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14 E350 coolant In transmission 2nd time this happened only 77k
Hello all, this is the 2nd time this happened to my garage kept Polar White E 350 sedan. It happened the first time under warranty 49k miles. MB dealer replaced transmission, and all coolant components. At 60k miles I noticed harsh upshifting and downshifting, typical 722.9 problems. I brought it to dealer and they said the transmission was defective and so they replaced the unit again. Now, I’m at 77k miles (this is not my daily driver so the miles stay low) and discovered sludge in the coolant reservoir while I was drying the engine compartment after a nice hand wash. I had no shifting issues at all. I towed the car to the dealer just to be safe. They confirmed it was trans fluid and said consider using an independent shop to put in a used transmission because the job would be $20k to do at the dealer. So this would need a third transmission and only at 77k miles. I spoke with a trusted independent euro shop and told them what was going on. I towed the car to them, they replaced all coolant components and suggested an aftermarket radiator so this does not happen again. Also a trans flush. The tech drops the pan on the trans and noticed only just a little bit of coolant in the trans fluid and said it is very minimal that a flush is not necessary and only a trans service is only needed. All got done, $3800 later I drive car from shop and got on highway and now I’m noticing shuddering between shifting higher gears, it’s almost like a vibration. I let it sit overnight and drove it this morning and did not feel the shudder until 15 min after driving. Now I’m in the situation of what should I do. Replace the trans? Replace the TC? Clean or replace VB and conductor plate? The shudder is not too bad and it did not do it prior to replacing fluid and filter. I do not want to just keep dumping money into it. I’m taking the car back Monday morning to check for codes with the shop. I would hate to put in a used transmission and find out it to be faulty. Any suggestions or advice would help me tremendously. Thank you for reading this.
When you say the dealer replaced "all coolant components" what exactly did they replace? Did they specify on the work order how the coolant mixed with ATF?
When you say the dealer replaced "all coolant components" what exactly did they replace? Did they specify on the work order how the coolant mixed with ATF?
They had replaced the radiator which was the culprit to the problem, all rubber hoses, thermostat, water pump, coolant reservoir, and a really good coolant flush.
What fluid are you using? OEM MB stuff? Does your reservoir have any intermix in it? You'll notice a film. The coolant is blue, the ATF is blue, the only way you can tell is if there is an oily film as ATF is derived from crude oil, even if its "synthetic".
The cars can completely cook off an entire fill of ATF within 30k miles and render it smelly and black if you're hard on the car or run it for extended hours. I have learned not to trust dealer recommendations and more how the car is used when it comes to ATF.
If you JUST got a transmission service, I don't know how good the shop is when you say its trusted, but can you verify what exact fluid they used on it? 2014 uses A89 transmission with special blue ATF which is low viscosity which is more fuel efficient. It has the disadvantage of aging like milk and cooking off prematurely for my taste. There is a possible simple problem where they used the red ATF and you would have sluggish, yet functional transmission. The point of ATF is to pressurize the clutch plates and lubricate the pump/gears/etc. When you get that famous 722.9 shuddering, it's actually the transmission not having enough pressure to pack the clutches together so you get some chatter and pulsation.
It's simple to mix these up if you don't know Mercedes very well.
I'm saying the next thing assuming I'm VERY WRONG. I want to actually be wrong about the next thing I'm saying as I'm still new when it comes to Mercedes service relatively speaking. I don't think your first one was bad so much as they didn't want to do a transmission service on your car. The sludge is quite normal at 80k, and I'd say you should replace the trans fluids on these every 40k. Mercedes even backpedalled their original 80k interval down to 60 or 40 I forgot the actual number. Now I wasn't there, I didn't see what they were looking at, but I'm all too familiar with dealer tactics as I used to be at a local VW dealership who would do the exact same thing to sell things like steering racks, transmissions, and engines under false pretenses and I've been told "this is the dealer life bro". My radiator which isn't too different from yours is the original one at 143k, I have a G550 with around 110k as well original radiator and both cars have been flogged around town and run on 100F days doing ubereats for fun with friends to pay for gas. Their transmissions need servicing almost every 20-30k or else they develop that exact same shudder were talking about. I service quite a few MB's who've received a "needs transmission" diagnosis only for like 5 liters of fresh ATF FE to solve the problem for a couple years. I have a Denso manufactured radiator and Graf water pump waiting for either car when the radiator end tanks start to let go, but surprisingly the thermostats let go first due to electrical shorts.
