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2013 E350 Facelift (Japan Import) 2007 E350 Elegance Wagon, 2014 E350 Wagon facelift model Jap Model
NTG 4.5 / 4.7 Wiring Image & Diagram FOUND!!
I've spent ages pic hunting and finally found a clear colour image of the back of the 4.5 / 4.7 SatNav head units so i know where to splice into for an external connection into the Aux input into the unit.
My car is a Jap import and the Aux/AMI port is stolen so its connected to their Toll Pass system that integrates into the cars audio system...MASSIVE pain in the *** figuring this out!!!
Any way here is the diagram with a great explanation of each sections pin outs....plus a pic of the nightmare I went through connecting an Android 12" touch screen!!
Nearly sent me to the mad house figuring out the wiring for this bloody Toll Pass system!!!!
You noted how NTG has its own fan control... NTG dedicated fan
There is a fist-sized fan located by the glovebox side with its own tiny air filter : KEEP IT FLOWING (or poke a small hole in it for cooling insurance)
The other interesting thing is NTG consumes CAN-B data... Since new my NTG took its time to wake up during car start.
Now the whole NTG unit completely boots faster than its display. The radio sound starts playing while the display is still showing the Benz Star.
So NTG faster than its peripheral display.
2013 E350 Facelift (Japan Import) 2007 E350 Elegance Wagon, 2014 E350 Wagon facelift model Jap Model
Originally Posted by CaliBenzDriver
now you know where some of us hang out then
Thank you for sharing this wiring gem.
You noted how NTG has its own fan control... NTG dedicated fan
There is a fist-sized fan located by the glovebox side with its own tiny air filter : KEEP IT FLOWING (or poke a small hole in it for cooling insurance)
The other interesting thing is NTG consumes CAN-B data... Since new my NTG took its time to wake up during car start.
Now the whole NTG unit completely boots faster than its display. The radio sound starts playing while the display is still showing the Benz Star.
So NTG faster than its peripheral display.
YES!!! I did find the amazingly well engineered intake and filter system, stuff like this is why i love these cars so much, attention to detail and build quality over cost....
What did you do to speed up the booting of the NTG?
Mate, the way you have your car disassembled, I can direct you to resolder your central console rotary knob. It is directly connected to NTG.
I think this may be your ticket, if not tackle your solderless SCM steering column module and the nearby EIS Ignition module. These 2 are definitely well worth your efforts on CAN-C. The yield is super fast smooth shifts instead of hanged gears and banging downshifts from factory.
If all of that does not specifically speed up your CAN-B, then we'll go see Rear SAM module, very easy to deal with.
Understand how substandard CAN performance is easily reached with high packet retransmit traffic.
Couple ways MB engineers carefully crafted chaos:
poor grounding points
extra long lines to ground
solderless module connections
glitchy PWM unfiltered environment
lack of DTC bugchecks in under tested code
.... 😳
We can use these vehicles the way they are so long as limp modes don't wreck at high speed. The solderless ISM/ESM/DSM tranny shifter by Continental/Siemens is ridiculous malicious contraption...
Milk any of the convenience features is great but don't limp mode the powertrain or kill the starter - Lives depend on basic reliability.
When hardly connected solderless connections are stressed beyond design life (heat cycles, current surges, vibrations) the CAN communication bandwidth gets used up. It makes the car act-up such as disarmed car honks when opening a door...
High data rate CAN-C is deployed because of the bandwith volume necessary to support traffic.
When too many nodes start to fload retransmit, services get degraded by priorities. This is what lands F-SAM soft crashed crazy.
At that game you can get random misfires from the ECU because it's affected externally.
Eliminating solderless gotchas is a simple way to improve these chassis.
✌️
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Oct 22, 2022 at 03:53 AM.
Can you please point us more what to do in the mouse module and which ground should be checked, i have also an aftermarket android screen i have some issues with can bus.
Can you please point us more what to do in the mouse module and which ground should be checked.
I have also an aftermarket android screen i have some issues with can bus.
The end goal is to deliver proper connections... GND, PWR, CAN.
You have 3 ways to go: proactive or reactive + hybrid combination mix as you go.
The scope is most of the chassis needs rework. I started a thread a while back that covers this topic in more details.
As for Mouse/Wheel + E/S central console modules: solderless CAN connections
solderless LIN connections
Simply solder everyone of these joints... 2¢ fix.
As for poor GND the scope is a 100% campaign bumper to bumper.
Focus on what you have most accessible:
rear trunk,
front footwells,
central cross beams,
engine bay,
front beams.
I believe, it is a whole lot easier to rework these engineered defects than to sort through the resulting chaos, such as:
voltage yoyo,
acceleration stumble,
limp-modes,
no start,
random misfires,
rough shifts,
one-eye jack HL,
ninja trunk kick,
goofy keyless,
Sleepless F-SAM batt drain,
rain sensor OCP
4x Doors buttons, windows,
2x Front seats memory stuck
HVAC (sensors, actuator, brain)
> all on the receiving end of solderless tricks.
