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I had iCarsoft showing me bogus data on DPF regeneration.
After spending some time for driving cycle required for regeneration, the scanner show me filter load close to 0, but after restarting everything, the number did not change from before regeneration.
That is why I did not hesitate to spend $49 when Autel dongle come on the market.
Would you mind sharing the model number for the Autel dongle?
I am also looking at the OpenPort 2.0 (TacTrix) dongle of which there are 3 versions: old black one, new gold A and new gold B. A bit of research ahead before committing to installing the Xentry pass-thru Surya (Prihadi) posted. Rebuilt laptop for Xentry only use waiting in the garage.
I think it is correct as per BMW that the iCarsoft is the one producing the wrong information.
If W212 can communicate with N70/OCP and get correct N70b1 data, there is no reason N22/7 HVAC can't do the same.
Same CAN B highway used.
Maybe iCarsoft implementation of the A22/7 is based on non-CAN BUS N70 (like my car ) where there are hardwires for the N70b1 NTC positioned at N70 but owned by N22/7 HVAC.
So -50C value is NO DATA value aka no-connection, as iCarsoft expected OP's N22/7 HVAC to have that data by hardwires.
Good thing OP's N70 is of CAN-BUS type and can produce the N70b1 temperature data.
Can you check again the n70b1 icarsoft reading with engine is running and ac is ON (set to LOW) please ?
Here is the data after a short ride (AC set to LO, Blower to Max)
AC module:
B10/4 78.98 F
B10/6 37.58 F
B10/31 44.05 F
B10/32 44.06 F
B10/35 54.50 F <-- is this expected?
B10/36 68.9 F <-- Same?
B11/4 186.80 F
B14 106.70 F
N70b1 -58.F
RPM 1966
Power Consumption 0.7 A
Refrigerant Pressure 221.91 PSI
B10/35 54.50 F <-- is this expected?
B10/36 68.9 F <-- Same?
Above is Left and Right footwell temp sensor. Usually it is hotter a bit, 1st is from firewall heat and 2nd is by longer distance from EVAP core and poorer insulation.
B10/31 Left side air outlet temperature sensor
B10/32 Right side air outlet temperature sensor B10/35 Left front footwell air outlet temperature sensor
B10/36 Right front footwell air outlet temperature sensor
B10/4 Interior temperature sensor
B10/6 Evaporator temperature sensor
After engine shut down, I notice reading these 2 sensors I get approx 2-3C hotter than the rest.
Here is the data after a short ride (AC set to LO, Blower to Max)
AC module:
B10/4 78.98 F
B10/6 37.58 F
B10/31 44.05 F
B10/32 44.06 F
B10/35 54.50 F <-- is this expected?
B10/36 68.9 F <-- Same?
B11/4 186.80 F
B14 106.70 F
N70b1 -58.F
RPM 1966
Power Consumption 0.7 A
Refrigerant Pressure 221.91 PSI
OCP Module
Temperature interior 70.25 F
Fan ON
Hope the above helps,
Thanks juanmor. Your data set is very helpful. My one is more or less the same except b10/6 (evaporator temp) is 90F and refrigerant pressure only 170 bar.
I suspect my freon level is low but not hitting the warning limit.
My next step is to do some gauge measurements on the low and high side pressure values in a workshop.
Will update. Thanks
My next step is to do some gauge measurements on the low and high side pressure values
Make that the FIRST step from now on when working with AC. I don't care how many sensors it has, throw gauges on it Lol
You have a leak. Pretty simple. Leaks cause all kinds of not-working AC stuff. Since you're lucky enough to still have pressure in the system, start spraying down your connections with soapy water. These cars are getting old.
Once you find the leak and fix it, pull vacuum and throw an exact charge in it. I think it's 21oz or something. Check the core support or wherever it is. I say exact charge so you have an absolute baseline. If you don't know exactly what you put in it, you'll chase pressures forever. Fun, if you have nothing better to do, otherwise not so much.
I always start AC troubleshooting with sensor calibration test. Depends on MY it may take 90 seconds and answers above 90% of the questions.
Very seldom there is an issue that sensor test will not answer.
This topic is so stirred, that I can't make sense out of it.
Hi all, thank you so much for your support and advice in my journey of bad ac. The ac works again now after having a recharge of refrigerant in weekend. The low and high side pressure were just 2 bar and 12 bar garage before the recharge.
I am in luck, the ac do not have any complicated problem and also, I can learn a lot in MB ac system and electronic, as well as doing ac health check.
For your reference, the refrigerant pressure is now around 14 to 15 bar when ac is on. The evaporator temp is about 8c. The air blowing out is ice cold.... : )
Thanks once again. The MBworld is full of knowledgeable, helpful and nice people. Happy driving all!
Hi all, thank you so much for your support and advice in my journey of bad ac. The ac works again now after having a recharge of refrigerant in weekend. The low and high side pressure were just 2 bar and 12 bar garage before the recharge.
I am in luck, the ac do not have any complicated problem and also, I can learn a lot in MB ac system and electronic, as well as doing ac health check.
For your reference, the refrigerant pressure is now around 14 to 15 bar when ac is on. The evaporator temp is about 8c. The air blowing out is ice cold.... : )
Thanks once again. The MBworld is full of knowledgeable, helpful and nice people. Happy driving all!
