Javvy

Hello Peeps,

So after an 8 yrs sabbatical, I am thinking of returning to MB world and need you, peeps, expert advice.

I am looking at the below vehicle...

https://drivenowautosales.net/2012-M...3/Details.aspx

The carfax is attached, please review it and let me know if this is a good vehicle....am also interested in how to go about getting the dealer maintenance records...

I have read the below link and others...

https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w212/658086-buying-over-70-90k-2011-2013-e350-bluetec.html

Oil Cooler Gasket replacement is the only task that is somewhat difficult for my expertise... I am 8/10 on maintenance and repair and do not fear from any technically challenging work, just need an in-depth DIY that I can follow. If there are any links or videos on this job then this would be a great buy...

Anything else that I need to be aware of please help me out...

Thank You
Javvy

Javvy

kbob999....gave very good feedback....

any DIY write-ups on the following I would like to review before I jump on this...mind you I have a third vehicle that I can drive while this vehicle will be down to do these DIY projects.....

1) Oil Cooler gasket
2) Tumbler Valve gum up
3) oxygen sensor
4) heater in adBlue tank... $$$ how much ?
5) leaking injector seals
6) swirl motor ...?? dont know what this is...
7)

kbob999

Thanks for the feedback Javvy. This is a car that I plan to keep for a long time, so I have taken preventive measures to keep it reliable and functioning well.
I have DIY for a number of these tasks, and have performed about half of them. I'll make it a point to put together a DIY for a couple of these on your list. Here's a few notes to add to your list...

1) I've done the oil cooler gasket repair. I believe the 2012 has the new gaskets from the factory, but you will need to verify that. This is an 8/10 task in terms of DIY skill, and took me 20 hours, much of that cleaning the intake manifold gunk.
2) The tumbler valve gums up from blowby oil and EGR mixing in the intake. Remove either one, and the problem goes away. I've added a pint catch tank for blowby oil capture. It helps, but does not cure the issue. Note that the linkage to the valves are made of plastic, and they wear as the resistance in the valves increases. I would replace these with aluminum linkage arms ($100) if I ever get into this issue.
3) Have not had O2 sensors issues, but these are relatively easy and inexpensive to repair.
4) I expect to have issues down the road with the Adblue tank heater, but there is a DIY that shows it is pretty easy to drop the tank and fix. Not a deal breaker.
5) My injectors have been acting up, with occasional rough starts, and I now use a lubricity additive at fillup. It has helped to improve millage and with rough starts. I'm planning to pull my glow plugs and service them to ensure they are OK and easy to remove from the head. They can break in the head if not pulled at 100K miles and lubricated with ceramic grease.
6) The swirl motor is connected to the tumbler valves and linkage. It fails when the valves gum up, or when blowby oil is dripped on the motor from the turbo intake seal. I've built a simple aluminum shield to divert oil from falling onto the motor. This will prevent one of the motor failure points.

Last - make sure the trans in your subject car has been serviced TWICE already, as it needs to be done ever 39K miles. If not, I would be hesitant to buy it. It's really expensive to fix or replace, and dealer only, as the controller and board inside are married to your VIN.

Best of luck in your search!

kbob999

A couple of DIY articles to share with the group. Payback for the invaluable help I have received here.
I've done the Oil Cooler Seals, but not the AdBlue Tank Heater.
Enjoy!

Javvy

You are the best kbob999, you have put me at ease....I will definitely look up your DIY's and keep your suggestions in mind...

Thank You so very much.

Javvy

Javvy

Hi kbob999,

I called all the dealerships and verified the service, The service B which would entail tranny fluid change was performed at 81k miles and the Oil cooler seals is the updated kind so no issues there, at least not in the interim.....

Are you ok with the One tranny fluid change and not being done twice??

Javvy

kbob999

aquinob

Car looks ok, the dealer quite the opposite. Lots of small used car lots in Norfolk, and you gotta wonder where they get these cars from. I take it you havent seen it in the flesh yet? I live one town over in Portsmouth. I would be very hesitant to buy anything off one of these lots, let alone a high dollar car like a benz where you have to know the history of it.

From the photos, interior is dirty, no mats on the floor. Wood is faded. Seems pretty cheap for a diesel, maybe that is the attraction? Body looks ok from what I can see, they dont post any photos of the motor or trunk or closeups of the rims, etc. Doubt they did much of anything to try and clean it up or verify its condition, just trying to do a quick flip probably.

Javvy

thank you for your feedback... aquinob

I want to trade my 2013 Hyundai Sonata Hybrid with 106xxx miles for $8K and buy this for $13K, that was what I offered to the dealer. I spoke to both Autohause and Valley Mercedes dealership service rep and got the information. Nothing wrong in my Hyundai, runs beautiful and I have bought it up to date with all the work I did on it and it is super luxurious and fetches me 35mpg in winter and 40mpgs in summer. Just the safety aspect of a Mercedes is missing, that is the reason for the trade. If the dealer does not agree to the trade I will just keep looking.

Javvy

kajtek1

I own pre DEF model of those, what is 2008 E320 BT.
Very desirable engine, excelent torque and decent mpg.
But even without cooler job and DEF issues, those engines still need intake flaps cleaning, what the car above is close due. EGR pipes cleaning as well, but that is easy part.
Owning also E250 Bluetec, I would rather spend couple thousands more for it. Much less worry and 30% better mpg, with only slight decrease in performance from smaller engine.
Amazing that when I first bought E320 BT, I was amazed with smooth 7G transmission.
Couple years later - comparing to E250 the transmission braking annoys me.

Javvy

thank you kajtek1, which models tranny barking annoys you, the 350 or the 250??

javvy

kajtek1

7G transmismissions have aggressive braking programs. When I4 engine has low inertia and therefore lower braking force, when I roll down to red light with V6 and it kicks to 3 or 2nd for braking, your head moves pretty visible.
Also newer 7G we have with 4-banger are redesigned, but not to the degree I could notice obvious difference.
First time I got 7G we still had 5G car in the family, so I went back to compare and yes, 5G does engine braking as well, but program gives softer changes and gasoline engine we had is lower inertia than diesel.