Should I do maintenance based on mileage or time?
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Joined: Jan 2021
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E350
Should I do maintenance based on mileage or time?
My 2016 E350 is due for an A7 service.
A quick Google search says it includes automatic transmission oil & filter replacement - A7 Service
Maintenance booklet says transmission oil & filter is replaced every 60,000 miles / 6 years.
My car only has 39,000 miles (I don't drive much).
Is there any reason I should stick w/ the 6 year recommendation, or can I wait till 60,000 miles?
On a different, but similar subject - my wife only drives her car < 3,000 miles a year.
Should we change engine oil & filter on that car every year, or only at certain mileage intervals?
A quick Google search says it includes automatic transmission oil & filter replacement - A7 Service
Maintenance booklet says transmission oil & filter is replaced every 60,000 miles / 6 years.
My car only has 39,000 miles (I don't drive much).
Is there any reason I should stick w/ the 6 year recommendation, or can I wait till 60,000 miles?
On a different, but similar subject - my wife only drives her car < 3,000 miles a year.
Should we change engine oil & filter on that car every year, or only at certain mileage intervals?
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1983 Nissan Shltbox
You should stick with whatever the manual states as it was written by the manufacturer. And it also covers questions like your latter. Half the threads on any auto forum wouldn't exist if people just read their Owner's manuals.
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W212 FL
Whichever comes first because oil also degrades over time no matter how rare the car is driven .I don't even want to talk about engine oil , 1 year is maximum for replacement regardless of mileage and regardless of its components
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From: Dallas-Ft.Worth,TX
2016 E350 Sport
My 2016 E350 is due for an A7 service.
A quick Google search says it includes automatic transmission oil & filter replacement - A7 Service
Maintenance booklet says transmission oil & filter is replaced every 60,000 miles / 6 years.
My car only has 39,000 miles (I don't drive much).
Is there any reason I should stick w/ the 6 year recommendation, or can I wait till 60,000 miles?
A quick Google search says it includes automatic transmission oil & filter replacement - A7 Service
Maintenance booklet says transmission oil & filter is replaced every 60,000 miles / 6 years.
My car only has 39,000 miles (I don't drive much).
Is there any reason I should stick w/ the 6 year recommendation, or can I wait till 60,000 miles?
I've replaced too many transmissions (other brands, not MB) due to ham-fisted techs who power flush trannies, only to have dislodged particulate matter destroy the mechanics. So, the fewer number of exposures to such antics works for me.
So, I consider 60,000 to be a "precautionary" suggestion... my C320 went WELL BEYOND 60,000 miles without any problems at all.
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From: Sammamish, WA
2011 E350 Wagon, 2010 GL450
So don't power flush them. It's not advisable to do so unless it's already having problems and you've got nothing to lose. But doing a pan drop and simply filling it up with fresh fluid isn't hard on the transmission unless it's already way overdue. If a fluid change kills your transmission, it wasn't long for this world anyway.
All fluids have a shelf life. If you run that fluid longer than what's advised, it's breaking down and not performing as well as it needs to. It'd be like drinking a Pepsi from the 80s. There's a chance the food poisoning won't be too bad, but why risk it?
All fluids have a shelf life. If you run that fluid longer than what's advised, it's breaking down and not performing as well as it needs to. It'd be like drinking a Pepsi from the 80s. There's a chance the food poisoning won't be too bad, but why risk it?
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From: FL
2012 E550 sedan 2019 E63 Wagon
So don't power flush them. It's not advisable to do so unless it's already having problems and you've got nothing to lose. But doing a pan drop and simply filling it up with fresh fluid isn't hard on the transmission unless it's already way overdue. If a fluid change kills your transmission, it wasn't long for this world anyway.
All fluids have a shelf life. If you run that fluid longer than what's advised, it's breaking down and not performing as well as it needs to. It'd be like drinking a Pepsi from the 80s. There's a chance the food poisoning won't be too bad, but why risk it?
