Our 2014 E350 has had the release mechanism (pull handle etc) replaced twice under warranty over the years because pulling it didn't always disengage the brake. And now, well out of warranty of course, the handle is acting up yet again, to the point where you have to tug and wiggle sometimes to get it to disengage the parking brake. Is there a real fix for this or am I really this unlucky with this stupid release lever? And is this an easy DIY?

Edward

 

This video might help you. Seems like a common problem on our vehicles.

 

Yes, there are some videos showing how to lubricate things, I did mine over a year ago after having the same issue, I could pull up pedal with my foot, but annoying.

 

Mine also had this issue with the parking brake. As the OP, it was changed under warranty once, and it of course came back. It has been reported in other thread as well, and the common theme so far is temperature. It tends to stick around the colder months, and recover by the summer.

For some, it has been the helicoidal spring, but as you can see in the video it seems to be the grease has deteriorated and creating additional friction. Follow that video to the letter: lubricate the mechanism from the top, and lubricate the cable towards its jacket. Once done, you may regret it will now return too fast. MIne has been problem-free for 3 years after following similar steps.

Still, I rather have this style than the electric one.

 

Once you realize that dried grease turns into the opposite of a lubricant... GLUE then you know what's happening to :

• (parking brake pedal)
• brake caliper sliding pins
• HVAC flap actuators
• steering column convenience
• sunroof spring track
• trunk closer
• door latches
• ISM PRND shifter
• ....

These devices are built with the same principle lub/glue. They benefit from a hight temp silicone lubricant grease to minimize evaporation.

By contrast a more stable lasting grease is used in ball joints, CV-Joints, some of the ball bearings: engine fan

++++ COMBO : SOLDERLESS + GLUE !
Combine sticking parts to stress poor connections with high currents: meet the ISM shifter. A "NO START" provider when poor connection dont respond to "Drive Authorization".

(solderless + glue)

 

Outstanding info, all. Big thanks!

Edward

 

Is this from your car Cali ?

 

Side note: thank goodness the 212 is still a cable-operated p-brake! Motors for everything these days! Great, until they aren't!

Edward

 

Yes, you know me: I had to!


Surgery to make good computers better

Strangely enough, this made my electro-magnetic suspension work well to smooth out the road. It used to be bumpy and kick. Now the ride is what i dreamed of when I ordered this option.

I can say for sure solderless impacts bus timings, particularly the fast VIP CAN-C:
ECU + TCU + ESP + ISM + LPFP + SAM.

Solderless is to CAN modules what low oil pressure is to engine VVT... amazing straight from factory! 👏

Solderless design screws up CAN timings by flooding the network with retransmits. Hardware ppl describe this marginal operations as "I/O storms" - To be avoided like any storm.

SOLDERLESS degrades performance under the radar without any code:
It makes steering wander
It makes tranny bang
It makes suspensions bumpy
It makes engine hiccup
It makes keyless doors goofy
It wastes batteries with yoyo + drain



> Marginal connections are not compatible with reliable performance.

Next repair is my solderless ESP. I am curious to discover what unrelated function is going to improve after my ESP rework.

Most of this chaos is less than fun however the surprise to discover improvements after tweaks helps offset the hunt for good Easter Eggs. Getting my steering and suspension to perform without working on them was totally unexpected.

Since solderless is a carefully crafted technology, you can recognize it in other vehicles.

 

Wow Cali, your fingers are indeed SUPER ITCHY !!!!! Awesome awesome.
The working space so tight there at ISM. to car tranny tunnel.

 

THANK YOU ! The dealer here told me that I needed to replace the parking brake pedal assembly which was $300 parts and $400 labor.

I love the russian guys that make the videos - they know these cars like the back of their hand. I just wish they would steady their cameras ....

