CORRECTION. 18 July 2020 : I just found out today that my OBD bluetooth OBDLINK LX can not read transmission oil temperature data.
I choose what Torque App called Method 1, which is shows near mirror copy of coolant temperature.
I found out about this today by using wired scanner ICarSoft MB V2.0. My apology guys

31 July 2020
OBD2 protocol does not cover engine oil pressure & temperature and also does not cover transmission oil press + temp.
So ICarSoft MB V2.0 must have taken the trans temp info on the CanBus directly.
I am still looking for ways to get Torque App to request data to ECU or Trans Control Module ( if possible ) by using custom PID ( Parameter ID ) which can
work to get trans oil temp data from the car.

 

To update on more collateral damages......

01. The rear 265/35-18 michelin PS4 was so noisy at 160KM or higher . The track use caused the wear to be so un-even.
So I bought new tires already and new rims too and OEM rims get different ( lower cost ) tires for fun at track use.
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ket-wheel.html

02. I data log all maintenance and now I just realized I need to get Caster correction bolts for my suspension. So Camber correction bolts too, because these two values interact with each other.
To those wanting to know more of Camber/Caster correction bolts which are the same item, see MUD's post :
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...confusion.html

By using excel to get a left to right view as the car accumulate miles and whatever hard use, its easier to detect wear and tear.
===Corrected on 7 Aug 2020=== MB Target Caster data previously I typed as MINUS -6* 57' , it should be positive. Image below replaced with correct one



I will need to go back to the tire shop using my OEM AMG rims and the new tires, and see what will 9mm lower on rear height and without spacer/s translate to........ on the alignment data.
Probably next week I will go.

For now its quite obvious that my front caster is OFF. I doubt 5mm spacer can impact to the extend of 20-ish minute of arc change.
Or the rear height increase of 9mm effecting Caster to that extend.
I am sure primary cause is the abuse at the track

Rear Height increase information below


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Cough..cough...... just found out 1 more minor collateral damage
I was trying to inspect camber + caster bolts and I can see more suspension components from car bottom and with tires removed.



How about the link's ball joint free-play ? Seems soft to me compared to other but much bigger arm/strut ball joints.
So I want to compare to new one tightness to have a good known "virgin" reference.

9 right turn vs 2 left turn of this race track. So left side link done 450% more work, compared to right side link.

 

Suprise suprise, the sway bar link MB uses is made by a Japanese company
https://www.thk.com/?q=eng/node/256


Yep, boot is torn and ball joint kinda weak already

I think I best try aftermarket one, supposedly stronger and probaby stiffer... I hope
https://superpro.com.au/find/superpr...999501758/vid-

 

If you install this I am very interested in the results. I’d love to sharpen my turn-in a bit without compromising ride quality.

 

Hi CCWW,

Locally it is available for me, but at 2.4x USA price or US$260.
One of the best price in USA I googled US$110 : https://www.maperformance.com/produc...-w176-trc12245

Anyway, if I do import myself US$50 shipping and 30% tax CIF value......will be US$210-220 for me landed.

So got it today locally .





9 Aug 2020===CORRECTION. Seller gave me the 10mm ball joint version by mistake. By right I ordered a 12mm one. It was on store shelf no packaging anymore and seller was so swamped with work and did not measure ball joint thread end....LOL So tomorrow I will swap for the 12mm ones ========


My simple quickie review.

My left sway bar link, the torn ball joint (top) is SO WEAK already. The friction ball no more exert pressure and wiggling the threaded end of the ball joint.... the friction basically comes from the rubber boot. Say 100 grams.
The lower ball joint need a bit more pressure to wiggle, say 200 grams.
Spinning the threaded end round and round is easy. So the friction of the ball joints are basically gone.

The new SuperPro is reallly tight say 10 kilograms force, be it to wiggle the threaded end up and down or spinning it. Need wrench to spin, can't do by fingers.
Pushing down/up the ball joint I need to use my lower palm for stronger force and less pain.