All fluids have a shelf life. If you run that fluid longer than what's advised, it's breaking down and not performing as well as it needs to. It'd be like drinking a Pepsi from the 80s. There's a chance the food poisoning won't be too bad, but why risk it?
That was such a good analogy.
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From: Northwest Illinois
2014 E350 also restored: 1969 Camaro convertible SS 1957 Chevy Belair 2dr hardtop
I have owned many different model cars over the years. I have never changed the trans fluid or filter changed on any of them. The MB I currently own is the first car I have ever changed the brake fluid on. Twice it was done and car has only about 12,000 miles on it. It will not be getting the trans fluid changed in my life time and it will not be getting the brake fluid changed again. In my opinion it is a waste of time when you do not put many miles on a vehicle. Most of the rides I have owned over the years had over 100,000 miles on them and none of them had trans or brake fluid changed and I never had a problem with them. I did the MB maintenance while under warranty and extended warranty and now that the warranty is up I will be doing the maintenance when I feel it is necessary. Again this is just my opinion and I know a lot of people feel I am wrong but as I have stated none of the other rides gave me a problem with just doing the maintenance I felt was necessary.
Last edited by dbldpr; Nov 4, 2021 at 08:19 AM. Reason: typo
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From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
What is not publicized very often is :
-the services based on mileage are set by German engineers
-the services based on time are set by US lawyers and that happen about year 2002.
My 1998 ML320 did not have clock in FSS and since that was our weekend warrior it was getting oil changed about every 2 years. Bare in mind it was dino oil in those years.
I also had lot of other toys, like tractor, motorhome, boat, pressure washer, where engines were putting very low annual hours.
I never hesitated to keep the oil in those for 6-8 years.
But I live in dry climates where crankcase water condensation doesn't apply, so that is something you might want to check.
If in doubt- send the sample to Blackstone, or other lab.
-the services based on mileage are set by German engineers
-the services based on time are set by US lawyers and that happen about year 2002.
My 1998 ML320 did not have clock in FSS and since that was our weekend warrior it was getting oil changed about every 2 years. Bare in mind it was dino oil in those years.
I also had lot of other toys, like tractor, motorhome, boat, pressure washer, where engines were putting very low annual hours.
I never hesitated to keep the oil in those for 6-8 years.
But I live in dry climates where crankcase water condensation doesn't apply, so that is something you might want to check.
If in doubt- send the sample to Blackstone, or other lab.
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From: US
2008 E350, 2012 ML350, 2014 E350, 2015 ML350
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_fluid
Interesting reading without manufacturer bias. Hygroscopic Brake fluid have shelf life, regardless of mileage. It is basically a function of time exposed to air.
Owners manuals use either mileage or time to describe shelf life or estimated wear. They do not know if the car was standing for 10000 hours at fixed RPM, or driven nonstop the whole year; therefore, they are estimates trying to cover most common usage. I think they are using an estimate @10000 miles/year to convert between them
I guess that ignoring service guidelines for the car goes along with ignoring doctors recommendation for better quality of life long term. It is all about the long run. If we are planning to pass the problem to someone else and save a few bucks, sure ignore all the guidelines and reinvent all the engineering put into every product out there.
Interesting reading without manufacturer bias. Hygroscopic Brake fluid have shelf life, regardless of mileage. It is basically a function of time exposed to air.
Owners manuals use either mileage or time to describe shelf life or estimated wear. They do not know if the car was standing for 10000 hours at fixed RPM, or driven nonstop the whole year; therefore, they are estimates trying to cover most common usage. I think they are using an estimate @10000 miles/year to convert between them
I guess that ignoring service guidelines for the car goes along with ignoring doctors recommendation for better quality of life long term. It is all about the long run. If we are planning to pass the problem to someone else and save a few bucks, sure ignore all the guidelines and reinvent all the engineering put into every product out there.
