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I don't like my ILS 640/641/642 LED headlight system, this is the highest variant of headlight on a W212 money can buy.
First of is the overall poor level of illumination, aka NOT BRIGHT enough for a modern car.
The high beam is super lame, but I have added an ECE complaint 53cm led bar as an awesome and Europe legal high beam add-on.
I am very happy with the high beam.
2 parameters I still am not happy with.
01. The low beam brightness level at its furthest reach, which is set by MB Indonesia at super close range while I have an auto leveling headlight system.
02. The cornering light.
Let's discuss Low Beam.
On white/grey concrete road, it is fine. If on black asphalt, it is lame.
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On black asphalt and it was dusk, where my eyes are still contaminated by the light in the sky.
See the video second is still 0:03 for image below, when that minor pot hole came out from its hiding, due to my low beam illumination level not bright enough 0.2 to 0.5 seconds ago.
I hit that pot hole, as I was not expecting there was a pot hole when I scanned the road as per 1st image.
I care more of other vehicles and concrete barrier, not pot hole on this bridge I often use.
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Last week I got my friend's W204 C200 headlight improved. This oldie all halogen headlight is beyond lame, it is pure garbage.... where my cheapo older Toyotas were having a bit better halogen headlight.
Cut the story short, the projector lamp assy of H7 halogen were replaced by a complete projector assy of a LED and it can do high beam too, using those window/shutter like how
MB Bi-Xenon lamp create Low and High beam from a single bulb.
It was a great sucess for the conversion. Now his W204 Low Beam is actually better than my E400, because his wattage is 55 watts each side, while E400 is no more than 35 watts each side.
The beam cut foff is also very nice, like a high end SAE legal/compliant fog light.
His high beam is RUDE, because only the H7 bulbs were replaced with a LED version H7 bulb and this is a typical normal reflector part of the light for high beam.
Good thing headlight is a RUDE light beam height wise.... but I call it rude is because my 53cm led bar as high beam is a more "polite" beam spread and height.
The new aftermarket projector lamp assy replacing MB projector assy. Yep, need to tear open the headlight shell.
High beam section, using H7 LED and was using H7 halogen
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Here I learnt something.
If you want proper low beam from a LED based bulb, if it still uses a normal refelector , it won't be good and/or it will give dangerous scatter to other drivers.
I seen some are decent, but no way you will have the beautiful cut-off from a good projector light assy.
Cutt off is the line where the bright light at maximum height of beam spread , is suddenly gone, as to not shine to other drivers.
Go to the very bottom of this link to see cut-off : https://www.auxito.com/blogs/news/he...0cutoff%20line.
If you buy a complete projector assy with the LED module already built in, it can be good because the light beam spread is built around the led module itself.
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Here is a good example of projector headlamp low beam, halogen and 2 other LED aftermarket projector assy.
Do note the last one, the Morimoto brand, the low beam height adjusment in my opinion is a tiny bit higher, but I have to admit it is indeed brighter than the cheaper LED.
It is no bull-shiet that the a good projector LED assy produces not only bright lights, it is high density aka very even illumination from front bumper to say 40 meters away.
Go to 11:36 to see the beam spread better when hand held.
I was googling when I found this S-Class W222 owner not happy with his headlight brightness level for long distance out of town.
I understand where he is coming from, I been there too.
So owner requested to have a non-obvious add on lights, stand alone switches for Low and High beam from 2 pairs of the mini LED projector aftermarket light.
I can understand the stand alone part, to prevent installer from messing up MB can-bus based headlights.
I don't agree with stand alone switch for the extra high beam, as it is too slow to turn off when using stand alone switch but it is the simplest form of install though.
............... The title reads" Owner complaining original headlight is not bright enough, so we give him a solution"-------------------------------
Car original low beam
Car original low beam added by 2 of the mini LED projector light of Low Beam assignment, in red marker.
Since the camera in use is auto exposure, the added brightness of the extra mini LED projector light of Low Beam assignment seems not too "bright".
I believe this extra mini LED projector is at 25 watts each.
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Green circle is car original HIGH BEAM. Red marker is aftermarket Low Beam over laying the car original low beam.
