Question on airmatic suspension
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2021
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W212 E550
Question on airmatic suspension
Hi all.
I have a question about the air suspension. My car which is a 2010 e550 has air suspension and it drops at the front.
Reading around it is either leaking shock(s) in the front or the control valves.
my question is: As they go down evenly (both sides) and may take a day, maybe 3, maybe fine after a week is it likely to be shocks or valve? The reason I ask is I am not sure if they have individual air lines (it looks like they do) so if one shock was leaking would both sides drop in unison? I guess the same applies to the valve block.
Also I have noticed the car “puffing” air from the control valves / compressor when parking it. Usually 10 seconds after I lock it, it might puff out some air. Then maybe more 20 seconds later. I assume the compressor/reservoir has over pressure so is bleeding off, but could that also be related to the front drop?
on restart the compressor runs, I get vehicle rising please wait and it takes maybe a minute to start raising it up, so the reservoir has nothing in it so takes a while to build pressure
in all situations the rears stay up as they should.
Any thoughts?
shocks are 2k each so i want to rule out the valve/reservoir/compressor before replacing them.
cheers.
I have a question about the air suspension. My car which is a 2010 e550 has air suspension and it drops at the front.
Reading around it is either leaking shock(s) in the front or the control valves.
my question is: As they go down evenly (both sides) and may take a day, maybe 3, maybe fine after a week is it likely to be shocks or valve? The reason I ask is I am not sure if they have individual air lines (it looks like they do) so if one shock was leaking would both sides drop in unison? I guess the same applies to the valve block.
Also I have noticed the car “puffing” air from the control valves / compressor when parking it. Usually 10 seconds after I lock it, it might puff out some air. Then maybe more 20 seconds later. I assume the compressor/reservoir has over pressure so is bleeding off, but could that also be related to the front drop?
on restart the compressor runs, I get vehicle rising please wait and it takes maybe a minute to start raising it up, so the reservoir has nothing in it so takes a while to build pressure
in all situations the rears stay up as they should.
Any thoughts?
shocks are 2k each so i want to rule out the valve/reservoir/compressor before replacing them.
cheers.
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My Airmatic cars always bled off air, farted, wheezed, etc after parking it. That’s normal.
sorting your issue takes time and patience as you search for the cause. Start by looking for a small leak in the lines, shocks, near the expansion tank, etc. and good luck.
sorting your issue takes time and patience as you search for the cause. Start by looking for a small leak in the lines, shocks, near the expansion tank, etc. and good luck.
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From: Oklahoma
2006 E55 AMG
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I have a w211 that started doing (pretty much) the same thing. Shocks have <10k on them. Both were replaced at the same time. After putting in a new compressor, car started to lose its hight more in the front right than left. Thought I had an internal compressor leak, so I put an old one in. No change. Also have done soap and water test on all components that I can see. No visible air leak was found.
Granted, it has been cold out, but it should not drop more than 30mm due to changes in temperatures outside.
Car only throws a 5500 code (critical vehicle level at front axel).
FYI...Not trying to steal the thread. Just looking for help without having to start another thread.
Granted, it has been cold out, but it should not drop more than 30mm due to changes in temperatures outside.
Car only throws a 5500 code (critical vehicle level at front axel).
FYI...Not trying to steal the thread. Just looking for help without having to start another thread.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2021
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W212 E550
Interesting that yours drops one side more than the other. Mine is perfectly symmetrical. Fronts slowly drop in time with each other. Rears stay up.
my real question is if one shock has a leak would they both drop equally? It looks like they have individual lines, but not sure if the valve block “connects” the two so it sends air to the front or back vs front left / front right etc.
my real question is if one shock has a leak would they both drop equally? It looks like they have individual lines, but not sure if the valve block “connects” the two so it sends air to the front or back vs front left / front right etc.
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2008 E350, 2012 ML350, 2014 E350, 2015 ML350
You may want to read the following post
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post7690804
The pdf summary is worth reading
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post7690804
The pdf summary is worth reading
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'11 E350, '11 E550, '98 M3, '95 E320
Hate to say it... but there's a good amount of recent threads (within 1yr) helping diagnose issues with airmatic. The car dropping overnight or a few days means there's an issue. A healthy system will not drop appreciably for a long time (i.e. you'd never notice it even sitting weeks).
The system will re-level itself after parking and locking... "farting" is normal. Front struts are under 1k each, whether MB (reman) or Arnott. Likely struts at this age.
The system will re-level itself after parking and locking... "farting" is normal. Front struts are under 1k each, whether MB (reman) or Arnott. Likely struts at this age.
- Car parked and locked (key at least 15' away), wait 30 minutes or so
- Disconnect the airline (at compressor) between the compressor and valve body. Stick airline end into a cup of water and check for bubbles. Bubbles = leaking valve body. Replace for $300-400 from MB.
- No bubbles = likely strut bad.
- Last check, spray down all airlines at compressor, valve body, lines and top of strut (where airline enters) to check for leaks (bubbles).