Intermix is possible and it has absolutely happened before. I've seen it on ancient 20-year old C230/E320 who have been running the original radiators to this day.
This is my E550's transmission fluid after 20k miles in a year. No metal in the pan, the fluid was burnt, didn't have a ton of suspended material. Also I swear the pans are slightly porous as they age, I replaced the pan and it stopped collecting moisture at the bottom. I have receipts and pictures of when I did the job last which is hilarious since it was like a year until I experienced the issues again
April of 2021, 119k, Vaico's kit with bolts, gasket, 6L of ATF134 FE which is more than enough
December 2022, 141k, went for Vaico's filter kit with bolts for the A89 transmission, filter was clean, fluid was burnt and smelled that way, not a lot of suspended clutch material, magnets were clean, pan didn't have excessive sludge. This time Amsoil Signature FE as an experiment. This fluid is not approved by MB, I would not recommend anybody use this for liability reasons, but Amsoil does say it is compatible with MB 236.15 and my cars are working way better than they ever have. The G550's transmission works a lot harder, was looking about the same that day.
Before resorting to transmission #3, you really should just make sure all the proper homework was done, and go for a trans service again.
M276 3.5L uses combo radiator and tranny oil cooler, which unless one is living in super cold country, its kinda sad to see the cooling liquid itself for tranny oil is
a hot one, albeit by logic the section for tranny cooler pipes would be at the bottom side of the radiator or the already cooled section AFTER or OUTPUT, but don't expect it to be NOT HOT.
Below is from M276 3.0 TT, radiator input and output when thermostat fully open and engine REAL* coolant temp is at 99C and 100C. *MB instrument cluster coolant temp loves to under report by 5 to 10C cooler...ON PURPOSE. https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...inda-liar.html
Full test story is here : https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...mperature.html
NOTE : Value of maximum cooling by the radiator is dictated a great deal too by the speed of the fan, thermostat fully opening itself is not enough. Test car is stationary.
How the hell tranny oil can get its stable 80C temp if the coolant itself is at 72C to 83C ?
M276 3.0TT and M278 too is luckier, we get stand alone air cooled tranny cooler with built in thermostat. M276 M002means M276 3.0 Turbo
I think if OP wants to keep the car for a long time after the repair, considering the option to install a stand alone air cooled tranny oil cooler can make good sense.
What fluid are you using? OEM MB stuff? Does your reservoir have any intermix in it? You'll notice a film. The coolant is blue, the ATF is blue, the only way you can tell is if there is an oily film as ATF is derived from crude oil, even if its "synthetic".
The cars can completely cook off an entire fill of ATF within 30k miles and render it smelly and black if you're hard on the car or run it for extended hours. I have learned not to trust dealer recommendations and more how the car is used when it comes to ATF.
If you JUST got a transmission service, I don't know how good the shop is when you say its trusted, but can you verify what exact fluid they used on it? 2014 uses A89 transmission with special blue ATF which is low viscosity which is more fuel efficient. It has the disadvantage of aging like milk and cooking off prematurely for my taste. There is a possible simple problem where they used the red ATF and you would have sluggish, yet functional transmission. The point of ATF is to pressurize the clutch plates and lubricate the pump/gears/etc. When you get that famous 722.9 shuddering, it's actually the transmission not having enough pressure to pack the clutches together so you get some chatter and pulsation.
It's simple to mix these up if you don't know Mercedes very well.
I'm saying the next thing assuming I'm VERY WRONG. I want to actually be wrong about the next thing I'm saying as I'm still new when it comes to Mercedes service relatively speaking. I don't think your first one was bad so much as they didn't want to do a transmission service on your car. The sludge is quite normal at 80k, and I'd say you should replace the trans fluids on these every 40k. Mercedes even backpedalled their original 80k interval down to 60 or 40 I forgot the actual number. Now I wasn't there, I didn't see what they were looking at, but I'm all too familiar with dealer tactics as I used to be at a local VW dealership who would do the exact same thing to sell things like steering racks, transmissions, and engines under false pretenses and I've been told "this is the dealer life bro". My radiator which isn't too different from yours is the original one at 143k, I have a G550 with around 110k as well original radiator and both cars have been flogged around town and run on 100F days doing ubereats for fun with friends to pay for gas. Their transmissions need servicing almost every 20-30k or else they develop that exact same shudder were talking about. I service quite a few MB's who've received a "needs transmission" diagnosis only for like 5 liters of fresh ATF FE to solve the problem for a couple years. I have a Denso manufactured radiator and Graf water pump waiting for either car when the radiator end tanks start to let go, but surprisingly the thermostats let go first due to electrical shorts.
