Cali,
Let's not waste our time discussing your VVT "expertise" and complicated oil-cocktail.
Its old news.
To each his own limits... always better safe than sorry:
VVT phasers okay on MOD-1
Only 5W-40 approved oil is good
This being your coolant repair thread. We're missing part of the story... whats the root cause ?
I don't buy MB is mixing coolant with tap water.
In your tropical weather, I wonder if you have QUANTIFIED ENGINE HEAT SOAKS after shut downs?
> COOLANT HEAT SOAKS...
Like what coolant pressure is developed by engine block cooling system after shut down.
Temp will stay local but pressure will be shown system wide.
> FUEL HEAT SOAKS...
Collateral to block heatsoak is hissing fuel rail pressure.
How does pressure goes??
Perhaps it's normal
perhaps it can be tamed.
> OIL HEAT SOAKS...
Heat is not in coolant it's in the pistons... WIS says dry pistons are awesome, yes?
Extreme heat level derates oil viscosity.
PAO dislikes extreme piston heat nearly as much as group-III synthetic do.
PAO specs is around 230°C Max above that rings grooves pile up solids.
Do you think heat can be removed effectively by your new cooling system ?
This heatsoaks canceled.
You know, I am sick and tired of listening to your oil-cocktail talk, because you assume it works for your M276 3.5NA, it must then work for other engines.
Its like as broken record Cali.
You keep repeating it again and again, as such I do not even want to participate in the oil solenoid thread anymore....its boring.
What do you want me to do ? Listen to you and follow your oil cocktail, so that you will then stop ?
You speak like you are the designer of VVT and you are Lake Speed Junior and Mercedes engine designer..... all in 1.... wow.
Just because your defeat your oil pressure control solenoid, you thus became instant expert on every aspect of the engine.
You speak like you have tons of logs on your engine parameters, but you got nil. Only azz dyno.
Tell me what is the difference between a similar M276 3.5NA of other members and your engine.. (oil solenoid defeated on the engines )
Its only the oil cocktail you did , if all else mechanically being equal wear and tear and fuel quality.
So please, in my thread, do not ever again speak of your oil cockail...or else I could puke.
You are a good forum friend, but there are limits to my preseverence when the same broken record is being played again and again.
You know, I am sick and tired of listening to your oil-cocktail talk, because you assume it works for your M276 3.5NA, it must then work for other engines.
Its like as broken record Cali.
You keep repeating it again and again, as such I do not even want to participate in the oil solenoid thread anymore....its boring.
What do you want me to do ? Listen to you and follow your oil cocktail, so that you will then stop ?
You speak like you are the designer of VVT and you are Lake Speed Junior and Mercedes engine designer..... all in 1.... wow.
Just because your defeat your oil pressure control solenoid, you thus became instant expert on every aspect of the engine.
You speak like you have tons of logs on your engine parameters, but you got nil. Only azz dyno.
Tell me what is the difference between a similar M276 3.5NA of other members and your engine.. (oil solenoid defeated on the engines )
Its only the oil cocktail you did , if all else mechanically being equal wear and tear and fuel quality.
So please, in my thread, do not ever again speak of your oil cockail...or else I could puke.
You are a good forum friend, but there are limits to my preseverence when the same broken record is being played again and again.
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ok I get you: 5W-40 period.
I am the same way with tranny oil: stock only.
No one can sway you out of your comfort zone. You can keep managing familiar status quo. There is value in predictability.
Most topics are hardly new for technicians who deal with these cars. Improved details bring differences.
Anti cocktail mix:
Do you use an oil rince procedure to switch chemistry SN to SP ?
I have learned many interesting tips from you. My DNA has long been biased for straight solutions. There are few more GDI items that need to be reworked.
I am discovering what topics are out of your scope to RESPECT your consensus: "you know your engine better than I do". Your turbo heat is normal.
Thanks to Surya who's studies helped identify tips for painless W212 ownership:
I researched how to disable CAN-bus issues in W212.
I've got more tips coming to help engine kick-*** timings, hopefully finalized by years end.
Excellent ! I'm sure many members can't wait to read it. Enjoy your scuba diving ! I have to get out to the airfield.