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After market low and high beam. So 2 mini LED projector as Low Beam and 2 more as High Beam.
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Green is car original HIGH BEAM, and those two red markers are Low and High Beam of the aftermarket mini LED.
How small is the mini LED projector ? Very small. Below is the generic size. Different brands will give different beam pattern and some can do Low and High Beam, where the high beam is yellow light.
About 5 x 5 cm is the frontal dimension.
So, what do I want to do for my low beam improvement and cornering light ?
Low beam improvement is straight forward, cornering light capability while my ILS LED has it, it is only for very slow speed of 40KM per hour or less and it needs steering input to start activation.
So I will kill two birds with one stone.
I enjoy roads like below and in night time, where less traffic : I call them horse shoe bends
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When this road was first asphalt well, from originally pebble roads, it was in 2004 there about.
This is approx 30KM long and after 8 PM, I only need to overtake no more than 5 cars on a 30 KM stretch....it is that lonely a road.
Electricity avaibility was also not 24 hours a day, day time only or no electricity at all for some area.... at this area back then,
so total darkness after 7PM is so good for me, as no villagers will hang out on the road when it is that dark.
I only fear of human being jay walking at night and crossing the road while I was doing high speed rallye like driving on this road.
This road I pass thru every other week if not 20 times a year ... while in 2004 to 2005 , because of a great diving spot on the south side of Java island .
Some area is still a palm tree plantation, hence not much houses there.
When I first drove this road in 2004, my only dissapointment was I do not have a proper super wide angle wide beam AUX light as cornering light.
That took the fun out of the drive as I want to attack the bends as fast as my traction allows a minor skid/slide ( not drift crazy slide ) .
LED aux light does not exist back then, I had to use Hella products, halogen based.
Basically I was setting the AUX light as DITCH LIGHT hahahaah
Today with LED techology and cheap optics, I have found a very wide angle super mini LED aux light and a decent wide angle one.
The two types of light I choosen to test, should arrive in myJakarta home when I get back to Jakarta in a few more days.
I will test them to see if their beam spread forward and maximum spread angle can suit my purpose for them.
One with the widest beam spead angle wise and quite a dense forward beam.
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Single unit only, not two units. In the dark
On a road with well lit illumination and a black car using halogen....as comparison.
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The beam density when against a wall. Tester was also suprised how wide left to right the beam is.
This baby sized AUX light has low beam mode in white LED and high beam mode in YELLOW LED.
I am not interested in the YELLOW LED portion.
This is combo beam Low Beam white and High Beam in Yellow. Why such arranggement ?
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This unit can be a good wide angle fog or ditch light set , set it at very low horizontal beam spread as to never glare anyone.
It does look at least 110 degrees beam spread.
Will update...................... when my itchy hands mess with them two types of lights next week
Btw, is the ILS working fully in Indonesia version? if not perhaps you can ask benzninja to enable it for you. LED should be better than bi-xenon. I saw demo videos of ILS working man that is awesome for driving at night.
My w212 bi-xenon is bright enough for me. What I dont like is the long start up times to get the light into full brightness, not instant on like LEDs. I did replace the xenon bulb to LED bulb and suprisingly gives good results. Sadly for yours the only option maybe add additional light such as those mini projectors (I personally dont like them).
I keep the new osram as backup in case the LED fails, but so far its been a year or so been great!
Oh my other car I retrofitted it by adding additional bi-led projectors since its japanese car, no need to worry about light control unit/canbus thing.
My ILS LED is fully activated, it is after all a European spec car is what we in Indonesia get.
I am a member of the BenzNinja club, but I never yet uses his service because I do not yet have the need.
My membership with BenzNinja is as back up, for when I can't do certain coding.
As with preventive maintenance I love doing, paid-in-advance expert assistance is part of the SOP.
Like an old saying in our language, before you shi-et dig a hole first and not digging a hole while the urge to shi-et is 1cm away from exit point
These old saying must be from rural villages back in early 1900 ... LOL
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My ILS LED is not bright, albeit supposedly highest variant.
I am sure your current Bi-Xenon with LED bulb retrofit is brighter, because it is 55 to 60 watt class....mine is 35 watts only, factory spec including DRL lights.
