E-Class (W212) 2010 - 2016: E 350, E 550

2014 E350 OEM+ Build

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Old 10-14-2022, 02:51 AM
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2015 ML400 4MATIC, 2014 E350 4MATIC, 2006 E350
2014 E350 OEM+ Build

Well. I hope this all helps. This is just what I remember off the top of my head. Here's my 2014 E350 W4M Canada Spec.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...1462d6ef9a.png
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...0dd03f5fd2.jpg

792 Palladium Silver
Black ANTHRACITE aka Black Leather Interior
(Notice the Keyless Go Button is a diagram, I think this is because Canada is a Bilingual Country)

Options
  • Driver's Assistance Package
  • Premium Package (Harman Kardon, Keyless GO, Parktronic and etc.)
  • Heated Rear Seats
  • Locking Lug Nuts
  • 360° Camera
  • AMG Style 18" Wheels (Not in Pictures)
  • ARTICO Stitched Dash
  • Intelligent Light System
  • Heated Steering Wheel

Add ons I've Added
  • MB Roof Rack (Avoid if I were you, losing the end caps is not fun) and Bike Racks
  • WeatherTech Mats
  • MB Cargo Tray
  • Comfort Box/Connivence Box
  • MB Coat Hanger
  • OEM Spoiler off E63 (Accessory included on MY16 W212 Canadian Models)
  • Distronic Star
  • 45% Suntek Carbon Tint
  • PPF on Front Bumper and Headlights Xpel Ultimate

Coding:
  • ILS to EU
  • Trunk Closure via SmartKey
  • All way Air Distribution through vents
  • Fuel in Litres
  • Traffic Sign Assist
  • Typing in Motion
  • Map Update to 2020
  • Tunnel Mode
  • SMS in Motion

Repairs/Maintenance I've experienced (M276.952) with ~172.900KM (Owned since ~111.000KM) (Updated 10/14/22 - Now 193,800KM)

Previous Owner:
  • Replaced under tray; Customer Drove over log
  • Brake Rotors Several times due to warping
  • Windshield resealed due to wind noise
  • Oil (5W-40), Oil filter, Cabin Air Filter, and Key batteries and etc.
By me:
  • Bosch Spark Plugs (Did it a bit overdue)
  • Bosch Wipers (Not universal, OE for 212 series with updated arms)
  • Main Battery
  • Timing Chain covers leaking (Resealed)
  • Dip Stick O-Ring (Dip Stick Popping up issue)
  • Speaker Melting Issue (Almost Done haha) - Give up fixing
  • Temperature Sensor (Ripped off by dealer when changing Cabin Air Filter at some point in its life)
  • Parking Sensor pushed into bumper
  • Engine Air Filter
  • Cabin Air Filter (Mann Frecious Plus)
  • New Lower Centre Chrome piece for front bumper
  • Center Console Tension Repair
  • Transmission Service
  • Sunroof Greased
  • Chrome Trim along door replaced (Kinda damaged it when loading bikes onto the roof)
  • Recall (Steering Rack Bolts) Internal Bulletin
  • Replaced Front Passenger Side Window Switch
  • Front Pads and Rotors
  • Left Outer Taillight
  • New Timing Chain Tensioners
  • New Camshaft Solenoid Magnets
  • Kick Sensor
  • Blind Spot Sensors + Wiring Harness
  • Alignment + Roadforce Balancing
  • Rear Pads and Rotors - Went with Zimmerman and Akebono
  • Brake Fluid Flushed
  • Carplay Module - Do NOT Recommend
  • Regreased Blower Motor - Did not fix the issue but eh
  • New to me wheels with new Continental DWS 06's
Here is the car today...





Check out my comprehensive W212 Guide Thread

I hope to make this more of a build thread. But I've kinda done most of the things to the car today. Need to enable Collison Prevention Assist on the car (EU Version of the US Collison Warning)

Overall the W212 is very reliable and I'm sure you will love it, just watch out for these and you'll be fine
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Old 10-14-2022, 03:01 AM
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Chain Tensioners and Camshaft Magnets were done at 193,000KM I would recommend setting aside two days to complete this job. It took us 11 hours roughly with cleaning, having trouble seating the intake plenum and some trips to Canadian Tire aka Auto Parts Store. Note this was our first time doing this on a M276. I had a mechanically inclined friend helping.

