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I bought 2010 E350, not 4matic unfortunately but it was mint condition car with only 89k miles for 9500$ so I bought it… trying to find brakes and rotors and they asking sport package or without. How do I tell the difference? It does have the C/S button but they all probably do. Is there anyway to find out? I check the VIN and it don’t say whether it is or not
Post your vin. If you run it through the vin decoder, if it had the sports package, it would usually say so. Otherwise it sometimes mention whether you have a particular package or not. Are you doing the front or the rears? Usually people go with Akebono brake pads, no dust and Zimmerman rotors from FCPEuro, lifetime warranty on all their parts, most places don't do that on brake pads and rotors.
Diameter of front rotor is different on my E400 with 950 AMG sports package. 344mm I get instead of I think 322mm. I do not know what 951 option will give.
4 piston brembo instead of single floating piston caliper.
So my brake pad is different.
Use Brembo search function for reference, it may help
Brembo seems to indicate an E350 front rotor with drilled holes as sport and non sport has no holes
Both non sport and sport is 322mm rotor.
Check your rotor and caliper. Its seems 951 sports package is Brembo caliper ( I do not know the number of pistons ) but 322mm drilled rotor
I am sure if indeed yours is a Brembo caliper , it wont be a single floating piston design.
afaik, only differrence in the sport vs comfort/lux brakes on the V6 cars is drilled vs undrilled rotors, and they are interchangable.
that is the case for mine, which is a sport version. One of the best things I have done for the car was to replace the front drilled rotors for the luxury version which are not drilled, and the ackemibono whatever ceramic pads, both from fcpeuro. Did it a few years back and about 20k miles ago. Been perfect ever since.
2016 E350 4Matic wagon, 2019 Ford Expedition, 2019 Chevy Bolt EV
when I said V6, i probably should have qualified by non-turbo. The E350 up to 2016 share the same calibers , and pads, and the only brake difference is drilled vs non-drilled pads of identical geometry, and IMHO the non-drilled are better over all.
You don't want 4matic anyway unless you need it. The 4matic E550's not only require more fluid service but uh, you have to pull the axle to access one of the engine mounts. Also note there is a 57mm deep rotor for the coupes, and a 68mm deep for the sedan. To the best of my knowledge the 68mm is the sedan fitment per my last brake job I did.
Ill make life easy. I have no particular attachment to Pagid, Brembo, or Zimmerman. They all make fantastic brake parts it's just about where they're made and how available they are. Pagid has been relocated to Chinese production for some of their applications, I still like them a lot. I generally use them on all my German cars usually just because they're less expensive and I've never gotten a bad set in 10 years. Brembo is Brembo, the UV coating leaves a WAY nicer finish than the primer-esque z-wear or pagid's coating. The coatings only affect the non braking surfaces but make disc removal much easier. Zimmerman isn't very expensive and came with the car. FCP has a really nice setup with Akebono pads. I run Akebonos on the AMG's with no drama or complaints. I 1000% recommend you ditch the metallic factory pads and swap to a quiet, low dust ceramic which is at least half as hard on rotors. You sacrifice initial cold bite on ONE stop in the morning but after that you will not notice and the pedal feels firmer which is nicer for most people.
Also make sure your rotors are high-carbon. It's just another type of cast-iron, one step above G3000. I haven't noticed a difference but apparently it withstands warpage better than plain cast iron rotors and thus run quieter if you do a lot of high-speed braking.
Sadly, if you want a E350 wagon, you're going to get 4matic no matter what, as thats the only way they were sold. But, the OP said, E350 non-4matic.
I mean all the amgs are 4matic these days. It only really affects the engine mount service on the v8 afaik and the obvious differential fluid. All mercedes have so much gosh dang torque i dont notice the extra weight on the customer cars
when I said V6, i probably should have qualified by non-turbo. The E350 up to 2016 share the same calibers , and pads, and the only brake difference is drilled vs non-drilled pads of identical geometry, and IMHO the non-drilled are better over all.
can confirm this info is correct(although i think he meant drilled vs non-drilled ROTORS not pads) after doing the brakes on my 2013 E350 4Matic sport sedan w/ 772 amg appearance package this weekend. For the past month or so i began researching what parts i needed to order, and looking for any info related to DIYing this job since it would be my first time doing the brakes on this car. I was checking the forums, and all the threads related to w212 brakes. My car has the 772 AMG appearance package, so i was looking for specific information regarding cars with this package, but couldnt find a definitive answer regarding compatibility. Even when asking FCPeuro, they said the pads were compatible but the rotors were not, and pointed me to different front and rear rotors for cars that have the 772 package. When i asked if the rotors for non 772 package cars were compatible as well, they said no, which i now know is incorrect.
I can now confirm that the only difference in cars that have the 772 package, is that the front rotors are drilled vs the normal E350 front rotors are not but they are both the same exact size and interchangeable. Every other part (including the rear rotors) is exactly the same on models with or without the 772 package. This means all the brake parts are interchangeable and the only factor to consider, when shopping for parts, is if you want drilled front rotors or not, and the part number for the drilled rotors on 772 package cars will fit on cars without the 772 package.
It also wasn't clear on the forums and the part sites if i needed 4 brake pad sensors (1 for each wheel), or just 2 (1 per axle), and can now confirm you only need 1 per axle. The 1 sensor on each axle is attached to the passenger side wheel. They are different sensors for the front and rear though, so make sure you get the correct one.
