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Engine Rattling - Help Needed Please!

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Old Aug 26, 2020 | 07:13 PM
  #1  
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E350 Sedan 4matic
Engine Rattling - Help Needed Please!

Hello everyone,

Long time lurker - was hoping that I could kindly request advice from members of the forum on my current issue.

I have a 2011 E350 4matic Sedan with roughly 114,000km/70,000miles on it and have noticed an engine rattling/knocking/thunking sound the past week.

Today, I have completed an oil change and replaced the upper and lower idler pulleys, belt, and tensioner (when i removed the upper, it was clearly shot as it fell apart in my hand). I torqued the following bolts: upper to ~25nm; lower to ~17nm; and the tensioner to 35nm.

I have only otherwise completed routine maintenance (spark plugs at 100,000km, filters, tranny and brake flushes at 110,000km, and a blower motor replacement twice).

It sounds like it is coming from the upper part of the engine, and not the belts.

Any guidance would be invaluable (fingers crossed this is not an expensive fix!).

Please see the following short video and I hope that you can make out the sound to which I refer (The sound seems most notable on the video at 28s and on):

Thank you all!
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Old Aug 27, 2020 | 03:50 AM
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FWIW my E350 makes the same noise and has done so for awhile. I asked an indy about it and like your video he said it was something in the front of the engine which I interpreted to mean something in the accessory drive. A little concerning that you replaced the likely culprits and it didn't go away. Not sure whether this is a safe thing to do or not but can you run it briefly with the serpentine belt removed to see if the sound disappears? From your video it sounds like it could be coming from what I'm guessing is the vacuum pump, but not finding anything in the searches which associates the vacuum pump and the knocking noise.

When I get some time I will pull the front cover as you have done and see what I can hear.

Last edited by MBNUT1; Aug 27, 2020 at 04:15 AM.
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Old Aug 27, 2020 | 08:44 AM
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You can run it for a few min without the belt - it may throw a CEL as ecu won't be seeing charge from the alternator.
Kind of seems located at passenger side timing chain cover area but that's a guess of course.
I use a stethoscope but easy enough to take a length of hose and place it at various points on the chain covers, valve covers, water pump, air pump etc. Please be cautious and don't get it wrapped around a spinning belt. Listen at the other end of the hose and it will help you isolate the noise. Bear in mind the injectors will be giving a soft ticking noise at all times.
You've got 2 cams on each head with associated lifters and timing chains, including 4 cam positioners on each head. So there's a number of possible noise sources. My car - same year and engine - has always been noisier on the passenger side right behind the chain covers but not excessively so.
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Old Aug 27, 2020 | 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by patek.wis
It sounds like it is coming from the upper part of the engine, and not the belts.
See attached bulletin (post VIN if you do not know your engine #) and read applicable thread, note post 35: https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ew-engine.html



Attached Files
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LI03.10-P-052286_Ver_3.pdf (34.6 KB, 258 views)
File Type: mp3
052286.mp3 (379.1 KB, 108 views)
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Old Aug 27, 2020 | 05:57 PM
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VIN WDDHF8HBXAA115230
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Old Aug 27, 2020 | 06:40 PM
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My engine number is:
272977 31 520015

So it looks like it is in the range. However, the date is March 11, 2010. So it is out of the date range (though it does say it may be outside the given date ranges anyway).
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Old Aug 27, 2020 | 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by pb39374
My engine number is:
272977 31 520015

So it looks like it is in the range. However, the date is March 11, 2010. So it is out of the date range (though it does say it may be outside the given date ranges anyway).

How did you find your engine number?
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Old Aug 27, 2020 | 07:36 PM
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What are the mechanics that convert a cylinder wall scratch into an idle knocking noise? Does it create a pressure imbalance across the piston that side loads the piston into the wall?

Last edited by MBNUT1; Aug 27, 2020 at 07:50 PM.
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Old Aug 27, 2020 | 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by MBNUT1
How did you find your engine number?
go here and put in your VIN. You’ll get your Data Sheet with the needed output.

www.datamb.com
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Old Aug 27, 2020 | 09:07 PM
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So what happens if it isn't fixed? My car runs fine and doesn't use any oil and the noise hasn't gotten any worse over the last year
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Old Aug 28, 2020 | 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by pb39374
My engine number is:
272977 31 520015

So it looks like it is in the range. However, the date is March 11, 2010. So it is out of the date range (though it does say it may be outside the given date ranges anyway).
Do you have the hot engine idle knock?

