The 1,400C ( 2,500F) anti-seize arrived, so I can then tightened my LEFT bank CAT to the short flange which I had to chase the female nut thread.
My other anti-seize is only up to 982C / 1,800F and it is not enough as my front wide band sensor when I run hard it registered 930C or so temperature.
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I hope this 1,400 Celsius anti-seize will prevent my nut thread from going bad again.
Its white...hhhmm, my 982 Celsius Loctite anti-seize is mettalic gray color.
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Today I re-installed the tranny oil lines, with new ones of course. Part of the 10th year refresh, because it has rubber hose parts.
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The final mounting location of tranny oil lines is piggy back to compressor 2 front bolts.
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I almost had brain fart moment again, almost forgot to re-install engine mounts heat shield....dugghhh.
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Tomorrrow I can proceed with LEFT bank turbocharger install.
Consider reducing the tightening torque on any fastener which has anti-seize applied. Torque specs are "dry". Adding anything to the threads means they are no longer dry and the torque should be reduced to avoid exceeding the designed fastener tension and joint interface pressure.
Consider reducing the tightening torque on any fastener which has anti-seize applied. Torque specs are "dry". Adding anything to the threads means they are no longer dry and the torque should be reduced to avoid exceeding the designed fastener tension and joint interface pressure.
Another of my brain fart moment...thanks Chassis.
I will reduce by 25% the torque.
The calculation is complex but the simplified version is 25 to 30% reduction
I took many photos but I did not summarized special sequence. 1+ months waiting for parts, me memory gone.
The turbocharger coolant + oil lines and heat shields is tricky as they interlock each other .........
Brain fart part 1.............
RIGHT bank Turbo installed and next would be heat shields..........
Hmmm, this does not look like turbo's heats shield which are 3 separate pieces. What is this 4th mystery heat shield for ?
Look for archive then........
Oh crap !!!! That is heat shield for knock sensor !!!!
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Damn........ must install this heat-shield from under the car.... freaking nightmare tight space....
DONE
Now install coolant INPUT line for turbo.
NO CAN'T DO ............ specific to RIGHT bank turbo, the coolant port for turbo is BEHIND this very same knock sensor heat shield....duggghhh !!!
#1 is the coolant pipe , #2 is the heat shield. There is a U cut at the heat shield for this pipe bending radius.
Remove again the heat shield
And install the coolant pipe
Again install the heat shield.......damn !!!!
I got a 100% virgin brand new super fitting glove from UVEX, look at the abrassion this confine space created. If no glove and no sleeve, I would be bleeding all over for sure.
The dark stain below are hard rubbing I had to endure. This glove blueish fabric is slippery like my sleeve. Good for cuts prevention.
Oldie Uvex dark grey-black sleeve, I love this protection.
I wanted to get the newer sleeve ( green one ) but no stock ...damn. My oldie grey-black sleeve already got new elastic fabric at the end, the original elastic material already no more tight and it will roll
up and my hand will be un-protected when used in today's kind of super tight work.
All good for Right bank turbo.
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This is how much smaller is the Right side turbo gasket and clamp, vs the left side which is bigger
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The new turbo oil return hose has different P/N, but shape wise the same.
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Oil injection into turbo, same P/N
I pre-installed the oil return line first on the turbo. Otherwise it is a pain to aim the bolt into the engine side bore.
This time I did not forget the engine mount shield and the peg-board ( steel bar ) for the 4 exhaust manifold nuts.
I set the pace of disassembly based on the pace of parts availability. In other words I don’t disassemble farther than I have parts in hand to replace. If I don’t know what parts I need to replace I stop disassembly when I arrive at the first prt requiring replacement. It helps avoid forgetting parts or how parts go together.
MB is particularly bad at exposed sharp metal edges underhood. I am wrapping up a BMW project now and few/no exposed metal edges. Similar on my Cayenne.
