2013 E550 Airmatic Rear Drooping on right side only
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
2013 E550 Airmatic Rear Drooping on right side only
I just picked up 2013 E550 with airmatic. Low mileage 37000 km .
After a few months the Right rear stared drooping overnight.
I replaced the right rear air spring with new unit from RMT. Still droops overnight. Just the right side.
Also the rear sits uneven. After fully pumped up the right side is at least an inch lower than the left. Is there any adjustment for this?. From what I read there is only 1 level sensor in the rear
Does this mean that the problem is still either the air spring or the line from the airspring to the rear distribution block.
I soaped up the connections on the airspring and the distribution block. No signs of leak around the connections.
Also where is best place to get replacement connectors (the push to fit unit that goes into the air spring- Voss or equal)
Darren
After a few months the Right rear stared drooping overnight.
I replaced the right rear air spring with new unit from RMT. Still droops overnight. Just the right side.
Also the rear sits uneven. After fully pumped up the right side is at least an inch lower than the left. Is there any adjustment for this?. From what I read there is only 1 level sensor in the rear
Does this mean that the problem is still either the air spring or the line from the airspring to the rear distribution block.
I soaped up the connections on the airspring and the distribution block. No signs of leak around the connections.
Also where is best place to get replacement connectors (the push to fit unit that goes into the air spring- Voss or equal)
Darren
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
I just picked up 2013 E550 with airmatic. Low mileage 37000 km .
After a few months the Right rear stared drooping overnight.
I replaced the right rear air spring with new unit from RMT. Still droops overnight. Just the right side.
Also the rear sits uneven. After fully pumped up the right side is at least an inch lower than the left. Is there any adjustment for this?. From what I read there is only 1 level sensor in the rear
Does this mean that the problem is still either the air spring or the line from the airspring to the rear distribution block.
I soaped up the connections on the airspring and the distribution block. No signs of leak around the connections.
Also where is best place to get replacement connectors (the push to fit unit that goes into the air spring- Voss or equal)
Darren
After a few months the Right rear stared drooping overnight.
I replaced the right rear air spring with new unit from RMT. Still droops overnight. Just the right side.
Also the rear sits uneven. After fully pumped up the right side is at least an inch lower than the left. Is there any adjustment for this?. From what I read there is only 1 level sensor in the rear
Does this mean that the problem is still either the air spring or the line from the airspring to the rear distribution block.
I soaped up the connections on the airspring and the distribution block. No signs of leak around the connections.
Also where is best place to get replacement connectors (the push to fit unit that goes into the air spring- Voss or equal)
Darren
But, if you actually have 4 sensors it could very well be sensor issue as you say the right rear is an inch lower when pumped up.
Last edited by Arrie; 06-12-2020 at 12:36 AM.
#3
Possibly a leak
I just picked up 2013 E550 with airmatic. Low mileage 37000 km .
After a few months the Right rear stared drooping overnight.
I replaced the right rear air spring with new unit from RMT. Still droops overnight. Just the right side.
Also the rear sits uneven. After fully pumped up the right side is at least an inch lower than the left. Is there any adjustment for this?. From what I read there is only 1 level sensor in the rear
Does this mean that the problem is still either the air spring or the line from the airspring to the rear distribution block.
I soaped up the connections on the airspring and the distribution block. No signs of leak around the connections.
Also where is best place to get replacement connectors (the push to fit unit that goes into the air spring- Voss or equal)
Darren
After a few months the Right rear stared drooping overnight.
I replaced the right rear air spring with new unit from RMT. Still droops overnight. Just the right side.
Also the rear sits uneven. After fully pumped up the right side is at least an inch lower than the left. Is there any adjustment for this?. From what I read there is only 1 level sensor in the rear
Does this mean that the problem is still either the air spring or the line from the airspring to the rear distribution block.
I soaped up the connections on the airspring and the distribution block. No signs of leak around the connections.
Also where is best place to get replacement connectors (the push to fit unit that goes into the air spring- Voss or equal)
Darren
The car sits uneven after replacing just the one airspring originally.
I ended up replacing both with new OEM Arnott airsprings.Yes, being both new installed at the same time. The car sits even and no more issues of it going down for years now
good luck!
#4
Junior Member
Did you figure this out? I'm in the middle of the same issue on a e550.
I hear the valve blocks can have internal seal leaks on some airmatic systems
Leveling wise, may need to recal it
I hear the valve blocks can have internal seal leaks on some airmatic systems
Leveling wise, may need to recal it
#5
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2011 E550 - 4Matic, 2008 ML550
Hi peeps,
I can give you a couple of key pointers as I just sorted this on my car too...
First - super basic understand - will make sense later on...