Things to note:
  • Good Idea to spin the engine by hand to ensure you do not have any bad sprockets (In our case, the engine made no clicks; refer to videos to hear what a bad sprocket sounds like) - The reason for the failure is due a pin being worn in the sprocket, causing the sprocket to skip.
  • Good time to change any pulley(s) that are covered by the throttle body
  • Use new bolts for only the front timing covers as marked by the blue heads
  • Spend a good chunk of time cleaning everything. It helps
  • Good time to change spark plugs and coils- if you're buying from FCP Euro - I lucked out unfortunately.
  • Things to note, I've noticed a lot of people do not sand or clean the surface of the front timing covers. To have a better bond, we used a scuff pad to get the surface to bare metal, which it may have already been but oxidized



Last edited by ml3504matic____; 10-17-2022 at 11:31 AM.
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Old 10-15-2022, 07:27 PM
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Thank you for the great post may i ask what did you use for the coding part
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Old 10-16-2022, 12:59 AM
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Nice work. Things last for as long as you take care of them.
Old 10-16-2022, 03:36 AM
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W212 FL
That's awesome, thanks for sharing
Happy Driving
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Old 10-21-2022, 04:14 PM
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Another bad taillight is making me want to do an EU Taillight conversion now.

More on this soon
Old 10-31-2022, 01:22 AM
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Service B Performed at 195,233KM

Cabin Air Filter - Only after 20,000km roughly was really dirty. Mann suggests to replace 1 year or 20,000km I believe, but keep in mind the conflict of interest here…

Went for Mann FreciousPlus

Engine Air Filter - Mildly Dirty; Sorry! Don’t have photos. Dirty enough to warrant whacking a few times but I had a new one on hand. Went for Hengst, as it was cheaper than Mann. It’s a pain to get to. But once you’ve done it a few times, it’s still painful. It gets slightly easier haha.

Engine Oil and Filter - Went for Pennzoil 5W-40 last time. With winter coming up, my friend suggested to use 0W-40. With Mobil 1 0W-40 at $29.99CAD or $31.99CAD (Can’t remember off the top of my head) + $10 Canadian Tire Rebate earlier this year, can’t go wrong. I went for MB Oil filter which is a Purflux Part as I personally prefer to have more filter media, given the triangular design, as compared to Mann’s version for M276. Went for Genuine as it was cheaper/same price as going with OE, after my discount.

Pumped out with a MityVac Pump. Quick and Easy drain, minus the amount I spilled but we don’t talk about that.

Checked Tire Pressure, still have to do the spare. Recently balanced the wheels via Road force Balancing earlier in the week after damaging one of my rims.

Lubricanted all the hinges including the hood latches with WD-40’s Silicone

Brakes were bled 2 months ago, on time/a little late ~45,000km 2 years with DOT 4+ MB fluid. It’s too expensive, get the OE Equivalent.

Applied Sonax Rubber Care to all the seals to keep them suptle.

Been on film sets and car hasn’t been washed in 2/3 Weeks about 2,300km since the last wash. All washed now!

Sorry for not including any photos of the process, nothing too interesting. But I’ll try to grab some photos of the old filters.

Ready for more km…









Last edited by ml3504matic____; 10-31-2022 at 01:28 AM.
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Old 10-31-2022, 08:43 AM
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May I ask if you checked the brake lines "corrosion status"? These lines are reported to rust in the Northern States of the USA because of salt on the road in the winter.

I lived in Ontario for 16 years, and rusted brake lines are not fun. Not on an MB at the time though.
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Old 10-31-2022, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by juanmor40
May I ask if you checked the brake lines "corrosion status"? These lines are reported to rust in the Northern States of the USA because of salt on the road in the winter.