I set the pace of disassembly based on the pace of parts availability. In other words I don’t disassemble farther than I have parts in hand to replace. If I don’t know what parts I need to replace I stop disassembly when I arrive at the first prt requiring replacement. It helps avoid forgetting parts or how parts go together.
MB is particularly bad at exposed sharp metal edges underhood. I am wrapping up a BMW project now and few/no exposed metal edges. Similar on my Cayenne.
......and a DIY dude with lots of brain farts moment
Very much appreciated humility, our world (and this forum) could use much more of it! I will make 5x more D’oh mistakes getting mine back together, of that I’m certain. My turbo removals were planned, yet I cannot fathom how you did any of that with engine still in car!
So far no blood loss, though I burned my thumb heating up a frozen pizza mid-engine drop! 🤣
Re-install HP fuel pump and pipes to fuel rail. Only 1 connection I can't torqued it to 15Nm spec, but I can do the 90 degrees.
No space to spin/turn the tool.
The only tool possible to use, crow foot type, size 19. The torque wrench is 5 to 25Nm class.
15Nm is too light for my other torque tool which has open end wrench head.
Bank 2, pipe is the one I had to guesstimate the 15Nm.
Sound deadener foam installed, both.
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Steel protection dome and plastic jacket over it installed.
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PCV system hose set output to Bank 1 LEFT turbo and intake manifold, installed first
Mechanical coolant circulation pump must be installed first before thermostat.
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Install vacuum pump
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Intake manifold installed, as I need the wire tray and ECM to be back at its original place, otherwise I can not install this steel bracket :
This steel bracket is a nightmare to install, working space for the E8 and E10 Torx is killing my hand.
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Above is E10, torx socket can not be used there, no space.
You also can not use racheting torx wrench or non racheting one, need torx wrench which can swivel the head otherwise your tool will hit the sound shield of the HP pump, and I don't have such tool, like below :
However, specific to E10 torx, you can use size metric 8mm wrench and E12 you can use size metric 10mm wrench with flex head.
This one below is E8 torx, no metric common wrench can be used on it. It has to be E8 Torx.
Racheting Torx wrench too fat to use here...dugggh.
You can't use slim wrench type torx, the angle to tighten the torx not available. Must use socket and must be 1/4" drive, 3/8" is too big.
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With some drama, its done. I dropped the E8 socket and 1 of E10 Torx bolt between engine and tranny, tried looking for it 30+ minutes, dang !!!
They are so small, they go stuck at a wire conduit.
The fake firewall battle scar, these are the regions my gloves backside has to rub hard against.
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I ended up ordering from Amazon USA this deep socket Torx set and with 1/4" drive.
This is long enough for my fingers to hold them in place, for difficult position but not too long and I can get away without using the shortest extension.
Locally I can get E8 deep socket, but the drive is 3/8". 3/8" is too big, the racheting wrench is too big.
Dont buy 3/8" drive external Torx for use on MB when up to E12 size, buy 1/4" if you can.
I have E12 with 1/4 drive , but not deep socket.
All external torx of MB within engine bay and up to E12 size, their torque target are not high, so you can use 1/4" and often you must use 1/4" torque wrench.
E10 is most common size on my engine.
With the least little bit of bad luck, you can spend more time looking for a dropped tool, or dropped hardware, than you do disassembling and reassembling, and maybe even repairing.
Sometimes it helps to prepare dangerous areas with barriers over crevices, and openings.
Murphy’s law always applies that tools and hardware can easily find openings that there is no possible way they can fall down.
Re-install HP fuel pump and pipes to fuel rail. Only 1 connection I can't torqued it to 15Nm spec, but I can do the 90 degrees.
No space to spin/turn the tool.
Quote:
Originally Posted by S-Prihadi
The only tool possible to use, crow foot type, size 19. The torque wrench is 5 to 25Nm class.
15Nm is too light for my other torque tool which has open end wrench head.
Bank 2, pipe is the one I had to guesstimate the 15Nm.
