DIY: Joyeauto Wireless CarPlay for NTG4.5/4.7
The only consistent issue I’m having now is the the fact that I have to switch to back and forth between the HU command and Carplay to fix the control wheel button selection issue. I have to perform this action almost every time I get in my car.
Joyauto has told me that the problem exists because the HU boots up faster than the carplay unit, so there is nothing we can do except switch back and forth.
This extra step really annoys me. I just want to get in and go with out thinking about some ritual I have to perform. I have a W204 NTG 4.5 HU.




The only consistent issue I’m having now is the the fact that I have to switch to back and forth between the HU command and Carplay to fix the control wheel button selection issue. I have to perform this action almost every time I get in my car.
Joyauto has told me that the problem exists because the HU boots up faster than the carplay unit, so there is nothing we can do except switch back and forth.
This extra step really annoys me. I just want to get in and go with out thinking about some ritual I have to perform. I have a W204 NTG 4.5 HU.
Also, when I contacted Joyeauto about the locking up issue they want a video. How do you get a video of this locking up?
Mega kudos to Cadetdrivr for his DIY and followup comments. I bought it and installed it based primarily on this thread and those instructions. Some comments on my experience:
- Instructions on this thread are great. Don't think this would be a very easy DIY based on what comes with the Joyeauto unit - but much of the work is specific to the car you're installing in, not the unit itself.
- Removing the trim was the same as shown in the DIY video provided. But removing the glove box was different. Had two visible screws on the inside top edge of the glove box, and one additional screw on the far right side (as you are facing the glove box) underneath a small removable access hole in the glove box lining. Two screws on the bottom, but to access them you have to drop the panel under the glove box by removing the three screws that hold it in.
- Put some rags over the wood trim below the HU and on the center console. The metal back and edges of the HU will scratch it, as I learned the hard way
- The two screws holding in the Head Unit aren't just screwed into the top of the HU. They actually connect to a sliding lock mechanism. So you actually don't want to remove them entirely and may have to continue to unscrew them even when they seem loose. Wiggling the HU, and/or pushing the screws down, will cause the slide locks to drop so you can remove the HU.
- Seems that wire colors from Joyauto are NOT a consistent guide for how to connect. My LVDS IN cable was pink, and the LDVS OUT cable was gray. On the HU, the IN cable was gray, and the cable next to it was pink. So I installed based on the pics in the DIY of the cable connection location on the back of the HU vs the cable color.
- I originally missed the specifics on moving the optical cables to the part of the connector that plugs into the back of the HU. I had left them attached to the original connector where it plugged into the other end of the Joyauto large 48 pin connector. As a result, when I hooked it up, everything "looked" ok, but I wasn't getting sound from either the Joyauto unit or the command unit. This was because the optical cables make the connection to the amp - and I had them in the wrong place. Moved them and everything was good.
- Getting the HU back in is indeed the challenging part. Need to take a good look at the cables coming off the back of the HU and figure out how to get them pushed back and down in the center so they're not bunched up behind the HU. There is a little space to push the cables back and down, but since they've sheathed into bundles, it takes some work to move them around. And I still had to push the unit in with some force
- Appears the Bluetooth connection had been renamed JOYEAUTO instead of IDCORE
- I installed the unit in the top shelf of the glovebox as Cadetdrivr did. But ended up having realatively little of the LVDS cable to work with, so it took some effort to get it connected to the back of the unit inside the glove box. The power cable and LVDS OUT cable had plenty of slack to work with. Suggest you try to make sure the LVDS IN cable is stretched out as far as possible to give you some slack to work with
One question I have at the moment - does Siri on the phone require / use the mic connected to the JoyeAuto unit, or does it still use the mic on the phone? I connected the mic, but left it sitting in the glove box as I was planning on using the original command unit phone features based on comments about sound quality, and I don't make that many calls from the car.
Also, when I contacted Joyeauto about the locking up issue they want a video. How do you get a video of this locking up?
The phone audio was decribed as serviceable, but not ideal. I'm not a real fan of the factory phone connection already, I'm guessing this is a simple hardware solution? Has anyone used an alternate mic (higher quality) with this kit. BTW - is the mic connection 3.5 or 2.5mm?
I'm guessing the answer is no, but can you play the FM/AM radio while an app is displayed on screen, such as maps?
Has anyone ran their usb exentension to the factory location in the center council?