Overall this brake job was very easy to DIY. The only gotcha id like to mention, for any DIYers doing this for the first time, like i just did, is that the caliper bracket bolts are HEX bolts. They are also torqued to 85 ft/lb so they were a PIA to get off. On the first wheel i started with, when i got to these caliper bracket bolts, i initially tried to loosen the top one by sticking a standard 19mm 12 point ratcheting wrench on it and wacking the wrench with a rubber mallet to see if that would break it loose. The wrench kept slipping and it started to round the bolt so i stopped, stuck my head completely behind the hub so i can look at them and quickly realized they were HEX bolts. I then grabbed a ratchet with a 19mm impact hex socket on it, used all my strength, and eventually they loosened and came off. Mercedes says your supposed to replace these bolts during each brake job because they have a little thread locker on the ends, but i don't think you need to (especially since they are $8.50 each from Mercedes, and there is 2 per wheel). They are huge bolts so i wasnt concerned and reused mine.
One thing that i wanted to ask is that i think my rear pads and rotors were original from when the car was new. Can anyone comment on if this is possible or not on a 2013 with 82k miles on it! I know the rear brakes are subject to much less wear than the front brakes are, but has anyone else had rear brakes last 12 years/82k miles? Its possible they were replaced sometime during the cars life, and wasnt listed on the carfax, but all the parts removed from the rear were mercedes original parts with mercedes part numbers, and the rear rotors were extremely warped to the wheel hub, it took forever to get them off. Also, the metal brackets on the back of both rear brake pads were completely rusted.
Last edited by 2013W212; Sep 14, 2025 at 09:44 PM.
My luxury came with solid rotors and ceramic pads, my Sport came with drilled rotors and semi-metallic pads, I now have the Zimmerman solid rotors and Akebono ceramic pads on my Sport, it doesnt stop as well, but the difference is only slight, As I have both cars, I had to be careful in the past to remember which car I was driving as to stopping distance, now with the solid rotors and ceramic pads on my Sport, they are very close to the same.
My choice was Brembo rotors vented and drilled for the front, solid on the rear, and Akebono Ultra Premium Ceramic pads, as recommended elsewhere. Very smooth right from the start. Couldn't be happier.
One note that you may never need: I tried to get some 'deals' by ordering rotors from Amazon Warehouse Deals, not directly sold by Amazon, but from another seller via Amazon. They sent me the returns as I expected, and they were in good shape. However, the correct boxes contained some other rotor # inside them. And they had to go back.
Last edited by Sunnyslope48; Sep 15, 2025 at 11:35 AM.
Yes, i agree with the statements above, akebono makes the best brake pads for EVERY car. I also forgot to mention, if anyone was wondering, my car also has the 951 - Sport Package as well. Wanted to bring that up because Im not sure if that package or the 772 - AMG appearance package is what is causing the confusion about the brake sizes, my car has both those packages, and still no difference in sizes/dimensions from the pads and rotors on the w212's without those packages.
My luxury came with solid rotors and ceramic pads, my Sport came with drilled rotors and semi-metallic pads, I now have the Zimmerman solid rotors and Akebono ceramic pads on my Sport, it doesnt stop as well, but the difference is only slight, As I have both cars, I had to be careful in the past to remember which car I was driving as to stopping distance, now with the solid rotors and ceramic pads on my Sport, they are very close to the same.
I no longer have my 212, (2014, sport appearance package), but 100% agree with this statement. There were 3 notable design flaws with my 212.
First, the seat bottom was unbearable and almost made me get rid of it within a few weeks. Figured out that fix on my own (search NC211 Seat Pain, if interested in seeing how I fixed it. It went from the worst seat I ever experienced, to the absolute best).
Second, the AMG rims. They bent way too easily and struggled to get them back to perfect. Ended up replacing with knockoffs that looked like the 2012 sport rims and was happy thereafter.
Third, the sport brakes. They would not last 10k miles before the pulsing would begin from the fronts. They would groan as well. I replaced them exactly like above, and they were absolutely perfect thereafter. So much so, I am now looking to see if I can do the same with our 2020 GLS 450 as it approaches 90k miles on the original pads/rotors (obviously much better from MB on that car).
My luxury came with solid rotors and ceramic pads, my Sport came with drilled rotors and semi-metallic pads, I now have the Zimmerman solid rotors and Akebono ceramic pads on my Sport, it doesnt stop as well, but the difference is only slight, As I have both cars, I had to be careful in the past to remember which car I was driving as to stopping distance, now with the solid rotors and ceramic pads on my Sport, they are very close to the same.
For me, that difference would have me put the higher performing brakes on both cars....
My Sport model has 18-inch wheels, and the non-Sport models have 17-inch wheels. I don't think my rotors would fit on a car with 17" wheels.
My "17 inch on my Luxury are the 8 spokes, my 18" on my sport are the AMG wheels as I have all the AMG wanna be packages on that car, the wheels are interchangeable, I have 5 wheels for each car so I always have a straightened one ready to go as a spare
For me, that difference would have me put the higher performing brakes on both cars....
I understand that, but it's a lot of dust I no longer have to clean, when I drive the Sport from CLE to Tucson and back my wheels would get absolutely black, with the ceramics and solid rotors, no warping or dust, but yes, strictly from a performance standpoint the Semi-metallics stopped better, noticeably
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