S-Prihadi

This post is actually a part 2 of below's Part 1 post, approx 5,000KM ago.

https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...eshooting.html


First good news.
The anti-seize I applied did not "melt-down" and cause any contamination to the brake pad or rotor.
Removing the rotor was soooooo easy. Tap ever so lightly the rotor with the handle end of a 1kg hammer and it comes off. No need tracker pull at all.
No rust too............ nice





Second good and bad news at the same time.
The good news. I think drilled rotor owners can extend his/her brake rotor pulsating-free-life if cleaning out the damn dust & rust from the drilled holes are carried out say per 6 months or 5,000KM in countries with traffic-jam unlike mine.
For me 2,500KM is more suitable, based on 21KM/H average speed I been getting.

Granted I have overheated my rotor and brake pad because of the fun 20 laps at the track in 2020, the measurement I will show you guys below is a proof that the highest wear area on my rotor are all within the
drilled holes areas. I really dislike these drilled rotors.

I replaced the rotor because I was unhappy with the "hill and valley" on the rotor surface. My car braking bite is easily 20% lost, I don't like it. No pulsation, none.
I been keeping the dust off by blowing them holes and the vents at approx 1/3 way to 5,000KM from part 1 post.
So I wanted a fresh new start. New rotors and brake pads then.
I have no choice but to go with Mercedes genuine parts and drilled rotors.
There is no reputable aftermarket brand offering 344mm rotors and without drilled holes.


Close look & measuring the old rotors to see the hill and valley.



Light leak test is the easiest way to see such small gap/vallley.



I can insert into the "valley" a 0.05mm feeler gauge.




Old eyes of mine............. nearly missed 1 revolution of the dial,



This micrometer is a 2 revolution to get 1mm. Written scale on the dial is 50 only.




Hand spinning the new rotor. 2 wheel lugs bolted down.



Anti-rust coating removed simply from manuvering the car in the garage. Yep, back to old OEM wheel




I can see the machining cut..... nice




This is the best bedding-in I can do, highway still crowded at 8-9PM on Sunday 5th Dec. Its kinda embrassing, looking like a fool speeding only to brake hard . I have the dashcam footage.
I can't slow down below the 80KM/H other road users are doing, so I brake from 140-150 KM/H down to 80-90 KMH.
The 1st and 2nd braking event was no grip at all ..... LOL




YESTERDAY : No wheels. Rotor secured down using 2 wheel lug, but not torqued down to 130Nm. Light weight tight.
After bedding-in, I inspected again close up the brake system and blow all dust and grease the sliding areas.





YESTERDAY : No wheels. Rotor secured down using 2 wheel lug, but not torqued down to 130Nm. Light weight tight.
I think I need to overhaul my brake piston, its fluid seal change and the dust cover. No tear on the dust cover lucky.
I want to see total floating brake pad at rest. Now brake pad is still so minute touching at the inner side of the rotor. The old rotor and brake pad was touching more ar rest, lots of middle area.



Yesterday. The inner side is OK.




Today, 50KM more after previous photo of yesterday. Wheel is ON. All bolts troqued down properly. I just drove it out today. Simply jacked the car up.




Let see how it goes a few more hundred KM of use.
I have not yet get the maximum bite out of this rotor + brake pad yet. The bedding-in process was not hard enough.

Will update.