I'm having issues with the 2014 E350 4matic, during yesterday's cold weather driving car starts throwing various trouble lights with traction control, check engine, driver assistant issues. Just scanned the car and all trouble codes went away beside the n93 central gateway. Please help me with this issue, I checked the internet for the solution already but I didn't find clear instructions. Is that module located under the passenger side footwell?
N93 - Central gateway (CGW [ZGW]) -f-
Model Part number Supplier Version
Hardware 231 901 40 00 Bosch 10/20 01
Software 231 902 15 01 Bosch 12/16 80
Boot software --- --- 12/16 80
Diagnosis identifier 020302 Control unit variant BR231_MOPF212
Fault Text Status
U103888 Communication with the diagnostic CAN bus has a malfunction. Bus OFF S
Name First occurrence Last occurrence
Value of main odometer reading 86704.00km 86704.00km
Frequency counter --- 1
14 normally in foot well however, in EPC your VIN does show this (600 is grayed out) possibly because of early production date 3/21/13 seems CGW may be incorporated into front SAM (engine compartment). Check foot well to confirm this is correct if so pull SAM, inspect all connectors/connections. Related thread: https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...-location.html
The battery was fully charged and after disconnecting the power I re-scanned for codes again. Please see below, and please help me with the solution.
A40/8 - Audio/COMAND display (ZAN) -f-
Model Part number Supplier (Supplier ID) Version
Hardware 212 901 67 04 Johnson Controls (131) 11/50
Software --- Johnson Controls (131) 11/21 00
Software 204 902 20 03 Johnson Controls (131) 11/22 00
Diagnosis identifier 9/0 Software version 11/22 00
Control unit variant BR204MOPF_High_JCI Manufacturer-specific serial number 9377076
Fault Text Status
953D Signal "Low voltage differential" has an open circuit. S
Name First occurrence Last occurrence
Temperature --- 24.00°C
Voltage --- 11.40V
Frequency counter --- 1.00
Main odometer reading 86704.00km 86704.00km
Number of ignition cycles since the last occurrence of the fault --- 6.00
S=STORED
B84/3 - Backup camera (RFK) -f-
Model Part number Supplier Version
Hardware 000 901 77 02 Valeo 12/35 00
Software 204 902 80 03 Valeo 12/35 01
Boot software --- --- 12/35 00
Diagnosis identifier 000100 Control unit variant RVC204_000100
Fault Text Status
U016887 Communication with the electronic ignition lock has a malfunction. The message is missing. S
Name First occurrence Last occurrence
Frequency counter --- 4.00
Main odometer reading 86704.00km 86704.00km
Number of ignition cycles since the last occurrence of the fault --- 2.00
S=STORED
N93 - Central gateway (CGW [ZGW]) -f-
Model Part number Supplier Version
Hardware 231 901 40 00 Bosch 10/20 01
Software 231 902 15 01 Bosch 12/16 80
Boot software --- --- 12/16 80
Diagnosis identifier 020302 Control unit variant BR231_MOPF212
Fault Text Status
U103888 Communication with the diagnostic CAN bus has a malfunction. Bus OFF S
Name First occurrence Last occurrence
Value of main odometer reading 86704.00km 86704.00km
Frequency counter --- 1
08.02.2021 21:55:44 12/2020 WDDHF8JB5EA785400
Number of ignition cycles since the last occurrence of the fault --- 1
U103811 Communication with the diagnostic CAN bus has a malfunction. There is a short circuit to ground. S
Name First occurrence Last occurrence
Value of main odometer reading 86704.00km 86704.00km
Frequency counter --- 1
Number of ignition cycles since the last occurrence of the fault --- 1
U103212 Chassis CAN communication has a malfunction. There is a short circuit to positive. S
Name First occurrence Last occurrence
Value of main odometer reading 86704.00km 86704.00km
Frequency counter --- 3
Number of ignition cycles since the last occurrence of the fault --- 6
S=STORED
N123/4 - mbrace -f-
Model Part number Supplier Version
Hardware 231 901 22 01 Continental 11/41 00
Software 231 902 40 02 Continental 12/14 00
Software 231 902 70 02 Continental 12/41 00
Software 000 000 00 00 Continental 00/00 00
Software 231 902 41 02 Continental 12/14 00
Software 000 000 00 00 Continental 00/00 00
Software 172 902 02 00 After Market Supplier 11/24 00
Boot software --- --- 12/11 00
Diagnosis identifier 000102 Control unit variant PASS_CY12_SOP_BR222
Fault Text Status
B15D814 The cable for audio muting has a malfunction. There is a short circuit to ground or an open circuit. S
