2014 E350 OEM+ Build




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792 Palladium Silver
Black ANTHRACITE aka Black Leather Interior
(Notice the Keyless Go Button is a diagram, I think this is because Canada is a Bilingual Country)
Options
- Driver's Assistance Package
- Premium Package (Harman Kardon, Keyless GO, Parktronic and etc.)
- Heated Rear Seats
- Locking Lug Nuts
- 360° Camera
- AMG Style 18" Wheels (Not in Pictures)
- ARTICO Stitched Dash
- Intelligent Light System
- Heated Steering Wheel
Add ons I've Added
- MB Roof Rack (Avoid if I were you, losing the end caps is not fun) and Bike Racks
- WeatherTech Mats
- MB Cargo Tray
- Comfort Box/Connivence Box
- MB Coat Hanger
- OEM Spoiler off E63 (Accessory included on MY16 W212 Canadian Models)
- Distronic Star
- 45% Suntek Carbon Tint
- PPF on Front Bumper and Headlights Xpel Ultimate
Coding:
- ILS to EU
- Trunk Closure via SmartKey
- All way Air Distribution through vents
- Fuel in Litres
- Traffic Sign Assist
- Typing in Motion
- Map Update to 2020
- Tunnel Mode
- SMS in Motion
Repairs/Maintenance I've experienced (M276.952) with ~172.900KM (Owned since ~111.000KM) (Updated 10/14/22 - Now 193,800KM)
Previous Owner:
- Replaced under tray; Customer Drove over log
- Brake Rotors Several times due to warping
- Windshield resealed due to wind noise
- Oil (5W-40), Oil filter, Cabin Air Filter, and Key batteries and etc.
- Bosch Spark Plugs (Did it a bit overdue)
- Bosch Wipers (Not universal, OE for 212 series with updated arms)
- Main Battery
- Timing Chain covers leaking (Resealed)
- Dip Stick O-Ring (Dip Stick Popping up issue)
- Speaker Melting Issue (Almost Done haha) - Give up fixing
- Temperature Sensor (Ripped off by dealer when changing Cabin Air Filter at some point in its life)
- Parking Sensor pushed into bumper
- Engine Air Filter
- Cabin Air Filter (Mann Frecious Plus)
- New Lower Centre Chrome piece for front bumper
- Center Console Tension Repair
- Transmission Service
- Sunroof Greased
- Chrome Trim along door replaced (Kinda damaged it when loading bikes onto the roof)
- Recall (Steering Rack Bolts) Internal Bulletin
- Replaced Front Passenger Side Window Switch
- Front Pads and Rotors
- Left Outer Taillight
- New Timing Chain Tensioners
- New Camshaft Solenoid Magnets
- Kick Sensor
- Blind Spot Sensors + Wiring Harness
- Alignment + Roadforce Balancing
- Rear Pads and Rotors - Went with Zimmerman and Akebono
- Brake Fluid Flushed
- Carplay Module - Do NOT Recommend
- Regreased Blower Motor - Did not fix the issue but eh
- New to me wheels with new Continental DWS 06's
Check out my comprehensive W212 Guide Thread
I hope to make this more of a build thread. But I've kinda done most of the things to the car today. Need to enable Collison Prevention Assist on the car (EU Version of the US Collison Warning)
Overall the W212 is very reliable and I'm sure you will love it, just watch out for these and you'll be fine





Things to note:
- Good Idea to spin the engine by hand to ensure you do not have any bad sprockets (In our case, the engine made no clicks; refer to videos to hear what a bad sprocket sounds like) - The reason for the failure is due a pin being worn in the sprocket, causing the sprocket to skip.
- Good time to change any pulley(s) that are covered by the throttle body
- Use new bolts for only the front timing covers as marked by the blue heads
- Spend a good chunk of time cleaning everything. It helps
- Good time to change spark plugs and coils- if you're buying from FCP Euro - I lucked out unfortunately.
- Things to note, I've noticed a lot of people do not sand or clean the surface of the front timing covers. To have a better bond, we used a scuff pad to get the surface to bare metal, which it may have already been but oxidized
Last edited by ml3504matic____; Oct 17, 2022 at 11:31 AM.








