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Engine wear and repairs are dictated by lubrication. You don't need to over pay for basic supplies.
Every oil companies swears their oil are the best with tons of compliance certicates.
The issue with engine oil is the viscosity is usually very short lived. Oil turns liquidy black...
A 5W30 is substandard everywhere except Alaska. Buy a 5W40 if you're in Canada.
Our engines rely on oil viscosity to work the VVT and tensioners.
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To support the viscosity argument, I've been having my oil tested and I spoke to the lab analyst (they made an error). In that conversation he was VERY surprised that the viscosity of the oil sample I sent actually matched what was on the bottle (tested at ~4,000 miles). He said that almost all oils didn’t matcht straight out of the bottle and that with miles, they got even worse and that was what would bugger up VVTs and lifters. Probably another reason why the experienced mechanics says change your oil every 3-5,000 miles.
I did ask him what his recommended oil for my M273 engine was. And I can tell you no one here will want to know. I don't need the hate!
Last edited by BlackML550; Feb 6, 2024 at 06:32 AM.
(My parents met when they were both working at SHELL Oil Co in the '60's.... my dad was always trying on new oils in his own engine.) - So viscosity performance was a familiar topic.
We can agree that we all have a similar viscosity target and understand viscosity is related to temperature, right?
Everyone is pegged on his favorite oil being the best and the cheapest where they know... AMZ👏
Every oil we pick is the best for us
The way piston rings are leaking a thicker oil is going to provide a thicker film. That's what it's all about: surfaces gliding on a film without rubbing.
Thin 0W-15 oils are amazing for ppl who need to be amazed. I can bet my hydraulics will like better 15W-40 honey.
Every engine runs at different temperature according to locale, mileage, blow-by, carbonized Lambda, driving style, ...oil pump pressure, internal unsealed leaks as discovered by @S-Prihadi front timing cover.
> MASTER PLAN:
Imagine a burnt black 0W-30 oil run under low pressure on dry heated pistons at extended intervals... dry pan: "Game Over".
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
FWIW, and maybe an irrelevant comparison, but I still have the 2004 Audi TT225 in the family and used either Castrol or Mobil 1 0W-40 every 5000 miles from Day 1. No oil consumption, no leaks. The car now has 249,000 miles. Maybe it's just psychological, but I want the quickest oil flow on startup that I can get.
Now, is 0W any quicker to flow than 5W or 10W at 32°F (0°C)? Probably not. So, I'll give 5W-40 a try on my next oil change (~6 mos from now). Then I'll be able to come back and praise the improvements of moving away from 0W.
FWIW, and maybe an irrelevant comparison, but I still have the 2004 Audi TT225 in the family and used either Castrol or Mobil 1 0W-40 every 5000 miles from Day 1. No oil consumption, no leaks. The car now has 249,000 miles. Maybe it's just psychological, but I want the quickest oil flow on startup that I can get.
Now, is 0W any quicker to flow than 5W or 10W at 32°F (0°C)? Probably not. So, I'll give 5W-40 a try on my next oil change (~6 mos from now). Then I'll be able to come back and praise the improvements of moving away from 0W.
Keep in mind the oil has to go up, as well as down. The thinner it is, the faster it will return to the pan. So, it is not a black and white answer. That is why the check valve was added, the oil was returning faster than they expected.
Mobil 1 0W40 since purchase at 27K. OCI at 7500-8K miles. Currently sitting at 66K.
if you drive your car near the limiter for say 3 miles (before getting a ticket, or the computer shuts the engine off), will it smell like burn oil when you park? Mine did when using M1 0W40. Once I changed to Motul 5W40, the smell was gone. Brand or weight? I do not know.
Mine had that nasty smell since new, and since I changed to Motul @85K miles, never again. Now @96K.
if you drive your car near the limiter for say 3 miles (before getting a ticket, or the computer shuts the engine off), will it smell like burn oil when you park? Mine did when using M1 0W40. Once I changed to Motul 5W40, the smell was gone. Brand or weight? I do not know.
Mine had that nasty smell since new, and since I change to Motul @85K miles, never again. Now @96K.
I do oil test to answer such questions.
Somehow no Mobil 1 users do oil testing and can't get current results.
I used M1 over 10 years ago and it was generating high iron on diesel engines. M1 had a chat room at the time, where their representative dodged the answer. Then M1 was removed form MB approval list, at least for diesels.
Now suppose their new formula is better, but no oil test and I am not going back to the brand, having other, easier choices.
if you drive your car near the limiter for say 3 miles (before getting a ticket, or the computer shuts the engine off), will it smell like burn oil when you park? Mine did when using M1 0W40. Once I changed to Motul 5W40, the smell was gone. Brand or weight? I do not know.
Mine had that nasty smell since new, and since I changed to Motul @85K miles, never again. Now @96K.
Have not ran into that and I push mine hard sometimes. I also have the Mobil 1 sticker on the radiator shroud so MB was indeed promoting them in 2016.
Hmm, sure seems that you are, fully aware, yet the engineers who designed this engine are irrelevant? My aforementioned claim stands, 0 weight oil leaks through seals faster and more frequently than 10 weight oil, this is an incontrovertible fact that all your bluster doesn't change. 0-W40 is acceptable, but so is 20-W50 down to 23F, Why would you choose a viscosity at either end of the acceptable range if you could pick the best from right in the middle? https://www.valvolineglobal.com/en-k...g-oil-weights/
Awesome, thanks for reaffirming your stance. Your pure obfuscation and distraction are now clearly apparent. It's ok not to address the direct point at hand ...you know, the "rattle" and "leak" part, but I won't belabor that which you don't want to address. After all, that might offer something useful to the discussion. Better yet, offer your impeccable credentials and then accuse others of "bluster" as that makes it very clear from this point forward. Well done.