So maybe 25 watts NETT for low beam.
ILS LED works well ( although not bright enough ) when the road is low traffic, if a two way street.
British B road, RHD car like ours and super quiet road... it is good for the scenario.
If I do Jakarta-Bali, be it in Java island, we do not have regular non-paid highway roads this deserted like in UK ...and almost zero houses on the side of the roads.
This is what we have as you know :
On our regular roads, the ILS camera on the windscreen will get confused from alien lights of houses and the massive opposite traffic volume of cars and bikes.
ILS response is too slow for re-activation of the high beam.
For paid highway use it is useless, if the paid highway is like ours : say its a 2 lane , 3 meters wide grass ( or 50cm concrete barrier ) in the middle and 2 lane opposite traffic.
What we want to see is actually what is in front of the car..... in front of us, more so if the car is a tall SUV or bus or any bigger vehicle blocking our view.
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BTW, I think you need to measure/adjust your low beam height, it looks higher than normal, when and if your car is on the same flat level as garage white door.
Measure the center of the projector lamp assy to ground at low beam or have car 30cm from wall , mark its highest beam cut off on wall.
Under no circumstances the top of the low beam at its cut-off point is higher than the car headlight middle point at say car 1 meter away from wall.
Reverse the car, assuming garage floor is level , 5 meters away from wall, better if 7 to 10 meters.
The low beam highest beam cut off must now be lower than the marker by like 7 - 10 centimeters, so no glare will happen to incoming car as
the headlight beam is never above its zero horizon.
Most headlight retrofit shop does not do this kind of aiming method, they simply adjust by visual way the beam top level is to the floor some distance away from the car,
or a parked car tire.
Even for High Beam add-on, I took lots of trouble to adjust/aim it as polite as I can.
The mounting is important too, shaky shaky mounting will cause movement and glare.
This is my 53cm led bar, I love it as a high beam add-on. I just realized why it is 53cm as designed, it is because the registration plate holder is 54-55cm...lol. https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...e-no-more.html
@S-Prihadi good to know indonesian market has ILS activated already, although the effectiveness of it in our road conditions is questionable I tried to enable auto hi beam but it seems never activated lol
my car projector still stock, only the bulb is changed. Even still using original xenon ballast (to avoid canbus erorr messages), truly plug and play, so still 35W. Even so still brighter than the new osram CBI bulbs, I'm quite surprised tbh, because it's cheap and I thought it will not be as effective as using original D1S bulb. I change the cornering light to LED also, so all have the same color. I dont want to mess further
Regarding the headlight adjustment height, maybe its the angle, on flat roads its facing downwards, except on uphill (I thought my car has self levelling light? or only based on rear suspension height so it will adjust when its loaded or unloaded) So far no one flashed their lights at me
We have self leveling, but initial set up or after LED bulb retrofit, we need to do the manual leveling first to tell computer where the zero is, in case the light beam changes
due to LED vs Xenon actual physical light emitter placement difference.
Aha, I thought the LED bulb u use is 60 watts. You can use your bably launch to see the information on what is the minimum and maximum watts allowed by the SAM
for each of the headlight. I am sure the data is there. 2010 W212 may still be using Front SAM as headlight driver. Mine is by rear SAM.
Like this one, but this data is for my footwell light. I never try to see it for my headlight, as there is nothing to mess with for ILS LED 641.
I bought 5 types for fun, but I only will use 3 types.
No 1 is additional low beam
No 2 is DITCH LIGHT, well sort of
No 3 is Yellow Fog Light
Size reference, my Fenix tactical 18650 battery type torch and my headlamp torch and my smoke
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Camera uses its built in flash
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Brightness of the light in Lux, from 1.5 meters away.
The way I measure is by sliding the Lux meter left to right at brightest zone with 1-2 second pause approx per 5 cm of position change ( stabilize reading ) and continue right to left if there are two zones.
Extra low beam candidate
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Below is yellow fog light candidate. Only 1 slide measurement left to right since there is only 1 zone.
================= ALL LUX MEASUREMENT IN THIS POST IS 1.5 METERS AWAY FROM LIGHT SOURCE, EVEN THE CAR HEADLIGHT =====================
As reference, my E400 stock headlight low beam. Single head light only. RIGHT SIDE.