I think for you in USA, the SuperPro price is a no brainer in terms of expected longevity vs MB original one.

Size alone, the total friction surface area of the MB's ball joint vs the SuperPro, I do not need to dismantle the rubber boot of the MB one, I can tell its probably only 40% of SuperPro.
As to how the suspension response will differ, I don't know yet, but my logic says that I might either get back brand new "tightness" feel when doing slalom or equivalent maneuver,
or the SuperPro I highly suspect will result in a more direct response aka better than MB original one. MB is probably targeting more for comfy "boat-like" feel, so can't blame MB design criteria.

Looking at the ball joint threaded end diameter of SuperPro being smaller than MB one for both the sway-bar and front strut mounting hole, I plan to source or make the bushing I shown.
The last thing I want is that ball joint threaded end ended up having freeplay within the "big" hole and make noise and/or equal to adding more freeplay.

Tomorrow I will measure with a caliper, what size of bushing ring OD and ID is needed for the strut and swaybar mounting holes to have a nice fitting with a "liner".

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Part number explanation 12 means ball joints 245 is the length of the middle rod being 245mm. Hence 12245
The ball joint itself at W212 length, still has easy 30mm more length to expand from its threaded shaft.

 

Thanks very much for the information! Looking forward to your driving impressions.

Definitely a good price in the US, although I’m a little hesitant considering your need to fabricate the custom part...

 

Machining is cheap in Jakarta/Indonesia. I will make extra bushings/liners. I can mail it to you by snail post if you ever need them (4 pcs).
A present for you.

 

Sorry C .... my bad
9 Aug 2020===CORRECTION. Seller gave me the 10mm ball joint version by mistake. By right I ordered a 12mm one. It was on store shelf no packaging anymore and seller was so swamped with work and did not measure ball joint thread end....LOL So tomorrow I will swap for the 12mm ones ========

Simple part number play : 12-245 or 10-245 , the middle rod is the same, only difference is the ball joint threaded end size 10mm or 12mm

So with 12mm size ball joint end, no need the custom bushing

 

Thank you for the very kind offer!!

Good to hear that the 12mm fits off the shelf though. For the low cost this may well be my next project after I finish up the acoustics one!

Still interested to hear your driving impressions when you get the chance, especially for things like lane change and initial turn-in.

 

Have not tested on the road yet the sway bar links. Wanted to do alignment today but it was raining and I dont want to dirty my undercarriage ... LOL




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.

 

Now, Caster and Camber correction bolt/s...............


Left wheel. Only CASTER correction bolt used.



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Right wheel get Caster and Camber correction Bolt



Target for Caster




Target for Camber, right wheel only



.
Camber correction bolt



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General information



To be continued..............

 

Standard Bolts vs Correction Bolts in pink circle



WIS data is confusing.
It does not tell what part number or type of correction bolt/s get the 120 or 100 Nm torque
Were there 2 version over the years ?
M14 x 120 x 11.9 , the 11.9 number I dont understand. Usually 11.9 meant bolt grade/strength.
Okey I got 11.9 stamped bolts for the correction ones, the nut shows number 12. Assumed it is a pair. So I decided to use 100 Nm torque.



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NOTE, in some other WIS, the Strut Rod item 200 is sometimes called TORQUE STRUT



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So, I was curious. What Newton Meter equivalent value is a 180 degrees turn after 100 Nm torque applied ?
To be continued in 3 days............ me wanna enjoy 2 days at the island starting in 8 more hours....

 

A side note............
I replaced the lower ball joints, both. They are not noisy or worn bad, it is just not virgin "TIGHT".
I can spin its shaft with my fingers. I don't like it.



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WIS is : AR33.20-P-0427EW Remove/install follower joint of steering knuckle bearing 27.11.15

END.

 

For complete and final write up on camber & caster correction bolts, go to : https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...adventure.html
These bolts themselves are an adventure on their own ... LOL.