Car buttoned up and I did a long test drive yesterday Sunday, and dinner too.
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My bloody brake pad of right rear PARKING BRAKE is making cheapo noise...dugggh.
Anyway, all went well, but I never ran the engine hard yet.
Engine parameters. 100 minutes log. Total run almost 140 minutes actually and about 70KM.
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My HVAC system
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Testing of alternator stand alone smart charging.
I charged the battery up the night before this test.
See 0.1 and 0.2 amps only.....very nice Valeo charge controller which is built into the alternator. I like it.
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Today, stripped down the rear right parking brake system...again.
This time I sent my Disc/Drum combo to machine shop for simple surfacing. I hope by tomorrow Tuesday it shall be ready.
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Actual pad to drum contact surface is very low/small.
BELOW : This was when I bought the car and 1st time I cleaned up the parking brake in 2021
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I replaced with new complete parking brake kit, 100% all new later in 2022 and its still on my car now.
But I never done any surface correction on the drum side.
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Standing by for Rotor Disc-Drum to be ready from machine shop.
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My rubber grip-jacket for wheel speed sensor and brake pad wear cable are now broken to bits.
This will surely happen before year 13th of car age, as I seen on my friend's C200 W204
This is what I meant by rubber grip-jacket
DIY fix
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Lift up the car again today and inspect any oil and coolant leak. ALL GOOD.
Me fine tuning my AUX LIGHTS and tripple camera dashcam, its low bumper positioned front camera.
Amazing, amazing graphs and charts.
Have you ever explained how you were able to genthem, and publish them on the forum?
It is from my Banks Gauge set, which is OBD2 system reading car OBD2 data out and also the Banks Gauge has its own sensor modules using its on CAN-BUS system,
and all the data is logged to a CSV file.
Another BIG brain fart moment on my part, too much distraction from a moron yacht "client".
I was adjusting the AUX lights since last nite, and to protect my condenser, I use the usual white plastic board as protection layer.
This morning while waiting for the rear brake rotor/drum return from machine shop, I then proceed to adjust the gap of my original headlights to the bumper, as it has room to be out of position by 4 millimeters, for adjustability reason.
So the bumper need to be installed first and I adjusted the headlights install nicely, all flushed. All good.
2 screws of headlight install needed front fender liner, half-front to be removed, otherwise with bumper installed, there is no access.
.Above is 2nd screw, T27 Torx if I am correct.
Below is 3rd screw size 8 metric and is hidden behind, the frame my finger is pointing.
3rd screw is acessible, easy.
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By mid noon the rear brake rotor/drum arrived and I installed it.
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Use the engine and tranny in D to test contact area, the parking brake pad itself is not even/flat a 100% due to previous condition of the disc rotor/drum before machining.
See the color difference on the contact surface.
So noise is still there and only get reduced when I run engine and tranny in D and press parking brake pedal like 3-4 clicks.
When noise reduced much, the left rear is STILL quieter than the right side, as the parking brake pad is the noisy bas-tard.
Now my right rear parking brake adjustment is still near zero, thus its grip is not as good as LEFT side...yet.
I will polish again tomorrow.
I really hate parking brake drum style, it is so primitive.
I was feeling hot, afterall today is 31.5C / 89F ambient temp and usual very humid close to 80%.
So while "polishing" the rotor-drum with the parking brake pad using tranny in D, I turned ON my car HVAC.
Within 2 minutes, the radiator fan goes to top speed...duggghhhhhh.
Damn, it must be high pressure of refrigerant, so I thought.....could it be my new R134A pressure sensor went bad on me ?
I got busy setting up Xentry and the Fieldpiece wireless pressure gauges. I need to compare car built in R134a pressure sensor vs the Fieldpiece to be sure.
22 BAR = 319 PSI , no way in hell my HVAC HP side ever get this high
15 BAR or 218 PSI is as high as it will get.
I tested again and I revved engine higher this time.
Sh-iet, what went wrong ?
I then looked at my photo archive to see the actual position of the car r134a sensor position, vs the HP service port as there is a second or two delay of
pressure rise between r134a sensor compared to the Fieldpiece gauge at HP service port.
