Jb188

Hey guys! I need some help with the transmission i was out driving and it was shifting smooth and fine i manually shifter it so it would be running around 2,5k rpm since the dpf was a bit clogged and needed to be cleared. Then i came to the red lights, stopped and when it turned green it didnt want to go forward even though it was on D, tried R and it didnt lock in gear... so I had to roll it to the side of the street( we did it when it was in p actually) but then it locked in P and we couldnt roll it in P. But now it doesnt want to change gear only P and N, the obd computer shows right gear when moved but actuator stays in P or N. Tried to fill it up with more trans oil but no effekt.. what could it be? Could it be the conductor plate that needs to be changed? Or the shifting Rod? Been reading and looking around for information about this but not so much luck... thanks guys!

kajtek1

Confirm you have 5G or 5-speed transmission?
Common on those is leaky/contaminated pilot bushing. How old is yours?
Codes?

Jb188

yes exactly I have the 722.6 5g transmission, the pilot bushing was quite dry but I saw a little bit of oil on the side of it though.. should i change the conductor plate?
i have no fault codes on the tcm or anything related to the transmission atm..
The car is at 15k km

Thanks for the help!

kajtek1

It is only easy start to wash the plugs with good electronic cleaner and put new pilot bushing.
Also check if the fluid did not travel along the wires and flooded TCU.
But sounds like you will need better scanner to reset the codes.
Soft limp would reset with ignition cycling, when hard limp require top-end scanner to reset.

Jb188

Okey thanks, i will do that tommorow, and even check the fluid and fluid lever. I am currently just using icarsoft cr max, and the only fault codes are ABS codes thats why i thought maybe the conductor plate is faulty since I read something about that having a speed sensor that could be an issue?

kajtek1

Transmission has its own speed sensors, but you are not reading them?
Lot of things on digital cars are interlocked, so I would not rule out, that your ABS codes put your transmission into safe mode, even if unlikely.
So fix ABS before jumping on the transmission.

Jb188

no, since the transmission started to fault i havent been able to drive so I havent been able to read them or how do you mean? Okey will do! I will check the fault codes on the ABS today thank you for your support kajtek

Left Coast Geek

15000 km is practically a new car!

kajtek1

That doesn't apply to orings, who are probably over 10 years old.
Tires alike.

Left Coast Geek

true, in fact an E220 CDI 5G-tronic is 2009-2011, so 12-14 years old. That is in fact insanely low mileage for that age, did this car sit for a long time and only recently get driven? or has it been driven very lightly over its whole life?

Jb188

It has been sitting for like a year now, it has been owned by an elderly man that didnt drive it so often because its in very good condition and has been serviced when it was suppose to and so on. But still had these problems i dont know why though, but the engine is done and working fine had to replace 2 injectors because it had some missfires. Now the transmission problem is to be solved. The crazy thing is it went so smooth before, no hard shifting och slipping and then by the red light it came out of gear and now it doesnt want to lock in R or D. But locks in P. cant seem to find any other solution then opening it and releasing the valvbody since I had the same esp and abs fault codes before it failing too so it doesnt make sense..

Left Coast Geek

cars don't like being parked for a long time.

Jb188

Ye I know, but the engine is changed and fluid is refilled in both tranny and engine.. and it worked without any issues except dpf filter clogged before.. but ye its this last thing with the tranny then the easy stuff like clogged dpf, and left plate light issue.

kajtek1

What's you definition of "long" ?
My GLE sit for 7 months covered with snow and restarted on its own power. (I disconnected battery clamp).
I restarted diesel pusher who sit under the tree for 7 years and only needed new batteries and some tire air.
Then you have Vise Grip Garage channel on youtube, where the guy restarts the cars sitting even over 40 years and most of the time he can drive them home.
When I know diesel fuel can sit for long years (unless it gets algae), some of those cars would run on 10 yo gasoline. I guess it depends how the car was stored.

Left Coast Geek

those 40 year old cars don't have dozens of computers and tons of rubber and plastic under the hood. In this case we have a 12 or 15 year old car that has a total of 15000 km, 9300 miles, and we don't really know its history.

kajtek1

That's true.
His big failure come with 1970's Cadillac with 1st generation of Fuel Injection.
After spending several days trying to make the car drivable, he folded on bad computer.
Car sit only 12 years.
On my 1922 Ford T I don't even have water pump to fail

BenzV12

That makes sense that a car with a higher mileage maintained is better bit to buy than a car lower mileage neglected maintenance . However, we need to know the definition of the higher vs lower mileage as well
From my experience : My dad's Cadillac Fleetwood had waited for 10 months . One day we decided to drive it and bought new battery for the car . It cranked like as though it was new from the factory .No stupid things had happened .