Intermix is possible and it has absolutely happened before. I've seen it on ancient 20-year old C230/E320 who have been running the original radiators to this day.
This is my E550's transmission fluid after 20k miles in a year. No metal in the pan, the fluid was burnt, didn't have a ton of suspended material. Also I swear the pans are slightly porous as they age, I replaced the pan and it stopped collecting moisture at the bottom. I have receipts and pictures of when I did the job last which is hilarious since it was like a year until I experienced the issues again
April of 2021, 119k, Vaico's kit with bolts, gasket, 6L of ATF134 FE which is more than enough
December 2022, 141k, went for Vaico's filter kit with bolts for the A89 transmission, filter was clean, fluid was burnt and smelled that way, not a lot of suspended clutch material, magnets were clean, pan didn't have excessive sludge. This time Amsoil Signature FE as an experiment. This fluid is not approved by MB, I would not recommend anybody use this for liability reasons, but Amsoil does say it is compatible with MB 236.15 and my cars are working way better than they ever have. The G550's transmission works a lot harder, was looking about the same that day.
Before resorting to transmission #3, you really should just make sure all the proper homework was done, and go for a trans service again.
Thank you for your input sir.
The shop used the Pentosin blue ATF fluid not the OEM MB fluid.
There was definitely a sludge mix of the trans fluid and coolant in the reservoir. The oily smell of trans fluid was very noticeable when I opened the cap.
I am very sure the dealer replaced the transmission, the first time. They mentioned to me that they did not want any future issues so the protocol was to replace everything. The paper work had all of the parts listed including a reman transmission.
The independent repair shop only replaced the fluid that was in the pan, including the filter and gasket.
Do you recommend the Pentosin fluid?
Same issue with my 13 E350 bought two years ago - perfect car, 80k miles, all services done. After driving it less than 100 miles, coolant overheating.
First MB indy mechanic, flushed replaced coolant lines, and trany filters and fluid, same thing happen less than 200 miles later.
Trany was removed, rebuilt. Now all is well.
Culprit was the trany oil cooler in the radiator. Its seals failed allowing high pressure engine coolant into the trany, ruining the clutch faces.
Here is the photo of the problem. Note the red dye where the seals failed. red dye at the end show failure.
Thank you for your input sir.
The shop used the Pentosin blue ATF fluid not the OEM MB fluid.
There was definitely a sludge mix of the trans fluid and coolant in the reservoir. The oily smell of trans fluid was very noticeable when I opened the cap.
I am very sure the dealer replaced the transmission, the first time. They mentioned to me that they did not want any future issues so the protocol was to replace everything. The paper work had all of the parts listed including a reman transmission.
The independent repair shop only replaced the fluid that was in the pan, including the filter and gasket.
Do you recommend the Pentosin fluid?
yes, Pentosin/Fuchs/Ravenol/FebiBilstein/Vaico all are 236.15 fluid and I've used them all in various stages of their pricing and availability.
Sorry I wish I could help more. I had no idea this was possible on younger cars.
I am no expert, not had problems with the tranny (yet)..
I understand the typical drain and fill tranny procedure still leaves oil in the torque converter. Was the torque converter drained separately? I understand the drain/fill procedure leaving old fluid in the torque converter is used on the assumption of dilution, and servicing more often will save the step of draining the torque converter.
I am no expert, not had problems with the tranny (yet)..
I understand the typical drain and fill tranny procedure still leaves oil in the torque converter. Was the torque converter drained separately? I understand the drain/fill procedure leaving old fluid in the torque converter is used on the assumption of dilution, and servicing more often will save the step of draining the torque converter.
Perhaps another drain/fill oil transmission service will help, or a thorough drain (everything as much as possible),
I hope this does not happen to you. You really have to keep an eye on the coolant and constantly smell it for trans fluid or just get rid of the Valeo radiator from Mercedes.
The torque converter was not drained, only what was in the pan and filter.