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The stock E400 High Beam is a combo of Low and High Beam. Actual high beam is a simple circle shape, very small area.
The stock low beam has wider beam spread than the candidate extra low beam, that is guaranteed.
If my primary goal is to have only 6 meters wide brighter low beam zone ahead of my car at maximum 30-40 meters distance, the extra LED low beam possibly will do the job as
it is not very wide but brighter by approx 5,500 lux than stock at 1.5 meters and that extra brightness is almost as wide as the entire beam itself.
Just for learning sake, how bright is my Lazer Elite 18 at 1.5 meters ?
Its center is 67,000 lux and the closest perimeter 1, at 40,000 lux and perimeter 2 or outer at 26,000 lux.
While my stock High Beam is only so small a coverage and maximum 14,600 lux only....hence it is super lame the stock high beam.
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The lower the installed height/position above ground the extra LED lamp can be installed, the thicker the beam will be, good for user.
See the line in green as reference zero position and the gate. Low installed position has thicker beam by approx 1.7x ...nice.
#2 Ditch light at 53cm above ground.
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These 24 watts baby sized light is very hot.
The number 3 super slim due to size, is even hotter than the number 1.
This is within 5-7 minutes of operation and not wind cooled. Static air
All 3 lights has its own cooling fan built-in.
If wind cooled, simulating car moving at even mild 20KM/H or 13MPH, in 45 minutes it reached only 49C maximum and stable.The extra low beam candidate #1.
My fan speed is slow and at lowest speed, probably maximum 10KM/H or 6 MPH. Tomorrow I will measure the wind speed.
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Driver is usually cooler by like 12 - 15C than the LED light itself.
I looked back at my last pot hole encounter, the dashcam footage.
I realized something other than my light is not bright enough at low beam, it is set very very low by MB Indonesia.
I think its maximum reach is no more than 20 meters or 66 feet.
This video still have natural light from a sinking sun at dusk, the dark zone behind the white SUV is actually a shadow of the tree, and it is obvious my light does not reach that distance.
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Red line below is my low beam maximum reach, and this is a sloping up road ( bridge ).
This is the pot hole 1st millisecond coming into my low beam illumination zone.
A few milliseconds later
A few more milliseconds later......
From the fringe of the tree shadow hiding the pot hole to actual front tire hitting the pot hole I measured on the video editor is 0.9 seconds.
Speed was 62 KH/H , so 1 second is only 17.2 meters movement........damn, it seems my low beam maximum reach distance is at best 17* meters ??? ( *road was sloping upward )
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I then look at my other dashcam archives.
I want to see my headlight compared to other halogen based headlight.
Below : While LED light color temperature of 6,500K seems nice and white and seemingly bright, it is not.
The car on the right is using halogen and while the color temperature is 3,000K , that car headlight is as bright as mine in terms of useable illumination.
He could also be using the upgraded 90/100W halogen instead of the standard 50/55watt. LED watts to watts usually is approx 300% more lumens than halogen and if 90 watts halogen, that is 30 watts LED equivalent
He can see what's on the road just as good.... if not better than me.
Could be better because halogen/tungsten is the golden standard 100% CRI value and it helps define objects. My 2014 oldie LED technology is probably at best 70 CRI.
CRI = Color Rendering Index
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Next car is the one in front, it is a Honda CRV old model above 10 years old on my right. His light is already weak, bad foggy reflector probably and must be 50/55watt halogen.
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Is my low beam very much better than this old Honda CRV ? Nope.
A bit better yes, but for wide angle beam spread , my car has much more beam spread at close range. This is good for 20 KM/H use
With all these facts, now I can plan better for my extra low beam baby LED lights #1 , aiming its maximum beam reach while being polite non glaring.
I can install the yellow fog light temporary , without removing bumper. This will be its actual position, where it tag along the 53CM Led Bar mounting system.
Low beam and the yellow fog light, visual height difference.
NOTE : I still have not set flat horizon for the yellow fog light yet, only the height.
The yellow fog light is aimed as such its light beam drop 1 CM at 1.5 meters away.
