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Any way you could make a custom downpipe for us E250 guys who need to remove our DPFs and SCRs?
bit of a late reply, i'm on the wrong end of the world for that unfortunately..
200,000k preventative maintenance..
Replaced:
Oil filter housing with oil cooler (was weeping from gasket since i purchased car)
Water pump
Pre Cat Oxygen sensor
Ignition coils
Spark plugs
Fan belt
Cleaned intake ports (usual direct injection gunk)
Re greased stater motor and check brushes (got quieter after new grease)
I see that there's not many E250's on here but i'd thought I would post up anyways.
I'm fairly new to the Mercedes scene modifications wise (I currently own a W204 and a R172 as well and various other race/stock cars) and purchased a 2012 E250 CGI with AMG options to play around with.
Have noticed it responds fairly well to current mods, but seeing the amount of knowledge on this site, I thought I ask the experts on other suggestions for modifications that would be beneficial on these cars.
I am an Ex Mechanic and a Metal Fabricator, so mods made from scratch don't cost me an arm and a leg..
Any input appreciated.
Current mods:
3" Alloy intake pipe
3" turbo back, 100cell race cat, to stock rear mufflers (mid muffler's have been deleted)
Performance panel filter
Turbo muffler delete
Coming next:
Intercooler and hard pipes
GFB BOV/Return valve upgrade
Coilovers (have been ordered)
Hybrid turbo with billet front wheel and custom steam pipe manifold mated to stock rear housing (i can make a bolt on kit if there is enough interests)
Tuning
Possible rear tail light/bumper conversion (I like the older W212 front head lights,)
Retro fit some interior options that i'm missing
Some photos:
Exhaust
Intake pipe
Added more pre load to the waste gate for faster spool
got the same engine on my c250. Seems like you missed the vacuum connecting into the intake pipe. Other than that this is very similar to what I'm planning on doing to my intake. Also I highly suggest putting a catch can. It has proven to be very useful as it does catch a lot of that blowby oil and unburned fuel.
got the same engine on my c250. Seems like you missed the vacuum connecting into the intake pipe. Other than that this is very similar to what I'm planning on doing to my intake. Also I highly suggest putting a catch can. It has proven to be very useful as it does catch a lot of that blowby oil and unburned fuel.
The small Vac hose on my intake is only a breather for the wastegate 3 port solenoid, not really needed to be re plumbed back. I have seen newer M271's with more vac lines then mine though.
I run 2 catch cans circled in red below (can also be seen in fabricated in the above build):
Do a quick check for your dashcam tap-a-fuse add on. Seeing the Front SAM in front of you as per photo below, I believe the left side is power source and the right side is load.
Simple test light or DMM check will do, without the fuse the left side gets power .....right side no power.
I believe you are tapping from fuse no 9 ..yes ?
So your tap-a-fuse has to be oriented the opposite way and the red output cable to dashcam is then fused. Safe for your dashcam and the Front SAM most importantly.
Fuse 9 if not fused and so happen to get a short circuit....can fry Relay K and/or the copper trace at the pcb board and upstream of it, is Fuse 154 of 150 amps at F32 Pre Fuse block.
If you loose fuse 154 ( not likely due to 150 amps size) car will be disabled, as almost all fuses and relays at Front SAM is powered by fuse 154 at F32.
Or is that tap a fuse is actually a 180 degrees routing internally for upper fuse or add-on accesories ? but normal path for the lower/orginal fuse ?
ADD photo for clarity , my English description may not be easiest to understand.
Last edited by S-Prihadi; Mar 27, 2022 at 01:30 PM.
Reason: add photo
Do a quick check for your dashcam tap-a-fuse add on. Seeing the Front SAM in front of you as per photo below, I believe the left side is power source and the right side is load.
Simple test light or DMM check will do, without the fuse the left side gets power .....right side no power.
I believe you are tapping from fuse no 9 ..yes ?
So your tap-a-fuse has to be oriented the opposite way and the red output cable to dashcam is then fused. Safe for your dashcam and the Front SAM most importantly.
Fuse 9 if not fused and so happen to get a short circuit....can fry Relay K and/or the copper trace at the pcb board and upstream of it, is Fuse 154 of 150 amps at F32 Pre Fuse block.
If you loose fuse 154 ( not likely due to 150 amps size) car will be disabled, as almost all fuses and relays at Front SAM is powered by fuse 154 at F32.
Or is that tap a fuse is actually a 180 degrees routing internally for upper fuse or add-on accesories ? but normal path for the lower/orginal fuse ?
ADD photo for clarity , my English description may not be easiest to understand.
It doesnt make a difference which way the Fuse Tap is facing in this situation.
Yes is it connected to fuse #9 Glove compartment socket 15amp
Original fuse is 15amps (blue), dash cam fuse is 5amp (orange),
so either possibility of install, it still has a fuse:
SAM > 5amp > dash cam
SAM > 15amp > 5amp > dash cam
The real reason the Fuse Tap is sitting that way in my fuse box, its cause it is the only way it fits
a) I have ro replace the led light plastic covers on my rear view side mirrors on both sides. I have the replacement parts but the job looks a little complicated and the internet how-to articles are not easy to understand. Should I have my mechanic do it?
, my English description may not be easiest to understand.
