leftiesrule

Genius!

leftiesrule

I finally figured this out. Turns out there's a secondary lock for each terminal that needs to be lifted in addition to the primary lock on top and bottom of each terminal.

You can see the following tool has the 2 prongs for top/bottom primary lock as well as a 3rd prong on the side to lift the secondary lock.
https://www.automotive-connectors.co..._store=english

I ended up using 2 tools from the cheapo set, one with a single prong to lift the secondary and another with two prongs to release the primary.

Hopefully you can see the secondary lock lifted in this picture. I marked in red where you'd need to insert the single blade to lift that secondary lock.

S-Prihadi

Sweet !! Good info , thank you.
So the connector housing itself has a lock, not only the 2 metal tounge of the terminal.
Such a unique 3 prong tool. I may need to get one...he he he he.

I bought 200 MLK 1.2 terminals male & female from Deytrade Jan of 2022.
Their price is very good.
Via German Post, slow but okey.

dantm2000

Hi guys, I had this issue with replacing my coil packs and two of the black pieces flew out before I figured out how to use the toothpick trick. With the toothpick and a tiny amount of teflon lube spray before unlatching the remaining connectors came out by hand with no effort.

But for the 2 that are now latching back in but not really holding tight is there a possibility to replace the inner black piece inside the connector without touching/altering the harness and swapping the *entire* connector?

Thank you all!

S-Prihadi

U mean the 2 black pieces I marked in green below ?


If they are the ones you meant, you must buy new connector assy. No other way.
That is a very important secondary lock.

dantm2000

This black rectangular piece broke off so only the grey top lock is in place...connector closes ok but does not click/latch as original.


Thanks,


Dan

S-Prihadi

ohh ....that is the main lock for connector to be able to stay good and secure to the COP side connector . That one if damage/broken, you must buy new connector .
You can buy from MB direct. The MB P/N should be there, it is made by KOSTAL.
Or buy from here : https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ng/0005458912/

Here is from my purchase to MB Indonesia



The proper Kostal SLK2.8 terminal removal tool is discussed here :
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ning-tool.html

.

dantm2000

Thank you so is it just a matter of pushing back the pins from the old connector and swapping in the new one?

What is the best tool to use to push back the pins, is there a definite link? I do not want to screw up the harness or need to re-crimp/re-solder pins...

dantm2000

I found this -- is there anything simpler/cheaper that works good?

S-Prihadi

The SLK 2.8 terminal locking ear or latch, or whatever it is called, is wide. That is the problem for the removal tool, as it is not an easy shape to make cheap or from a single piece metal.
You seems to have not read the link I given you at last post, I too gave up trying to get a low cost version : https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ning-tool.html


You best also get something low cost from China as general push tool, example to pry that 4 small plastic latches-lock at each female terminal cavity,
See post #54 for its general useful-ness
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post8840108

dantm2000

I'm thinking of getting a complete set of these pin removal tools -- I think what you showed should be included here?

S-Prihadi

Yes, I have those low cost multi shaped de-pinning tools. They break and bent easy.
They are decently useful on certain connectors but it can not be used with confidence as primary tool

priusux

please share what the tooth pick trick is. I have 4 of 6 off. Seems like I am spending about an hour on each to get connector off coil pack.