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Old Mar 16, 2023 | 09:38 PM
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2012 E350 4Matic
Planetary Gear Set

I've been having an intermittent issue with a vibration being felt through the steering wheel when making sharp turns (full lock, or almost there) at slow speed and it was diagnosed as a faulty planetary gear set in the transfer case, with the front wheels turning at different speeds during a sharp turn the clutches slip excessively. The quote I received from a dealer is pretty significant due to the fact that the transmission pan is corroded and requires replacement to do a fluid change, and they want to replace the front section of the exhaust including the resonator because the flanges may not come apart (IF they don't come apart, is cutting it out and welding in new pipe not an option?). The exhaust and trans pan are almost $2000 of the quote, more than actually rebuilding the transfer case. I see I can pick up a good used trans pan from a southern car (no corrosion) for well under $100 shipped and there might be a possibility of salvaging the exhaust, so I'm going to get a second opinion from my independent guy.

How long am I ok to drive it in this condition while I decide what I want to do? The vibration isn't terrible, and it's only when making low speed turns, and starts going away the warmer it gets.
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Old Mar 16, 2023 | 10:37 PM
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Assume its the bearings, there is a thread here on rebuilding one. Dealers just replace the trans since its all integral so odd they would offer to rebuild that part. Definately get the independed to look at it. Probably stop driving it IMHO.
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Old Mar 16, 2023 | 11:19 PM
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They actually quoted replacing the gear set and clutch pack, and doing it in house. I actually had the transmission in my old GMC Sierra work truck completely rebuilt by the dealer under warranty, even though it probably should have been replaced as a complete unit (pump failed, 4th/5th/6th clutches destroyed due to loss of lubrication), so there are dealers out there doing transmission work but I'm sure not every one has the equipment or staff with the expertise in transmission work. I'm in Canada and parts prices are quite a bit higher than in the US, even after taking the exchange rate into account, so it may be more economical to repair vs replace in some cases.
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Old Mar 18, 2023 | 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Andre91
I've been having an intermittent issue with a vibration being felt through the steering wheel when making sharp turns (full lock, or almost there) at slow speed and it was diagnosed as a faulty planetary gear set in the transfer case, with the front wheels turning at different speeds during a sharp turn the clutches slip excessively. The quote I received from a dealer is pretty significant due to the fact that the transmission pan is corroded and requires replacement to do a fluid change, and they want to replace the front section of the exhaust including the resonator because the flanges may not come apart (IF they don't come apart, is cutting it out and welding in new pipe not an option?). The exhaust and trans pan are almost $2000 of the quote, more than actually rebuilding the transfer case. I see I can pick up a good used trans pan from a southern car (no corrosion) for well under $100 shipped and there might be a possibility of salvaging the exhaust, so I'm going to get a second opinion from my independent guy.

How long am I ok to drive it in this condition while I decide what I want to do? The vibration isn't terrible, and it's only when making low speed turns, and starts going away the warmer it gets.
Why do they say it is the planetary gear problem? Does your transmission / transfer care make whining noise?

Vibration can be caused by the locking disk "stick-slip" condition when you make sharp turns and the disk must let front and rear axles rotate different speeds.

The center differential lock in these cars to my understanding is a "simple" spring loaded clutch that will allow movement under certain torque conditions between the axles. Because there is always some "spring" present in these systems you can get this stick-slip condition in the locking disk that cause vibrations.

Years ago, in this forum, there were people telling how they fixed this issue by jacking one wheel up and running the car with gear ON for a little bit to "clean" the differential locking clutch disk. Some people claimed this also worked.

I would try something like this myself first before letting someone do fix that may have nothing to do with your problem. If you run one wheel up, you can also hear if you really have the planetary gear problem as only one wheel up and turning will make the planetary gears rotate and they usually make whining noise if the bearing failure is present with them.
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Old Mar 18, 2023 | 12:08 PM
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2012 E350 4Matic
Originally Posted by Arrie
Why do they say it is the planetary gear problem? Does your transmission / transfer care make whining noise?

Vibration can be caused by the locking disk "stick-slip" condition when you make sharp turns and the disk must let front and rear axles rotate different speeds.

The center differential lock in these cars to my understanding is a "simple" spring loaded clutch that will allow movement under certain torque conditions between the axles. Because there is always some "spring" present in these systems you can get this stick-slip condition in the locking disk that cause vibrations.

Years ago, in this forum, there were people telling how they fixed this issue by jacking one wheel up and running the car with gear ON for a little bit to "clean" the differential locking clutch disk. Some people claimed this also worked.

