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Great for bleeding brakes, too. The adapter allows sucking the brake fluid out instead of the type that forces it through the reservoir. I've never used it that way, but I imagine you need to keep an eye on the fluid level or have a helper to add brake fluid while extracting from a caliper. It looks like the shut off valve would allow you to suck some out, close the valve, add fluid, and suck some more.
That sucks!
I had just added the cheapie nipple adapter, but that valve is a good idea. Without the valve you just use a little bit more fluid because of making sure to top up. Really to stop the vacuum on the brake you just close off the nipple and the vacuum continues and sucks the brake oil out of the tube instead of dripping out of the end.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by Baltistyle
I had just added the cheapie nipple adapter, but that valve is a good idea. Without the valve you just use a little bit more fluid because of making sure to top up. Really to stop the vacuum on the brake you just close off the nipple and the vacuum continues and sucks the brake oil out of the tube instead of dripping out of the end.
Duh! I was just overthinking stuff.
Last edited by JettaRed; Apr 19, 2025 at 09:06 PM.
Mityvac 7201 is very good. It’s capacity is 8.8 liters, which is just perfect for my V8 engines with 9qt (8.5L) of oil.
I have had this for very long time now over 10 years and it still works fine without ever cleaning it after use. Just pump oil out to jugs to take away.
I do need to replace it at some point as I once had too much oil and the little check valve failed and let oil in the pump but when it stops working I will get the exact same thing again if it is still available.
I don’t know why some people seem to take time and clean it after each use? The whole good idea of this thing is that air pump for vacuum only pumps air. Oil is not flowing thru the pump so the seals do not get damaged by oil. Like I said I had oil once go in the pump but it still works so the seals must be good for oil…?
I was also thinking about getting the pneumatic version and I would if I had a compressor running at all times, but I don’t. The hazzle of getting my compressor running and then draining and drying it takes more time than doing ax. 30-40 hand pump movements and so does not warrant for pneumatic model. But this is just my case…
Mityvac 7201 is very good. It’s capacity is 8.8 liters, which is just perfect for my V8 engines with 9qt (8.5L) of oil.
I have had this for very long time now over 10 years and it still works fine without ever cleaning it after use. Just pump oil out to jugs to take away.
I do need to replace it at some point as I once had too much oil and the little check valve failed and let oil in the pump but when it stops working I will get the exact same thing again if it is still available.
I don’t know why some people seem to take time and clean it after each use? The whole good idea of this thing is that air pump for vacuum only pumps air. Oil is not flowing thru the pump so the seals do not get damaged by oil. Like I said I had oil once go in the pump but it still works so the seals must be good for oil…?
I was also thinking about getting the pneumatic version and I would if I had a compressor running at all times, but I don’t. The hazzle of getting my compressor running and then draining and drying it takes more time than doing ax. 30-40 hand pump movements and so does not warrant for pneumatic model. But this is just my case…
Wow thanks for sharing, you didn't even have to clean it? Niceee that is truly maintenance free. I am guessing you didn't use it for other fluids and only engine oil? There are no bad odours right?
Wow thanks for sharing, you didn't even have to clean it? Niceee that is truly maintenance free. I am guessing you didn't use it for other fluids and only engine oil? There are no bad odours right?
I did change my transmission fluid with it once on my 2012 S550. I rinsed it out with the Pentosin fluid first, so no engine oil enters the tranny.
And no cleaning or bad odors other than it smells oli as that is what it is used for.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by Arrie
I was also thinking about getting the pneumatic version and I would if I had a compressor running at all times, but I don’t. The hazzle of getting my compressor running and then draining and drying it takes more time than doing ax. 30-40 hand pump movements and so does not warrant for pneumatic model. But this is just my case…
I have a 25 gallon air compressor and this 6 gallon pancake compressor. I use the pancake compressor for oil changes, inflating tires, etc. The 25 gallon compressor is used for bigger jobs, such as paint spraying. I've pretty much have replaced my air tools with battery tools.
Using the pancake compressor is a simple as twisting the drain valve 90°. I agree, the bigger compressor is more of a pain to use.
Last edited by JettaRed; Apr 20, 2025 at 05:15 PM.
How did you do that? You have a 7G+ transmission, don't you.
For removing the old ATF you drop the pan after you first drain it as much as comes out after knocking that tube "riser" of position in the drain/fill connection.
New liquid went in by adding little extra fluid in the MityVac and pumping it in using the connector that is made for it. When connector was removed the extra ATF came out over the tube riser in the pan. I let it idle until temp was 80C and put the plug back on.
I have read some discussion about the ATF changes and how it needs to be cool. I think it needs to be like 80C that is the operating temperature. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but it has been working fine since the change was done.
I have a 25 gallon air compressor and this 6 gallon pancake compressor. I use the pancake compressor for oil changes, inflating tires, etc. The 25 gallon compressor is used for bigger jobs, such as paint spraying. I've pretty much have replaced my air tools with battery tools.
Using the pancake compressor is a simple as twisting the drain valve 90°. I agree, the bigger compressor is more of a pain to use.
I have the exact same pancake as you show in the picture. Setting it up for me means digging it out from storeroom and then starting up and connecting the hose reel. It needs to run a couple minutes to get fully charged.
After use I need to let it run like 3 min with the valve open for drying the tank of water that condenses in it and then put it back in storeroom. This is about 10 min of time, and I can do manual pumping in way less than that so I don't see the benefit of the pneumatic MityVac.
But hey, all for ourselves. And the pumping this thing gives a little exercise that I get very little...
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by Arrie
I have read some discussion about the ATF changes and how it needs to be cool. I think it needs to be like 80C that is the operating temperature. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but it has been working fine since the change was done.
So, my transmission oil level is a little lower than it should as I let it hotter when setting the level. Car has, as I said, worked fine for 35000 miles with it so I think I'll leave it be.
Just quick calculation estimate: ATF expands 6.4 - 8 x 10^-4 / degree C. Using 8 x 10^-4, if we assume 8L of ATF it makes oil level in the pan (200mm x 400mm) change by about 3.5mm with +45C difference between 80C and 35C temperatures, i.e., I will lose that much level with overheating the tranny by 45C...like I said, no problems after 35000 miles so far. But I will not heat quite that high next time for the "overengineers" in Germany.
The pdf about the oil level and temperatures could not be more confusing... wait, they are Germans... they will find a way to make something else even more confusing...
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
The good thing is that if this is going to keep you up at night, you can check the fluid level (and add if necessary) without dropping the pan or draining it.
The good thing is that if this is going to keep you up at night, you can check the fluid level (and add if necessary) without dropping the pan or draining it.
Yeah, it is so easy. Just jack the car up on stands and crawl under it and see what comes out from the hole and if dry pump more in.
I don't worry about it one bit. If there was a problem, it would have shown way back already.
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