Engine surging 100-300 rpms
#26
MBWorld Fanatic!
I wouldn't trust a cheap mechanic to do Mercedes transmission work. In fact, I wouldn'[t trust a Mercedes specific indie unless they'd already done a LOT of these generations of 7G 4matics... instead, I would get a complete transmission from a reputable rebuilder like Sun Valley or Peter Schmid and swap it, sending your old one back as a core charge, and yes, the car needs to be re-coded to match the new trans.
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zenocchio (03-11-2021)
#27
Senior Member
As an owner of a 1994 sl-600, I have rebuilt the transmission myself. The front seal and bearing had failed suddenly. Seems like MBZ has gotten cheap and a lot of cars are having to replace the front pump and bearing.. They used to use a roller bearing on the input shaft.. Now they use a plain journal bearing--no antifriction bearing. And they went to all-aluminum for engine bell-housing and transmission housing. The combination of aluminum-aluminum joint allows too much flex in that joint for a plain journal--causing the shaft to flex and seize onto the input shaft. This wears the front seal surface/seal of the front plate on the transmission.
Anyway, rebuilding an MBZ transmission takes an EXPERIENCED, trained, and CERTIFIED MBZ rebuilder a solid 8 hours to accomplish. There are LOT AND LOTS of parts to clean, inspect, replace, renew, adjust in these transmissions. I would NOT TRUST a mechanic that was not familiar with and a Certified MBZ transmission mechanic in doing the rebuild, The Certified guys are authorized to restamp the number on the transmission as an MBZ REBUILT unit. Again, there are a LOT MORE parts to clean, inspect, and replace than a simple clutch disk replacement.
You should expect to pay 10-12 hours + $400 in parts minimum to rebuild your transmission--not including any remove/reinstall time. Any 'hard parts' that need replacement are extra and very expensive.
Anyway, rebuilding an MBZ transmission takes an EXPERIENCED, trained, and CERTIFIED MBZ rebuilder a solid 8 hours to accomplish. There are LOT AND LOTS of parts to clean, inspect, replace, renew, adjust in these transmissions. I would NOT TRUST a mechanic that was not familiar with and a Certified MBZ transmission mechanic in doing the rebuild, The Certified guys are authorized to restamp the number on the transmission as an MBZ REBUILT unit. Again, there are a LOT MORE parts to clean, inspect, and replace than a simple clutch disk replacement.
You should expect to pay 10-12 hours + $400 in parts minimum to rebuild your transmission--not including any remove/reinstall time. Any 'hard parts' that need replacement are extra and very expensive.
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#28
MBWorld Fanatic!
I just looked at Sun Valley.... this is their page on the 7G...
https://www.mercedesdismantlers.com/722%209.htm
$3500 exchange+freight (from Southern California), and this includes a pre-coded ETC, so whomever swaps it can just do a simple initialize of the rest of the car and complete the self-training. full 2 year warranty. I would also figure a shop locally would charge $1200 or so to swap the transmission, so you're looking at around $5000 total.
now, they don't mention the 722.96x 4Matic variant, those might be extra, their website is pretty old.
https://www.mercedesdismantlers.com/722%209.htm
$3500 exchange+freight (from Southern California), and this includes a pre-coded ETC, so whomever swaps it can just do a simple initialize of the rest of the car and complete the self-training. full 2 year warranty. I would also figure a shop locally would charge $1200 or so to swap the transmission, so you're looking at around $5000 total.
now, they don't mention the 722.96x 4Matic variant, those might be extra, their website is pretty old.
#29
Member
I just looked at Sun Valley.... this is their page on the 7G...
https://www.mercedesdismantlers.com/722%209.htm
$3500 exchange+freight (from Southern California), and this includes a pre-coded ETC, so whomever swaps it can just do a simple initialize of the rest of the car and complete the self-training. full 2 year warranty. I would also figure a shop locally would charge $1200 or so to swap the transmission, so you're looking at around $5000 total.
now, they don't mention the 722.96x 4Matic variant, those might be extra, their website is pretty old.
https://www.mercedesdismantlers.com/722%209.htm
$3500 exchange+freight (from Southern California), and this includes a pre-coded ETC, so whomever swaps it can just do a simple initialize of the rest of the car and complete the self-training. full 2 year warranty. I would also figure a shop locally would charge $1200 or so to swap the transmission, so you're looking at around $5000 total.
now, they don't mention the 722.96x 4Matic variant, those might be extra, their website is pretty old.
the exchange rate doesn't do good to us up north, so if I decide on a rebuild I will go with the local shop. they have been rebuilding transmissions for ages and the indie mercedes mechanic sends them all out to them so they have good experience with the MB platform. not sure if they are certified, but I will ask them before deciding.
My plan is to get the intake actuator replaced first, to take care of the P0521 code> i am getting the replacement actuators and levers from rockauto. I might be daydreaming, but I feel I better spend $50 in parts before committing to a $4000 transmission rebuild.