Air pumped into the system to the valve block
Valve block (via the leveling system) disperses air to each of the 4 corners (independently - this is key and a good thing)
If one corner is dropping you generally only have 3 items to check
1 - Airbag
2 - Valve block
3 - Line between
You can raise the car on given side - and switch out the airbag -
BUT After you have swapped airbag or airline etc - ONLY lower the car enough for the wheel to touch then start the car to allow it to re-pressurize the system
If you remove the valve block - then you need to support the entire car as all 4 corners will lose pressure.
When disassembling any of the components if you find water in the system - will need to recheck everything as water is BAD...
One option I did was - of amazon or ebay - but a 4mm airline valve kit with line etc - with a cut off valve - (like this - )
just unplug from the valve block and place it in between that and the current line...pressure\raise the car up, flip the cut off valve and wait overnight to see if it drops still...
if it does, its not the valve block...its the air line or airbag..
Of course all the above is in brief - like let air out slow - unplug battery - make sure car is safe to work on etc!
Hope that helps
I went with Arnott as they are the name to use out there and I can tell you their cust service is awesome hands down!
Great time to also check the Shocks - I switched mine for CLS63 AMG shocks - and the ride is now what I want -
On Comfort - its great
On sport its now a soft jack hammer
Cheers
JPC
I can give you a couple of key pointers as I just sorted this on my car too...
First - super basic understand - will make sense later on...
Air pumped into the system to the valve block
Valve block (via the leveling system) disperses air to each of the 4 corners (independently - this is key and a good thing)
If one corner is dropping you generally only have 3 items to check
1 - Airbag
2 - Valve block
3 - Line between
You can raise the car on given side - and switch out the airbag -
BUT After you have swapped airbag or airline etc - ONLY lower the car enough for the wheel to touch then start the car to allow it to re-pressurize the system
If you remove the valve block - then you need to support the entire car as all 4 corners will lose pressure.
When disassembling any of the components if you find water in the system - will need to recheck everything as water is BAD...
One option I did was - of amazon or ebay - but a 4mm airline valve kit with line etc - with a cut off valve - (like this - )
just unplug from the valve block and place it in between that and the current line...pressure\raise the car up, flip the cut off valve and wait overnight to see if it drops still...
if it does, its not the valve block...its the air line or airbag..
Of course all the above is in brief - like let air out slow - unplug battery - make sure car is safe to work on etc!
Hope that helps
I went with Arnott as they are the name to use out there and I can tell you their cust service is awesome hands down!
Great time to also check the Shocks - I switched mine for CLS63 AMG shocks - and the ride is now what I want -
On Comfort - its great
On sport its now a soft jack hammer
Cheers
JPC
The following users liked this post:
jg.abaitua (11-10-2020)
#6
Newbie
Thread Starter
Hi Quattrodude
Thanks ! This information is gold!!
I was planning on a similar approach using brute force method. I was going to run the car to get it all pumped up then on the tubing up near the spring end I was going to pinch the line tight with some visegrips with maybe old rubber inner tube over the vicegrip jaws to keep from totally destroying the tube (maybe) . Then next morning if the car is still up then that eliminates the airspring. But that valve kit you show is perfect!!! I am going to order 1 tonight.
I have a new Arnott A2791 on the way just in case. I had installed a new Arnott on the left side late last year and had no problems. The right air spring from RMT that I installed recently actually felt heavier and more robust than the Arnott unit.
The spring is surprisingly easy to install > About an hour in my driveway. The secret seems to be as I found out reading from another user is to put a small bottle jack to push the control arm down a bit to give more room to wiggle out the spring. Looks like from what I read on some other forums that older models required major dismantling of the rear suspension.
Thanks ! This information is gold!!
I was planning on a similar approach using brute force method. I was going to run the car to get it all pumped up then on the tubing up near the spring end I was going to pinch the line tight with some visegrips with maybe old rubber inner tube over the vicegrip jaws to keep from totally destroying the tube (maybe) . Then next morning if the car is still up then that eliminates the airspring. But that valve kit you show is perfect!!! I am going to order 1 tonight.
I have a new Arnott A2791 on the way just in case. I had installed a new Arnott on the left side late last year and had no problems. The right air spring from RMT that I installed recently actually felt heavier and more robust than the Arnott unit.
The spring is surprisingly easy to install > About an hour in my driveway. The secret seems to be as I found out reading from another user is to put a small bottle jack to push the control arm down a bit to give more room to wiggle out the spring. Looks like from what I read on some other forums that older models required major dismantling of the rear suspension.