Another way to go is by focussing on CAN-C VIP modules for powertrain -Or CAN-B because it is the most extensive. Everyone has different objectives and priorities.
The key to good coverage is to keep in mind the campaign scope vs. what you have not yet covered.
Initially my approach was investigative not knowing what to expect. I went from trunk towards the front.
Many leaders on this forums are extremely helpful and knowledgeable... everyone knows one piece of this MB puzzle -
Dig-in !
✌️
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Oct 22, 2022 at 06:50 PM.
So dumb question time, do you mean those connector pins need to be heated and re-soldered to fix their poor connectivity?
Thanks for the awesome pics too.
Yes indeed, it is mostly trivial.
Open up your rotary selector module, I'll help you to point things out for sordering. Your module will be better than new under 20mn for 1¢.
Discovery by scouting :
Initially the difficulty was discovering and figuring what we were after. These cars are extremely well built, in very specific ways to create needs...
Priorities :
At this stage, we could want to improve the rework campaign by prioritizing target modules with criterias. Either by simplicity, by VIP target or by Bus strings. Any of these choices make sense for DIY or PRO.
Waterproofing:
While you're fixing things up around your car, add RTV to connectors exposed to rain. This will prevent guaranteed destruction to Radar modules, HeadLights and the likes.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Oct 23, 2022 at 06:31 PM.
2013 E350 Facelift (Japan Import) 2007 E350 Elegance Wagon, 2014 E350 Wagon facelift model Jap Model
Originally Posted by CaliBenzDriver
Yes indeed, it is mostly trivial.
Open up your rotary selector module, I'll help you to point things out for sordering. Your module will be better than new under 20mn for 1¢.
Discovery by scouting :
Initially the difficulty was discovering and figuring what we were after. These cars are extremely well built, in very specific ways to create needs...
Priorities :
At this stage, we could want to improve the rework campaign by prioritizing target modules with criterias. Either by simplicity, by VIP target or by Bus strings. Any of these choices make sense for DIY or PRO.
Waterproofing:
While you're fixing things up around your car, add RTV to connectors exposed to rain. This will prevent guaranteed destruction to Radar modules, HeadLights and the likes.
Would water ingress be a possible issue I now have with a front parking sensor randomly alerting at full strength while driving and no objects being close to the car?
Would water ingress be a possible issue I now have with a front parking sensor randomly alerting at full strength while driving and no objects being close to the car?
yes all four short range radar modules are the same and equally sensitive to water through the leaky connector.
You eant to prevent that with RTV to waterproof the harness connector - Once bad, these modules steam up and are not salvageable.
Choices:.
Connectors that appear to "look waterproof" deserve RTV silicone ... else new module + coding down the road.
I also have a car with a 4.5/4.7 Satnat head that not have an Aux input to the unit.
My car is not a Jap import.
The Aux input was never intstalled in the car.
Most E212 cas has a AMI Interface but not mine.
Do you have any information how to connect an Aux input to the system?
Do I need som cables, do I need do enable some features in the commander system, what to do to get an Aux input?
You noted how NTG has its own fan control... NTG dedicated fan
There is a fist-sized fan located by the glovebox side with its own tiny air filter : KEEP IT FLOWING (or poke a small hole in it for cooling insurance)
The other interesting thing is NTG consumes CAN-B data... Since new my NTG took its time to wake up during car start.
Now the whole NTG unit completely boots faster than its display. The radio sound starts playing while the display is still showing the Benz Star.
So NTG faster than its peripheral display.
Are there any pictures or more information on this fan, would it cause radio failure if not enough air flow. I had the speaker output fail and just had repaired. Wanting to put off another $1k repair if I can
Are there any pictures or more information on this fan, would it cause radio failure if not enough air flow.
I had the speaker output fail and just had repaired. Wanting to put off another $1k repair if I can
dedicated standard NTG cooling fan
It is located on the passenger side near the side of your glove box.
I don't know yet what exact component is causing the NTG module to ghost. It's not uncommon. Power supply filtering caps have limited temp range. Effective service life can get reduced by undersizing insulation voltage or Farad value down to half. I love evidence so I won't speculate on what trick was used.
> Snowball: (NTG + SPK + Heater vs. blower)
Our focus is biased towards preventing built-in failures. Until NTG requires a bench surgery, we can decrease heat with better cooling as well as introducing less heat through uncontrolled 200°F heater core ("some cars only").
-- clean/remove filter of above blower
-- bypass heater core to keep NTG cooler in summer.
-- Dasboard SPK frequently goes bad.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Mar 12, 2023 at 01:04 AM.
let me try to find my picture of this dedicated NTG cooling fan. It is located on the passenger side by the side of your glove box.
