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My trunk actuator stopped working. I cannot open the trunk via remote, driver side panel button or trunk handle. All it makes is a clicking sound. I tried inserting the key to manually open the trunk but no luck. Is there any way to access the trunk besides breaking the lock? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Did you try lifting up on it? Sometimes it vacuums down the lid so that it doesn't pop up, but if you lift, it should still open. Otherwise on the key, not sure if you're using it right, you might have to turn it and lift it while it's turned.
The skeleton key is tricky to use, you must turn it all the way, one way locks so find that first, then turn the other way pretty far, sometimes it helps to have a key ring on the skeleton key to facilitate this, wouldn't hurt to lubricate prior to turning key either.
Did you try pressing down hard on the trunk while pressing the fob? Maybe the latch moved somehow. Maybe a battery disconnect reset? A .45 slug directly into the lock, with a yee-ha!
Mechanical blade suppose to open the trunk without electricity.
It is common with remotes that mechanical tumblers get gummed up from no use, but a can of WD40, some napkins and a lot of patience will make them working again.
Once you done with WD40, wipe it off and use graphite lubricant.
I always keep a rag handy to wipe up any drips, squirt a little in the lock, dribble a little on the key, then run the key in and out a bunch of times before turning it, then turn it back and forth a bunch to ensure the stuff spreads everywhere inside before the carrier evaporates and leaves just the graphite.
Thanks for the suggestions. I broke the middle access panel behind the cup holder to access the green emergency button. Unfortunately that did not work all I heard was a spinning of the actuator. I sprayed the key hole with some WD40 fast drying electrical spray and inserted and rotated the key CCW. still no luck. I kept pushing the button and having someone lift up the trunk. Still no luck. I tried to lock/arm the car then turned the manual key CCW and kept lifting the trunk. Fortunately the trunk opened and the alarm sounded. I took apart the actuator and a piece of plastic dropped. Needless to say I'll be swapping this out for a new one. Sorry for the long story. Thanks again. I thought I was going to have to make a trip to the stealership for repair.
Thanks for the suggestions.
I took apart the actuator and a piece of plastic dropped. Needless to say I'll be swapping this out for a new one.
... Thanks again. I thought I was going to have to make a trip to the stealership for repair.
You reconquered your trunk and saved a nice tab for a weekend out of town !!👏
Now you can post your fixing the failed actuator?
What would you say caused the latch to pop a plastic chunk... any pictures?
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; May 30, 2021 at 02:40 PM.
while I had my dirty hand on, I took a stab at my noisy trunk latch
Trunk mechanism has 3 sub-components:
1-- moving side catch & release
2-- fixed side latch & close
3-- trunk lid motor
I think OP solved an issue with #1. Here I deal with the receiving end: the noisy No2 mechanism.
This is a good item to deal with around 60 to 80kMi.
Main issue: lack of any lube in key places...pivot points, shaft bearings and the like. motorised cable puller
the output shaft has ZERO LUBE on the load side 😏
tough latch 'n lock with dry pivots
this metal part is the business end of the trunk lock. It is tasked with squeezing down the surrounding trunk seal. It's pretty easy to maintain it even without pulling any plastic cover....
5mn easy maintenance:
shower this clunky assembly with a spay can of dry lithium grease. Specially the right side with the 2 spring loaded shafts.
When the lock is allowed to operate more smoothly, the plastic cable puller with see a longer lifespan.
(To remove your threshold plastic liner pull up to release 4 plastic snaps then unscrew 2x plastic #10 nuts at the bottom end.)
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; May 31, 2021 at 03:58 PM.
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