The video was really helpful and the drilling process to get the drain plug seems like it might do the trick of getting most of the fluid out. I hope the shop is willing to drill the hole. From what he said there was not much coolant in the trans. It did not look like a milk shake.
Interesting fact. The shuttering starts occurring only after driven for 20 minutes on a cold start. If only driven for 5-10 minutes on a cold start you will never know there is a problem.
Same issue with my 13 E350 bought two years ago - perfect car, 80k miles, all services done. After driving it less than 100 miles, coolant overheating.
First MB indy mechanic, flushed replaced coolant lines, and trany filters and fluid, same thing happen less than 200 miles later.
Trany was removed, rebuilt. Now all is well.
Culprit was the trany oil cooler in the radiator. Its seals failed allowing high pressure engine coolant into the trany, ruining the clutch faces.
Here is the photo of the problem. Note the red dye where the seals failed. red dye at the end show failure.
Sorry that you had to go through that process.
question- Did your trans fluid look like a milk shake or was it just slight bit of coolant in the transmission?
I am no expert, not had problems with the tranny (yet)..
I understand the typical drain and fill tranny procedure still leaves oil in the torque converter. Was the torque converter drained separately? I understand the drain/fill procedure leaving old fluid in the torque converter is used on the assumption of dilution, and servicing more often will save the step of draining the torque converter.
Perhaps another drain/fill oil transmission service will help, or a thorough drain (everything as much as possible),
Yeah you drain about 4.5-5 out of 7L or so of ATF depending on what car you have. Most people do not drain the TC even though most kits have a brand new TC plug. It involves rotating the engine by hand til the plug lines up with some inspection hole. I've never done it, the dealer doesn't do it, but yes I agree it is the recommended way. My nightmare is I drop the plug inside the bell housing, although youre supposed to just superglue/wax your fasteners. The new ATF 134FE just doesn't last as long I reckon, but this isn't about that. This looks like a case of defective Valeo radiators. Thank goodness I replace all my customer cars with Denso or CSF. In the past some Valeo wipers (absolutely awful), filters, and alternators disappointed me so I avoided that brand. I think the ones in my cars are Mahle-Behr.
I'm really sorry you're going through this I wish I could help
Yeah you drain about 4.5-5 out of 7L or so of ATF depending on what car you have. Most people do not drain the TC even though most kits have a brand new TC plug. It involves rotating the engine by hand til the plug lines up with some inspection hole. I've never done it, the dealer doesn't do it, but yes I agree it is the recommended way. My nightmare is I drop the plug inside the bell housing, although youre supposed to just superglue/wax your fasteners. The new ATF 134FE just doesn't last as long I reckon, but this isn't about that. This looks like a case of defective Valeo radiators. Thank goodness I replace all my customer cars with Denso or CSF. In the past some Valeo wipers (absolutely awful), filters, and alternators disappointed me so I avoided that brand. I think the ones in my cars are Mahle-Behr.
I'm really sorry you're going through this I wish I could help
So today I went to the independent repair shop to discuss what is occurring. He scanned the computer and came up with no codes. He suggested driving the car more and more and that will eliminate the shuddering. I’ve also have been noticing it is getting lesser and lesser. He suggested to do a trans service in about 1 month to get rid of all of the potential contamination. Also to drain and flush out the coolant one more time.
Oh okay. Mine was not milky but just had a slight cloud in the fluid. The first time it had mixed, it was like a milkshake. That’s when MB dealer changed the trans, and all coolant components under warranty.
Good question. The coolant looked normal. I had the work done, so did see the trany fluild color. Didn' think to ask them.
I can imagine it would have been a milk shake.
