to communicate happens, you have a problem, or many problems. Since your problems are repeatable in the sense that they happen on a fairly consistent basis, that would allow someone to monitor and record those LAN communications and see when they're gong down and then to find the culprit. Of course, changing parts is a very poor way to discover the cause of the problem, much as if you went to your doctor complaining of not feeling well and they decided to start transplanting various parts and pieces of your body until you felt better!
I would think that MB Manhattan has all the right equipment, technology and trained techs to know what to test and has the equipment to do the testing. I certainly hope they aren't just changing parts hoping to find a BINGO.
I would think that MB Manhattan has all the right equipment, technology and trained techs to know what to test and has the equipment to do the testing. I certainly hope they aren't just changing parts hoping to find a BINGO.
Well of course my MY'14-E came with a sick KG that the dealer "could never reproduce"... so I was forced to study this wonderful KG design with a sick implementation.
Before I get in further details, let me point you to *your* solution:
become proficient in the TSB's for your VIN and use a scanner to gain insight on disfunctional modules.
The last step is to get firmware updates flashed in defective modules (KG, Doors, ...).
In case you prefer saving time, bring all your main modules to latest release and be done with other known integration bugs.
Keyless-Go is a brilliant design that leverages CAN communications to get things done. It involves 4x door modules, trunk controller, ignition switch... over separate networks all accessed through the weak CENTRAL GATEWAY.
In the case of my E350 the 4x door modules were not compatible enough with the KG and each needed updates. When KG was trying to chat with its sick doors it would jam the gateway sick with messages and disrupt everything else (seemingly random) - Once doors were fixed *EVERYTHING* became much more responsive and better behaved .
My point here is the limited Gateway bandwidth makes it a casualty when faults in OTHER MODULES saturate its queues.
Without any fault everything in the car is super responsive (trunk, steering, engine, tranny shift points, doors...) and conversely, the more faulty modules, the more every system becomes slow poke (trunk kick, random misfires, voltage Mgt.)
Case in point:
Once a while, I can unlock my parked car and get the alarm to honk the horns when I open the driver door... ouch on high CAN latencies!!
In conclusion I'd say the modern car designs only work well with ALL GOOD MODULES else they perform in a semi-DEGRADED mode and feel like an old ride: less power, tranny slips, dimmer headlights, crazy key, glitchy radar/brake warnings...
Many people are limited to keyfob coin-cell diagnostic while busy dealers just love to swap main AGM battery instead of following clear troubleshooting procedures in Xentry.
This organized chaos is not rocket science when the exact same issues are manufactured endlessly to profit from our struggle.
👏
+++ 2023 update: I've fixed the alarm honking at me: engineered CAN chaos by way of solderless modules.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Nov 7, 2023 at 05:09 PM.
Newbie
Joined: Jan 2021
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2017 C300 4Matic
On the Keyless Go issues, the symptoms:
Generally speaking, the Keyless Go system frequently will not unlock the car or allow it to start and is exhibiting other symptoms as well. This is generally at first use after the vehicle has been sitting overnight,
Documented Keyless Go symptoms include:
Generally speaking, the Keyless Go system frequently will not unlock the car or allow it to start and is exhibiting other symptoms as well. This is generally at first use after the vehicle has been sitting overnight,
Documented Keyless Go symptoms include:
- Does not unlock car with door handle or key fob buttons (obviously common)
- Unlocks car, but then won’t recognize that the key is in the vehicle and won’t allow the car to start (also not uncommon)
- Will unlock and open the rear cargo door without allowing you to unlock the rest of the vehicle after many attempts with the door handle or key fob buttons while still allowing the tailgate to operate normally.·
- Allows you in the car with either the door handle or key fob, but may or may not allow the car to start with either the push button or inserting the key fob.
OP, did you ever figure this out? I have a 2017 W205 and I am getting the EXACT symptoms that you mentioned. Wonder if I should replace the car's battery or something.
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 12,214
Likes: 6,898
From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
standard keyless chaos...
You should read this well documented thread. The solution can't be summarized in 5 steps.
