What are we thinking guys? Am I covered? Jokes apart, MB will order the part on Monday from MB corporate and hopefully it isn’t on backorder - will be replaced free of cost. My dealer has a free inspection so I did not pay for them to take a look at it, although this was an hour drive away. The dealer closest to me wanted to charge $215 diagnostic fees and they had no appointment slots for 2 weeks. However if the part is covered, you get the $215 fee back.
My understanding is that the inspection is free, whether a problem exists or not.
UPDATE: Received the car back from MB, subframe was replaced and alignment was done - 9 days in total, I was given a loaner. Night and day difference, she drives so much better at higher speeds and cornering has improved significantly (no swaying). I paid a total of $0, everything under warranty and I’m really happy. I was given the receipts of the things replaced.
I had the subframe replaced by my local dealer last year under the warranty and they came back with that the rear brake lines above the subframe had corrosion (not compromised yet) and tried to up sell the brake lines to the rear. I declined the brake line replacement which if I remember correctly was in the 2k dollar range. I would definitely bring it to another dealer and have them inspect and come back with if additional repairs are needed. The warranty only covers the subframe and related parts to reinstall...does not cover any other compromised systems...brake lines...etc.
Mine is at the dealer for this now and I got quoted $2376 for the rear brake lines after the deduction for the labor covered by replacing the subframe.
I definitely think it should also be covered by MB, using enameled steel instead of cupronickel brake lines is just irresponsible. The replacements apparently are proper cupronickel.
Mine is at the dealer for this now and I got quoted $2376 for the rear brake lines after the deduction for the labor covered by replacing the subframe.
I definitely think it should also be covered by MB, using enameled steel instead of cupronickel brake lines is just irresponsible. The replacements apparently are proper cupronickel.
Yeah, MB is charging MB labor rates to do it. But it's not that complicated, it's basically all labor, the parts are relatively cheap. An indy mechanic should be able to do it for $500-$1000 or even less. Basically all labor and you need to find one with sub $100 labor rates instead of $200-$300+ at the dealer.
I had a severely rusted rear passenger brake line and the dealer gave me a quote for over $2k to replace. I had never worked on hard brake lines before and I replaced it myself and it came out good. I used nickel copper line and Mercedes fittings. I believe the Mercedes brake line is PVF-coated steel and when the coating is scratched the line rusts. Cost me around $50 for the parts and fluid and then I bought the correct ISO/DIN flare tool and a mini tube cutter. I spliced in the line and just replaced what was bad.
I called MB USA, gave them the VIN# of my E 350 4Matic, and they told me it was covered under the extended warranty. I was asked at what Benz dealer I'd like to have the work done at, I was connected to the dealer, make an appointment, and dropped my car off. Service advisor called 1 hour later, saying that both rear springs were "cracked" and needed to be replaced...no extra labor involved, since the subframe is getting replaced, but I'd need to cough up $500ish for new springs. They sent me a video walk-thru of their inspection process
Are they regular springs or air? My local MB dealer installs any parts i bring in so if you can find them cheaper, even at FCP euro for the lifetime warranty i would do that.
I called MB USA, gave them the VIN# of my E 350 4Matic, and they told me it was covered under the extended warranty. I was asked at what Benz dealer I'd like to have the work done at, I was connected to the dealer, make an appointment, and dropped my car off. Service advisor called 1 hour later, saying that both rear springs were "cracked" and needed to be replaced...no extra labor involved, since the subframe is getting replaced, but I'd need to cough up $500ish for new springs. They sent me a video walk-thru of their inspection process
It's a bit high for springs, about $250 each. I've bought front springs from the MB dealer before just because no one made aftermarket springs but they were only in the $150 range. I think your dealer really marked them up and they would probably not install aftermarket springs. But if you had time, you could just buy the right MB springs from any MB dealer at the lower price or negotiate on the price of the springs. Or just skip it if you want to save money, it's not that hard to do, you don't even need a spring compressor, you just drop the control arms and you can remove the springs by hand. The aftermarket springs were in the $100 range at FCPEuro.
Just checked my repair order from the dealer and the parts you mentioned above are not listed on the dealer receipt for my '11 S212. I would double check with your dealer for those aforementioned parts.
I would ask them to provide you with exactly what they will be doing to the car and list of all parts being replaced.
And if theres anything you want done now is the time to do it. Subrame bushings, control arm bushings, differential bushings, Control arms, sway bar, rear passenger brake line for example.
If my subframe were going to be replaced I would have all the bushings on it replaced including spring control arm bushings, differential bushings, and all the control arms replaced. Since the sunframe has to be lowered to do most of this work. I'd even have the sway bar replaced. I would buy all the parts and drop then off to have done though.
I would ask them to provide you with exactly what they will be doing to the car and list of all parts being replaced.