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From: Northwest Illinois
2014 E350 also restored: 1969 Camaro convertible SS 1957 Chevy Belair 2dr hardtop
At no time did anyone talk about saving a few bucks. That may be you, but not thoughts from anyone in this post. As far as passing the problem to someone else that will only happen if a problem comes up. From my experience not doing the suggested maintenance as a manufacturer suggests has never caused problems to people I have sold my rides to. I still see some of my old rides in my neighborhood. As for health issues I bet you are fully vaccinated and you believe you should be following what the government recommends. Again that is your choice and good luck and continue getting boosters for the next 10 to 20 years.
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From: Jakarta-Indonesia
2014 - W212.065 - E400 ( M276.820, 3 liter Turbo) RWD not Hybrid
I use 200 hours for engine oil or 5,000KM or 9 months as maximum, whichever comes first.
Engine oil degradation is first and foremost by temperature above 80C.
https://www.machinerylubrication.com...perature-limit
https://www.shell.us/business-custom...-viscosity.pdf
https://www.shell.us/business-custom...viscosity.html
The rest of the oil killer are contamination from combustion by-products, water vapor from short drive, wear and tear particles from moving parts + etc etc...and low quality oil.
Last edited by S-Prihadi; Nov 3, 2021 at 05:27 AM. Reason: add image
Senior Member
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From: SOUTHWEST OHIO
2016 E350 2015 ML250 2002 Z06 CORVETTE
At no time did anyone talk about saving a few bucks. That may be you, but not thoughts from anyone in this post. As far as passing the problem to someone else that will only happen if a problem comes up. From my experience not doing the suggested maintenance as a manufacturer suggests has never caused problems to people I have sold my rides to. I still see some of my old rides in my neighborhood. As for health issues I bet you are fully vaccinated and you believe you should be following what the government recommends. Again that is your choice and good luck and continue getting boosters for the next 10 to 20 years.
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From: Sammamish, WA
2011 E350 Wagon, 2010 GL450
Just because a transmission is technically capable of going 100k miles on one oil fill doesn't mean you should. You may be able to keep eating until you've filled your esophagus but why would you?
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Interesting discussion. When I buy a used late model car, I will only buy one with good service history. I keep my records hoping it will bring a higher value for me when I sell and that has generally been the case. Service history trumps low miles in my opinion.
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From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Buying cars for my sons, when they come to driving age, I bought couple of MB diesels with over 200k miles. Most of them unseen as CA, where I lived at the time did not sell new diesels for couple of decades, so most of them come from East Coast.
1 of those MB did show signs of negligence, yet it still made 2500 miles home, where I could take care about small stuff.
So per my experience, those cars can take pretty big abuse and still perform. Note that MB engines usually have oil pans with capacity 2-3 times bigger than comparable engines of other brands.
That said, my latest purchase is GLE, who was bought, maintained and traded at the same dealer. After taking the trade - the dealer spend $2400 on sale preparation, so I have new tires, brakes, damaged spoiler got replaced and more.
It come with higher price, but with 120k miles on it, the car has only single ding in hard to see spot. It is pristine.
1 of those MB did show signs of negligence, yet it still made 2500 miles home, where I could take care about small stuff.
So per my experience, those cars can take pretty big abuse and still perform. Note that MB engines usually have oil pans with capacity 2-3 times bigger than comparable engines of other brands.
That said, my latest purchase is GLE, who was bought, maintained and traded at the same dealer. After taking the trade - the dealer spend $2400 on sale preparation, so I have new tires, brakes, damaged spoiler got replaced and more.
It come with higher price, but with 120k miles on it, the car has only single ding in hard to see spot. It is pristine.
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From: Sammamish, WA
2011 E350 Wagon, 2010 GL450
Oh absolutely. I'd take a car with 200k miles that's had regular maintenance and upkeep over one with 100k that's had no service. Higher miles of course mean it's been driven more regularly too, which is always good. Cars don't do well just sitting for long periods.