Be well, all.
Dirty oil leaks are not about ego, no need to let out the apes ...
By now we have a pretty good idea what's best to lubricate our engines. Everyone has his own formula to pick what may work best for his driving habits.
We all seem to agree that 5kMi is about what our favorite oils can do well.
Here is something no one said: ADAPTATION AFTER OIL UPGRADE!
Recently I moved to a better oil, my VVT was responding to the improved viscosity. The ECU had to readapt its positioning map from lower RPM.
This is what I wanted, live test showed me what direction to go. Next time I know what to bump up for less internal leaks and better working pressure.
> LEAK, VISCOSITY, RATTLING:
The legendary RATTLING LOCK actually takes place while engine is running with poor pressure at reduced RPM.
To prevent that I want early RPM activation from oil effective viscosity.
In addition consider the hydraulic chain tensioners. Old leaky tensioners shafts benefit from improved oil grade.
Low oil grade combined with low oil pressure is not what I want to waste ressources on.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Feb 6, 2024 at 05:40 PM.
Awesome, thanks for reaffirming your stance. Your pure obfuscation and distraction are now clearly apparent. It's ok not to address the direct point at hand ...you know, the "rattle" and "leak" part, but I won't belabor that which you don't want to address. After all, that might offer something useful to the discussion. Better yet, offer your impeccable credentials and then accuse others of "bluster" as that makes it very clear from this point forward. Well done.
Be well, all.
Edward
I don't remember offering any credentials, nor will I offer you any advice or expertise in the future, your response indicates your utter arrogance and pompous know-nothing attitude, good luck! These 212's have numerous leak points, if you had any knowledge, you'd know that, but clearly your hubris precludes your ability to learn from others, revel in your ignorance.
Last edited by pierrejoliat; Feb 7, 2024 at 08:48 AM.
OK, personal apology time. From me, to you, in earnest. Upon reflection and consideration, my tone was more than sarcastic, and simply not kind. Fwiw, I have had a very stressful week in life, but that is merely my "explanation" and certainly no excuse for acting/writing without kindness and consideration to others. Without doubt, this was my failing, and I feel badly about whatever ill feelings I have caused at my doing.
Fwiw, I need not any acknowledgement of anyone reading this, only just to say here I have written badly, and thus behaved badly, and with this have caused you consternation. And as such, I genuinely apologize for my words and ill behavior. Be well to you, sir, and to the forumites I will do better.
Edward
not sure if it is appropriate to bring this thread back up but I am curious although I am personally recommend Pennzoil Platinum Euro, what are all your thoughts on:
Liqui Moly (not molygen because of this thread https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...ml#post8747556)
That said, I hear very positive results from forum members on using molygen despite not being recommended by the manufacturer, so there is that.
amsoil
motul
shell
castrol
Valvoline
(throwing mobil1 back in again for fun)
Please add in the ones I missed.
Would appreciate mentioning what oil specfically for example Liqui Moly Leichtlauf High Tech?
Castrol EDGE 5W-40 approved for MB 229.5
If you live in snow country, 0W is thinner to crank the car and flow easier
5W is fine for other zones and you can use 5W-30 also MB 229.5 if you are not going to thrash the crap out of the car
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
In addition to the 229.5 specification, we are now looking for API SP certified oils because they address Low Speed Pre-Ignition (LSPI) issues and cause less deposit build-up on direct injection (DI) engines.
Castrol EDGE 5W-40 approved for MB 229.5
If you live in snow country, 0W is thinner to crank the car and flow easier
5W is fine for other zones and you can use 5W-30 also MB 229.5 if you are not going to thrash the crap out of the car
In addition to the 229.5 specification, we are now looking for API SP certified oils because they address Low Speed Pre-Ignition (LSPI) issues and cause less deposit build-up on direct injection (DI) engines.
Indeed : ) Good point thanks for bringing this up again.
Castrol EDGE 5W-40 approved for MB 229.5
If you live in snow country, 0W is thinner to crank the car and flow easier
5W is fine for other zones and you can use 5W-30 also MB 229.5 if you are not going to thrash the crap out of the car
Im a big fan of Castrol Edge 5W/40 A3/B4 Euro Car oil as well. Was glad to see its MB 229.5 approved because ive always used it in all my porsche's as well. Its readily available at Wal-Mart (in 5W-40), and frequently on sale for $24.97 (for the 5 quart size). I believe frequent oil changes are much more important, and will have much more of a positive effect than any expensive brand of oil will, so i stick to Castrol and Mobil1 from walmart for half the price of Motul or LM. I prefer 5W-40 because i was told 0W40 is recommended by manufacturers only for fuel economy reasons, and 5W-40 is much better lubrication for your engine especially later on in the cars life. .
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I don't remember offering any credentials, nor will I offer you any advice or expertise in the future, your response indicates your utter arrogance and pompous know-nothing attitude, good luck! These 212's have numerous leak points, if you had any knowledge, you'd know that, but clearly your hubris precludes your ability to learn from others, revel in your ignorance.