If it is not too late, you can use a crow's foot with a torque wrench to create the space you need.
Adjust (reduce) the torque in proportion to the added length of the crow's foot. I did something similar with a torque adapter when replacing a front upper control arm on my Cayenne.
If it is not too late, you can use a crow's foot with a torque wrench to create the space you need.
Adjust (reduce) the torque in proportion to the added length of the crow's foot. I did something similar with a torque adapter when replacing a front upper control arm on my Cayenne.
I did use the crow foot for the union nut of the fuel pipe size 19.
I compensate the torque when I use it in extended length mode of torque wrench, some I can use 90 degrees, so no need to compensate .
MB parts are getting weird as I bought more from them.
They seems to change some details.
This is a vacuum line for turbo wastegate vacuum actuator. Item #10.
Original to the car vs 2024 purchase, which I just realized today it has very minor difference.
Even the dual clip on new item #20, which P/N never changed, the dual clip is now big and big, no more big and small.... which is wrong. It should be big and small.
Old #10 has the special "parking spot" spot for the smaller clip. The new #10 has none.
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The item #250 has difference too. The chaffing protection foam is different, longer and I do not need it to be longer as it wont fit into the clip.
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I replaced #250 and 300 because they are plastic. Plastic must be replaced.
The L shaped rubber hose ends will break within 15 years, based on my friend's W2\04 C200 of 2010.
You then smell raw fuel in engine bay. And could have bad idling as you are sucking air and not fuel vapor...when and if the Engine computer decided to open the purge valve,
which is controlled by # 260. In 2022 I replaced the #260 solenoid. It was OK but higher operational noise, I don't like it.
See the L shape rubber hose end. That is what will break first.
See, foam is too long , as such I need to flip back the foam.
The foam is difficult to slide , too new I think.
Install back all connectors for injectors, cop, sensors and fuel hose. Also the heater hose output of engine and my coolant pressure sensor.
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I want to make Cali happy , so I silicone-ded my EPS wires into connector boy.
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And I want to make myself happy too, I made splash shield for my EPS.
If coolant or oil leak from the engine, it will no more wet my EPS connector.
If somehow water jet spray from wheel during heavy rain spray the connector, at least it won't be direct.
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UGLY but will be worthwhile.
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Install alternator and re-do extra ground wire nicely.
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My engine oil solenoid by-pass system. I made a connector now, because I had to cut the wire when ECM wire assy is to be lifted up.
Crimped and soldered. Deutsch connector used.
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Re-installed my extra coolant temperature probe/thermocouple.
It is reading Bank 1 RIGHT side turbo coolant output ( hot ).
The aluminum foil is to trap the heat for the thermocouple, so that cooling fan won't cool it.
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Afetrcooler pump, re-installled
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My beloved....Oil pressure sensor and K-thermocouple to read sensor's adapter skin temperature ( oil temp ) re-installed.
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AC Compressor need some love.....
I will replace the comp oil. See how dark is the oil when comp run so hot in the tropics.
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I do not have copper washer this size, its on order.
Spot on with the L-shaped rubber end…mine already tore in half a while ago (connection to vapor canister). I used some flex tubing and clamps at the time, doing a proper fix now (I hope, tubing ordered)…
Why don’t you want the fan to cool the thermocouple? Is that a design element originally built in by the factory?
I need to read as accurate as possible the pipe skin temperature which indirectly represent the coolant temperature exiting the turbocharger.
In a best install scenario, the temperature probe is to be inside the coolant flow, the wet coolant.
Like how exhaust gas temperature EGT is read, drill a hole on the exhaust or closest to turbocharger hot gas output and read the hot air stream....like how 02 sensor is installed.
But I can't do that, so external skin temperature of the said pipe carrying the hot coolant is the best I can do.
The radiator hot air blowing into engine bay, is not as hot as the coolant temperature, so this not-so-hot air can cool down my thermocouple a bit and I don't want that to happen.