Fortunately, many AM/FM stations provide their audio streams to various phone apps negating the need to tune the radio, unless you are out of cell coverage.
Mega kudos to Cadetdrivr for his DIY and followup comments. I bought it and installed it based primarily on this thread and those instructions. Some comments on my experience:
- Instructions on this thread are great. Don't think this would be a very easy DIY based on what comes with the Joyeauto unit - but much of the work is specific to the car you're installing in, not the unit itself.
- Removing the trim was the same as shown in the DIY video provided. But removing the glove box was different. Had two visible screws on the inside top edge of the glove box, and one additional screw on the far right side (as you are facing the glove box) underneath a small removable access hole in the glove box lining. Two screws on the bottom, but to access them you have to drop the panel under the glove box by removing the three screws that hold it in.
- Put some rags over the wood trim below the HU and on the center console. The metal back and edges of the HU will scratch it, as I learned the hard way
- The two screws holding in the Head Unit aren't just screwed into the top of the HU. They actually connect to a sliding lock mechanism. So you actually don't want to remove them entirely and may have to continue to unscrew them even when they seem loose. Wiggling the HU, and/or pushing the screws down, will cause the slide locks to drop so you can remove the HU.
- Seems that wire colors from Joyauto are NOT a consistent guide for how to connect. My LVDS IN cable was pink, and the LDVS OUT cable was gray. On the HU, the IN cable was gray, and the cable next to it was pink. So I installed based on the pics in the DIY of the cable connection location on the back of the HU vs the cable color.
- I originally missed the specifics on moving the optical cables to the part of the connector that plugs into the back of the HU. I had left them attached to the original connector where it plugged into the other end of the Joyauto large 48 pin connector. As a result, when I hooked it up, everything "looked" ok, but I wasn't getting sound from either the Joyauto unit or the command unit. This was because the optical cables make the connection to the amp - and I had them in the wrong place. Moved them and everything was good.
- Getting the HU back in is indeed the challenging part. Need to take a good look at the cables coming off the back of the HU and figure out how to get them pushed back and down in the center so they're not bunched up behind the HU. There is a little space to push the cables back and down, but since they've sheathed into bundles, it takes some work to move them around. And I still had to push the unit in with some force
- Appears the Bluetooth connection had been renamed JOYEAUTO instead of IDCORE
- I installed the unit in the top shelf of the glovebox as Cadetdrivr did. But ended up having realatively little of the LVDS cable to work with, so it took some effort to get it connected to the back of the unit inside the glove box. The power cable and LVDS OUT cable had plenty of slack to work with. Suggest you try to make sure the LVDS IN cable is stretched out as far as possible to give you some slack to work with
One question I have at the moment - does Siri on the phone require / use the mic connected to the JoyeAuto unit, or does it still use the mic on the phone? I connected the mic, but left it sitting in the glove box as I was planning on using the original command unit phone features based on comments about sound quality, and I don't make that many calls from the car.
AUX is selectable on the Command unit, but gives the message ‘media interface unavailable’. I’ve tried entering the engineering menus to enable the AUX input to see if that helps, but my menus are completely different to all the guides I’ve found about it. I’ve also tried an OBD AUX unlock tool, but that has made no difference either.
I currently have it working in a fashion by using Bluetooth to stream the audio, but this isn’t ideal. I’m at a loss as to what to try next and would appreciate any pointers or anything I could try.
Thanks, Chris
The Best of Mercedes & AMG




AUX is selectable on the Command unit, but gives the message ‘media interface unavailable’. I’ve tried entering the engineering menus to enable the AUX input to see if that helps, but my menus are completely different to all the guides I’ve found about it. I’ve also tried an OBD AUX unlock tool, but that has made no difference either.
I currently have it working in a fashion by using Bluetooth to stream the audio, but this isn’t ideal. I’m at a loss as to what to try next and would appreciate any pointers or anything I could try.
Thanks, Chris
see this post:
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post7932549
Last edited by cadetdrivr; Jan 1, 2020 at 04:05 PM.
see this post:
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post7932549
I’ve been supplied an adapter, MMI to 3.5mm, but my head unit doesn’t see anything and just gives a ‘media interface unavailable’ message. It has always given this same message, regardless of whether the adapter is plugged in or not. I’ve tried with different sound inputs just to check (iPod, phone etc) but still nothing. Thank again for the advice 👍🏻




passwords to access different areas of the site, lots of info I wish we had earlier.
Download: joyedow
Installation: joyeins
Tech Support: joyetec
User Manual: joyeauto*








The downloads section of their website is confusing, IMHO, as it mixes all the products together.
Last edited by cadetdrivr; Jan 8, 2020 at 08:35 PM.




The downloads section of their website is confusing, IMHO, as it mixes all the products together.
Hi, I would start a new topic for this, but think it might be relevant to the post. Since having the Joyeauto interface fitted, I’ve been having problems with various functions on my Audio 20 unit, which I’m wondering if is consistent with a problem with the MOST loop.
Since fitting the device, my DAB no longer works and gives a ‘Device Unavailable’ message when selecting that menu. I also no longer get the radio station names in the normal FM menu, nor the track names and station information. I’ve tried searching, and seen it suggested that I try resetting the DAB tuner, which I think is in the boot of my C204.
The car is booked in at a Mercedes dealership on Tuesday for another issue, but I’m wondering if there was anything I could try before I get them to look into the issue and pay their extortionate rates! To confirm, I’m getting sound from the radio on FM mode and all other sound is fine (Bluetooth audio, CD etc). Is this consistent with a problem on the fibre optic loop?




And no, this is not clearly indicated in the Joyeauto “instructions.” See posts #4 and #118 for photos of the fibre connection.
I don’t know if that’s your issue, but if the DAB is in the trunk it sure sounds like it’s not communicating with the head unit.
Last edited by cadetdrivr; Jan 12, 2020 at 04:15 PM.
Would urge caution with this update
Currently I can only use carplay thru the wired option now, not wireless. Has anyone experienced anything like this? Thanks