You still have a problem, and it's the same problem I mentioned in my post, #83.
Small leaks who takes months to drain system are not detectable with soapy water. I use dye when I suspect leaks and that is the easiest way.
14 to 15 bars max is still low pressure.
The system should max in high 20's of bars, when stabilizing at at least 17 bars after some time. My evaporator reads 2-3C most of the time.
8C is not ice cold, so sounds like Placebo effect tinted the judgement.
Small leaks who takes months to drain system are not detectable with soapy water. I use dye when I suspect leaks and that is the easiest way.
14 to 15 bars max is still low pressure.
The system should max in high 20's of bars, when stabilizing at at least 17 bars after some time. My evaporator reads 2-3C most of the time.
8C is not ice cold, so sounds like Placebo effect tinted the judgement.
We may need the OP clarify how the recharge was done, i.e. evacuated and refill it to specs? or just added until they got "right pressures" or "cold enough".
From my measurements, the evaporator temperature matches yours as well, i.e. 37.6F -> 3.1 C.
===========
Separately: I tested a temporary update of the iCarSoft software, but issue still remains waiting for next feedback..
Small leaks who takes months to drain system are not detectable with soapy water. I use dye when I suspect leaks and that is the easiest way.
14 to 15 bars max is still low pressure.
The system should max in high 20's of bars, when stabilizing at at least 17 bars after some time. My evaporator reads 2-3C most of the time.
8C is not ice cold, so sounds like Placebo effect tinted the judgement.
I can find any leak, in any pressurized system with soapy water.
We may need the OP clarify how the recharge was done, i.e. evacuated and refill it to specs? or just added until they got "right pressures" or "cold enough".
From my measurements, the evaporator temperature matches yours as well, i.e. 37.6F -> 3.1 C.
===========
Separately: I tested a temporary update of the iCarSoft software, but issue still remains waiting for next feedback..
The recharge is just a simple refill in a workshop. I am planning to go to MB dealer for an evacuated one when doing annual check in early next year.
8 degree C is measured when the engine was running for just a few minutes. Will have a check of evaporator temp again after driving for an hour or so.
You still have a problem, and it's the same problem I mentioned in my post, #83.
For future searchers:
Post #2 is the solution to this thread.
This is interesting. The car has A/C working on the driver's side or at least giving some cooling on driver's side and adding refrigerant makes the A/C work on both sides again.
Is there a logic in the system that when A/C cooling capasity is compromised cool air is directed only to the driver's side?
This is interesting. The car has A/C working on the driver's side or at least giving some cooling on driver's side and adding refrigerant makes the A/C work on both sides again.
Is there a logic in the system that when A/C cooling capasity is compromised cool air is directed only to the driver's side?
Evaporator with low charge is getting colder on 1 side and that makes uneven cooling distribution.
Well known fact since W210 era.
W212 are much newer cars, so those problems only begin to be common.
Evaporator with low charge is getting colder on 1 side and that makes uneven cooling distribution.
Well known fact since W210 era.
W212 are much newer cars, so those problems only begin to be common.
What do you mean with one side on the evaporator? The tubing runs sig-sag thru the coil and I think it is all the same. Air from the coil is mixed and directed with flapper valves from the common air source thru the coil.
Just wondering about the logic of directing cool air to the driver under limited cooling condition as in this case cooler air comes out on right side that happens to be the driver’s side. There has been many cases in the forum where the cooler air comes out in the left side and I think all of these are left side drivers.
I would really not be surprised if Mercedes build a control logic like this as they sometimes seem to think about situations that you would not.
I would really not be surprised if Mercedes build a control logic like this as they sometimes seem to think about situations that you would not.
I think you're on to something! The car auto-diverts cold air to driver under certain parameters, makes total practical sense! Gotta love German engineering!
Evaporator with low charge is getting colder on 1 side and that makes uneven cooling distribution.
Well known fact since W210 era.
Sources please, as this makes no sense.
No evap coil I've ever seen (thousands, including commercial, residential, auto, etc.) has ever gotten "colder on 1 side" than the other. @Arrie explains basic coil design in his #95 post. W210 guys don't have a clue what they are talking about. I'd also be more inclined to believe that Benz would have been alerted to and rectified such a "well known fact"/issue long before the first 210 rolled off the line, much less within the span of three generations.
I agree with Arrie; The BCM is reacting to data from the ten thousand sensors and actuating dampers automatically to focus on the driver under fail mode situations. One of those things that makes so much sense, you wonder why you never though of it yourself!
This is different kind of radiator, but shows pretty clearly heat distribution.
Zig zack flow will do similar.
Your picture shows an old fashioned house heating radiator that has nothing to do with what cars A/C systems are built with and absolutely DOES NOT provide similar heat distribution. Your example is a parallel tubes connection while the heat exchangers in cars A/C systems are a single tube in "series" connection. And your picture is a "sales man's pitch" as without individual control valves in each leg it is not possible to have exactly the same heat exchange thru every tube. Situation in picture is not really possible in real world and from my own experience I can tell the far end of the radiator from the connections can run cooler during cold winter days.
A parallel tubes connection in cars does exist in the front of the car as the engine cooling radiator is built like that and it can have different temperatures and heat exchange ratios across the tubes but this has nothing to do with A/C.
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