I would try something like this myself first before letting someone do fix that may have nothing to do with your problem. If you run one wheel up, you can also hear if you really have the planetary gear problem as only one wheel up and turning will make the planetary gears rotate and they usually make whining noise if the bearing failure is present with them.
It doesn't make any unusual noises at all, you can feel the vibration through the steering wheel and floor when turning at very low speed, but when it occurs there is no change in sound. Even on the coldest days this winter (-35c) I haven't even heard any pump whine, let alone the sound of a bearing going bad. Are the clutch discs part of the planetary gear set? They may be wanting to replace the entire assembly.

The best way to describe it is that it feels like making a turn in a truck with 4x4 engaged.

Last edited by Andre91; Mar 18, 2023 at 12:13 PM.
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Old Mar 18, 2023 | 03:21 PM
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See attachments.

https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...nsmission.html
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Old Mar 19, 2023 | 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Andre91
It doesn't make any unusual noises at all, you can feel the vibration through the steering wheel and floor when turning at very low speed, but when it occurs there is no change in sound. Even on the coldest days this winter (-35c) I haven't even heard any pump whine, let alone the sound of a bearing going bad. Are the clutch discs part of the planetary gear set? They may be wanting to replace the entire assembly.

The best way to describe it is that it feels like making a turn in a truck with 4x4 engaged.
"The best way to describe it is that it feels like making a turn in a truck with 4x4 engaged." - That is exactly what it would feel like if it is the locking disk "stick-slip" that is going on. You not hearing any grinding sounds also speaks for it.

You could go find a big empty parking lot where you can drive circles with different radius. This should not damage the car as it was designed to be driven with wheels turned in any road surface. This would be doing kind of the "wheels up" test in a legal way. If it is about the disk surface needing some "cleaning" you should see the condition get better. If not, then it may well be the problem with the planetary bearing.

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Old Jul 11, 2023 | 10:35 PM
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So, just wanted to provide an update on this issue. After a long highway drive the vibration went away and hasn't returned so far, 1500km later. After two hours or so at highway speed (cruise set to 120km/h) I stopped for a coffee and noticed when I was going around a tight drive thru the vibration was gone. When I got to my destination I again noticed it was gone as I was making tight turns going around a parking garage. When I left to go home, same thing, no vibration. It hasn't happened since.

I do very little highway driving, I occasionally go for a 45 minute-hour drive on a nice day, maybe once a month, but other than that all of my driving is in the city. Could it just be a case of needing to get the transfer case up to temp and give it enough time to clean any buildup off the clutches?
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Old Jul 12, 2023 | 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Andre91
So, just wanted to provide an update on this issue. After a long highway drive the vibration went away and hasn't returned so far, 1500km later. After two hours or so at highway speed (cruise set to 120km/h) I stopped for a coffee and noticed when I was going around a tight drive thru the vibration was gone. When I got to my destination I again noticed it was gone as I was making tight turns going around a parking garage. When I left to go home, same thing, no vibration. It hasn't happened since.

I do very little highway driving, I occasionally go for a 45 minute-hour drive on a nice day, maybe once a month, but other than that all of my driving is in the city. Could it just be a case of needing to get the transfer case up to temp and give it enough time to clean any buildup off the clutches?
Yes it could.

There are people recommending center differential clutch disc cleaning by jacking one wheel up and running the car on gear for 10 - 20 seconds. This procedure is not recommended by MB but that would be the first thing I would do if I had a 4Matic and it would start acting up like that.

If the problem is with the bearing that has been found to be an issue in many cars this procedure does not make any worse but if it is about clutch disk surface condition it can be a big help.
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Old May 30, 2025 | 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Arrie
Yes it could.

There are people recommending center differential clutch disc cleaning by jacking one wheel up and running the car on gear for 10 - 20 seconds. This procedure is not recommended by MB but that would be the first thing I would do if I had a 4Matic and it would start acting up like that.

If the problem is with the bearing that has been found to be an issue in many cars this procedure does not make any worse but if it is about clutch disk surface condition it can be a big help.
I'm having a similar issue with a 2016 E350 4matic that I bought last weekend. Getting a clicking sound in forward/reverse at low speed while turning, and also a clunking/creaking noise when stationary and just turning the steering wheel back and forth. My question is, how would one do this test you're describing? If you just jack up one wheel, leave the other three on the ground and put the car in gear, wouldn't it fly off the jack stands? I don't understand lol. And does anyone have a part # for the planetary gear? I have searched everywhere and cannot find one.

Last edited by thewheelm4n; May 30, 2025 at 12:03 PM.
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Old May 31, 2025 | 04:28 AM
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get on lift and check
front suspension & steering parts.
Check axle shafts and their CV joints.
bearings.
etc.
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Old May 31, 2025 | 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Andre91
So, just wanted to provide an update on this issue. After a long highway drive the vibration went away and hasn't returned so far, 1500km later. After two hours or so at highway speed (cruise set to 120km/h) I stopped for a coffee and noticed when I was going around a tight drive thru the vibration was gone. When I got to my destination I again noticed it was gone as I was making tight turns going around a parking garage. When I left to go home, same thing, no vibration. It hasn't happened since.

