M278 engine mounts.








The tranny mount is the first in line to get spent by the output torque. Unless it has been replaced recently, you need all 3 rubber mounts.
Next consider your prop-shaft rubber couplings + ball bearing stressed by tranny wobbling.
While you're here... note that ENGINE VIBRATIONS ARE NOT CAUSED BY BAD MOUNTS. Don't get ropped in to spend expert money for monkey work, one job after another.
In Park/Neutral rev up your engine around 1300 RPM and hold it there: any shaking or nicely steady??
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Oct 26, 2022 at 10:56 PM.




The tranny mount is the first in line to get spent by the output torque. Unless it has been replaced recently, you need all 3 rubber mounts.
Next consider your prop-shaft rubber couplings + ball bearing stressed by tranny wobbling.
While you're here... note that ENGINE VIBRATIONS ARE NOT CAUSED BY BAD MOUNTS. Don't get ropped in to spend expert money for monkey work, one job after another.
In Park/Neutral rev up your engine around 1300 RPM and hold it there: any shaking or nicely steady??
I know this is an E63, but the layout is the same for the M278/M157 with 4MATIC. Would an apprentice be able to handle this? Nothing ill on my tone, just asking. I don't even consider myself a beginner.




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a4Kt...l=ExoticCarDIY




Missed axxiom's message, was looking at RosSauce.




Wrenching modern cars requires torque values from muscle memory or from WIS. Some nuts are 80Nm, some are 5Nm -
Jumping to mounts for vibration is the wrong diagnosis.
When vibrations remain ppl question aftermarket parts and redo the job with genuine parts for next to no improvement.
That's not to say rubber mounts don't go bad, they sure are split when engine floats loosely.

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