33 CM light height above ground, the beam top part is at 32CM high at 1.5 meters away.
We have self leveling, but initial set up or after LED bulb retrofit, we need to do the manual leveling first to tell computer where the zero is, in case the light beam changes
due to LED vs Xenon actual physical light emitter placement difference.
Aha, I thought the LED bulb u use is 60 watts. You can use your bably launch to see the information on what is the minimum and maximum watts allowed by the SAM
for each of the headlight. I am sure the data is there. 2010 W212 may still be using Front SAM as headlight driver. Mine is by rear SAM.
Like this one, but this data is for my footwell light. I never try to see it for my headlight, as there is nothing to mess with for ILS LED 641.
.... MS! I think I spotted something here.
This is the bulb current protection settings.
That's the function enabled by using calibrated shunt resistors sensors in-line with the load circuit.
The logic defines what the limit thresholds are: Higher current means "shorted bulb": 4.5A Lower current means "open bulb": 360mA In-between range means bulb "within specs"
As you've noted ("no warming") in this application setting lower current limit as 0mA will enable using low power LED's semi-conducting bulbs without triggering any fault.
Master Surya wants serious headlights to see incoming potholes at redline speeds -
You know what Cali's gonna say:
For super bright LED HL, guess what needs soldering?
The LED Module uses almost good connections that benefit from being reworked... We know your ALT output already supplies the best yoyo-free voltage.
Having reworked my basic LED HL, they are now ridiculously bright and white again like new. I kind of like them that way.
The cheap conventional high-beams bulbs are way dimmer and unnecessary - I get daylight ahea for at least 100 to 130 yards ahead.
The LED current is controlled by software that learns the bulb parameters (much like tranny learns shifts).
NOTE: they did not get "bright like new" right away after soldering.... only couple weeks later!!
LED current is definitely Pulse-Width-Modulated based on software feedback. Don't underestimate what SW control does...
You can have fun fixing that like passenger side HL module first so you can compare Left to Right side over a month.
The other thing is the LED module is temperature sensitive. Meaning with "extreme engine heat" HL Output may be scaled back. The 200°F radiator is right nearby... try to compare HL brightess with engine cold vs. operating temp.
You know how JR had the genius idea to research the list of MFK faults... @JettaRed
Do the same with your LED Module to understand what parameters this module cares about and what CAN partners it has - perhaps MFK is involved in HL aiming and HL power calculations.
We like you safe out there not mowing down swarms of moped traffic.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 09-23-2024 at 02:38 PM.
Aha, I thought the LED bulb u use is 60 watts. You can use your bably launch to see the information on what is the minimum and maximum watts allowed by the SAM
for each of the headlight. I am sure the data is there. 2010 W212 may still be using Front SAM as headlight driver. Mine is by rear SAM.
60 watts is a typical halogen DOT main (high) beam. LEDs tend to be 5-10 times more efficient than halogens, so I would expect considerably lower watts, somewhat offset by the larger area of illumination.
MB stock cornering light, its really-really close to 90 degrees from car mid center.
Front located LED chip shooting to the rear reflector and reflector split and aim the beam
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Beam test......... beam horizontal alignment is not so good yet. Distance to white board is 3.3 meters from lights.
Master Surya wants serious headlights to see incoming potholes at redline speeds -
You know what Cali's gonna say:
For super bright LED HL, guess what needs soldering?
The LED Module uses almost good connections that benefit from being reworked... We know your ALT output already supplies the best yoyo-free voltage.
Having reworked my basic LED HL, they are now ridiculously bright and white again like new. I kind of like them that way.
The cheap conventional high-beams bulbs are way dimmer and unnecessary - I get daylight ahea for at least 100 to 130 yards ahead.
The LED current is controlled by software that learns the bulb parameters (much like tranny learns shifts).
NOTE: they did not get "bright like new" right away after soldering.... only couple weeks later!!
LED current is definitely Pulse-Width-Modulated based on software feedback. Don't underestimate what SW control does...
You can have fun fixing that like passenger side HL module first so you can compare Left to Right side over a month.
The other thing is the LED module is temperature sensitive. Meaning with "extreme engine heat" HL Output may be scaled back. The 200°F radiator is right nearby... try to compare HL brightess with engine cold vs. operating temp.