I learnt of this the hardway when I placed similar K thermocouple on my air cooled dive compressor.
First I installed the thermocouple as-is, no jacket.
The thermoouple is a very thin wire, thus I machined a brass half-moon shaped to press it tight to the nut/union of the hot air pipe, while I use clamp to secure them.
Above is 2010 archive.
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Later I learnt that the themocouple by being naked to the forced cooling blower air flow, it gets cooler than the pipe it is supposed to read.
The additional brass actually acts like cooling fin for the thermocouple.
The forced cooling air fan is blowing cool ambient air, unlike in engine bay which the fan is blowing-in spent hot air.
So I jacket-ded the thermocouple with alu foil and HVAC insulation foam.
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See right side unit , T1, STAGE 3 reading at 140.8C.
If no jacket, that sensor will read only 135C, thus 5C lost artificially due to the cooling blower.
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This is how cool or hot engine bay can get, depending on car velocity or cooling wind force at speed, which is not all the time powered by our radiator fan but by car motion.
Our radiator fan will be powered down or basically turned off when we move at 80KM/H, because our electric fan fastest speed is only equal to no better than 60KM/H wind speed.
All log at 5hz or 5 data points per second.
Engine stop and then re-started. Re-fueling stop, maximum 3 minutes.
See how a bit hotter is the turbo's coolant is, after engine shut down, compared to engine block coolant , 2C hotter.
When engine started, the same coolant get circulated and turbo's coolant came down to the same as engine block coolant temp or eventually cooler when turbo has no load.
Engine block coolant temperature sensor (OE set up ) location, is a spent reading, meaning this coolant has cooled down the engine block and on the way back to the coolant pump ,
but with a bit a detour to hvac heater core. So the coolant has done its duty.
My thermocouple on the turbo coolant return pipe, while also a spent reading, but when only at idling , it is a cooler coolant region than OE engine block coolant sensor.
This is because turbo's coolant source is a coolant which has not yet get heated up much by engine block pistons water jacket, which is how it should be.
Ah, okay. Your EGT example explains it to my experience level of understanding.
An EGT is not the most accurate measurement of TOT(turbine outlet temperature), but it is, from a design perspective the safest.
An ITT(inter turbine temperature), is more accurate, being closer to the exhaust gas, but half as safe as the EGT, being between 2 turbines.
The TOT, is the most accurate, but the least safe, being in front of 2 turbine wheels, waiting to disintegrate them both if it ever partially, or completely broke loose.
Too much distractions the past few days. I am making very slow progress ( not that it matters ).
Another minor sequence error I made.
Transmission oil lines attachment towards the compressor ( 2 C shaped clips and 3 of dual pipe attachment) , do not attach it yet to the engine block, untill the AC compressor is installed, specific to W212 with M276.820 3.0 Turbo.
Let the tranny lines be loose so you can push it away, otherwise you can not tighten the 3rd ( rear ) bolt of the compressor, as the twin tranny oil lines will block your tool.
I already reminded myself during removal with the red lines on the photo of that day, but I forgot about it ....LOL
This is what I meant by dual lines attachment, I do not know the official name. There are 3 of these.
2 of this C clips, the most azz-hole location is the 2nd one furthest from tranny.
You cant access the torx bolt unless the lower pipe get pushed side way first and the space is so tight, fingers can't spin the torx bolt for re-installation of the first 2 threads.
Removal is easier.
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Anyway, two out of 3 hoses replaced and compressor re-installed.
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Nitrogen injected for the time being.
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Replaced the r134a pressure sensor. 11 years of service is good enough. It still run fine but I best replace new one as I do not want to tear down my car front parts and RRR the HVAC again just for this.
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New oil at 70cc
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40cc and 30cc injected = 70cc
It wll be a few more days before I will install the condenser and then renew the dessicant drier.
Aftercooler coolant side installed, but air side not yet.
Tranny oil cooler lines not installed to oil cooler yet.