I lived in Ontario for 16 years, and rusted brake lines are not fun. Not on an MB at the time though.
Minimal corrosion on the car, the previous owner, from 2014 to 2019, drove the car to Flordia for, I assume, the majority of the winters, as I believe they also owned a W204; they probably took the bigger car down for such a long drive. The car gets rinsed down during winter very frequently by me. There was a point where I washed the car twice a week.
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Old 10-31-2022, 03:31 PM
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Just did EU Collison Prevention Assist coding to the car, will test and report. No change in menus surprisingly + Sunroof Coding for rain
Old 11-12-2022, 06:11 PM
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Where'd you get the USB to update your maps? I ordered one from MBnavupdates and never got it, ever even got a verification email.
Old 11-12-2022, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by ath20
Where'd you get the USB to update your maps? I ordered one from MBnavupdates and never got it, ever even got a verification email.
Tell your credit card you never got the product, and they will reimburse you.
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Old 11-12-2022, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by ath20
Where'd you get the USB to update your maps? I ordered one from MBnavupdates and never got it, ever even got a verification email.
I got it from CodeFastBuy
Old 11-12-2022, 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by juanmor40
Tell your credit card you never got the product, and they will reimburse you.
Oh, I already did. Hahaha. I'm from Atlanta, no one gonna out-scam me.

Originally Posted by ml3504matic____
I got it from CodeFastBuy
Thanks! I'll look into it.
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Old 11-13-2022, 12:05 AM
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What are you using to code your modules? I am also looking into converting my 2016 E250 that has the ILS to EU, and enable Auto High Beam.
Old 11-20-2022, 01:56 AM
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Originally Posted by LeonF
What are you using to code your modules? I am also looking into converting my 2016 E250 that has the ILS to EU, and enable Auto High Beam.
You’d need vedamio to code these features in.
Old 11-20-2022, 02:03 AM
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~197,470km, changed out Spark Plugs and Coils, went for Bosch, but have regrets. Maybe should’ve gone for NGK everything.

72,000km (hard driving) on the spark plugs and there appears to be a decent amount of oil residue and appear to have been over torqued last time they were done? Even though they were torqued last time.

Found out one of the coil boots have been broken for some time, so new coils were more then overdue.

Took about 4.5 Hours

Intake Plenum Removal is NOT required for this.

Though you’ll need the correct socket, 14mm 12pt spark plug socket, and universal joint socket.

ECU Removal is also required. Clearance is very tight.

Shoutout to my friend Kosta for helping me immensely, aka doing most of the work.




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Old 11-20-2022, 02:07 AM
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New Genuine EU taillights have been ordered, getting used ones would be a chore, as they fail internally, can be repaired but requires cutting the housing.

Retrofit to come soon.

Let me know if anyone is interested in a lightly used left outer taillight, had bought a new one originally as one had went out, 1 year old.
Old 11-20-2022, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by ml3504matic____
I got it from CodeFastBuy

Hey, just wanted to let you know I got the code from there, and it worked fine. Their customer service was good. Thanks!

Last edited by ath20; 11-20-2022 at 11:20 AM.
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Old 12-13-2022, 07:43 PM
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Finally got the taillights installed, wired, and coded.

Part Numbers of the Taillight are A212 906 07 03, A212 906 08 03

I inspected them at Pickup from ExoParts and also had to order the connectors for the 0.75mm Automotive Grade Wire (Do NOT use anything larger)

Part Number for Connectors 4X A013 545 44 26






In the car, they go!

Retrofitting the lights is relatively easy, with 8mm bolts to remove the existing light units. You will need to remove the carpeting, along with the plastic shroud and back panel plastic that sits behind the rear seats. Highly Recommend using Pry Tools.

Vedamio Coding is REQUIRED. Thank you Nate.

This is the finished product. NOTE: There are apparently different variants of the EU taillights for different trim levels. To my knowledge, There are two; one has a red housing on the back, and one has a black housing; it appears the red-coloured housing appears to mainly be for the Early 2014 model years. The ones I bought did not match, but I believe EU taillights are a different (darker) shade of red, or my inner lights are just worn from 200,000KM. Still unsure about this, but those are my theories. No online Xentry Adaptations are needed, like the headlights.