You know how JR had the genius idea to research the list of MFK faults... @JettaRed
Do the same with your LED Module to understand what parameters this module cares about and what CAN partners it has - perhaps MFK is involved in HL aiming and HL power calculations.
We like you safe out there not mowing down swarms of moped traffic.
My LED light is too smart, aka azz-hole. Trying to dictate us the user . I hate it.
I wonder if I use MANUAL setting as in not in AUTO mode, will it be still dictating us the user ?
.... I need special edition Code 641x INDONESIA ... Pot Hole Special Low Beam
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.... Why the hell the low beam also get reduced power ( Low Beam light output can increase, that means normally low power ????? )
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Give me the old fog light pull button and I am happy. Single pull is FOG LIGHT-FRONT and double pull is Front and Rear.for lights
Now I can't choose front fog lamp only...dugggh.
I won't re-solder yet Cali
I was on a friend an Ionic 5 Hyundai EV Sunday nite. Its high beam and low beam is actually more lame than my E400
Not bright .
re: small fog lamps, on my 96 BMW R1100RS, I used these lovely little projector halogen fogs, Hella MicroDE, and they were on the bike about 80,000 miles in all kinda weather. They are also available as 'driving lights'. They use H3 halogens, 55 watts standard, but 90W are available, and they can be had in yellow or white. The standard 55W H3's last a long time, the high wattage ones lasted maybe a year. I left them on nearly all the time I was riding the bike. very clean cutoff pattern, with a medium wide horizontal spread. If I was rolling into a campground after dark, I'd kill the main headlight and just use the fogs
this is from when I was selling the bike, at 90000 miles (80k with the MicroDE's).
My back pain kicks in, standing too long and bending over to do the relays at battery region.
01. I do not want the 3 relays for the extra lights to be in the hot engine bay.
02. So I choose near battery, which is the cooler region of engine bay. This is the only place I can hide relays, very tight but do-able.
03. This region is also where my F32 Prefuse box is and I use 30G circuit to supply the extra lights, meaning when car sleep, the K2 relay will kill 30G , so no such thing as dead battery from being forgetful.
The wiring diagram
The switch set, 3 buttons, I got from a motorbike one.
The wires supplied is garbage.
1 button is Momentary ON ( probably for Flash High Beam ) and the other 2 is regular switch. So me have to buy extra 16mm lighted switch normal version.
Also the Light of the switch is always on like dashboard backlight, I re-do the wiring to be light of the switch to be ON only when I turn ON the extra light.
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Under the steering is the only place I can install this switch assy.
Not the best place in terms of turning the lights ON or OFF, but since these lights are not blinding High Beam type but all are polite low horizon non glaring lights, so no worry.
I have to use interconnect connector the DT6 for the Light Switch Assy, otherwise I can' easily remove the plastic trim.
My OBD2/DLC connector also get interconnect connector for ease of replacement of the female pins on the MB OE connector, which I have worn out the contacts.
Below : That grey wire is a 2 core shielded wire 0.5mm, for experiment. I keep it permanently there and the other end is at engine bay, near battery.
The right side OBD cable is for the Banks iDash Gauges.
The service hole now serves 3 cable set.
1 for this new extra LED lights, 6 core x 0.5mm
1 of Banks data cable , towards the analog sensor modules in engine bay
1 of grey cable, back up for experiment
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I was figuring out, how do I place 3 relays and 3 fuse holders when the engine false firewall is so thin and shape so un-even ?
The aluminum "wall" is that false firewall, a heat shield actually.
So I devised a flexible relay + fuse holder, which I can stick on un-even surface.
That is 2mm PU and it will isolate heat from that heat shield and is also an electrical isolator.
Relay wires are all soldered, no connector used.
Relay and fuse get nano or magic tape double side tape ( I love this product ) to stick and stay put on the PU sheet and a cable tie.
Relay get hot glue to seal its blade connector micro crevices, just in case water leak* from wiper tray ( *won't happen, it is a new wiper tray/cowling , it will be renewed every 10 years).
This fuse the female connector for fuse blade is really really good.