I then realized dumb-azz me, I did not remove yet the plastic white board for condenser protection, as I am still not 100% done and will remove the bumper again
tomorrow .
So it was no airflow to the condenser.
I initially thought about it, but I just cleaned it well and all good and HVAC been oke for 4+ hours test and ride on Sunday and Monday whole day.
Man, with bumper installed, and in the evening .....the white board is not visible unless I shine a light to condenser hahahahah.
I learnt something out of this dumb-Azz-me, the radiator fan will go into 76% duty ( max is 90% duty as 100% power ) merely at close to 18 BAR R134A pressure or 261 PSI
Remember the Fieldpiece reads slower ( more downstream ) than the car's R134A sensor.
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The last time I seen a CLS AMG 63 which I troubleshoot, its R134A sensor drifted so far, it was showing like 24BAR or 348 PSI and radiator fan went to top speed mode.
Now I know 20 BAR ( 290 PSI ) or even a bit less will make fan 100% power.
20 BAR or 290 PSI is 67.5C or 153F temperature of the R134A itself.
S.Prihadi,
If I am reading your last post correctly, your whiteboard, protecting the evaporator, was left in for a test drive.
In your part of the world, you would not see, that in frigid climates, a radiator vest is used, to limit the cooling the engine is getting.
The most convenient versions are zipper equipped, to open and close the vest to varying amounts to match the relative frigidity.
In a manner of speaking, you reinvented the wheel, if in this case, the wheel is a radiator vest.
S.Prihadi,
If I am reading your last post correctly, your whiteboard, protecting the evaporator, was left in for a test drive.
In your part of the world, you would not see, that in frigid climates, a radiator vest is used, to limit the cooling the engine is getting.
The most convenient versions are zipper equipped, to open and close the vest to varying amounts to match the relative frigidity.
In a manner of speaking, you reinvented the wheel, if in this case, the wheel is a radiator vest.
It was not a test drive on the road for the parking brake, it was dyno mode on Quick Jack in my garage.
I have some sort of LSD differential and I can apply decent parking brake pressure to bed the brake pads and both wheels can spin.
If standard open DIFF, I can't do this. I tried on my friend's W204.
The old parking brake pad on new machined surface, is not good.
Still noise at times ( dyno mode, on quick Jack, tranny in D ) and the new machined surface is adapting to the bad surface of the brake pad.
Above : The high spots of the old parking brake pad slowly ruining the new machined surface , not good.
Garbage design, parking brake this drum style is. So crude. So imprecise.
The cable pull will produce the top brake pad to "expand" more like 60% than the lower one approx 40%.
After that we hope for the servo effect....which will need wheel to spin at least 120 degrees first before proper bite....the servo effect.
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At this point in time, the RIGHT SIDE new parking brake pad need to bed down first.
Now its bite is not as good as LEFT SIDE , which I did not touch at all.
My parking brake adjustment where I deemed good is when :
AA. Full-maximum parking brake pedal click, it must be decently strong enough to hold the car while in D and with a bit of throttle like 1,500 RPM.
BB. 20 degrees slope, at 75% of maximum click should be enough.
CC.. Perform AA and BB , while the pad is very mild touch to drum surface when in standy-by mode.
My LEFT SIDE parking brake is already at this good state as above, the RIGHT SIDE will need time.
So, I shall close this thread.
No fuel leak, no oil leak, no coolant leak from radiator system and aftercooler.
Albeit I have not driven hard the car yet, I would think all went well.
DID I MADE ANY "PROFIT" ON BOLTS ?
Yes I did, 3 pcs and took me some hours to figure out which region I forgot to bolt down ?
I found 1 location/bolt, its the coolant pipe for Bank 1 turbo from engine block to turbocharger, so this is input hose-pipe.
This coolant pipe has 1 L plate to extra secure the coolant pipe. Labeled as #1 in red. Installed it, done.
The two extra bolts #2 and #3 are because MB new hose-pipe set, removed the needs for extra 1 bolt mounting L plate.
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The removed L plate or bolts are where the old pipe-hose sets uses cylinder head, near COP as extra mounting point.
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
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