 

OP here with an update:

I replaced the handle in a snap and all is well ...big thanks for that tip! BUT, after a couple of weeks now, I noticed that the "release" of the parking brake comes at the very end of the handle's travel. At times, I've pulled the handle to its max and then have to wiggle the handle to get it to release the brake, ugh!. Cable stretch, right? Any way to tighten up the cable a few millimeters?

Edward

 

Perhaps. I think if the cable stretching, it would not give after wiggled it anyways.

More lubricant between cable and its jacket.

Mine has @65k miles, and I always use the parking brake. Old habits.

 

I sprayed quite a bit of lube down the cable housing ...I'll try again with more. Thanks!

Edward

 

How does the cable adjustment work to make up for wear?

The drum parking pads should hardly wear and be self adjusted... maybe something in there wants to see us ??

I am going to swap Akebono pads in couple month and have a look at the drum self-adjusters... the light factory grease may have evaporated and turned itself into prefect glue.

 

Edward,

I can show you at the parking brake side internal drum brake, how the PULL CABLE may stretch.
I have lots of photo on it.


When the parking brake is not depressed at all, the PUSH CABLE pops out this much at the rear inner drum brake.




.



.
ADD




Geez, every year I visited my parking brake shoe & mechanism ....LOL

 

Thanks for the pics and effort, but it's not the pull cable, it's the release cable that is the issue. I pull the handle and maybe 1 out of 8 times the handle is at max pull and the brake isn't fully released. Wait, as I type this it just dawned on me, could it be the sensor that turns off the dash light that needs adjusting? Hmmm, I gotta think about that the next time it hangs up and see if the brake actually did release fully, and it's just whatever switch that isn't turning off the dash light. Where is this sucker and is it threaded/adjustable at all ...anyone?

Sorry if this is nebulous as I am thinking on the fly here and this just dawned on me. It's an intermittent problem so it's not like I can reproduce the malady. Thoughts welcome on the switch?

Edward

 

Lubing up the cable helped a lot on my 2014 C350. I used to have to pull the release and move the brake pedal with my foot at the same time. Now, it just pops back when I pull the release.

 

So you are a 100% sure that mechanically you are seeing that the PUSH PEDAL did not go back to zero position......
or..... you rely on the warning light to confirm that PUSH PEDAL did not go zero/relase-ded position ?

The switch can come off a few millimeters out of its seating and create a bogus BRAKE LIGHT activation when actually the PUSH PEDAL has totally gone back to zero position.
It happened to me once.

Note my car is a RHD, so you visualize it mirror yah, on a LHD car.

The 2 locking latch you inspect, does it sit well.

 

Yeah, like I had said, I am not 100% sure the pedal hadn't popped back up fully, and it was merely the dash light staying on. The problem is largely fixed now that I replaced the handle and lubed the cable (as per video) profusely. But as mentioned, it is an intermittent bugaboo so I can't reproduce the malady. I will have to wait till it "hangs up" again and I will then check the foot pedal. Thanks!!

Edward

 

Similar video, perhaps comparing approaches: cable and spring lubrication

 

OK, confirmation and good news: the "hanging up" is due to the sluggish spring of the foot pedal!

I sprayed a good amount of lube onto the return spring as per the video (and for good measure dribbled more down the cable housing). Sure enough, once I worked in the lube sprayed onto the spring a few times, the pedal sprang right up with authority! Furthermore, I also confirmed that the pedal releases well before the end of the travel of the pull handle. So there it is, complete confirmation for me that this simple fix addressed a genuine nuisance. Big thanks to you guys for your thoughts and vids!

Edward

 

glad to hear. nice with Authority.

 

I see familiar pictures

steering convenience motors

Congrats on not giving up on this pedal working as it should
Enjoy!

While you have the practice and the tools to drop the dash undercover + plus your favorite oily spray, here a 5mn fix opportunity.


tilt gear nut
Lubricate between the nut contact surface and the black plastic.
This will help keep the column TILT working if nut is properly loosened and not self-tighten by friction.