Tapping power in trunk for amp if you don't have a trunk mounted battery
I initially was planning to run a 6 gauge cable from the front to the back, but routing around the exhaust was proving difficult.
SO I started looking at the trunk fuse panels, and realized I could just plug into the unfused bar for a circuit that wasn't an installed option on my car I simply plugged a male spade terminal crimp connector into the slot for the unused fuse. I decided to use a large circuit breaker as an attachment point under the truck because I had it in my shop, this was probably unnecessary but I was designing in my head as I was installing so bear with me. I found a nice unused ground point that even had the nut already installed and bright metal contact point, nice!
My amp and Lc2i line converter were already installed on the box from my previous car, so I used quick splice connectors to pull signal from the rear deck speakers and ran that to the Lc2i.
Power bar is running down on side of all the fuse slots, even the unused ones.
made sense at the time...
I was very happy to find that unused factory ground point on the passenger side of the trunk! I assume this would be the battery ground point in versions with the rear battery.
Finally, some bass.
Last edited by bernard farquar; Aug 25, 2025 at 12:42 PM. Reason: trying to fix broken images




You may want to keep R-SAM delicate circuitry out of feeding your Amp high-current surges...
Tap the cable directly feeding SAM in the back of it.
You already have adequate protection from your nearby 120A fuse and a nice short GND cable.
Needless to say you'd be better off with a dedicated homerun cable to the power source (ALT or Prefuse or BATT) and extra engine-chassis GND straps.
You may want to keep R-SAM delicate circuitry out of feeding your Amp high-current surges...
Tap the cable directly feeding SAM in the back of it.
You already have adequate protection from your nearby 120A fuse and a nice short GND cable.
Needless to say you'd be better off with a dedicated homerun cable to the power source (ALT or Prefuse or BATT) and extra engine-chassis GND straps.





The issue are the power glitches may not help SAM remain stable.
Rear SAM is in charge of the ALT 12.6V regulation during float operation.
> We're here to help...:
Pay attention to your chassis voltage dropping.
-- Set your IC-Display to show battery sensor while driving.
-- Watch carefully when voltage transition from 14, 13 then finally to 12.6v.... 12.3 ???
Do you see any 12.3V or lower???
That is caused by Rear-SAM networking.
Furthermore how about routing your cable inside under carpet.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Aug 25, 2025 at 04:34 PM.




Fuse/breaker must be as close as possible to the power source, yours is at least 2+ feet away. Another reckless point #2.
I suggest you use a fuse tab, something like below :
https://www.blackboxmycar.com/pages/...uCLyQnp-PZGS4y
Limit it to no more than 25 amps.
Fuse 40 is Circuit 30g.
===========
Rear SAM gets its circuit 30g power from F32 prefuse box at 160 amps.
Don't let your car have short circuit and caught on fire , please.
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You want a fuse that will protect the wire assuming your amp has a fuse. If your amp has a 30 amp fuse, put a 30 amp fuse on the wire. Something smaller than the wire.
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Fuse/breaker must be as close as possible to the power source, yours is at least 2+ feet away. Another reckless point #2.
I suggest you use a fuse tab, something like below :
https://www.blackboxmycar.com/pages/...uCLyQnp-PZGS4y
Limit it to no more than 25 amps.
Fuse 40 is Circuit 30g.
===========
Rear SAM gets its circuit 30g power from F32 prefuse box at 160 amps.
Don't let your car have short circuit and caught on fire , please.
Last edited by bernard farquar; Aug 28, 2025 at 06:28 PM.




