Hello all,

Just wondering if the issues with the balance shaft, timing chain and intake manifold flaps exist after 2010.

I have a E350 2010 build wagon /estate RH drive and so far (touch wood) it's been a gem completed almost 60000kms since I've had it and now has 140000kms in total. Generally commutes local and mainly short trips but at the end of the year we do 1000km+ trips and wouldn't want it to let us down.


VIN/Chassis:
WDD2122562A241898
Engine number:
27298031501017

Thanks in advance

 

Engine above the following number

2729..30 468993

Yours is in the OK zone. You should be good

 

Thanks!
Not sure about the intake manifold if anything was done to improve?

 

After doing some research online it sounds like the intake manifold flaps have not been sorted.
As a preventative maintenance measure I'm thinking of replacing them, what is a recommended brand??

 

Careful with that. My personal opinion here.
​the intake manifold failure is due to failure of the oil separator/ crankcase breather on the left bank, the manifold later gumms up, and plastic lever actuator ( mechanical fuse ) breaks next before the internal flaps makes it even worse.

For preventive maintenance I would do the oil separator, the breather system first.

The next point of failure would be fatigue of the plastic actuator up front the intake manifold. Replacing it? Your call, and your $$$.

​​​​​​My 2c

 

That makes allot of sense.
I have changed the oil centrifuge on the RH rear of head and I'm assuming you are taking about the oil separator located on the LH valve cover. I've notice since I replace the centrifuge oil consumption went up, I wonder if it's related to the oil separator I didn't replace.

 

Apologies if I confused left with the right side. I was explicitly referring to the breather of the head on the passenger's side, i.e. right hand looking forward. Though my main point is to fix whatever makes oil get into the throttle body, and then into the intake manifold.

 

Tumble flaps gumming and breaking are an issue till the end of production of M272 in W212... so thru 2011. 2012 MYs received M276 DI engine. Regardless of crankcase breather status, which is good maintenance to replace around 100k, there's a high possibly in the 125-150k range you'll be dealing with the intake manifold.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, but even if the intake lever snaps while on a trip it won't put you on the side of the road. It may mean a slight loss of power and you'll get a code but I think that's it. I'm usually all about preventative maintenance, but given the nature and cost of this one, I'm waiting it out. It may never pop up.

 

My sister's 2008 E350 (W211) in my profile currently has the intake lever snaps broken (verified visually), it triggers two different codes: one code for open, or another for close depending on where I set "fixed" position. The car runs fine for its current purpose (spare), but the intake replacement is on the TODO list with its associated $$$ cost.

 

Is there a way you check to see how gummed up the internals are without removing the manifold? Camera down the throttle body with the MAF removed?

 

AFAIK, it's not something you can gauge visually.

You can move the external lever by hand. If it's really difficult to move, it's not long for this world. It's kind of tricky to tell unless you know what it *should* feel like, short of it being obviously tough to move.

Getting a tool down to move it will be tricky, but I believe it can be done.

 

Thank you to all!
As the manifold issue won't strand us on the side of the road I'm going to wait and see considering I have replaced the PCV valve on the back of the head and I don't really want to spend 1500AUD right now.

 

I already replaced my intake manifold. Can't remember the exact mileage but yes, probably in the 120k range. The oil separator that goes is behind the breather cover and is reverse threaded. I bought the kit from FCPeuro. Probably didn't need the other oil separator on the other side. I replaced the hoses too as they were coated in oil. The oil plugs were ok, but as I had them, I replaced them anyway. Very common source of oil leaks. I replaced the entire manifold, the Pierburg manifold was OEM and it was about $650 with the gaskets and o rings for the fuel injectors. Just time consuming to replace it, there are several long videos that are like a half an hour long on youtube showing you how to do it. My mechanic took his time and it was more like 4-6 hours doing it although we replaced those breather kit parts too along with doing a few other things like spark plugs etc while it was all apart. I wouldn't bother with the repair kits if you plan on keeping it for a long time, say another 80-120k. The lever breaking or the rods breaking are just a warning sign that the flaps are starting to get gummed up. Eventually the flaps will break and fall into the engine causing damage. You can play with the lever and see how well it springs back. On my old one, it was hard to move and didn't spring back after moving it. The new one was very smooth. I actually didn't get a code, I scanned it one day and the error code for the intake flaps was pending but would have set a code eventually. As others said, it's a tuned intake runner, the flaps control whether you have long or short intake runners depending on the RPMs of the engine. If it's stuck in one position or slow to switch, it will run rough but it's not a breakdown that will stop you on your trip. The eventual break of the flap probably happens after you've had a CEL light for a while.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...kit-oem-515810

There's a rebuilt manifold out there, I think around $350-$400 but I think in some other thread someone railed against them as theirs failed and their warranty was only good if a professional mechanic installed it and it was only one year. FCPeuro has a lifetime warranty and I didn't want to risk having to pay for the job twice, I figure I'm all set for another 100k or more, probably check/replace the oil separator/cover in another 50k or so.

 

I think you have a very valid point there. As we plan on keeping the car long term I'll just replace the complete manifold with the OEM part from FCP it sounds like it's not worth the risk going the other option. For now there are no codes stored or pending to do with the manifold so I'll just play it by ear and deal with it when it does fail. Thanks for your valuable information.

 

Oh yeah, those are US vendors, I think the other one that sells rebuilt manifolds is in Florida and advertises on eBay. Not sure how it works down under.

 

I have purchased other stuff from Fcp in the past and shipping was real fast, priced the manifold with gaskets shiped to here was just under 1100AUD which I think is reasonable.