Name First occurrence Last occurrence
Voltage 11.70V 11.70V
Temperature 10.00°C 10.00°C
Frequency counter --- 1.00
Main odometer reading 86704.00km 86704.00km
Number of ignition cycles since the last occurrence of the fault --- 7.00
Fault freeze frame data for the development department --- 00 00 00 01 00 00 00
00 00 00 00 00
Year 2001.00year 2001.00year
Month June June
Day 24.00day 24.00day
Hour 20.00h 20.00h
Minute 40.00min 40.00min
S=STORED
A1 - Instrument cluster (IC) -i-
Model Part number Supplier Version
Event Text Status
B210A84 The power supply in the system is too low. There is a signal below the permissible limit value. S
Name First occurrence Last occurrence
Frequency counter --- 1.00
Main odometer reading 86704.00km 86704.00km
Number of ignition cycles since the last occurrence of the fault --- 2.00
S=STORED
08.02.2021 21:55:44 12/2020 WDDHF8JB5EA785400
Copyright 2019 Mercedes-Benz AG 212.088 Page '3' of '8'
A40/3 - COMAND APS (Head unit) --
Model Part number Supplier (Supplier ID) Version
Hardware 212 901 78 06 Mitsubishi Electric (133) 13/01
Software 212 902 24 08 Mitsubishi Electric (133) 13/03 02
Software 212 902 75 07 Mitsubishi Electric (133) 12/48 02
Diagnosis identifier 65/7 Software version 13/03 02
Control unit variant High_USA_Gen3 CBF HU45, V2.0.70
Everything was good during 30min test drive, all system works with no issues, then when I came back and started the car again in the garage codes comes back.
All the same codes came back? Did the cluster light up like a christmas tree? Any actual perceived issues? Besides, reading codes... does something not appear to be working?
I would suspect the main battery as you mention the problem occurred during cold weather, threw a bunch of systems offline (a strategy the car employs when voltages dips) and at least of one the codes references low power supply voltage.
New batteries seem to cure a lot of electrical gremlins, but its not a cure all. If it were me, my next step would be checking the main battery to ensure it 100%. How old is it? What the resting voltage with key off (at least 15 min)? Whats the voltage with the key on? Whats the voltage when you crank the engine (shouldn't dip below ~10VDC)? Whats the voltage when the engine is running? Can you load test the battery?
Suggest you look at a circuit diagram to verify all components are on the same electrical circuit. It appears that they are all on the same CANBUS/LINBUS circuit.
Basic is to check for power and ground continuity in the circuit and at the each module, including all connectors and wire integrity.
It appears that there's a problem in the CANBUS wiring possibly shorted to ground, like a chafed wire, bad connector etc. Problem is for most DIY they don't have a scope to check CANBUS communication waveforms. However the basic power/ground and wire/connector checks can still be done. I lean towards something like that since the modules are coming back on line but then suddenly dropping out.
Also suggest getting WIS/EPC that gives you factory repair info, diagrams and parts. Mine was a 4 CD eBay version about $15, takes about 64gb on my garage laptop. Well worth having.
That's the best I can offer, it's not going to be an internet fix, will take some time to look at stuff. Start with easiest module to get to to check for power/grounds but especially check harness and connectors.
Edit. - yes also to the battery check mentioned above. Don't run out and buy a battery check it first. I'm still thinking a circuit issue as the trouble happened again right after driving the car when the battery "should" be charged.
I have a couple of inexpensive scantools I keep in gloveboxes of our vehicles. They are handy to check battery voltage at rest, cranking, and running.
Suggest you look at a circuit diagram to verify all components are on the same electrical circuit. It appears that they are all on the same CANBUS/LINBUS circuit.
Basic is to check for power and ground continuity in the circuit and at the each module, including all connectors and wire integrity.
It appears that there's a problem in the CANBUS wiring possibly shorted to ground, like a chafed wire, bad connector etc. Problem is for most DIY they don't have a scope to check CANBUS communication waveforms. However the basic power/ground and wire/connector checks can still be done. I lean towards something like that since the modules are coming back on line but then suddenly dropping out.