Hello all, this is the 2nd time this happened to my garage kept Polar White E 350 sedan. It happened the first time under warranty 49k miles. MB dealer replaced transmission, and all coolant components. At 60k miles I noticed harsh upshifting and downshifting, typical 722.9 problems. I brought it to dealer and they said the transmission was defective and so they replaced the unit again. Now, I’m at 77k miles (this is not my daily driver so the miles stay low) and discovered sludge in the coolant reservoir while I was drying the engine compartment after a nice hand wash. I had no shifting issues at all. I towed the car to the dealer just to be safe. They confirmed it was trans fluid and said consider using an independent shop to put in a used transmission because the job would be $20k to do at the dealer. So this would need a third transmission and only at 77k miles. I spoke with a trusted independent euro shop and told them what was going on. I towed the car to them, they replaced all coolant components and suggested an aftermarket radiator so this does not happen again. Also a trans flush. The tech drops the pan on the trans and noticed only just a little bit of coolant in the trans fluid and said it is very minimal that a flush is not necessary and only a trans service is only needed. All got done, $3800 later I drive car from shop and got on highway and now I’m noticing shuddering between shifting higher gears, it’s almost like a vibration. I let it sit overnight and drove it this morning and did not feel the shudder until 15 min after driving. Now I’m in the situation of what should I do. Replace the trans? Replace the TC? Clean or replace VB and conductor plate? The shudder is not too bad and it did not do it prior to replacing fluid and filter. I do not want to just keep dumping money into it. I’m taking the car back Monday morning to check for codes with the shop. I would hate to put in a used transmission and find out it to be faulty. Any suggestions or advice would help me tremendously. Thank you for reading this.
What did you wind up doing? Just curious as I have a similar situation. 2013 ML350 the transmission started having issues at 67K miles. Took it to my Indy MB mechanic and the suggested a rebuild, which was done by another specialty MB only transmission shop. Cost was $6,000. About 3,500 miles later — same problem (like you, I don’t drive this car a lot - about 4,500 miles/year). They rebuilt it again, but couldn’t really determine why it failed again. Now at 75,000 miles and 20 months from the first rebuild I’m having the same issue again. So I took it in and they are going to rebuild again - I still have 4 months left on the warranty from the original rebuild and I’m going to ask them to extend it. It’s maddening because I could drive this car for the next 15 years and it would still have only about 150K miles on it — but now I’m not confident that it won’t be a money pit. My last two cars (Mitsubishi Montero LTD and Acura Legend) both made it to 200K miles+ before they needed any transmission work. 67K seem ridiculous for a MB. I may have to switch back to Asian cars (Lexus or Genesis).
What did you wind up doing? Just curious as I have a similar situation. 2013 ML350 the transmission started having issues at 67K miles. Took it to my Indy MB mechanic and the suggested a rebuild, which was done by another specialty MB only transmission shop. Cost was $6,000. About 3,500 miles later — same problem (like you, I don’t drive this car a lot - about 4,500 miles/year). They rebuilt it again, but couldn’t really determine why it failed again. Now at 75,000 miles and 20 months from the first rebuild I’m having the same issue again. So I took it in and they are going to rebuild again - I still have 4 months left on the warranty from the original rebuild and I’m going to ask them to extend it. It’s maddening because I could drive this car for the next 15 years and it would still have only about 150K miles on it — but now I’m not confident that it won’t be a money pit. My last two cars (Mitsubishi Montero LTD and Acura Legend) both made it to 200K miles+ before they needed any transmission work. 67K seem ridiculous for a MB. I may have to switch back to Asian cars (Lexus or Genesis).
Did you just have some mystery problem with the tranny requiring a rebuild, or did you have coolant in the transmission like the OP?
If you have coolant in the transmission, it is not the transission's fault. There is a leak in the transmission cooling circuit that flows within 1mm of coolant in the same unit. I think MB stopped doing this mid-cycle for W212s. Pretty sure my 2014 has a separate tranny cooler so this shouldn't be a problem for me.
Obviously, if people keep rebuilding the transmission, but don't fix the crossover between coolant and transmission fluid elsewhere in the system, transmissions will keep tanking. They aren't designed to circulate water.
Did you just have some mystery problem with the tranny requiring a rebuild, or did you have coolant in the transmission like the OP?
If you have coolant in the transmission, it is not the transission's fault. There is a leak in the transmission cooling circuit that flows within 1mm of coolant in the same unit. I think MB stopped doing this mid-cycle for W212s. Pretty sure my 2014 has a separate tranny cooler so this shouldn't be a problem for me.
Obviously, if people keep rebuilding the transmission, but don't fix the crossover between coolant and transmission fluid elsewhere in the system, transmissions will keep tanking. They aren't designed to circulate water.