EDIT:

This is not true. From what I see, ECE/ROW Lights run at a different Red Hue than US/CA Lights. I have since adjusted the individual voltages for the taillights (Thank you Shane) for them to match "better." In terms of intensity, the matching of intensity is exactly the same, just a mildly different hue now; for me not worth switching them out quite yet.





Next up is maybe Genuine Carbon Fibre Mirror Caps, I found a really good price for them.


Last edited by ml3504matic____; 06-26-2023 at 10:25 PM.
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Old 12-29-2022, 07:19 PM
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Well, for my birthday found out my 3 year and 4 months battery is on its way out. Don’t recommend getting a Varta (Genuine Mercedes Battery) Battery solely due to warranty. If I had originally gone with Energizer or even Motomaster, it would be a free replacement within the five years.

Decided to go with an Energizer AGM Battery from Costco, manufactured in November 2022. No complaints.

Explains my Eco start stop button off by default without coding, and my side markers turn on and off randomly

Last edited by ml3504matic____; 01-01-2023 at 05:51 AM.
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Old 12-30-2022, 01:21 AM
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W212 FL
I have been using Varta for a long time and very satisfied with it . I'm glad you are happy with your new battery as well. My car also never turns on ECO since I bought it ,I think it needs a battery or auxiliary battery in the trunk . I like the way it never turns on ECO but kinda worries me as well
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Old 12-30-2022, 01:45 AM
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Originally Posted by BenzV12
I have been using Varta for a long time and very satisfied with it . I'm glad you are happy with your new battery as well. My car also never turns on ECO since I bought it ,I think it needs a battery or auxiliary battery in the trunk . I like the way it never turns on ECO but kinda worries me as well
Varta is a great battery. Had a long life considering I was running here dashcam for a good part of a year, draining the battery down to 12.0 V every time. But given MB only to give a 2 year warranty, a battery that provides the same function with a free 5 year replacement made more sense for how I use and consume my battery and is more cost efficient.

I’d get your battery checked to see what the CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) to be. I recently replaced my Auxiliary battery but found long cranks and ECO to be really random. Working perfect now.

Can be a mixture of both.
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Old 12-31-2022, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by ml3504matic____
Finally got the taillights installed, wired, and coded.

Part Numbers of the Taillight are A212 906 07 03, A212 906 08 03

I inspected them at Pickup from ExoParts and also had to order the connectors for the 0.75mm Automotive Grade Wire (Do NOT use anything larger)

Part Number for Connectors 4X A013 545 44 26






In the car, they go!

Retrofitting the lights is relatively easy, with 8mm bolts to remove the existing light units. You will need to remove the carpeting, along with the plastic shroud and back panel plastic that sits behind the rear seats. Highly Recommend using Pry Tools.

Vedamio Coding is REQUIRED. Thank you Nate.

This is the finished product. NOTE: There are apparently different variants of the EU taillights for different trim levels. To my knowledge, There are two; one has a red housing on the back, and one has a black housing; it appears the red-coloured housing appears to mainly be for the Early 2014 model years. The ones I bought did not match, but I believe EU taillights are a different (darker) shade of red, or my inner lights are just worn from 200,000KM. Still unsure about this, but those are my theories. No online Xentry Adaptations are needed, like the headlights.





Next up is maybe Genuine Carbon Fibre Mirror Caps, I found a really good price for them.
Are they not sequential? I just assumed they were and that's why the NA market for the ones with the red signals, like on the Audis.
Old 01-01-2023, 05:53 AM
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Originally Posted by ath20
Are they not sequential? I just assumed they were and that's why the NA market for the ones with the red signals, like on the Audis.
They are NOT. Audi’s have sequential turn signals here as well.

It’s a mixture of poor regulation, cutting cost and controlling exportation of cars. Hence why NA cars get red turn signals.


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