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Thanks Cali, I read your note, brakes are working great, good pedal and normal brake effort so I'm going to assume {*** u me} that the booster's not full, procedure in WIS doesn't seem too tough, then I have to complete the bleeding process, which looks more labor intensive. I hope to start tomorrow, will update
First update, they must have changed the air/water duct, between the '12 and '13 model years, my '12 has the partitioned duct that can be removed without removing the whole water duct and the wipers, my '13 does not so I guess I will be removing the wiper arms and the water/ air duct completely like the instructions for the 207 series.
Last edited by pierrejoliat; Sep 9, 2022 at 04:58 PM.
Reason: Update
Thanks Surya, Just awesome, my wiper arm drivers side does not have a cap, it has a small lever release on the underside you can depress with a right angle pick tool, I learned this when I was adjusting the wiper arm angles. Man, they changed a lot on these cars year to year, never ceases to amaze me!
Update; the little clip on the bottom of the wiper arm just removes the plastic cover all the way to the first joint in the wiper arm, I stand corrected, LOL
Last edited by pierrejoliat; Sep 13, 2022 at 05:37 PM.
Reason: incorrect
Thanks Surya, Just awesome, my wiper arm drivers side does not have a cap, it has a small lever release on the underside you can depress with a right angle pick tool, I learned this when I was adjusting the wiper arm angles. Man, they changed a lot on these cars year to year, never ceases to amaze me!
Thanks Cali, I am guessing it was leaking down the front of the booster, I just couldn't see it, but once I get in there I'll check and if necessary run a tube to the bottom and suck it out. As I mentioned I still have no change in braking pedal and power are just fine and I did the vacuum booster checks I found online and passed. Fingers crossed as I did not order the booster!
If you are NOT a pretty knowledgeable Mechanic on Cars? Working on a Mercedes-Benz and throwing parts at it ARE NOT the way to get it right. I am sure your brake booster (if you can get it aftermarket) will be $300 at least? hope I am wrong? I have a 2010 E350 with 129,358 miles on it and have owned it since 2013. a 3 year CPO. I have been going through it with new plugs, coil packs, ALL the filters, Water pump, Tensioner, Idler pulleys, serpentine belt and the Power Steer Pump went out back in January 2022 which I bought a OEM from a Supplier over in China. I CAN do all this work and I have Motor Mounts, Trans mounts, and transmission to change fluid with new filter, Have flushed the cooling system and new temperature valve under the wiper cowl. I also have mounted 4 new tires on my original rims and have sanded down and repainted them a BRILLIANT SILVER METALLIC and balanced. New wiper blades, completely polished out and dirt, defects and brought Clear finish back to a high gloss. Removed from bumper cover sanded out any paint chips (rocks, dirt, wife's damage) primed and repainted along with right fender, All New LED bulbs inside and out. I have probably saved Thousands of Dollars. You Tube has been helpful along with manuals I have purchased online!
I THINK YOU HAVE GOTTEN OVER YOUR HEAD ON THIS AUTOMOBILE? Hope I am wrong? GOOD LUCK>
If you are NOT a pretty knowledgeable Mechanic on Cars? Working on a Mercedes-Benz and throwing parts at it ARE NOT the way to get it right. I am sure your brake booster (if you can get it aftermarket) will be $300 at least? hope I am wrong? I have a 2010 E350 with 129,358 miles on it and have owned it since 2013. a 3 year CPO. I have been going through it with new plugs, coil packs, ALL the filters, Water pump, Tensioner, Idler pulleys, serpentine belt and the Power Steer Pump went out back in January 2022 which I bought a OEM from a Supplier over in China. I CAN do all this work and I have Motor Mounts, Trans mounts, and transmission to change fluid with new filter, Have flushed the cooling system and new temperature valve under the wiper cowl. I also have mounted 4 new tires on my original rims and have sanded down and repainted them a BRILLIANT SILVER METALLIC and balanced. New wiper blades, completely polished out and dirt, defects and brought Clear finish back to a high gloss. Removed from bumper cover sanded out any paint chips (rocks, dirt, wife's damage) primed and repainted along with right fender, All New LED bulbs inside and out. I have probably saved Thousands of Dollars. You Tube has been helpful along with manuals I have purchased online!
I THINK YOU HAVE GOTTEN OVER YOUR HEAD ON THIS AUTOMOBILE? Hope I am wrong? GOOD LUCK>
Thank yo so much for your input and encouraging words Tom, always nice to get helpful hints and positive input for diagnosing and completing repairs, that's what this forum is for...