Thanks for the response - I may have mis-spoke. Originally they did find a milky texture/appearance in the transmission fluid -- prior to the rebuild. I'm now doubting that they rebuilt it after the first rebuild. After discussions with the mechanic, it sounds as if, on the subsequent trips to the transmission shop, that they were trying to adjust the shifting adaptations via software. But after driving for a few months, the adaptations would get out of range and the problem would re-occur. It's back in the shop for a 4th time (in 11K miles) and apparently they are (again) finding the transmission fluid to be milky white (as it was the first time around -- but they found no leaks). The transmission mechanic apparently purchased test kits for water (negative) and also for coolant (also negative) so they apparently just sent a sample out to a test lab to determine what fluid is in the transmission fluid (seems like it has to be one of those two -- likely the local test kits weren't sophisticated enough to determine) to see if they can figure out the situation. They don't believe that there is any leaking between the radiator / transmission oil cooler - and they seem to be separate but conjoined, if that makes sense - but the more that I read about it, that seems to be the likely culprit.
If the transmission cooler lines are disconnected from the radiator, any internal coolant leak from the radiator passages towards the "transmission side" should show up.
While those lines are disconnected, I imagine that pressurizing the coolant circuit should not hold pressure for long, and coolant should show up on the transmission side connections. Just an idea.
Has the cooling system been pressure tested? Will it hold pressure? If not, where does the fluid come out? It will either be visibly dripping from the bottom of the car, going into your transmission, or into the crankcase. Possibly a combination.
If you have a clean transmission with only transmission fluid inside of it and you do not have a leak between your engine cooling and transmission cooling systems, the fluid will never become milky. If they did not fix the source of the contamination when this was first discovered, it will keep coming back regardless of how many times the transmission is rebuilt.
I don't know what kind of test kits they are using, but the transmission fluid is very deeply colored and it's cloudy. The test kits might be designed to detect mostly pure water/coolant. You might have only 3% water in your transmission fluid turning it into a milkshake. I don't know if they work like that unless they're designed for this situation.
Hey to anybody in this thread or in the future. If you want to replace your radiator, the ones that I know have worked and fit flawlessly are the DENSO radiators from Rockauto. Super high quality and they *felt* better than the outgoing ones. CSF is good too, but I ALWAYS go out fo my way to order the Denso units for Mercedes. It seems backwards to use a Japanese part in a German car but I'm absolutely not wrong on this. I've seen new Valeos fail at 60k.
ALSO if you have not done a radiator on one of these cars, it has transmission lines that go in. If you do not respect this you end up with all your ATF on the floor... so youll have to re-fill the trans afterwards. This is also just a great chance to do a trans service of which I have done like 50 of.
Don't put this off, if your end-tanks are already kind of leaking, you're only a specific kind of radiator failure away from destroying your transmission. The coolant's glycol soaks in the friction discs and debonds the glue which is an irreparable situation in the worst case scenario.
Thanks for the response - I may have mis-spoke. Originally they did find a milky texture/appearance in the transmission fluid -- prior to the rebuild. I'm now doubting that they rebuilt it after the first rebuild. After discussions with the mechanic, it sounds as if, on the subsequent trips to the transmission shop, that they were trying to adjust the shifting adaptations via software. But after driving for a few months, the adaptations would get out of range and the problem would re-occur. It's back in the shop for a 4th time (in 11K miles) and apparently they are (again) finding the transmission fluid to be milky white (as it was the first time around -- but they found no leaks). The transmission mechanic apparently purchased test kits for water (negative) and also for coolant (also negative) so they apparently just sent a sample out to a test lab to determine what fluid is in the transmission fluid (seems like it has to be one of those two -- likely the local test kits weren't sophisticated enough to determine) to see if they can figure out the situation. They don't believe that there is any leaking between the radiator / transmission oil cooler - and they seem to be separate but conjoined, if that makes sense - but the more that I read about it, that seems to be the likely culprit.
The lab came back with water in the transmission fluid -- either through a faulty vent in the top of the transmission (AC condensation?) or condensation in the transmission as it only gets driven 4K-5K miles/year and the fluid doesn't get hot enough to cook-off/evap any water. Fluid is green.
Last edited by T2IV; May 2, 2025 at 12:32 AM.
Reason: Add Photo
Has the cooling system been pressure tested? Will it hold pressure? If not, where does the fluid come out? It will either be visibly dripping from the bottom of the car, going into your transmission, or into the crankcase. Possibly a combination.
If you have a clean transmission with only transmission fluid inside of it and you do not have a leak between your engine cooling and transmission cooling systems, the fluid will never become milky. If they did not fix the source of the contamination when this was first discovered, it will keep coming back regardless of how many times the transmission is rebuilt..
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