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From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
What's your definition of "long" ?
I had our black W212 sitting for 2 years, started once in the period. After sitting for about 16 months, the diesel engine fired on 1st turn. The only precaution I did was disconnecting the battery and draining DEF.
I also restarted couple of motorhomes who were sitting for 8 and 10 years. Diesel fuel was just fine, so new batteries and here we go.
The one sitting for 8 years drove on original tires just fine as well, but the semi-truck size 22.5" tires have way more rubber on the sides than passenger car tires.
Now guess how many years our 1922 Ford T was sitting?
I had our black W212 sitting for 2 years, started once in the period. After sitting for about 16 months, the diesel engine fired on 1st turn. The only precaution I did was disconnecting the battery and draining DEF.
I also restarted couple of motorhomes who were sitting for 8 and 10 years. Diesel fuel was just fine, so new batteries and here we go.
The one sitting for 8 years drove on original tires just fine as well, but the semi-truck size 22.5" tires have way more rubber on the sides than passenger car tires.
Now guess how many years our 1922 Ford T was sitting?
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From: Pepper Pike Ohio
24 GLS580 '23 E450 4matic 12 E350 4Matic
I use the time/milage recommendations, does seem silly that my '12 with 30k has had the brake fluid changed four times, the coolant once and the tranny just pan dropped and filter changed, I will also change out the tires at 8-10 years no matter the tread left, my '13 212 rolls much more so usually I just follow the milage on that one, spark plugs and tranny done at 50-60k coolant changed and brake fluid done three times so far, but I also had the extended warranty and service package on that one.
to each his own, but I have always done better with following the manufacturers advice on maintenance, I just think if I ever do sell it, having all the services done and up to date is perceived value.
to each his own, but I have always done better with following the manufacturers advice on maintenance, I just think if I ever do sell it, having all the services done and up to date is perceived value.
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From: US
2008 E350, 2012 ML350, 2014 E350, 2015 ML350
Assuming it does not get contaminated. Like any other fluid, if it passes "the test" it can stay there.I understand that either the hydrometer or pH test should be sufficient. Others use the "eye test"
. Since I am color blind that one does not work for me very well
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From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
One of the main rules you learn about automotive fluids is
DON'T JUDGE FLUIDS BY THEIR LOOKS
That is what labs are for.
I am not much of the chemist, but suppose replacing coolant prematurely, without replacing chem pack can put whole chemistry in havoc.
DON'T JUDGE FLUIDS BY THEIR LOOKS
That is what labs are for.
I am not much of the chemist, but suppose replacing coolant prematurely, without replacing chem pack can put whole chemistry in havoc.
Super Member
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 505
Likes: 288
From: Sammamish, WA
2011 E350 Wagon, 2010 GL450
What's your definition of "long" ?
I had our black W212 sitting for 2 years, started once in the period. After sitting for about 16 months, the diesel engine fired on 1st turn. The only precaution I did was disconnecting the battery and draining DEF.
I also restarted couple of motorhomes who were sitting for 8 and 10 years. Diesel fuel was just fine, so new batteries and here we go.
The one sitting for 8 years drove on original tires just fine as well, but the semi-truck size 22.5" tires have way more rubber on the sides than passenger car tires.
Now guess how many years our 1922 Ford T was sitting?
I had our black W212 sitting for 2 years, started once in the period. After sitting for about 16 months, the diesel engine fired on 1st turn. The only precaution I did was disconnecting the battery and draining DEF.
I also restarted couple of motorhomes who were sitting for 8 and 10 years. Diesel fuel was just fine, so new batteries and here we go.
The one sitting for 8 years drove on original tires just fine as well, but the semi-truck size 22.5" tires have way more rubber on the sides than passenger car tires.
Now guess how many years our 1922 Ford T was sitting?
