7G+ weird behaviour after sitting for 10 minutes.
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From: Wichita, KS
W212 2011 E350 RWD
Far from me to start any dispute but the engine heatsoak could be the last worry regarding the colour of gearbox oil.
Not to mention about pigtails...you are worried about Bosch solderless impeccable connection and you think about using Chinese pins and connectors for pigtails....in engineering always treat the cause not the effect, not to mention that a single point of solder on the wires will stop the oil superficial journey.
Here, the most important is to understand why the oil changed his colour - maybe maintenance history or bad torque converter, or any YouTube bizarre ideas about cooling radiator, etc.
In my opinion draining 4,5, adding 7, draining 2,5 just help the chemistry to start creating foaming and much more multicoloured products that's not considered FE oil.
Not to mention about pigtails...you are worried about Bosch solderless impeccable connection and you think about using Chinese pins and connectors for pigtails....in engineering always treat the cause not the effect, not to mention that a single point of solder on the wires will stop the oil superficial journey.
Here, the most important is to understand why the oil changed his colour - maybe maintenance history or bad torque converter, or any YouTube bizarre ideas about cooling radiator, etc.
In my opinion draining 4,5, adding 7, draining 2,5 just help the chemistry to start creating foaming and much more multicoloured products that's not considered FE oil.
First transmission service was done ~ 28 000 miles - previous owner
Second transmission services was done ~ 56 000 miles - previous owner
Third service was done by me at 96 000 miles - I got the car 95 000.
I don't think intervals were crazy high, but could be wrong?
If I have TC issues wouldn't that cause any codes to be record or drivability issues at all time?
So another drain and fill? I'm planning on ordering 6 liters this time...
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W213 All-terrain
Here in EU on non-AMG models we do transmission service every 125K km or 5 years for 089 models.
Why you buy 6? Although I am not sure about your model exactly, but I always buy 10 liters as 7G+ use like 9-9,5. Including Torque and radiator.
If you will still not find the drain screw on TC, you can take out the retour pipe ( the one that return the oil from radiator to the gearbox) and let the new oil push the old one till will become clean....after pumping enough new oil.
Why you buy 6? Although I am not sure about your model exactly, but I always buy 10 liters as 7G+ use like 9-9,5. Including Torque and radiator.
If you will still not find the drain screw on TC, you can take out the retour pipe ( the one that return the oil from radiator to the gearbox) and let the new oil push the old one till will become clean....after pumping enough new oil.
Thread Starter
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From: Wichita, KS
W212 2011 E350 RWD
Here in EU on non-AMG models we do transmission service every 125K km or 5 years for 089 models.
Why you buy 6? Although I am not sure about your model exactly, but I always buy 10 liters as 7G+ use like 9-9,5. Including Torque and radiator.
If you will still not find the drain screw on TC, you can take out the retour pipe ( the one that return the oil from radiator to the gearbox) and let the new oil push the old one till will become clean....after pumping enough new oil.
Why you buy 6? Although I am not sure about your model exactly, but I always buy 10 liters as 7G+ use like 9-9,5. Including Torque and radiator.
If you will still not find the drain screw on TC, you can take out the retour pipe ( the one that return the oil from radiator to the gearbox) and let the new oil push the old one till will become clean....after pumping enough new oil.
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W213 All-terrain
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W212 2011 E350 RWD
I said the ATF was dark, doesn't mean it was burned, burned ATF has a really distinctive smell. From all my online search - 40k miles (which was my last interval) is half the interval you mentioned 65k kms.
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W213 All-terrain
How would ATF look like after 5 years or 125K km in Europe? I highly doubt it will be bright blue?
I said the ATF was dark, doesn't mean it was burned, burned ATF has a really distinctive smell. From all my online search - 40k miles (which was my last interval) is half the interval you mentioned 65k kms.
I said the ATF was dark, doesn't mean it was burned, burned ATF has a really distinctive smell. From all my online search - 40k miles (which was my last interval) is half the interval you mentioned 65k kms.
Sorry about "burned", I should use "old" or " oxidated _... anyway, mixing could lead to foam or even marmalade.
Do you mix old with new oil on engine?
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From: Wichita, KS
W212 2011 E350 RWD
With the transmission it's a bit different, at least on my end, I really don't feel comfortable disconnecting that line, etc.
Is disconnecting the return line do drain all the fluid in the MB procedure as an option or just something you're doing out of experience?
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W213 All-terrain
I don't want to argue, but you never really get all the engine out of the engine either... there's always a small amount left.
With the transmission it's a bit different, at least on my end, I really don't feel comfortable disconnecting that line, etc.
Is disconnecting the return line do drain all the fluid in the MB procedure as an option or just something you're doing out of experience?
With the transmission it's a bit different, at least on my end, I really don't feel comfortable disconnecting that line, etc.
Is disconnecting the return line do drain all the fluid in the MB procedure as an option or just something you're doing out of experience?
And it's not " all the fluid", it's only the part from TC and radiator. Start engine like 1 minute.