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Left Coast Geek (03-12-2021)
#30
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'11 E350, '11 E550, '98 M3, '95 E320
I just looked at Sun Valley.... this is their page on the 7G...
https://www.mercedesdismantlers.com/722%209.htm
$3500 exchange+freight (from Southern California), and this includes a pre-coded ETC, so whomever swaps it can just do a simple initialize of the rest of the car and complete the self-training. full 2 year warranty. I would also figure a shop locally would charge $1200 or so to swap the transmission, so you're looking at around $5000 total.
now, they don't mention the 722.96x 4Matic variant, those might be extra, their website is pretty old.
https://www.mercedesdismantlers.com/722%209.htm
$3500 exchange+freight (from Southern California), and this includes a pre-coded ETC, so whomever swaps it can just do a simple initialize of the rest of the car and complete the self-training. full 2 year warranty. I would also figure a shop locally would charge $1200 or so to swap the transmission, so you're looking at around $5000 total.
now, they don't mention the 722.96x 4Matic variant, those might be extra, their website is pretty old.
#31
MBWorld Fanatic!
and those .3 and .4 boxes used the much thicker red ATF... these 7G's use this very low friction blue ATF, its like slippery water.
But hey, the 722.3's in my W124's, those usually blew the reverse piston pack by the time they hit 150K miles. if you babied them you might get 200-220K miles before reverse went out, and if you were a leadfoot, 100K. warning signs are an increasingly slow D->R shift, when that takes 10 seconds to engage, you'd better plan for replacement/rebuild ASAP. OTOH, those 4 speed hydraulic slushboxes were only like $1800 for a top shelf rebuild, and $1000 labor to get swapped by a good shop, and no computer to reprogram, just adjust the throttle pressure cable and its ready to go.
But hey, the 722.3's in my W124's, those usually blew the reverse piston pack by the time they hit 150K miles. if you babied them you might get 200-220K miles before reverse went out, and if you were a leadfoot, 100K. warning signs are an increasingly slow D->R shift, when that takes 10 seconds to engage, you'd better plan for replacement/rebuild ASAP. OTOH, those 4 speed hydraulic slushboxes were only like $1800 for a top shelf rebuild, and $1000 labor to get swapped by a good shop, and no computer to reprogram, just adjust the throttle pressure cable and its ready to go.
#32
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'11 E350, '11 E550, '98 M3, '95 E320
and those .3 and .4 boxes used the much thicker red ATF... these 7G's use this very low friction blue ATF, its like slippery water.
But hey, the 722.3's in my W124's, those usually blew the reverse piston pack by the time they hit 150K miles. if you babied them you might get 200-220K miles before reverse went out, and if you were a leadfoot, 100K. warning signs are an increasingly slow D->R shift, when that takes 10 seconds to engage, you'd better plan for replacement/rebuild ASAP. OTOH, those 4 speed hydraulic slushboxes were only like $1800 for a top shelf rebuild, and $1000 labor to get swapped by a good shop, and no computer to reprogram, just adjust the throttle pressure cable and its ready to go.
But hey, the 722.3's in my W124's, those usually blew the reverse piston pack by the time they hit 150K miles. if you babied them you might get 200-220K miles before reverse went out, and if you were a leadfoot, 100K. warning signs are an increasingly slow D->R shift, when that takes 10 seconds to engage, you'd better plan for replacement/rebuild ASAP. OTOH, those 4 speed hydraulic slushboxes were only like $1800 for a top shelf rebuild, and $1000 labor to get swapped by a good shop, and no computer to reprogram, just adjust the throttle pressure cable and its ready to go.
#33
Time to give you all an update....the surging problem has been resolved...It was the torque converter kicking in and out....so a transmission rebuild kit, torque converter, fresh fluid, and a new filter and it's driving like new. Cost me $2700.00 and has a 3 year warranty on the work performed.
i am experiencing same issue and i read on mbworld that it is the torque converter that’s having issues and it does not display check engine light Here’s a video of the issue I am experiencing
#34
Hello all. I recently purchased an E-350 4matic sedan and after performing some much needed maintenance on it as it was so badly neglected, I am having the following issue. During normal acceleration the car is doing a few different things: sometimes it shudders between 3rd and 4th gears, other times it surges about 100-300 rpm as you can hear the engine surging and feel it in the seat of your pants. Once getting to the desired speed the motor continues to surge and you can verify it as the tachometer fluctuations match the surge. So far I've changed out spark plugs and coil packs, air filters, and cleaned the mass air flow sensor, performed the transmission reset procedure so it would get rid of the previous owners driving style and relearn my style, ..I've lurked all over these forum posts with no luck. Now under hard acceleration the car performs great but once you reach the desired speed of say 60-70 miles per hour the surging begins. Am taking it in to have the transmission fluid and filter changed out next week.....no check engine lights or any other lights associated with this condition....if the fluid and filter change don't work I'm going to take it in to the shop to have it scanned for codes.....Just wondering if anyone else had this issue and what fixed it? I was thinking something along the lines of maybe a bad throttle position sensor?
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BenzV12 (02-04-2022)
#35
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2011 E-350 4matic sedan and 1999 C230 Kompressor 4 door sedan
That's exactly what mine was doing and you could feel it in the seat of your pants.....on another note I ended up having issues with the car sticking in gear/going into limp mode? Well it ended up being a bad conductor plate. After having the conductor plate and valve body replaced it had 500 trouble free miles.....then the day I was taking it in to the transmission shop for it's 500 mile checkup it stuck in gear again....they started checking for bulletins on the car and sure enough there was a bulletin for some plastic piston inside the transmission that would cause this issue. The changed the piston and so far so good....the transmission has been out of this car 3 times now....the good news is...the third time was at no charge to me....so I took him 2 cases of beer to show my appreciation.