M278 - Oil Pump Solenoid Question Cold Climates
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From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
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From: Fleriduh
W212 E63S Wagon - GSL580 - E63 - E350 - C300
Initial Thoughts with solenoid unplugged:
Idle: Much smoother, when in park with engine running. When stopped at a light, there is still a slight "shake" - however it seems to have been reduced by about 75%. It is still there, but considerably less noticeable than before.
Transmission: No noticeable difference in upshifts/downshifts or general performance of the transmission.
Throttle response: Massive change, in my opinion. There is still obviously some delay present, but the car is much more responsive and this is a significant improvement. Driving around the 1500rpm-3000rpm now is a lot more enjoyable thanks to the extra responsiveness.
Fuel economy: I know fuel economy numbers should not change too much either way, but I am getting more or less the same numbers as before. Pic attached on a brief highway drive, pretty good for a 4.7L V8 TT!
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2014 E63S; AMS 100 octane ECU dyno tune; EDOK TCU tune; BB intakes; sprintbooster
OP:
from the original solenoid thread (as I mentioned above) - there is discussion of cold starts in cold climates when UNplugged, video from the great Tasos (watch video and then read post #600 and on, and if you don't know who Tasos is, read up)
https://mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/...ml#post8899014
the thought that unplugged in cold climates may be detrimental - of course various people
had different opinions (shocker)
from the original solenoid thread (as I mentioned above) - there is discussion of cold starts in cold climates when UNplugged, video from the great Tasos (watch video and then read post #600 and on, and if you don't know who Tasos is, read up)
https://mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/...ml#post8899014
the thought that unplugged in cold climates may be detrimental - of course various people
had different opinions (shocker)
Last edited by PeterUbers; Oct 13, 2025 at 12:38 PM.
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From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
WINTER SETUP OPINIONS
Frigid "Winter cold start" topic...
To forge your own opinion you can compare the two scenarios of stock MOD-0 vs. MOD-1.
Both setups start with "normal" pressure to flush air out of oiling galeries then drop to low idle with similar low pressures limited by Rpm.
Canadians intelligence dictates not to use Summer supplies in sub-zero Winter. Use Winter oil viscosity and dump oil in Spring time.
Reading the main thread will get you into a discussion about circulating oil vs. not circulating oil....
Experimental field reports by individuals confirm that unplugged solenoid warms up oil faster and higher by cooling engine pistons at lower Rpm's.
Conversely it is reasonable to believe stock setup keepspistons less spray cooled oil cooler/colder as it gets warmed up by coolant exchanger.
We can' honestly talk about Winter and the oil pump solenoid without CONSIDERING THE OIL ITSELF. Compare flow at -45°C of Synth vs. PAO....
may well show you best frigid temp flow.
Should your personal opinion land on using MOD-1 5W-40 PAO "MB-Approved" (or stock 0W-40) you'd be in tune with shared realities.
A synthetic oil for Frigid Winter and a premium oil for Hot Summer are reasonable solutions. Or both PAO are the best "all-season" choice.
Is it reasonable to believe that warming up oil faster may help evaporate dilution contaminants (fuel/water) faster ??
(Stock oiling is good).
To forge your own opinion you can compare the two scenarios of stock MOD-0 vs. MOD-1.
Both setups start with "normal" pressure to flush air out of oiling galeries then drop to low idle with similar low pressures limited by Rpm.
Canadians intelligence dictates not to use Summer supplies in sub-zero Winter. Use Winter oil viscosity and dump oil in Spring time.
Reading the main thread will get you into a discussion about circulating oil vs. not circulating oil....
Experimental field reports by individuals confirm that unplugged solenoid warms up oil faster and higher by cooling engine pistons at lower Rpm's.
Conversely it is reasonable to believe stock setup keeps
We can' honestly talk about Winter and the oil pump solenoid without CONSIDERING THE OIL ITSELF. Compare flow at -45°C of Synth vs. PAO....
may well show you best frigid temp flow.
Should your personal opinion land on using MOD-1 5W-40 PAO "MB-Approved" (or stock 0W-40) you'd be in tune with shared realities.
A synthetic oil for Frigid Winter and a premium oil for Hot Summer are reasonable solutions. Or both PAO are the best "all-season" choice.
Is it reasonable to believe that warming up oil faster may help evaporate dilution contaminants (fuel/water) faster ??
(Stock oiling is good).
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Oct 13, 2025 at 05:59 PM.
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E500
I have e500 and ml500. E500 oil solenoid is unplugged and on ml500 it is not. E500 throttle response is much better due to unplugged solenoid. I have not done oil
analysis. So can’t tell is it reducing the engine wear. There is no evidence that it actually helps to reduce engine wear.
Mobil 1 0w40 mb 229.5 is better than mobil 1 5w40 mb229.3 oil because 5w40 is not suitable for di engines due to lspi because of higher calcium content.
analysis. So can’t tell is it reducing the engine wear. There is no evidence that it actually helps to reduce engine wear.
Mobil 1 0w40 mb 229.5 is better than mobil 1 5w40 mb229.3 oil because 5w40 is not suitable for di engines due to lspi because of higher calcium content.
Last edited by Burn7; Oct 26, 2025 at 11:31 AM.