Cabin Air Filter - Only after 20,000km roughly was really dirty. Mann suggests to replace 1 year or 20,000km I believe, but keep in mind the conflict of interest here…
Went for Mann FreciousPlus
Engine Air Filter - Mildly Dirty; Sorry! Don’t have photos. Dirty enough to warrant whacking a few times but I had a new one on hand. Went for Hengst, as it was cheaper than Mann. It’s a pain to get to. But once you’ve done it a few times, it’s still painful. It gets slightly easier haha.
Engine Oil and Filter - Went for Pennzoil 5W-40 last time. With winter coming up, my friend suggested to use 0W-40. With Mobil 1 0W-40 at $29.99CAD or $31.99CAD (Can’t remember off the top of my head) + $10 Canadian Tire Rebate earlier this year, can’t go wrong. I went for MB Oil filter which is a Purflux Part as I personally prefer to have more filter media, given the triangular design, as compared to Mann’s version for M276. Went for Genuine as it was cheaper/same price as going with OE, after my discount.
Pumped out with a MityVac Pump. Quick and Easy drain, minus the amount I spilled but we don’t talk about that.
Checked Tire Pressure, still have to do the spare. Recently balanced the wheels via Road force Balancing earlier in the week after damaging one of my rims.
Lubricanted all the hinges including the hood latches with WD-40’s Silicone
Brakes were bled 2 months ago, on time/a little late ~45,000km 2 years with DOT 4+ MB fluid. It’s too expensive, get the OE Equivalent.
Applied Sonax Rubber Care to all the seals to keep them suptle.
Been on film sets and car hasn’t been washed in 2/3 Weeks about 2,300km since the last wash. All washed now!
Sorry for not including any photos of the process, nothing too interesting. But I’ll try to grab some photos of the old filters.
Ready for more km…
Last edited by ml3504matic____; Oct 31, 2022 at 01:28 AM.
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I lived in Ontario for 16 years, and rusted brake lines are not fun. Not on an MB at the time though.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG




I lived in Ontario for 16 years, and rusted brake lines are not fun. Not on an MB at the time though.




















72,000km (hard driving) on the spark plugs and there appears to be a decent amount of oil residue and appear to have been over torqued last time they were done? Even though they were torqued last time.
Found out one of the coil boots have been broken for some time, so new coils were more then overdue.
Took about 4.5 Hours
Intake Plenum Removal is NOT required for this.
Though you’ll need the correct socket, 14mm 12pt spark plug socket, and universal joint socket.
ECU Removal is also required. Clearance is very tight.
Shoutout to my friend Kosta for helping me immensely, aka doing most of the work.




Retrofit to come soon.
Let me know if anyone is interested in a lightly used left outer taillight, had bought a new one originally as one had went out, 1 year old.




Part Numbers of the Taillight are A212 906 07 03, A212 906 08 03
I inspected them at Pickup from ExoParts and also had to order the connectors for the 0.75mm Automotive Grade Wire (Do NOT use anything larger)
Part Number for Connectors 4X A013 545 44 26
In the car, they go!
Retrofitting the lights is relatively easy, with 8mm bolts to remove the existing light units. You will need to remove the carpeting, along with the plastic shroud and back panel plastic that sits behind the rear seats. Highly Recommend using Pry Tools.
Vedamio Coding is REQUIRED. Thank you Nate.
This is the finished product. NOTE: There are apparently different variants of the EU taillights for different trim levels. To my knowledge, There are two; one has a red housing on the back, and one has a black housing; it appears the red-coloured housing appears to mainly be for the Early 2014 model years. The ones I bought did not match, but I believe EU taillights are a different (darker) shade of red, or my inner lights are just worn from 200,000KM. Still unsure about this, but those are my theories. No online Xentry Adaptations are needed, like the headlights.
EDIT:
This is not true. From what I see, ECE/ROW Lights run at a different Red Hue than US/CA Lights. I have since adjusted the individual voltages for the taillights (Thank you Shane) for them to match "better." In terms of intensity, the matching of intensity is exactly the same, just a mildly different hue now; for me not worth switching them out quite yet.
Next up is maybe Genuine Carbon Fibre Mirror Caps, I found a really good price for them.
Last edited by ml3504matic____; Jun 26, 2023 at 10:25 PM.




Decided to go with an Energizer AGM Battery from Costco, manufactured in November 2022. No complaints.
Explains my Eco start stop button off by default without coding, and my side markers turn on and off randomly
Last edited by ml3504matic____; Jan 1, 2023 at 05:51 AM.





I’d get your battery checked to see what the CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) to be. I recently replaced my Auxiliary battery but found long cranks and ECO to be really random. Working perfect now.
Can be a mixture of both.
Part Numbers of the Taillight are A212 906 07 03, A212 906 08 03
I inspected them at Pickup from ExoParts and also had to order the connectors for the 0.75mm Automotive Grade Wire (Do NOT use anything larger)
Part Number for Connectors 4X A013 545 44 26
In the car, they go!
Retrofitting the lights is relatively easy, with 8mm bolts to remove the existing light units. You will need to remove the carpeting, along with the plastic shroud and back panel plastic that sits behind the rear seats. Highly Recommend using Pry Tools.
Vedamio Coding is REQUIRED. Thank you Nate.
This is the finished product. NOTE: There are apparently different variants of the EU taillights for different trim levels. To my knowledge, There are two; one has a red housing on the back, and one has a black housing; it appears the red-coloured housing appears to mainly be for the Early 2014 model years. The ones I bought did not match, but I believe EU taillights are a different (darker) shade of red, or my inner lights are just worn from 200,000KM. Still unsure about this, but those are my theories. No online Xentry Adaptations are needed, like the headlights.
Next up is maybe Genuine Carbon Fibre Mirror Caps, I found a really good price for them.




It’s a mixture of poor regulation, cutting cost and controlling exportation of cars. Hence why NA cars get red turn signals.


