'11 E550 4matic Sedan, new to me, issues needing attention
#27
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Thanks guys...
The car came from Mass, so some corrosion to deal with. Not finished, as I'll need to drop the rear subframe... but that's for next winter. For now took car of the wheel wheels, spare tire well and rear underbody behind the bumper.
Before:
The car came from Mass, so some corrosion to deal with. Not finished, as I'll need to drop the rear subframe... but that's for next winter. For now took car of the wheel wheels, spare tire well and rear underbody behind the bumper.
Before:
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pierrejoliat (04-04-2021)
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2012 CLS63
Looks like a professional operation! Damn!
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Now the rear brake lines... ugh, one of them is really thinned down. *IF*, I get to taking the rear subframe down it'll make replacing them much easier. The rear underside really took the brunt of the corrosion, the middle and front are in really good shape... just a little surface rust here and there on the front subframe and suspension components.
#32
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Some of the rust certainly looks worse than it was. What started this was loose rear muffler heatshields, which rotted out around the metal nuts securing them to the body. You know... aluminum shield, zinc-coated steel body nut + salt water. Realistically I'd suspect another 10+ years before any actual penetration of the sheetmetal in certain areas. The rear subframe is bit rough at the front mounting points. I don't understand why they left a perfect and large opening for water and debris to enter the cavity of the subframe. All it would have taken is extending the wheelwell liner a tad down to cover the opening, IMO.
Now the rear brake lines... ugh, one of them is really thinned down. *IF*, I get to taking the rear subframe down it'll make replacing them much easier. The rear underside really took the brunt of the corrosion, the middle and front are in really good shape... just a little surface rust here and there on the front subframe and suspension components.
Now the rear brake lines... ugh, one of them is really thinned down. *IF*, I get to taking the rear subframe down it'll make replacing them much easier. The rear underside really took the brunt of the corrosion, the middle and front are in really good shape... just a little surface rust here and there on the front subframe and suspension components.
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2014 - W212.065 - E400 ( M276.820, 3 liter Turbo) RWD not Hybrid
I love post like this ..... Thanks BMW
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2012 CLS63
Never have had a BMW, but I've always admired the older 800's
#35
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Yes, my wife had a 2002, back in the late 70's, don't remember, wasn't interested in the car, LOL.
Edit; An old school chum from New Haven is "restoring" it, been in his garage in Laguna Beach for almost 40 years now.
I'll ask for photos, LOL
Edit; An old school chum from New Haven is "restoring" it, been in his garage in Laguna Beach for almost 40 years now.
I'll ask for photos, LOL
Last edited by pierrejoliat; 04-05-2021 at 02:03 PM.
#36
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the 2002 was a FUN little car to drive, kind of created the whole 'sports sedan' category, was heavily copied by things like the Datsun 510.
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#38
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we had a TR-6 too, a 71, great fun. even had the removable hard top for it. ours was actually quite reliable, the previous owner was a engineer, and he'd 'fixed' all the Lucas induced electrical gremlins with a healthy application of BOSCH relays and new wiring. Balancing those twin zeniths was fun.
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#39
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we had a TR-6 too, a 71, great fun. even had the removable hard top for it. ours was actually quite reliable, the previous owner was a engineer, and he'd 'fixed' all the Lucas induced electrical gremlins with a healthy application of BOSCH relays and new wiring. Balancing those twin zeniths was fun.
Last edited by pierrejoliat; 04-05-2021 at 02:56 PM.
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Dumb me started looking to buy one again to fart around with since I know them pretty well. My wife said are you a masochist? Yeah, I kind of am. Lol
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Not to derail, but I also bought a new TR7 convertible in 1980, and drove it daily for 4 years before the chicago winters started to decompose the body. It was amazingly comfortable for my 6’-3” frame. I replaced the head gasket no less than 4 times. I could never get it to seat properly even after milling, etc.
Dumb me started looking to buy one again to fart around with since I know them pretty well. My wife said are you a masochist? Yeah, I kind of am. Lol
Dumb me started looking to buy one again to fart around with since I know them pretty well. My wife said are you a masochist? Yeah, I kind of am. Lol
I remember you mentioning you had one couple years back. Also,I asked my buddy in Laguna Beach to send me a current picture of my wife's 2002, he sent me this:right color, but doesn't look right to me! he's 79 now, I'll try again.