Last edited by MBNUT1; Aug 28, 2020 at 07:31 AM.
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Old Aug 28, 2020 | 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by MBNUT1
272977 31378532 within affected range, outside production range: “Affected vehicles are mostly in production dates from August 2010 to November 2010 but might be outside of this range.”
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Old Aug 28, 2020 | 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by konigstiger
See attached bulletin (post VIN if you do not know your engine #) and read applicable thread, note post 35: https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ew-engine.html
My engine is below, does this mean I may need a new engine outside of warranty? If so, might be time to punt this car... Sigh.

Engine: 272977 31 932667
VIN:
WDDHF8HB3BA491527

Last edited by patek.wis; Aug 28, 2020 at 09:49 AM.
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Old Aug 28, 2020 | 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by patek.wis
My engine is below, does this mean I may need a new engine outside of warranty? If so, might be time to punt this car... Sigh.

Engine: 272977 31 932667
VIN:
WDDHF8HB3BA491527
So the real question is do you need a new engine. I think that it is fair to assume that this is the issue and if it was in warranty Mercedes would replace the engine to make the knock go away. Having said that other than the knock noise what is the real consequence of just driving it. Which is really asking can you get more use out of it than the amount of money you would get if you sold / traded it in?
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Old Aug 28, 2020 | 12:29 PM
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Punt it.
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Old Aug 28, 2020 | 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by konigstiger
272977 31378532 within affected range, outside production range: “Affected vehicles are mostly in production dates from August 2010 to November 2010 but might be outside of this range.”
Thanks!
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Old Aug 28, 2020 | 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by MBNUT1
So the real question is do you need a new engine. I think that it is fair to assume that this is the issue and if it was in warranty Mercedes would replace the engine to make the knock go away. Having said that other than the knock noise what is the real consequence of just driving it. Which is really asking can you get more use out of it than the amount of money you would get if you sold / traded it in?
That's a good way to position it. I assumed since MB requires a new engine to be put in, it would logically follow that the defect would lead to catastrophic failure (or else why would they forfeit such cost). Does anyone actually know the ramifications?

Originally Posted by LILBENZ230
Punt it.
Thanks for your input, is this because you believe the defect would lead to short-term failure?
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Old Aug 28, 2020 | 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by patek.wis
That's a good way to position it. I assumed since MB requires a new engine to be put in, it would logically follow that the defect would lead to catastrophic failure (or else why would they forfeit such cost). Does anyone actually know the ramifications?
I'm not sure about your assumption about Mercedes motivation to changing the engine under warranty. The car is not performing per design intent ie if you bought one new it didn't make that noise at idle and you would have a legitimate claim to require them to restore it back to as purchased behavior. Replacing the engine is the most cost effective way for them to do that.
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Old Aug 28, 2020 | 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by patek.wis
Thanks for your input, is this because you believe the defect would lead to short-term failure?
I have driven over a year with this condition. I believe that there are others who have driven even longer. Now that doesn't mean that this can't lead to a short term failure or that you should hang onto the car.

It is an easier decision for me to keep mine because I have more miles (134K) on it than you so if it does fail I have less to lose and in my perverse way of looking at it, it may save me money in the long run because should that happen I will be convinced that Mercedes are no longer designed and built for durability and won't waste anymore money on another one outside of perhaps a vintage model.

Last edited by MBNUT1; Aug 28, 2020 at 10:17 PM.
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Old Sep 21, 2020 | 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by MBNUT1
I have driven over a year with this condition. I believe that there are others who have driven even longer. Now that doesn't mean that this can't lead to a short term failure or that you should hang onto the car.

It is an easier decision for me to keep mine because I have more miles (134K) on it than you so if it does fail I have less to lose and in my perverse way of looking at it, it may save me money in the long run because should that happen I will be convinced that Mercedes are no longer designed and built for durability and won't waste anymore money on another one outside of perhaps a vintage model.
Just to give everyone an update: I called MB Canada and they let me know that the TSB previously referenced does not apply to Canadian vehicles, and my car is not affected as such.

So looks like it may be the tensioner/check valve/chain/cam or something on that side.

Does anyone have a walkthrough for the W212 272.977 engine to remove the cover and change these items? Tried searching online but seems more towards the C-class and it seems that different components need to come off and therefore gaskets need to be replaced.

Thanks all
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Old Sep 28, 2020 | 12:09 AM
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Hello everyone!

Has anyone found the cause of this issue? I've had the same exact issue for 15 months and haven't had any problems. I noticed the rattle is barely noticeable (if at all) in the summer...During the colder months, it becomes louder. My friend also has the same rattle and has not found anything.

Keep me updated!

Danny
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