Quattrodude

Yes - I had to get new rotors turned ON THE CAR - this takes away the run out.. Which you can see\hear when they are cut - They also make shims too - but i never went that route.

As i said - this was the last resort - but im going on 17K miles with no issues at all...

Pro Cut lathes are just hard to find as they are one of the few machines that will do a drilled or slotted rotor...

I called the Western Reg rep - who found a dealer for me - Super nice and supportive.

Let me know if you have any other questions...(And yes it does cost about 150 to have them both turned)

Cheers
JPC

SBundlez

Do you still have that contact info? Google is only sending me to dealerships. Also, i've called a couple places in LA and they act like the car is cursed or something lol.

SBundlez

Update:

At first when I was driving and I hit 60 ON the gas i got the vibration

So I went to the MB technician and talked to him. He told me my front tires were "feathering" on the inside. Basically the inside was wearing faster than the outside.

Came home, I rotated the tires, then got back on the road. Now when I hit 60 on the gas i get no vibration, but as soon as I let OFF the gas I get the vibration now.

Took it to an old man who is a MB specialist he gets in the car goes about 10 feet pumping the brake at 5ft intervals and tells me it's my control arms.

I have no clue what to believe now.

KEY08

you mean your complaint of vibration, pulse, shimmy has never been under braking? Why are you in this thread?

retna7

SBundlez

The first time I had the vibration and changed my rotors it went away, and now the vibration is back. Hence me thinking it's my rotors again. Do you need more history or is this good enough?

KEY08

Sure. It would be important to know if your vibration happens when you are braking. Not just gassing your car at 60 or letting off the gas at 60. Let’s start with an answer to that question. Unless you are using the brake pedal your rotor has no effect on vibration at speed. Unless your brakes are locked up.

jonUF02

Only other argument could be that maybe the calipers are not functioning (releasing) correctly, need to take the pins out and service them properly with grease.

SBundlez

This was exactly it. I pulled the calipers off and put some new lubricant on the pins and I'm back to normal.

decngb

It *could* be that you are just lucky. The numbers of people here on the other side of the equation would seem to indicate that is possible. I've done brakes on probably 15 different cars - some multiple times. This is the first car that has had this problem. When I first got it used, I had the dealer replace them first with OEM parts, and I've since had to cut or replace rotors every 10K miles or so. I use almost all the techniques mentioned here recently - proper bedding/break-in, cleaning hub and wheel surfaces, proper torque setting with a good torque wrench, cleaning pins and using quality brake grease. Lately, I've been using hyper-miler techniques to minimize brake usage. I recently got the wheels aligned, and the car is at the wheel repair place to make the rims perfect. One of them was slightly out-of-round, but on the rear until a recent rotation. Once I get it back, it's getting new tires too.

The only things I haven't done (besides extra-high lug torque) is getting the rotors cut on the car, and a complete caliper rebuild. It's very possible that I (and others reporting issues) just have hub assemblies that are a bit out of alignment. That will be my next step if I see issues with the Centric stuff. The good news is that it's been a rather cheap experience so far, and I like working in my garage. Plus, it feels like a new car with fresh brakes and tires!

jonUF02

Never overlook this step when doing a brake job. Glad it was an easy fix.

Quattrodude

Sent Procut rep - good luck - please let us know the outcome...

Cheers
JP

KillBillz

So I got fed up with the brake vibration issue and went with RacingBrake 2 piece rotors and their XT910 pads. I tested this setup for 2 weeks and although my steering vibration was gone while braking, I now have NO stopping power under hard braking with the XT910 pads. Just a loud whining noise and cabin vibration. I reached out to RacingBrake but didnt get a response. Did some searching for new METALLIC pads. Took a week to decide between Poterfield R4-S and Disc Italia Titanium Kevlar. I ended up with Disc Italia Titanium Kevlar after reading a Audi forum... I think these are the best pads I have ever used. Zero vibration, no noise, low dust and most importantly the stopping power is Amazing.

Saying all that I really think there is something with the stock pad formula leaving deposits on the rotors and causing the vibration. I recommend going with a metallic pad over ceramic. Disc Italia Titanium Kevlar is a great option... out of the 3 options we have lol.

dw9

Reading through these posts makes me both mad and happy at the same time. I'm mad because I expect a better quality experience from MB but happy that I know it's not just me. I've had my 2010 e350 repaired at least 4 times for this issue. The latest repair they told me it was my hubs (which I've been told is a crock of s#&t) so they replaced those only for the issue to come back about 6 weeks later. I've heard just about every excuse (my driving habits, soft/bent rims, and potholes) but now I see that there has to be an issue with MB's product. It sounds like my next and maybe only option is to go aftermarket.

The part that makes me the most confused is I bought it used with 12k miles on it and the issue didn't start until around 60k and has continued (have about 110k now.

Does anyone know if they changed suppliers?

jonUF02

Bad news is I've started to notice a tiny braking vibration again on my 550 with Centric rotors and ceramic pads. Probably less than 20K on them, I don't drive a lot, less than 8k /yr. Before I changed to this setup it was more like a surge when braking at a slower roll, now it's a tiny wobble of the wheel in a certain lower speed range. MB are normally so tight and fluid that even the smallest oddity makes you notice. I think I will grease the caliper pins again, check for any corrosion around the hubs, but I cleaned them with steel wool and put a light coat of grease before the rotors went on. Maybe check torque on lugs also. If it gets any worse I'll probably look for someone who can cut the rotors while mounted and see the price difference over replacing all again. It's not really expensive if you take an hour to DIY. Maybe about $250 for Centric front rotors and pads.

decngb

It hasn't been long enough since I installed my Centric rotors and pads, but I also had all four rims reconditioned and new tire installed at the same time. All four rims were at least a bit out of round, and three were rashed. The wheels look and feel amazing now. Hopefully the whole family has gotten used to the low profile tires and we can avoid any future rim damage. I may go ahead and get the on-car cutting done before any vibration shows up.

TwinBoost

I got the vibes too, on my 2012 e550 and will probably just get the calipers serviced and the rotors turned.

How much for the rim repair?

decngb

They straightened all 4 rims, and did curb rash repair on 3 for $730. They looks as good as new, and had to remove/install the tires to do the work. I previously had a “mobile wheel repair” guy fix rim rash for $80, and it looked like crap and started peeling within a year.