Ordered ECS kit all OEM. Watched video by the Australian dude bike racer. Bought pump from a member here.

A bit messy but way less complicated than expected. I used a multimeter with temp probe taped to bottom of pan like in video. It takes a long time to get to 45c. Once it did it was easy to disconnect pump, let fluid drain until it is spurting, remove adapter and install drain plug.

Have a good torque wrench for the bolts on the pan. They take very little torque and no chance that you will do it correctly by feel.

The torque converter bolt was so easy on the 2011 E350. Rotated engine until I could see it and used Allen wrench. I think 3 or so quarts came out. I read of others not having this done and it is like changing half the fluid.

 

Please tell us the estimated total cost for all of your equipment, parts, fluid, etc.

 

I bought the kit with all OEM parts from ECS Tuning. There are different prices depending on year. I paid $300 delivered.

I read tons of posts about using different fluid at a significant savings but I was paranoid and doing it for the first time so just went with all OEM.

I bought the pump about a year ago from a member here for $100. Almost anything will work here. A guy online used the oil bottles themselves with air compressor.

The other parts were standard tools in garage.

 

Nice job1 This is the only job that I'm not confident in doing. I thought you needed a specialized tool, but if I can "pump" it in without it ... hmm

I see two kits. I guess this lower priced one ($200 vs. $300) is using non-MB branded fluid, but it says it meets the proper specs
link for my 2012 E550 https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...2222772000kt2/

Was 9 quarts of fluid sufficient when after you drained the converter?

 

You can get the fluid at your local shell distributor. Last time I asked it was a little over $65 for a case of 12 quarts. There are two fluids though, one is ATF 134 and the other is ATF 134 FE. One is red and the other blue.

https://www.shell.us/business-custom...r-locator.html

 

Cool graphic at the bottom of this page - https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...tosin-7229late

Also a DIY: https://blog.fcpeuro.com/mercedes-7-...-transmissions

No affiliation.

 

Did anyone try this (relevant part ) instead of draining the torque convertor, because I understand not all torque convertors have a drain plug?

 

Suppose all 7G transmissions do have converter plugs.
Beware that 7G and 7G+ use different filters.
I wonder what garage temperature OP had?
I did it in Las Vegas heat and took 2 minutes to get ATF warm for final test.
Husker https://www.mbdirectparts.com/ has MB parts cheaper, but being dealer, they don't do substitutes.

 

Great information everyone. If I can find the proper adapter, I am going to give this a shot in a month or so when the car is due for service.

 

Don’t worry about doing this if you can change your oil. 9 quarts was more than enough. The kit came with 9 bottles of 1.05 quarts.

 

Hi, WIS has 35c for some transmissions but mine was 45c. I had multimeter taped to pan with insulation over it. It was in AZ maybe 75 degrees. It took like 15min to get to that.

 

The video with the Australia guy showed a simple one that he made with shutoff valve. Simple.

 

I made adapter myself. Had spare engine plug, who has the same threads what transmission plug, drilled hole in it, threaded and put barber connection for small pump I bought for $8 at local store. Those pumps are used for outboard engines gear oil replacement and are available everywhere.
It is small pump, so gives you good exercise, but then less risk of big spills.
Job is messy so get protective clothing.
I used infra-red thermometer for my changes in the past, but that come clumsy as different parts of transmission would show different temperatures.
Now with MB-oriented scanners selling for $150 there is no excuse to not own 1 and use it for temperature reading.
Just DIY this job pays for the scanner and case of good beer.

 

I also made my own transmission fluid pump.

I started with a 2 gallon garden sprayer that was on closeout at the end of the season. Removed the spray wand, and clamped a barbed ball valve in it's place, then added about 2' more of clear braided hose to the end of the ball valve. Then I drilled and tapped, and screwed in a small pressure gauge up on the top shoulder of the tank. Lastly, I used a hose clamp to attach a 722.9 fill adapter to the end.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...722-9-cta-7415

I have to loosen the hose clamp to screw the adapter into the fill opening on the pan, then I attach the hose and re-tighten the clamp. With the tank pressurized to about 20 psi, I open the ball valve and let the fluid flow.

There is very little mess, it is quick, and super convenient. Especially compared to the cheap little pumps that are designed to screw directly onto a transmission fluid bottle or gear oil bottle.

If you do your own transmission and diff fluid changes, I would highly recommend this as an essential tool. It cost me less than $50, including the ball valve, hose clamps, hose, pressure gauge, and transmission fill adapter. And it is worth every penny. I've used it a few times now, and it has paid for itself in convenience and time saving.

I've also made a pump for gear oil out of a 1 gallon sprayer.

 

Pictures please of your trans filler.

 

Sorry for the delay. Spent all yesterday washing and waxing the cars.


Transmission fill pump made from 2 gal. garden sprayer

This is my transmission fill pump. I've also made a fill pump for differential fluid out of a 1 gal. garden sprayer.

The adapter shown attached to the hose is the one for the 722.9. The sitting on the ground next to the tank is the one I use for my wife's Outback. There are a number of different fill adapters available for transmissions and differentials. The ones I have fit very well in 3/8" ID hose.

Once you have used this method to fill a transmission or diff, you will never want to go back to squeezing bottles or using a Harbor Freight transfer pump, or anything of that sort.

 

THANKS!!
Looks real nice.

 

Great wealth of info in this thread. I plan on making a garden sprayer fill pump and give this a try

 

I changed the fitting on my brake fluid pressure bleeder and used it to fill the trans. Hooked up my scan tool to the OBD port and let it dangle outside the drivers door so that I can read the trans temp while the car is on the lift.

This is one of those jobs that is easy enough, but there is enough of an air of mystery to it that we would be hesitant to do it without having access to youtube videos.

 

I have a 2016 E350 base with start/stop. Does the start/stop pump need to be removed to get the trans pan removed? If so, what other parts will the removal of the start/stop pump require?

 

MB makes lot of designs, but I did not have to drop the electric oil pump to drop oil pan on 7G+ in my 2014 OM651
Than I had inspection hole on the side of the pump, so when I drained TC, it created extra mess, but doable.
Than I have seen OM642 design where the pump had to go to access TC plug.

 

I had to. Here are instructions, shown at the end of this discussion.

https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...0-sport-2.html

 

I didn't see any mention of a gasket between the aux pump and the trans body. No gasket needed?

 

No gasket. The pump connects to the tranny through a pair of short pipes, one inlet and one outlet. These pipes fit up into the transmission and seal with o-rings around the pipes. One for each pipe.

I was unaware of the o-rings until I was well into the fluid change project, so just reused the old ones. No leaks. All is good. But it would be preferred to get replacements.

 

I used this pump I got at Napa for about $10 and some clear tubing from the Home Depot. It moves a lot of fluid, so it didn't even take that long. CTA adapter 7415, in case anyone needs it.

Edit: I think this is the same pump