A small amount like some 100 milliliters over 9,5 liters.... acceptable of course.
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From: Wichita, KS
W212 2011 E350 RWD
Are you willing to share that procedure, I don't have access to WIS? Thanks in advance.
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W213 All-terrain
Did you remove the auxiliary oil pump from transmission, when you removed oil pan? I would use VIN to try again to find the screw.
Last edited by trigital; Oct 1, 2024 at 05:41 AM.
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From: Wichita, KS
W212 2011 E350 RWD
I pretty much followed the procedure here:
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W212 2011 E350 RWD
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From: Maryland
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Oxidation is caused by heat. Apparently, if the fluid never exceeds 170°F, the fluid should last 100k miles. At 190°F, about half that. However, my normal operating temperature of my transmission fluid is 180°F, so the 77,500 interval is safe.
@georgiuzunov should be fine with the intervals given without doing a complete flush. Though I have not used it, there is an adapter from CTA Manufacturing that uses low air pressure from an air compressor to force out all the fluid. It has fairly good ratings and is also offered by FCP Euro, whom I trust.
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W213 All-terrain
OP ..."should be fine with the intervals given without doing a complete flush.", but it's not fine...
OXidation came from long contact with the Oxygen
Of course if you drain the TC is not necessary to clean the radiator of there is no complaints....
I would not use air pressure inside the transmission, as inside is everything about.... pressure, pistons, brakes, valves, etc.
OXidation came from long contact with the Oxygen
Of course if you drain the TC is not necessary to clean the radiator of there is no complaints....
I would not use air pressure inside the transmission, as inside is everything about.... pressure, pistons, brakes, valves, etc.
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2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
My observation is that the auxiliary pump is for cars with ECO Start/Stop only since the pump is what keeps the transmission oil pressure at the necessary level for immediate engagement. Decoding his VIN, his car does not have ECO Start/Stop and, therefore, may not have an auxiliary pump.
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From: Fleriduh
W212 E63S Wagon - GSL580 - E63 - E350 - C300
Heck of a good call there. I would imagine disabling the stupid "Eco" start is one of BenzNinja's most popular "mods".
I have kept pretty out of this (PTSD from when I had the Trans Fluid changed in my 350). It was a three week long saga of leaking fluids, comical "smoke screen" miles and threats of lawyers......this all at a reputable Mercedes / BMW shop......
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From: Maryland
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
OP ..."should be fine with the intervals given without doing a complete flush.", but it's not fine...
OXidation came from long contact with the Oxygen
Of course if you drain the TC is not necessary to clean the radiator of there is no complaints....
I would not use air pressure inside the transmission, as inside is everything about.... pressure, pistons, brakes, valves, etc.
OXidation came from long contact with the Oxygen
Of course if you drain the TC is not necessary to clean the radiator of there is no complaints....
I would not use air pressure inside the transmission, as inside is everything about.... pressure, pistons, brakes, valves, etc.
WRT flushing with air, it is done at lower pressure (~7 psi), which is probably less than the pressure used when Mercedes does a fluid flush. The CTA tool has been around for a long time. If there were problems, they would have shown up by now. The tool is also demonstrated on Legit Street Cars YouTube channel, beginning around the 23 minutes position.
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From: Maryland
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Heck of a good call there. I would imagine disabling the stupid "Eco" start is one of BenzNinja's most popular "mods".
I have kept pretty out of this (PTSD from when I had the Trans Fluid changed in my 350). It was a three week long saga of leaking fluids, comical "smoke screen" miles and threats of lawyers......this all at a reputable Mercedes / BMW shop......
I have kept pretty out of this (PTSD from when I had the Trans Fluid changed in my 350). It was a three week long saga of leaking fluids, comical "smoke screen" miles and threats of lawyers......this all at a reputable Mercedes / BMW shop......
Joined: Nov 2016
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From: Maryland
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
ECO Start/Stop is one of his most popular mods. But I had already spent over $300 to get the Mid City Engineering device to eliminate the start/stop on my two cars before joining the BenzNinja Club. I could have saved A LOT of money if I had discovered him years ago when I had my SL500.
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My observation is that the auxiliary pump is for cars with ECO Start/Stop only since the pump is what keeps the transmission oil pressure at the necessary level for immediate engagement. Decoding his VIN, his car does not have ECO Start/Stop and, therefore, may not have an auxiliary pump.
Joined: Nov 2016
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From: Maryland
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
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As here there is very few 7G+ without Auxiliary pump in the EU, that's was my purpose asking about removing the pump, for gaining access to the drain screw.
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E350 W212
Oh boy, please do not rely on pedal method to reset transmission points. Don’t confuse reset of throttle adaptation values with calibrating shifting ranges against the predefined torque parameters. Another point that I want to make is OEM fluids are great, if you like to stick to approved lists. But always keep in mind that the manufacturers sometimes tell you that transmissions can run lifetime they don’t want you to have ultra quality fluid to keep your car running forever. Make your own conclusions.
they don’t want you to have ultra quality fluid to keep your car running forever. Make your own conclusions.