And if theres anything you want done now is the time to do it. Subrame bushings, control arm bushings, differential bushings, Control arms, sway bar, rear passenger brake line for example.
If my subframe were going to be replaced I would have all the bushings on it replaced including spring control arm bushings, differential bushings, and all the control arms replaced. Since the sunframe has to be lowered to do most of this work. I'd even have the sway bar replaced. I would buy all the parts and drop then off to have done though.
This would add considerable cost to the free subframe warranty work. When my S212 was in for the subframe, the dealer mentioned the rear brake lines had surface corrosion (no pinholes or leaks present) and wanted to replace the lines to the tune of $2300...I declined. I would think all those items you mentioned above would push it well north. As to owner supplied replacement parts, it would depend on whether the dealer is willing to charge only labor rate for the install bypassing their nice MB parts markup. Also if they are willing to do the labor only, any failure with these owner supplied parts as opposed to a normal dealer part install/labor would fall on the consumer during the repair warranty period.
In the photos above where someone had the subframe replaced under warranty it looks like all the bolts and bushings are new. Thinking about it all the bolts should be replaced with new at least, im even guessing the bushings should be new also. I cant see pressing the old bushings out to install in a new frame being legit. And in my MB manual is says to replace all the bolts when performing the work.
I can see them not including new control arms. I would have that done. Along with the sway bar which isnt that expensive. And the stop plates since they are around $10/each.
This would add considerable cost to the free subframe warranty work. When my S212 was in for the subframe, the dealer mentioned the rear brake lines had surface corrosion (no pinholes or leaks present) and wanted to replace the lines to the tune of $2300...I declined. I would think all those items you mentioned above would push it well north. As to owner supplied replacement parts, it would depend on whether the dealer is willing to charge only labor rate for the install bypassing their nice MB parts markup. Also if they are willing to do the labor only, any failure with these owner supplied parts as opposed to a normal dealer part install/labor would fall on the consumer during the repair warranty period.
Well they will have to press out all the bushings and press them into the new frame. So I cant see just pressing in new bushings being any additional cost, it will be less work for them.
I can see them charging labor for replacing the control arms since they will have to disconnect them all from the wheel carrier then connect the new control arms. But again the labor to disconnect them from the old subframe and connect them to the new frame is included in the work already.
Then the sway bar, they just have to install the new one to the new frame. They wont have to remove it from the old subframe, so less labor time for them.
I was recently pricing new sway bars for my W204 which are similar to the W212 so I know they arent expensive. For that part # its $109 at my local MB dealer. From my personal experience I would go with Genuine MB whenever possible.
Alot of the time things like bolts and fasteners are less expensive at the local MB parts dept than places like FCP.
I picked up a set of stop plates at the dealer for around $12/each. There should be two, a left and a right at the front bushings.
I spliced in the line and just replaced what was bad.
You could do this, but the dealer would definitely not do this for liability reasons. I'm not sure what an independent might do.
Not disparaging your work, I'd probably do this myself.
Not to rack up the bill even more but on my W204 I would love to swap out the bushings on the wheel carriers from how they look. But these can be done any time without much work. Seems to be the same part #'s with the W212.
You could do this, but the dealer would definitely not do this for liability reasons. I'm not sure what an independent might do.
Not disparaging your work, I'd probably do this myself.
I got the idea and info right from the diagrams. It shows a "Hexagon Spacer" installed somewhere in the middle of the rear hard lines. So i bought Genuine Mercedes spacers and the fittings. I spliced in at the drivers rear wheel well. i gave a lot of thought and research and saw no reason why this could not or should not be done. Same fittings that are used to connect the hard lines to the flex lines. Saved me alot of money, time, and aggravation.
I wouldnt doubt that Mercedes would only replace the entire line, for whatever there reasoning. When mine was in for some work they gave me an estimate for over $4k to replace the rear passenger line. Which is why it put a fire under my *** to get it done after seeing the video inspection they sent me of it. The flare tool was the most expensive cost, 12' of nickel copper tubing was $7, the hex spacers were $5/each and the nuts were $6/each. I wanted to save money so I bought non Mercedes fittings and they were junk, the machining was horrible i just threw them away. I def recommend using the Mercedes fittings.
Heres the hard line diagram for the W212. Can see the hexagon spacers im talking about.
Heres the old brake line. I got really lucky i caught it before it really blew out. This is at a connection point where it clips up into the car so I think by removing it the rust broke off and made it start seeping.
Hi, does this apply to C300 2010? Also, I did not receive any extended letter from MB. Is there a website I can go to to retrieve it?
Thanks.
C class coupe and sedan (2008-2015) is covered according to the MB site that has the subframe warranty info. Google Mercedes subframe warranty and you'll see the links.