If you are NOT a pretty knowledgeable Mechanic on Cars? Working on a Mercedes-Benz and throwing parts at it ARE NOT the way to get it right. I am sure your brake booster (if you can get it aftermarket) will be $300 at least? hope I am wrong? I have a 2010 E350 with 129,358 miles on it and have owned it since 2013. a 3 year CPO. I have been going through it with new plugs, coil packs, ALL the filters, Water pump, Tensioner, Idler pulleys, serpentine belt and the Power Steer Pump went out back in January 2022 which I bought a OEM from a Supplier over in China. I CAN do all this work and I have Motor Mounts, Trans mounts, and transmission to change fluid with new filter, Have flushed the cooling system and new temperature valve under the wiper cowl. I also have mounted 4 new tires on my original rims and have sanded down and repainted them a BRILLIANT SILVER METALLIC and balanced. New wiper blades, completely polished out and dirt, defects and brought Clear finish back to a high gloss. Removed from bumper cover sanded out any paint chips (rocks, dirt, wife's damage) primed and repainted along with right fender, All New LED bulbs inside and out. I have probably saved Thousands of Dollars. You Tube has been helpful along with manuals I have purchased online!
I THINK YOU HAVE GOTTEN OVER YOUR HEAD ON THIS AUTOMOBILE? Hope I am wrong? GOOD LUCK>
nice diatribe of your skill set and yelling at the guy who probably forgot more than you know.
If you are NOT a pretty knowledgeable Mechanic on Cars? Working on a Mercedes-Benz and throwing parts at it ARE NOT the way to get it right. I am sure your brake booster (if you can get it aftermarket) will be $300 at least? hope I am wrong? I have a 2010 E350 with 129,358 miles on it and have owned it since 2013. a 3 year CPO. I have been going through it with new plugs, coil packs, ALL the filters, Water pump, Tensioner, Idler pulleys, serpentine belt and the Power Steer Pump went out back in January 2022 which I bought a OEM from a Supplier over in China. I CAN do all this work and I have Motor Mounts, Trans mounts, and transmission to change fluid with new filter, Have flushed the cooling system and new temperature valve under the wiper cowl. I also have mounted 4 new tires on my original rims and have sanded down and repainted them a BRILLIANT SILVER METALLIC and balanced. New wiper blades, completely polished out and dirt, defects and brought Clear finish back to a high gloss. Removed from bumper cover sanded out any paint chips (rocks, dirt, wife's damage) primed and repainted along with right fender, All New LED bulbs inside and out. I have probably saved Thousands of Dollars. You Tube has been helpful along with manuals I have purchased online!
I THINK YOU HAVE GOTTEN OVER YOUR HEAD ON THIS AUTOMOBILE? Hope I am wrong? GOOD LUCK>
The tenor of your posts are derogatory, and not helpful. You accuse Pierre of throwing parts at his car... when he is doing proper, deliberate diagnosing... while you regale us with all your musings which smell to me like you are the one throwing parts at your car.
If you are NOT a pretty knowledgeable Mechanic on Cars? Working on a Mercedes-Benz and throwing parts at it ARE NOT the way to get it right. I am sure your brake booster (if you can get it aftermarket) will be $300 at least? hope I am wrong? I have a 2010 E350 with 129,358 miles on it and have owned it since 2013. a 3 year CPO. I have been going through it with new plugs, coil packs, ALL the filters, Water pump, Tensioner, Idler pulleys, serpentine belt and the Power Steer Pump went out back in January 2022 which I bought a OEM from a Supplier over in China. I CAN do all this work and I have Motor Mounts, Trans mounts, and transmission to change fluid with new filter, Have flushed the cooling system and new temperature valve under the wiper cowl. I also have mounted 4 new tires on my original rims and have sanded down and repainted them a BRILLIANT SILVER METALLIC and balanced. New wiper blades, completely polished out and dirt, defects and brought Clear finish back to a high gloss. Removed from bumper cover sanded out any paint chips (rocks, dirt, wife's damage) primed and repainted along with right fender, All New LED bulbs inside and out. I have probably saved Thousands of Dollars. You Tube has been helpful along with manuals I have purchased online!
I THINK YOU HAVE GOTTEN OVER YOUR HEAD ON THIS AUTOMOBILE? Hope I am wrong? GOOD LUCK>
So very sorry guys.....I did not know BRILLIANT SILVER METALLIC paint can make me sick
Yes Surya, I believe so, had to remove drivers side wiper arm, remove fastener for drip /wind tray and was able to remove strut brace from there, master cylinder was easy to replace after removing strut, BUT, I have not bled the brakes yet, as my brake lines although not leaking yet, are really rusty, I am going to replace them to the back at least and maybe from there to the rear wheels as well, I just don't want any issues during the upcoming winter and the car has been in the salt for eight winters now, so hearing that it could cost up to 3500 dollars to have done, I'm just going to do it,I haven't done brake line bending for forty years, so wish me luck! I will take LCG's advice and replace with better brake lines than the steel ones though. Hopefully!
Pierre, you're definitely right about loosing the rusted brake lines. I did that on my very first car, then I used flexible copper lines. It's very easy to work with once you have the tool to shape the end seals.