I need to install AC condenser and do pressure test first, before I will install tranny oil lines, as 3 heat exchangers share 1 mounting frame :
- AC condenser
- Tranny oil cooler
- Aftercooler heat exchanger.
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This time installing the radiator and 3 heat exchangers, I do them as married group.
When I removed them, I did the radiator first and the trio heat exchangers.
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Top locking clip to marry them
Bottom slide lock to marry them
This time I can not install these 4 heat exchangers without assistance from my man. Too bulky a shape and so tight a sliding area ( sliding up ).
This radiator assy feet locking base have to be removed, if 4 heat exhangers slide in ( from bottom ) as married set. Too fat the 4 heat exchangers.
I was overly optimistic I would not hurt the new radiator micro fins, damn when lifting up the sides are rubbing the car frame, the only hand grip is at the radiator and I
bent them fins. This is already with my man pushing the radiator up, me do the maneuver and also lifting up.
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I finally covered up the radiator small exposed area
Nitrogen pressure test, 147 PSI. Too bad my regulator is max 150psi and not a 300 psi version. I would want to do test to 250PSI, which is as high as my condenser would be if super hot day.
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9th minute
40th minute
As the nitrogen is cooling down ( from heat of initial compression zero to 147PSI ), pressure will drop so very little and slowly.
I will test this till tomorrow, or at least 12+ hours.
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Engine Radiator pressure test. This will be 12+ hours too, till tomorrow.
At midnight or 6 hours into the pressure test, pressure dropped to 12.5 PSI.
The test tool itself has 3 possible micro leak location.
01 - The o-ring at the cap. I already replaced it with a tiny bit fatter one, but I notice if test is 4+ hours, pressure will drop.
02 - The quick coupler internal o-ring
03 - The vent valve internal o-ring.
I pumped to 15psi again and by 09:17AM or 9 hours later, back to 12.5 PSI, see below :
Today I filled up the radiator coolant ( not using vacuuming process ), and I will pump again, if a true 2.5psi drop/leak from cooling system, there should be coolant on the floor.
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Connect tranny oil cooler lines. To heat exchanger/oil cooler.
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The clip holes , 3 of them, are too small for my eyes.
Filled up tranny oil at 5 liters, but could not as it was already choked full at the pan by 3.5 liter.
The tranny is really empty of oil.
What a mess I made on the floor.
Below is not oil pump , it is for insect spray hahahaha. Low cost, use it once per 2 or 3 years only.
The internal suction hose rotted away exposed to tranny oil. This unit is 3+ years old.
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The mess I made, this is when I tried to plug off the oil pan.
At least 500cc lost to the floor.....LOL
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HVAC system all good. 12+ hours later or 09:16AM next day, pressure drop within temperature drop window.
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Time to replace the dessicant drier. Nitrogen injection flowing non stop at mild flow................
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The plastic frame for bumper holder is blocking my work when inserting the new dessicant bag
Below is and angled photo,
So I removed it, again...... wasted 1 minute of my dessicant bag time in open air....duggg !!
Nitrogen is constantly pumped into the hvac system and the dessicant bag cavity.
New dessicant bag inserted.
New plug with dual pinky o-ring is part of the kit.
New circlip is part of the kit
New black plug is part of the kit.
Below are the old parts
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Testing vacuum pump, the oil albeit clean, it was not "dry" because it was already used on 2 cars.
I can't get below 120 micron at vacuum pump head port's.. This pump can do 15 microns, if not 9 to 10 microns with brand new "dry" oil , at vacuum pump port.
So vacuum pump get new oil before use.
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By 5:56 PM or 2 hours into the vacuuming process........
Honest end to end, is 436 microns
By 7:31PM , 264 microns.
Target is to 100 microns and with 2 hours decay at no more than 300 microns.
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
............ specific to RIGHT bank turbo, the coolant port for turbo is BEHIND this very same knock sensor heat shield....duggghhh !!!