EDIT; Wife came home, took one look and said "My car!" I stand corrected.
Last edited by pierrejoliat; 04-05-2021 at 07:33 PM.
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#42
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Some of the rust certainly looks worse than it was. What started this was loose rear muffler heatshields, which rotted out around the metal nuts securing them to the body. You know... aluminum shield, zinc-coated steel body nut + salt water. Realistically I'd suspect another 10+ years before any actual penetration of the sheetmetal in certain areas. The rear subframe is bit rough at the front mounting points. I don't understand why they left a perfect and large opening for water and debris to enter the cavity of the subframe. All it would have taken is extending the wheelwell liner a tad down to cover the opening, IMO.
Now the rear brake lines... ugh, one of them is really thinned down. *IF*, I get to taking the rear subframe down it'll make replacing them much easier. The rear underside really took the brunt of the corrosion, the middle and front are in really good shape... just a little surface rust here and there on the front subframe and suspension components.
Now the rear brake lines... ugh, one of them is really thinned down. *IF*, I get to taking the rear subframe down it'll make replacing them much easier. The rear underside really took the brunt of the corrosion, the middle and front are in really good shape... just a little surface rust here and there on the front subframe and suspension components.
Last edited by pierrejoliat; 04-05-2021 at 05:16 PM.
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How do the bushings for the rear subframe look, I can see my rotten brake lines, but I can't see the subframe mounts, my next oil change is due in 1400 miles, where I'll be on a lift next, that might take a few months with how things are right now. I agree, they could have covered the subframe end with the wheel liner.
Again, visually it looks bad... would take a while to cause issues.
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#44
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“ I'd recommend a ECU tune - that really helped the car”
Can someone reference the name of such a tune in Canada ... just in case I need a bit more power from my 2011 E550 4matic.
Can someone reference the name of such a tune in Canada ... just in case I need a bit more power from my 2011 E550 4matic.
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Another item to address is the wheels/tires... they had some gnarly rash, corrosion, bends and tire damage. Since the tires still have 60% life, I decided to source a set of [used] replacements for the 2 damaged ones. I dropped off the wheels at a local wheel refinishing/repair company (AWRS). The seller replaced the brakes [rotors/pads], but the rotors developed some rust on the hats... even though they were coated. Interestingly the rust was only on "half" the hat (around around the circumference).
Cleaned up the rust and painted the hats with VHT caliper paint, while at it also painted the caliper brackets which were looking a little shabby. Finally put in new Arnott rear air springs.
Cleaned up the rust and painted the hats with VHT caliper paint, while at it also painted the caliper brackets which were looking a little shabby. Finally put in new Arnott rear air springs.
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Got the wheels back, big improvement from what they were... but also a bit disappointed in the quality of the work. For $140/wheel... my expectations were too high even though they came recommended and have glowing reviews. When I called around, either the rate was around $140-175/wheel or a few shops in the $300-400/wheel range.
Finished up the paintwork and protection (body wax) on the rear of the car and have started buttoning it back up. Needed all new heat shields as the originals had rotted out around the mounting nuts.
Finished up the paintwork and protection (body wax) on the rear of the car and have started buttoning it back up. Needed all new heat shields as the originals had rotted out around the mounting nuts.
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[QUOTE=bmwpowere36m3;8317497]Got the wheels back, big improvement from what they were... but also a bit disappointed in the quality of the work. For $140/wheel... my expectations were too high even though they came recommended and have glowing reviews. When I called around, either the rate was around $140-175/wheel or a few shops in the $300-400/wheel range.
Finished up the paintwork and protection (body wax) on the rear of the car and have started buttoning it back up. Needed all new heat shields as the originals had rotted out around the mounting nuts.
Looks great! Wheels aren't bad, straightened is most important, pretty is second!
Finished up the paintwork and protection (body wax) on the rear of the car and have started buttoning it back up. Needed all new heat shields as the originals had rotted out around the mounting nuts.
Looks great! Wheels aren't bad, straightened is most important, pretty is second!