For now my extra lights adjustment is still "low".
I will improve it over time.


Take note of the stock low beam outer side the active one. Its beam measured higher by 2CM compared to light unit physical height....both above grounds.
But since the shape of the beam is spotty one, it does not glare opposite traffic.



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Static/passive



Both passive/static and active LED modules combined...as Low Beam



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I use 2 cameras here.
One is my oldie Samsung S10E phone camera and the dashcam Viofo A119 ini 2 with Sony Starvis 2 imager.
Most people test auxillary light with their smartphone or similar camera not using Sony Starvis 2 imager which is superior in low light and has HDR,
regular imager sensor it will make image look bright....but lots of blown out.

See the white Toyota Alphard rear, it is over blown using Samsung S10e. Sorry about the focus, I think the ALGO was choosing the end of the dashboard as focus point.
By right focusing point will be approx 25% mid center of an image.

Very high noise level, above.
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Very low "noise" level below.




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Extra Low Beam and stock Low Beam



Extra Low Beam and stock Low Beam




Another one...........
Extra Low Beam and stock Low Beam.


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Stock Low beam



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Same test as above using Samsung S10e.


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I wish the Ditch Light can do wider beam to the side, but it is not possible from where it is mounted.



The more I aim the Ditch Light sideway, the more beam get blocked by the grille.




If indeed an MB cornering light equivalent is what I look for as Ditch Light, it has to be mounted at the lower side grille because that grille is already angled....however, the light can not be hidden behind the grille.


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During the test, and while I was reverse parking at my friend's private marina, I noticed my W212 has a wide angle beam activated and it is not a cornering light.

Wide angle beam activated by the car and then de-activated, I did not do anything.

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Will continue............

 

The yellow light......
Looks very narrow beam, but its OK for me as I am only interested to use this in super heavy fog where car is creeping so slow and I need the beam to see
curb/grass or road edge and object in front of me at no more than 10 ish meters. The beam is actually wider than my car even at 3.3 meters distance.



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In theory , I can adjust my extra low beam top cut off to be at 50 meters away from the car, with effective illumination probably 40-45 meters away from the car.
At 52 cm installed height, if I set at 1 cm drop per 1 meter distance, I will get that 50 meters and I won't glare anyone.

Extra Low Beam : I already applied aluminum foil to remove any stray light from above the cut off. The red zone, below :

BEFORE :



AFTER






BELOW :
This is a bad example where a led with this kind of lens, similar to projector light, either the adjustment is bad and/or the light unit itself has stray light.


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This is another bi-led conversion with azz-hole setting.
The low beam is set to maximum distance at zero load. By the time the car has say 4 passengers and this car guaranteed to not have self leveling light system,
this is how its hurts to be opposite of this dumb-azz car.

Anytime a tall SUV like this car, with physical light unit much higher above ground did not set his headlight level properly.., me in a sedan with eye level only at approx
130cm while driving......hhhmmm, sore eyes I get.


The SUV azzhole above is a Toyota Fortuner.




Our midget W212, by height....








Will get some better use time on the extra lights and then make final adjustment and repair that dumb-azz non latching 3rd switch for the yellow light.
Shall update...............

 

Surya, 90% chance your MFK is responsible for HL deciding to switch that....

managed beam width

I like good white night light

 

Surely MFK and steering wheel angle sensor decides what to be done.
The wider angle light started its activation actually during reverse......
My apology, it is actually the Cornering Light

Here I am about to reverse, but not yet in R.



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Below : I am now in R. So when in reverse, BOTH L & R cornering lights will be activated, not so the case when going forward.





I just checked again on a later video clip when I departed this parking lot, this is cornering light and not anything else.
So during reverse at night, cornering light get activated BOTH L & R, which is good actually for surrounding awareness.


WHILE GOING FORWARD 1 to 3 images


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Below ; RIGHT cornering light


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BELOW : Car move forward a bit....... steering is still turning right.



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Above : Is it a camera thingy or am I seeing that my LEFT cornering light is not at bright as the RIGHT cornering light ?


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Low Beam is also ON


So my Ditch Light is still a tiny bit wider angle than the stock low beam, but surely does not have the angular reach of the cornering lights.





The Cornering Lights test :



The Test Summary from start to finish, excluding the Cornering Lights upon departure from the car park.


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Conclusion :

The original ILS 641 headlight unit , per unit/side for low beam and high beam is 31 watts. Module #1 and #2. So both sides are 62 watts.
The parking/standing light I do not bother to count.



Based on power consumption :
My extra Low Beam is 24 watts each, so both are 58 watts.
My Ditch Light is 30 watts each, so both are 60 watts.
Total 2 pair of aux lights at 118 watts vs stock 2 of ILS 641 headlight units at 62 watts.
Assuming the ILS 641 headlight unit has better reflectors and yada yada ........, the total illumination beams spread is still higher for the ILS 641 than my 2 pair of aux lights,
so overall brightness at a distance I can not expect too much from ILS 641 when the electrical power is only 50% of the aux lights . This is also proven from the Lux meter readings.