I don't know what internal component causes our NTG module to quit working. Power supply filtering caps have limited temp range and service life.
.../....
Yes, I do light repairs, Home Stereos and guitar tube amps. I am also aware of heat and component failures. I chose not to service this one this time as I was getting cancer treatment, am cancer free at the moment. I use the car to travel 150miles to my Oncologist, sucks without tunes, used a Love device for a while, but...
Yes, I do light repairs, Home Stereos and guitar tube amps. I am also aware of heat and component failures. I chose not to service this one this time as I was getting cancer treatment, am cancer free at the moment. I use the car to travel 150miles to my Oncologist, sucks without tunes, used a Love device for a while, but...
Well if your NTG has gone bad already you have nothing to loose by opening it for repair.
Often time it's a minor detail that throws a wrench in the party. I have fixed a good dozen bad car stereo when i was a student.
in memoriam YJ
I've just lost a long time friend to a rapid liver cancer last week. He was a very bright spirit.
In his memory I'll help you hopefully get this fixed if you so desire for your comfort.
>>> Re-read updated post #15 above.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Mar 12, 2023 at 01:30 AM.
Thank you. I am so very sorry for your friend. Seems it does take the best of us all.
I had sent it to MandBSpecialists in FL, they had it fixed and back at my door while I was in recovery. It sat in a box for almost a week till I was able to reinstall it. Yes, my wife complained of my working on the car so soon, but It's how I lived and worked my whole life, I never slowed for anything.
Way back the first time I ever had kidney stones (a pain I wish on no person) I replace front struts and alignment on a 1999 Ford Taurus, the owner was waiting, before I went to the hospital. Not proud of that, just saying what kind of tech I was, I didn't give up till it was fixed right.
My head unit for 2014 GL 500 GCC spec.
Any idea what the circled ports are for?
My car has front camera, and side mirror cameras along with rear camera.
My car also have night vision camera for the front. But seems to be missing the No. 7 port from the first diagram which is supposed to be for Night Vision.
2016 E350 4Matic wagon, 2019 Ford Expedition, 2019 Chevy Bolt EV
Originally Posted by mbdxb
My head unit for 2014 GL 500 GCC spec...
thats not a W212, its a W166 and while they may share some components of the media system, the overall configuration is different, you'd likely find someone on the W166 section of mbworld who's more familiar with them. I could look up the wiring diagrams by your VIN but often that gives a whole collection of variants, and its time consuming to figure out which ones are applicable when you aren't familiar with the car and its options.
I've spent ages pic hunting and finally found a clear colour image of the back of the 4.5 / 4.7 SatNav head units so i know where to splice into for an external connection into the Aux input into the unit.
My car is a Jap import and the Aux/AMI port is stolen so its connected to their Toll Pass system that integrates into the cars audio system...MASSIVE pain in the *** figuring this out!!!
Any way here is the diagram with a great explanation of each sections pin outs....plus a pic of the nightmare I went through connecting an Android 12" touch screen!!
Nearly sent me to the mad house figuring out the wiring for this bloody Toll Pass system!!!!
I lose all radio presets a minute after switching off the ignition. Power to the window switches remain on when switching off the ignition for a few seconds. This co-insides with power shutting off to the radio upon which time I loose all radio and audio presets.
I want to check whether continuous power is being applied to the radio.
Question for someone who understands German Electrical abbreviations:
What pin is continuous power? Block A2 pin 12?
Thanks
Hi folks - just resurrecting this thread a little and a lot of credit @Aussie_E350_Wag for finding that diagram - however on a Japanese import, I've found a different connector on the back that seems to not have any real description as to its purpose (marked in purple below). Taking the diagram posted, I've marked the ones we're confident on - but have no idea what these are. The reason for asking is that this Japanese head unit is now locked (attempted to change region and it triggered anti-theft) and because the car is now in Europe, there appears to be no way to unlock it with European software, so it's now a paperweight.
I want to replace this head unit with an ECE unit and am happy to lose some features, such as TV Tuner and the like but I want to retain USB-IN and REAR CAMERA but I don't know what these two are and whether they're essential (I can't find an ECE unit with these connectors).
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Unit Variant: A2469008913
Description: Head Unit High JP Single
Model: NR-207
HW: A2489012002
SW: A2129026309
Year: June-2015
Sequence: NR-2071JBS2462
I have my Rear Cam connected to the left connector in 6. The right connector is the AV in? Is this AV in responsible for AUX? Because I have a new Car Play screen and I can't manage to make audio work, I've tried all settings and no signal. The only thing out of normal is this connector that is broken and was supposed to be plugged in the right side of the 6 connector. Also do anyone knows the part number for that cable if that's the case?
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NTG 4.5 / 4.7 Wiring Image & Diagram FOUND!!