Also suggest getting WIS/EPC that gives you factory repair info, diagrams and parts. Mine was a 4 CD eBay version about $15, takes about 64gb on my garage laptop. Well worth having.
That's the best I can offer, it's not going to be an internet fix, will take some time to look at stuff. Start with easiest module to get to to check for power/grounds but especially check harness and connectors.
Edit. - yes also to the battery check mentioned above. Don't run out and buy a battery check it first. I'm still thinking a circuit issue as the trouble happened again right after driving the car when the battery "should" be charged.
I have a couple of inexpensive scantools I keep in gloveboxes of our vehicles. They are handy to check battery voltage at rest, cranking, and running.
Anytime you disconnect the battery is a perfect time to check cable connections for corrosion. Poor connections can cause all sorts of gremlins , especially negative cable to engine and/or frame. Can read 12v but when car is on there may be enough voltage drop to cause trouble.
May look ok, but unless the whole thing is crusty its hard to see what happens on the side against the surface, especially steel to aluminum connections. Need to unbolt and clean to be sure.
Sometimes when a battery is swapped and everything works it's not necessarily the battery. When the terminal connections are removed and reinstalled they can create a freshly scraped surface, mostly restoring what was a poor connection. Or they were cleaned with a battery brush before reconnecting.
Problem solved, it was a battery. Thank you for helping me out.
For future reference, the battery was tested and the test went positive when we tested with no load. But there is another issue that caused the problems, system ECO start-stop. During eco re-startup, the Duralast battery can't hold the voltage, the OEM battery works perfectly.
Which aftermarket battery brand can you recommend? Original is on national back-order right now, they manufacturing them in China and all shipments are delayed.
Problem solved, it was a battery. Thank you for helping me out.
For future reference, the battery was tested and the test went positive when we tested with no load. But there is another issue that caused the problems, system ECO start-stop. During eco re-startup, the Duralast battery can't hold the voltage, the OEM battery works perfectly.
Which aftermarket battery brand can you recommend? Original is on national back-order right now, they manufacturing them in China and all shipments are delayed.
So which battery do you believe was at fault. The main starting battery or the additional smaller (ECO Start-Stop) battery?
The way you worded it regarding the ECO start-stop made it confusing... Champion AGM batteries get good reviews, can be had at Pepboys in whatever flavor is our battery H6, H7 or H8.
I've had very good results on my last half dozen vehicles that use Group 48 and 49 batteries with East Penn "Deka" brand batteries, which are 100% made in USA... I believe the correct one for a W212 is the 9A49 (H8/L5, Group 49) Intimidator AGM Automotive Battery 850 CCA. My local auto parts minichain that is a member of the Parts+ network stocks these here, so you might check the indie parts shops, assuming you have any.
I just replaced the battery in my 2015 E400 with a DieHard. Dealer said that even the OEM MB batteries have been on back order for months, and they have no "in stock" date for the MB parts.
diehards can be exide or johnson control or even in some sizes deka. its kind of a potluck. since the sears empire has crashed, its just a brand name without the former semi-reliable Sears warranties behind it.
Problem solved, it was a battery. Thank you for helping me out.
For future reference, the battery was tested and the test went positive when we tested with no load. But there is another issue that caused the problems, system ECO start-stop. During eco re-startup, the Duralast battery can't hold the voltage, the OEM battery works perfectly.
Which aftermarket battery brand can you recommend? Original is on national back-order right now, they manufacturing them in China and all shipments are delayed.
Beautiful car tool... says you have a hard CAN short to (+). That's a bit unusual unless water intrusion got a chance to work its magic (SAM, BlindSpots,..)
Split all branches apart to identify culprit module shorted branch: L side vs. R side
Usual shorts are to GND... Benz shorts are better: (+)
Beautiful car tool... says you have a hard CAN short to (+). That's a bit unusual unless water intrusion got a chance to work its magic (SAM, BlindSpots,..)
Split all branches apart to identify culprit module shorted branch: L side vs. R side
Usual shorts are to GND... Benz shorts are better: (+)
this CAN strip only provides GND... why replace it when searching for a short to (+)? I know nothing's simple but try to stay in-course, be sure not to introduce extra problems in the mix.
Use these strips to unplugg CAN branches until you have identified which module is shorted to (+) as DTC suggest. This procedure should deliver joy here.