2¢ you may want to concider... is finish the first job completely before tackling phase II.
This way you know where you stand with bleeding air out. Right now you have minimal wheel bubles, so you can bleed MC until the pedal feels firm the way you like it.
If you get air everwhere... it will be harder to bleed the last bubles not knowing what end it's in....
Wow so much things to do Pierre.
I did small 8mm OD I believe it was 1.2mm thick 400 BAR Sandvik stainless steel pipe/tube bending for my dive compressor extra standalone big filter towers, but never something so long and many bends like a car brake line.
It is no fun to work with such thick stainless steel tube of such quality.
All Swagelok tube fittings I use, its double ferrule fitting is INSANELY awesome !!! German dive compressor ( Bauer ) like to use Voss single ferrule, it is garbage. I hope MB doesn't use such poor quality ferrule.
Yes, going around the gas tank was interesting, I'm now going to the brake hoses at the rear wheels, been a long time since I've done this but slow and steady!
Yes Cali, I finished up under the hood first, new MC and reservoir are in and everything's back in place, pulling the lines through the frame channels was a B****, but I'm past that now, thank G*d. So far I'm nine hours of labor, but parts are 250 for the MC and 120 dollars for lines and fittings.
Last edited by pierrejoliat; Sep 22, 2022 at 08:55 AM.
Reason: changed over to around
"Slow and steady"... one bite of dust in the face after another laying under the beast. It will all feel good once you get done.
What section did you find the most rusted line ??
Are you going to protect your new lines at all?
You know how heavy moisture travels down to the wheel pistons by gravity... I was wondering if plumbing a "dirty-leg trap" on a T could simply eliminate that issue ?
🤞
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Sep 20, 2022 at 12:20 PM.
"Slow and steady"... one bite of dust in the face after another laying under the beast. It will all feel good once you get done.
What section did you find the most rusted line ??
Are you going to protect your new lines at all?
You know how heavy moisture travels down to the wheel pistons by gravity... I was wondering if plumbing a "dirty-leg trap" on a T could simply eliminate that issue ?
🤞
The most rust was around the gas tank! imagine that, but I guess the ones that were the worst are the ones by the rear calipers from the hoses up. I'm at the limit of my expertise, just trying to make them look like the stock ones and getting them into the brackets is enough, so although I love the idea of a leg trap and coating them with something, after I get them in and bled, maybe . LOL, 13 hours in...
Last edited by pierrejoliat; Sep 20, 2022 at 06:43 PM.
My RIGHT front brake caliper work, I got unlucky. The plug to stop brake fluid dripping from the steel pipe to rubber hose, I installed at the wrong position and it slipped away and I lost like 0.5 liters of fluid.
loosing the fluid is not the problem, the air into the brake system was massive.
Below is the correct placement and the plug won't slip.... ( LEFT FRONT CALIPER )
That black square holder has a hole, so the blue* plug ( *from MitiVac Vacuum/Presure Kit ) has a lip and it will get "locked" by the hole and all good.
This is how the blue plug looks like
The holder has a metal insert hole/round shape to lock the flexible hose end fitting of the brake hose, as below. The hose end has 2 locking barb/protrusion.
I think to maximize air bleeding later, you can try what I did today Pierre. But it is slow though.
I made the hose and the small catch bottle higher than the brake fluid reservoir. I use the Mitivac vacuum hand pump.
This save lots of brake fluids.
Okey dokey....... dont tire yourself too much yah. Take it easy....
OK you guys of great help, I have completed the brake line install from Anti-lock unit to rear wheels, Wow, took 21 hours to complete, but got all the lines back into all the retainers and connected, filled with fluid and no leaks so far! Have a friend coming today to help with the bleeding process and have everything back together but the wheels. I did take Left Coast Geek's suggestion and used Copper/ Nickel lines, not just because they last longer, but because they are way easier to bend than coated steel which was stock.
I think the bleeding will go well and look forward to getting the car off the jack stands and floor jacks, wheels on and get my wife out of my car, LOL. I bought two Liters of Dot 4+ so should have enough.
So just to recap, MC was leaking, but only under brake pressure, which is why it could sit without leaking for days at a time, the leak was so small and brake fluid so clear and thin that the booster did not look wet, it was not obvious at all and as earlier mentioned had no signs of malfunction, there was no fluid in brake booster, I lucked out there! I will update after the bleeding process and first ride around the block.
Also; I might suggest not doing this job on a garage floor or lift quite frankly if yo are as old as I am, I had plenty of room and a creeper to get around on, but I hurt all over! Also I want to thank all of you for your expertise and moral support, couldn't of done it without you!!!! And to Toledo Tom. thanks as well, without your comments I might have given up and taken it to my Indy, instead I saved like TWO GRAND in labor. Cheers
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Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
Hopefully!