The lux readings.......

Stock Low Beam , ILS 641. From 3.1 meters.
The lower beam ( static LED module, inner ) is average 1,900 Lux. The small hot spot ( active LED module, outer ) is 3,100 ish Lux.
One must remember that this reading is basically a single RIGHT headlight unit only.



All Lux readings are from 3.1 meters, direction is RIGHT to LEFT and pass mid center only a bit, so about 60% of total beam width as per white board.



Only the 2 AUX lights, extra LB and Ditch lights.
Blue circle is a 5,200 - 5,700 lux. The average lux as per the car width is easy 4,000 lux. This is 200% of stock LB at the same beam height.




Combo : Stock LB and the extra LB and Ditch lights.
The blue zone is only extra 500 lux, assisted by stock LB.
The average lux now is 4,900 ish Lux, or 1,000 Lux better than ONLY 2 aux lights.




Overall I am quite happy, but not fully satisfied for the 50 meters zone.
The problem with lights is , double the distance the loss of illuminance ( Lux ) is crazy high due to Inverse Square Law




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Quote:

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Overall I am quite happy, but not fully satisfied for the 50 meters zone.

​​​​​​​MS! it's hard to be satisfied with anything once you know so much - Here you meet your goal of better road safety and survival chances for your wheels.

​​​​​​​

 

Indeed, these 2 aux lights will make pot hole more obvious at a greater distance compared to stock LB.

If I gain visual response time simply by 1 second, it would be good up to 80 KM/H, my estimated 20ish meters zone in front of the car to be very bright.





I would think that I can spot that pot hole 1 second earlier.
I have merged the 2 images on my video editor to see, what if on that Pot Hole day, I have the Extra Low Beam ?


ABOVE : The yellow line is my marker for the wheel to ground of the white SUV.


BELOW : It so happen that the yellow line is the limit where I see the extra Low Beam is still bright visually as per Dash Cam sensor, which we know it tone down brightness using HDR to win image details.




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Merged image below : I think if I have the extra low beam on that Pot Hole day, I would have seen the shape of the pot hole as anomaly on the road surface.




Too bad I did not test the extra Low Beam up to the point of the pot hole, which was repaired already like some weeks ago.

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new pot holes will be found to try your calculations and test your reaction time _LoL_

 

So, I replaced that damn 3rd switch.
In fact I bought 3 more new switches, so that I can do better back-light color and hoping these ALL new 3 switches will last longer than the original.
Now Extra Low Beam is now white color and not green , Ditch Light is/was blue ( but new switch ) and Yellow Light now get yellow back-light switch and not red anymore...



All the original wires of the switch, I throw them away and I do new one from my own stock, single core wires and double heat shrink wrap.




Because next week I plan to do "village grade" winding road for fun of driving.
Its just been repaired recently, so me only have short time before rainy season comes this Nov - Feb. Rainy season means new potholes will appear.
Rain now is actually already starting here and there.

Its a 250KM ish 1 way journey, of which the last 70KM would be fun and approx 20KM of it can be VERY FUN.





One of the MORE FUN portion.....
I call it MORE fun when there are no houses/buildings, so it is safer when I speed there and more so when at night. No sudden vehicle appearing and jaywalking.
Going there will be in daylight, coming back on the MORE fun road heading back to home/Jakarta I will wait till dark like 7PM ish.
So I will experience the MORE fun section in good light first to spot/log pot holes if any and then at night in the dark its the real fun one.
Let see how much enhancement my new aux lights will provide.

Night is much safer for me as I can see other vehicle lights and by using my super bright Led Bar high beam, I can tell other vehicles from far away, I am coming into the corner.
I worry of opposing drivers, who often when cornering ( even blind corners ) ... they will eat 50% into my lane, its a bad habit of local drivers and bikers to do that on tight bends..thinking they are F1 drivers doing the racing line
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This area some are 2,000+ meters altitude and can have thick fog, hence I need my new Yellow Light to be ready for use.

 

Okey more test...........


Highway.

Target achieved for extra bright but limited distance low beam in front of the car and a brighter wide angle to the side


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Yellow Light in the fog and with many tight corners, mine is not powerful enough and since by position it is very low , making it shine higher is not possible due to glaring the opposing traffic.
The green grass/plants as side of the road is better definition with yellow lights, but since my yellow light not wide angle and its aim not sideways, its not too effective.
It does help overall, but not much.




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This is mix between aux/extra low beam and wide angle ( ditch ) and stock Low Beam, running all the time.
The super bright one is Lazer 18 Elite LED Bar for high beam assist.



For crazy horse shoe corners, a true off road super wide flood light 150 degrees beam spread or more on car roof or on hood , installed 80 degrees side way L and R would be the only effective way.
Like my ugly drawing, in red.