If this type of fuse holder , below is a junk piece of shi-et. The female connector is poor grip to fuse blade. This is what I can get locally.
The relay is Mercedes type with resistor ( P/N is A0025422619 if by MB ), but direct from Bosch. This is a 70A relay, very big but that is all I can get. The 2 power blades 30 and 87 are SO FAT !!!!
Remember, whenever you guys add or buy relay for W212, never never get basic one without resistor , which resistor duty is to absorb the voltage spike.
Starter Green relay M is special, that one has flyback diode which is even better at absorbing the voltage spike but has polarity requirement for installation, don't mess with that green relay, buy genuine MB.
Don't buy unbranded fuse please, too much Chinese garbage out there.
Here is a proper non-destructive fuse test. That Hioki RM3548 meter cost a fortune to buy....https://www.tequipment.net/HiokiRM3548.html
First fuse and relay set, deep placement. So that the other 2 set have space.
Again I am using Nano/Magic double side tape, which I can get locally. This one :
Remove F32 prefuse block. Need working room to prepare interconnect connectors and need to send 3 wires to bumper using holes available from brake pipes bulkhead , its under the F32 and made of rubber.
The relay and fuse set now ready.
Install battery and test if relay & fuse set will get squeeze by battery.
See how tight the space is there.......
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Install HVAC air box and see if new wiring set is in the way ? ............So far so good.
The XBB Relay and the orange wired fuse housing is for the LED Bar 53cm.
The other matte finish fuse housing ( Blue Sea System ) is the 3 amps fuse for the relays and the switches illumination.
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The 10cm M8 bolt arrived. I bought 12 cm and 13 cm ones, too long and ugly.
Drilling double thru holes at the ALU crash bar is no fun.... because I can only drill from under the car with a 20cm long drill bit .
If drilling from top side the radiator frame is in the way and I do not know if the drill bit goes super straight at the top ( 2nd ) hole or not.
So I must drill small pilot holes on top and at bottom with very careful measurement....so far so good.
The horizon flatness of the light is from how accurate I can drill the double thru holes if the mounting system of the light is as such.
The small yellow fog light is easy to adjust for horizon, because few L plates involved.
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Managed to drill double holes properly straight on the ALU crash bar for all 4 lights...wheeewwww
Drilling pilot hole at top side ALU crash bar, still my drill can't clear the top plastic radiator mount.
So must drill a bit angled.
Use sort of plumb bob to create straight line... I do not have a real plum bob.
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The real big hole 8.5mm ( M8 is 8mm, so 0.5mm misalignment allowance ) starts from below.
Very long drill bit, total length 20cm use-able cutting surface 15cm
Forgot to heat shrink tube the final +12V power wire for Ditch Light black ( double white dot connector ) , see the sore eye red color wire
Pre-insert heat shrink tube 10% chance I forget to do it when my mind was elsewhere.... LOL
Ground will be from the ALU crash bar itself, that is one very good ground.
All 6 drivers sit under the ALU crash bar.
Double taped a bit, only at both ends, so that that the cooling effect still can take place on the glued side, and then cable tie secured.
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While hidden wires are so crowded behind the ALU crash bar, none touches the condenser fins.
I am testing the one I call claw type...... Some MB nut also uses claw type, example the suspension arms, but the a bit different, but the working principle is the same, friction add-on.
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Did Uncle Murphy pay me a visit ?
Hell yeahh....................
The blo-ody light switches, all 3 were good and tested lots of time, until all placement of plastic trim and other Bank Gauge wires properly routed, and then the 3rd one ( most right-red button ) for yellow light,
failed to LATCH. Thus it becomes Momentary ON switch and not a regular ON-OFF....what a crap !!!! Why not fail earlier !!!!!
I hate doing job under the steering for proper OBD-Banks gauge wire routing. I have to actually lie on my head on the carpet face up, my legs all the way to the
seat headrest...... blood flow to the head...dugghhh, no fun.
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View , Front eye level.
View, raised eye level. A bit of smoke ...from me ...
Sorry, yellow light I can't power ON since it is now a Momentary Switch
09-12-2024 | 06:37 AM
I tried to enable auto hi beam but it seems never activated lol
https://www.tequipment.net/HiokiRM3548.html