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Thread Starter
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W212 E550
Cheers everyone. Thanks for the help. I didn't want to appear dumb, and I did search a lot for the question I had, but could not find an answer.
That question is/was because both sides drop together by the same amount (which is the key part) does that rule out a shock?
If the left front was low, but right front not, I would know it was a shock / air line but the valve block would likely be ok. Because both go down that implies they are connected in some way, but it doesn't look like it. This points more to a valve issue.
I know there is a problem, I know that shocks/vales/pressure relief/compressor all have issues. I like the PDF attached above. Gives a good overview even though it is for an older S class.
The issue is that in New Zealand, the shocks are over 2K. We can't easily (read cheaply) ship them from the USA as they are considered dangerous (pressurised) for aircraft. Also, if they have an issue warranties are great, but it might cost me $600 to send them back to the US and often still have to pay to get them shipped back. The challenges we face on the other side of the world!
Cheers.
Ken
That question is/was because both sides drop together by the same amount (which is the key part) does that rule out a shock?
If the left front was low, but right front not, I would know it was a shock / air line but the valve block would likely be ok. Because both go down that implies they are connected in some way, but it doesn't look like it. This points more to a valve issue.
I know there is a problem, I know that shocks/vales/pressure relief/compressor all have issues. I like the PDF attached above. Gives a good overview even though it is for an older S class.
The issue is that in New Zealand, the shocks are over 2K. We can't easily (read cheaply) ship them from the USA as they are considered dangerous (pressurised) for aircraft. Also, if they have an issue warranties are great, but it might cost me $600 to send them back to the US and often still have to pay to get them shipped back. The challenges we face on the other side of the world!
Cheers.
Ken
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'11 E350, '11 E550, '98 M3, '95 E320
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 1,363
Likes: 1,012
'11 E350, '11 E550, '98 M3, '95 E320
OP,
If your handy... you could make a pressure adapter and gauge set to test the strut itself. I've seen some attempts and this also describes the idea: https://w220.wiki/Airmatic
Take care, not everything in that W220 wiki is totally applicable to the W212.
You could invest a few dollars, before committing to $4k on struts. Both dropping can be a red herring... how much are they dropping? Is the front-end slammed. Either way, there's enough proof through user experience that at this age/mileage the struts and rear air springs are ripe for replacement. Its common, but spending some time, skill and $$ to diagnose is always a good thing.
If your handy... you could make a pressure adapter and gauge set to test the strut itself. I've seen some attempts and this also describes the idea: https://w220.wiki/Airmatic
Take care, not everything in that W220 wiki is totally applicable to the W212.
You could invest a few dollars, before committing to $4k on struts. Both dropping can be a red herring... how much are they dropping? Is the front-end slammed. Either way, there's enough proof through user experience that at this age/mileage the struts and rear air springs are ripe for replacement. Its common, but spending some time, skill and $$ to diagnose is always a good thing.
Thread Starter
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W212 E550
Cheers for the responses. Yes I found the s class pdf useful although that has some bits like check valves to prevent the shocks dropping below a pressure (forget what). They don’t seem to be on the E.
it is dropping right to the ground. Pretty much can’t see the top of the tyre as it is up behind the guard.
I parked it one night with the wheels turned and in the morning the wheel arches were sitting on the tyres taking the weight of a v8…. Probably not the best but the guards must be pretty solid.
it is dropping right to the ground. Pretty much can’t see the top of the tyre as it is up behind the guard.
I parked it one night with the wheels turned and in the morning the wheel arches were sitting on the tyres taking the weight of a v8…. Probably not the best but the guards must be pretty solid.
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From: US
2008 E350, 2012 ML350, 2014 E350, 2015 ML350
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From: Southern US
2010 E550, 273 Engine: 2012 S550, 278 Engine
Cheers for the responses. Yes I found the s class pdf useful although that has some bits like check valves to prevent the shocks dropping below a pressure (forget what). They don’t seem to be on the E.
it is dropping right to the ground. Pretty much can’t see the top of the tyre as it is up behind the guard.
I parked it one night with the wheels turned and in the morning the wheel arches were sitting on the tyres taking the weight of a v8…. Probably not the best but the guards must be pretty solid.
it is dropping right to the ground. Pretty much can’t see the top of the tyre as it is up behind the guard.
I parked it one night with the wheels turned and in the morning the wheel arches were sitting on the tyres taking the weight of a v8…. Probably not the best but the guards must be pretty solid.
I think the explanation is that at SPORT height the one healthy air spring does not have enough travel to generate enough pressure to hold the car from going all the way down but in COMFORT (or RAISED) height it does.
Do a simple test. Leave it on raised position and see if it is all the way down in the morning. If not, you will have leaking side lower with opposing rear higher and you have found your problem.
Your car is at age to replace both front air struts and both rear air springs.
FCP Euro sells OEM parts for front at about USD 1200 each. For rear springs I got Arnott thru Amazon. They were something like USD 300 each.
Super easy to change if you are DIY at all.