I do very little highway driving, I occasionally go for a 45 minute-hour drive on a nice day, maybe once a month, but other than that all of my driving is in the city. Could it just be a case of needing to get the transfer case up to temp and give it enough time to clean any buildup off the clutches?
Exactly what happened with my car. Did an hour long drive at 75-80 mph and it seemed to resolve the problem.
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Old May 31, 2025 | 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by thewheelm4n
I'm having a similar issue with a 2016 E350 4matic that I bought last weekend. Getting a clicking sound in forward/reverse at low speed while turning, and also a clunking/creaking noise when stationary and just turning the steering wheel back and forth. My question is, how would one do this test you're describing? If you just jack up one wheel, leave the other three on the ground and put the car in gear, wouldn't it fly off the jack stands? I don't understand lol. And does anyone have a part # for the planetary gear? I have searched everywhere and cannot find one.
Your problem is something else if it makes noises while stationary and turning the wheel.
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Old Jun 1, 2025 | 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Arrie
Your problem is something else if it makes noises while stationary and turning the wheel.
I'm thinking so too. Strut mount bearings binding, swaybar links going bad, ball joints going bad?
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Old Jun 1, 2025 | 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by thewheelm4n
I'm thinking so too. Strut mount bearings binding,
swaybar links going bad,
ball joints going bad?
Exactly!
You've got thst maintenance list figured out.

It may not be 100% what is acting up but ALL these suspension parts with restore new-driving caracteristics. They are all loose/soft!
No need to split-hair on which part's the worst one.

Add to your maintenance :
forward control arms and
sway bar bushings (or new SB).

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Old Jun 1, 2025 | 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by CaliBenzDriver
Exactly!
You've got thst maintenance list figured out.

It may not be 100% what is acting up but ALL these suspension parts with restore new-driving caracteristics. They are all loose/soft!
No need to split-hair on which part's the worst one.

Add to your maintenance :
forward control arms and
sway bar bushings (or new SB).

Part # for forward control arms?

And I'd just do the SB links, cheap enough and easier that way.
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Old Jun 1, 2025 | 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by thewheelm4n
Part # for forward control arms?

And I'd just do the SB links, cheap enough and easier that way.
fwd arm
fwd arm : soft bushing + BJ

I used the Lemförder product.


Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jun 1, 2025 at 06:46 PM.
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Old Jun 1, 2025 | 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by CaliBenzDriver
fwd arm
fwd arm
I used that
Ahh, Pic res isn't high enough for me to read the label
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Old Jun 1, 2025 | 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by thewheelm4n
Ahh, Pic res isn't high enough for me to read the label
In MB world the spare parts are best identified by VIN ie. my part# do not fit your car.

trim, year, options create different part mixes.

Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jun 1, 2025 at 06:47 PM.
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Old Jun 1, 2025 | 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by CaliBenzDriver
In MB world the spare parts are best identified by VIN ie. my part# do not fit your car.

trim, year, options create different part mixes.
Simple suspension parts like this aren't standardized across model ranges? I find that hard to believe.
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Old Jun 1, 2025 | 07:19 PM
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NOT SAYIN NO

Originally Posted by thewheelm4n
Simple suspension parts like this aren't standardized across model ranges? I find that hard to believe.
you're right... let me get home, Ill hand you my part number.


Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jun 1, 2025 at 07:36 PM.
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Old Jun 1, 2025 | 08:38 PM
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212 xxxx is that part number
212....
212....
👍
👍

Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jun 1, 2025 at 08:39 PM.
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Old Jun 2, 2025 | 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by thewheelm4n
Simple suspension parts like this aren't standardized across model ranges? I find that hard to believe.
Be careful, there are some differences between 4matic/RWD, sport/normal suspension, and some other package differences. Simple suspension parts are not 100% definitely the same across all trims/years...
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Old Jun 2, 2025 | 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by ChuangTzu
Be careful, there are some differences between 4matic/RWD, sport/normal suspension, and some other package differences. Simple suspension parts are not 100% definitely the same across all trims/years...
Right, for sure. That's why I've been trying to find a good parts catalog (seems like this is the best option I've seen so far: https://nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/e...cedes/1/212/); coming from the world of BMW and having realoem.com as that type of resource was invaluable.

For reference, my car has is a 4matic with the sport package, no air assist thankfully.
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Old Jun 2, 2025 | 09:44 AM
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You can buy a bootleg copy of the official parts program (EPC) from ebay... It's highly recommended.
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