Another E550 Brake Thread
Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 225
Likes: 67
From: West Linn, Oregon
2011 E550 - 4Matic, 2008 ML550
Yes - I had to get new rotors turned ON THE CAR - this takes away the run out.. Which you can see\hear when they are cut - They also make shims too - but i never went that route.
As i said - this was the last resort - but im going on 17K miles with no issues at all...
Pro Cut lathes are just hard to find as they are one of the few machines that will do a drilled or slotted rotor...
I called the Western Reg rep - who found a dealer for me - Super nice and supportive.
Let me know if you have any other questions...(And yes it does cost about 150 to have them both turned)
Cheers
JPC
As i said - this was the last resort - but im going on 17K miles with no issues at all...
Pro Cut lathes are just hard to find as they are one of the few machines that will do a drilled or slotted rotor...
I called the Western Reg rep - who found a dealer for me - Super nice and supportive.
Let me know if you have any other questions...(And yes it does cost about 150 to have them both turned)
Cheers
JPC
Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 95
Likes: 1
From: Los Angeles, California
2011 E350 4matic
Yes - I had to get new rotors turned ON THE CAR - this takes away the run out.. Which you can see\hear when they are cut - They also make shims too - but i never went that route.
As i said - this was the last resort - but im going on 17K miles with no issues at all...
Pro Cut lathes are just hard to find as they are one of the few machines that will do a drilled or slotted rotor...
I called the Western Reg rep - who found a dealer for me - Super nice and supportive.
Let me know if you have any other questions...(And yes it does cost about 150 to have them both turned)
Cheers
JPC
As i said - this was the last resort - but im going on 17K miles with no issues at all...
Pro Cut lathes are just hard to find as they are one of the few machines that will do a drilled or slotted rotor...
I called the Western Reg rep - who found a dealer for me - Super nice and supportive.
Let me know if you have any other questions...(And yes it does cost about 150 to have them both turned)
Cheers
JPC
Do you still have that contact info? Google is only sending me to dealerships. Also, i've called a couple places in LA and they act like the car is cursed or something lol.
Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 95
Likes: 1
From: Los Angeles, California
2011 E350 4matic
Update:
At first when I was driving and I hit 60 ON the gas i got the vibration
So I went to the MB technician and talked to him. He told me my front tires were "feathering" on the inside. Basically the inside was wearing faster than the outside.
Came home, I rotated the tires, then got back on the road. Now when I hit 60 on the gas i get no vibration, but as soon as I let OFF the gas I get the vibration now.
Took it to an old man who is a MB specialist he gets in the car goes about 10 feet pumping the brake at 5ft intervals and tells me it's my control arms.
I have no clue what to believe now.
At first when I was driving and I hit 60 ON the gas i got the vibration
So I went to the MB technician and talked to him. He told me my front tires were "feathering" on the inside. Basically the inside was wearing faster than the outside.
Came home, I rotated the tires, then got back on the road. Now when I hit 60 on the gas i get no vibration, but as soon as I let OFF the gas I get the vibration now.
Took it to an old man who is a MB specialist he gets in the car goes about 10 feet pumping the brake at 5ft intervals and tells me it's my control arms.
I have no clue what to believe now.
Banned
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,957
Likes: 1,640
Update:
At first when I was driving and I hit 60 ON the gas i got the vibration
So I went to the MB technician and talked to him. He told me my front tires were "feathering" on the inside. Basically the inside was wearing faster than the outside.
Came home, I rotated the tires, then got back on the road. Now when I hit 60 on the gas i get no vibration, but as soon as I let OFF the gas I get the vibration now.
Took it to an old man who is a MB specialist he gets in the car goes about 10 feet pumping the brake at 5ft intervals and tells me it's my control arms.
I have no clue what to believe now.
At first when I was driving and I hit 60 ON the gas i got the vibration
So I went to the MB technician and talked to him. He told me my front tires were "feathering" on the inside. Basically the inside was wearing faster than the outside.
Came home, I rotated the tires, then got back on the road. Now when I hit 60 on the gas i get no vibration, but as soon as I let OFF the gas I get the vibration now.
Took it to an old man who is a MB specialist he gets in the car goes about 10 feet pumping the brake at 5ft intervals and tells me it's my control arms.
I have no clue what to believe now.
Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 95
Likes: 1
From: Los Angeles, California
2011 E350 4matic
The first time I had the vibration and changed my rotors it went away, and now the vibration is back. Hence me thinking it's my rotors again. Do you need more history or is this good enough?
Banned
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,957
Likes: 1,640
Sure. It would be important to know if your vibration happens when you are braking. Not just gassing your car at 60 or letting off the gas at 60. Let’s start with an answer to that question. Unless you are using the brake pedal your rotor has no effect on vibration at speed. Unless your brakes are locked up.