#7
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: West Linn, Oregon
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2011 E550 - 4Matic, 2008 ML550
Hi Darren,
I grabbed two clamps from Harbor freight tools - switched the ends around - then used it as a spreaders - I extended it between the inner wheel well and the brake rotor with a thick towel on the inner wheel well to spread out the pressure.
Make sure you align it correctly on the top and there is a supplied peg that centers it...but if you did one already - you know this.
Good luck.
I grabbed two clamps from Harbor freight tools - switched the ends around - then used it as a spreaders - I extended it between the inner wheel well and the brake rotor with a thick towel on the inner wheel well to spread out the pressure.
Make sure you align it correctly on the top and there is a supplied peg that centers it...but if you did one already - you know this.
Good luck.
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#8
Newbie
Thread Starter
Fixed!!! . Voss 203 fitting quick connect
I bought two new fittings and a new length of 4mm tubing from rebuildmastertech.com. Fittings are Voss type 203 Finally got the gumption to tackle it yesterday.
my thought was either the line was leaking or one of the fittings was leaking at either the spring or at the solenoid block. So I replaced the line and put two new fittings in. One major tip. —————!!!!!!!!!!All of the literature tells you to make sure you get a nice square cut on the tubing before you insert it into the fitting.I Bought a proper tubing cutter to make a nice square cut. The problem is when you insert the tube into the fitting it gets hung up on the interlock ring of the fitting and doesn’t get a full penetration. The secret is to chamfer the ends of the tubing so it can get Fully inserted into the fitting.Once I figured that out the job was easy. You can see from the photo attach the factory Mercedes fitting install at the solenoid block and you can clearly see that Mercedes Chamfers the end of the tubing.Also I measured how far of insertion was required based on the factory Mercedes install. It is about 13/16 of an inch so I marked that with sharpie on the new tubing before I inserted to make sure I get to the proper depth.
my thought was either the line was leaking or one of the fittings was leaking at either the spring or at the solenoid block. So I replaced the line and put two new fittings in. One major tip. —————!!!!!!!!!!All of the literature tells you to make sure you get a nice square cut on the tubing before you insert it into the fitting.I Bought a proper tubing cutter to make a nice square cut. The problem is when you insert the tube into the fitting it gets hung up on the interlock ring of the fitting and doesn’t get a full penetration. The secret is to chamfer the ends of the tubing so it can get Fully inserted into the fitting.Once I figured that out the job was easy. You can see from the photo attach the factory Mercedes fitting install at the solenoid block and you can clearly see that Mercedes Chamfers the end of the tubing.Also I measured how far of insertion was required based on the factory Mercedes install. It is about 13/16 of an inch so I marked that with sharpie on the new tubing before I inserted to make sure I get to the proper depth.
The following 2 users liked this post by darren6060:
jg.abaitua (11-10-2020),
S. Madman (10-27-2020)
#9
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Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: FL
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2012 E550 sedan 2019 E63 Wagon
I bought two new fittings and a new length of 4mm tubing from rebuildmastertech.com. Fittings are Voss type 203 Finally got the gumption to tackle it yesterday.
my thought was either the line was leaking or one of the fittings was leaking at either the spring or at the solenoid block. So I replaced the line and put two new fittings in. One major tip. —————!!!!!!!!!!All of the literature tells you to make sure you get a nice square cut on the tubing before you insert it into the fitting.I Bought a proper tubing cutter to make a nice square cut. The problem is when you insert the tube into the fitting it gets hung up on the interlock ring of the fitting and doesn’t get a full penetration. The secret is to chamfer the ends of the tubing so it can get Fully inserted into the fitting.Once I figured that out the job was easy. You can see from the photo attach the factory Mercedes fitting install at the solenoid block and you can clearly see that Mercedes Chamfers the end of the tubing.Also I measured how far of insertion was required based on the factory Mercedes install. It is about 13/16 of an inch so I marked that with sharpie on the new tubing before I inserted to make sure I get to the proper depth.
my thought was either the line was leaking or one of the fittings was leaking at either the spring or at the solenoid block. So I replaced the line and put two new fittings in. One major tip. —————!!!!!!!!!!All of the literature tells you to make sure you get a nice square cut on the tubing before you insert it into the fitting.I Bought a proper tubing cutter to make a nice square cut. The problem is when you insert the tube into the fitting it gets hung up on the interlock ring of the fitting and doesn’t get a full penetration. The secret is to chamfer the ends of the tubing so it can get Fully inserted into the fitting.Once I figured that out the job was easy. You can see from the photo attach the factory Mercedes fitting install at the solenoid block and you can clearly see that Mercedes Chamfers the end of the tubing.Also I measured how far of insertion was required based on the factory Mercedes install. It is about 13/16 of an inch so I marked that with sharpie on the new tubing before I inserted to make sure I get to the proper depth.