Last edited by RA72825; Apr 23, 2019 at 07:45 AM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 1,273
Likes: 129
From: Orlando, FL
2015 GL550 4matic
Sure. It would be important to know if your vibration happens when you are braking. Not just gassing your car at 60 or letting off the gas at 60. Let’s start with an answer to that question. Unless you are using the brake pedal your rotor has no effect on vibration at speed. Unless your brakes are locked up.
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Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 95
Likes: 1
From: Los Angeles, California
2011 E350 4matic
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
2014 E550
In your case, it appears you may have overcome your runout issue by putting the clamp on the wheel and disk. Since MB prefers lugs over studs I would follow the recommended torque values. The lugs are designed for a certain stress and snapping one off into the hub would really suck. I’ve had 2 E550 4M now along with a W211 E500 4M and none of them have experienced brake shimmy. It can’t be that I’m just a lucky guy. Torquing the lugs is a key part of a successful relationship with these front brakes.
The only things I haven't done (besides extra-high lug torque) is getting the rotors cut on the car, and a complete caliper rebuild. It's very possible that I (and others reporting issues) just have hub assemblies that are a bit out of alignment. That will be my next step if I see issues with the Centric stuff. The good news is that it's been a rather cheap experience so far, and I like working in my garage. Plus, it feels like a new car with fresh brakes and tires!
Last edited by decngb; Apr 25, 2019 at 09:18 AM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 1,273
Likes: 129
From: Orlando, FL
2015 GL550 4matic
Member
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 95
Likes: 23
From: NYC
2014 E550 4Matic
So I got fed up with the brake vibration issue and went with RacingBrake 2 piece rotors and their XT910 pads. I tested this setup for 2 weeks and although my steering vibration was gone while braking, I now have NO stopping power under hard braking with the XT910 pads. Just a loud whining noise and cabin vibration. I reached out to RacingBrake but didnt get a response. Did some searching for new METALLIC pads. Took a week to decide between Poterfield R4-S and Disc Italia Titanium Kevlar. I ended up with Disc Italia Titanium Kevlar after reading a Audi forum... I think these are the best pads I have ever used. Zero vibration, no noise, low dust and most importantly the stopping power is Amazing.
Saying all that I really think there is something with the stock pad formula leaving deposits on the rotors and causing the vibration. I recommend going with a metallic pad over ceramic. Disc Italia Titanium Kevlar is a great option... out of the 3 options we have lol.
Saying all that I really think there is something with the stock pad formula leaving deposits on the rotors and causing the vibration. I recommend going with a metallic pad over ceramic. Disc Italia Titanium Kevlar is a great option... out of the 3 options we have lol.
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
ML430
Reading through these posts makes me both mad and happy at the same time. I'm mad because I expect a better quality experience from MB but happy that I know it's not just me. I've had my 2010 e350 repaired at least 4 times for this issue. The latest repair they told me it was my hubs (which I've been told is a crock of s#&t) so they replaced those only for the issue to come back about 6 weeks later. I've heard just about every excuse (my driving habits, soft/bent rims, and potholes) but now I see that there has to be an issue with MB's product. It sounds like my next and maybe only option is to go aftermarket.
The part that makes me the most confused is I bought it used with 12k miles on it and the issue didn't start until around 60k and has continued (have about 110k now.
Does anyone know if they changed suppliers?
The part that makes me the most confused is I bought it used with 12k miles on it and the issue didn't start until around 60k and has continued (have about 110k now.
Does anyone know if they changed suppliers?
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 1,273
Likes: 129
From: Orlando, FL
2015 GL550 4matic
Bad news is I've started to notice a tiny braking vibration again on my 550 with Centric rotors and ceramic pads. Probably less than 20K on them, I don't drive a lot, less than 8k /yr. Before I changed to this setup it was more like a surge when braking at a slower roll, now it's a tiny wobble of the wheel in a certain lower speed range. MB are normally so tight and fluid that even the smallest oddity makes you notice. I think I will grease the caliper pins again, check for any corrosion around the hubs, but I cleaned them with steel wool and put a light coat of grease before the rotors went on. Maybe check torque on lugs also. If it gets any worse I'll probably look for someone who can cut the rotors while mounted and see the price difference over replacing all again. It's not really expensive if you take an hour to DIY. Maybe about $250 for Centric front rotors and pads.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
2014 E550
It hasn't been long enough since I installed my Centric rotors and pads, but I also had all four rims reconditioned and new tire installed at the same time. All four rims were at least a bit out of round, and three were rashed. The wheels look and feel amazing now. Hopefully the whole family has gotten used to the low profile tires and we can avoid any future rim damage. I may go ahead and get the on-car cutting done before any vibration shows up.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
2014 E550
They straightened all 4 rims, and did curb rash repair on 3 for $730. They looks as good as new, and had to remove/install the tires to do the work. I previously had a “mobile wheel repair” guy fix rim rash for $80, and it looked like crap and started peeling within a year.
